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QTDDTOT: Questions that don't deserve their own thread

Fudster

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Even if the cargo area power port allows the reverse flow of energy, a lot of juice will be lost from the combined resistance of that longer circuit. Best off attaching the solar panel directly to the battery. If you still have the factory main and aux setup, attach the negative lead to the negative post on the main battery and the positive lead to the #1 accessory post (most forward) under the fuse box cover.
Thanks Mike:

The direct connection to the batteries and its likelihood to result in less loss of ampacity, particular given shorter and thicker cable runs had me contemplating installing the solar panel on the hood.

Some quick background: I have both batteries and run ESS. I'm also an infrequent driver.

Between the price of gas, Amazon, WFH, global warming, etc. I tend to not need to take my Sahara out more than once weekly and have found that trickle charging, which I currently do from shore power, gets ESS working as soon as all the other factors (e.g. engine warmth) for it engaging are met.

(Saving small amounts of money on gasoline via ESS only to spend it on shore power electric or a solar panel has not escaped this simple man.)

I was contemplating "cutting the tether" to shore power for trickle charging, and replacing it with a solar panel, freeing up where I park, such that if it outside. it would still trickle charge batteries.

I love Cascadia 4 x 4 offerings https://www.cascadia4x4.com/collections/vss-system-hood-mounted-solar but pricey and not in love with hood placement. I already have a roof rack.

Lensun Solar https://www.lensunsolar.com/?Pmax=f...MIsebXhoSu-wIVD4vICh1BmAWSEAAYASAAEgKeLPD_BwE offers similar setups and purchase of components, like solar controller, separately.

You'll be amazed how much cheaper a flexible solar panel is, small enough to fit between windshield washer jets, when not expressly dedicated to Wrangler trickle charging.;)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7FK2M3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Let you know what I do and find....
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Beachcomber72

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I'm confused as to your reply. I am so because, as you say, "a dedicated separate charging source for the battery like a solar setup is your best bet," when that is precisely what I propose.
Meaning …don’t try to charge with the rear plug. Just put a solar charger directly to the battery.
 

Heimkehr

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Q: If an energized 12V power source (not a power demanding appliance) is plugged into the 12V accessory plug in the cargo area, and that plug was configured--as it comes from the factory--to always be energized/connected to the batteries, even when the engine is off, could that 12V accessory plug in the cargo area be used to charge the vehicle's batteries?
Yes, it could, but as mentioned and as you plainly understand, voltage drop might compromise the effectiveness of the trickle charging config that you've in mind here.

What you're proposing is exactly what I do to maintain the Ural's battery: I've connected a tender, via a Powerlet adapter, to the unswitched 12V socket in the sidecar. Current safely flows in both directions, meaning I can either power a heated vest from that receptacle, or use it to keep the battery topped up.

The issue here is one of scale. I'd suggest that a direct charging connection to the Jeep's battery will concurrently provide a more efficient and safer flow of current.
 

Fudster

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Gorilla Glass:

Quite a few posts on the forum find owners with no greater satistfaction with this windshield than stock.

I know there is science behind it. Corning makes good products. But it seems that this upgrade may not be worth the $.

Is it no better than the stock glass. Is it.......worse?

Forums, no offense to them, tend to attract outliers. Lovers and complainers of the brand flock in similar numbers where the majority of mostly happy owners contribute posts less frequently.

So maybe, on the whole, Gorilla Glass is a better product and were just not hearing from its owners with unchipped/unbroken windshields(????)

TIA
 

Ratbert

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Gorilla Glass:

Quite a few posts on the forum find owners with no greater satistfaction with this windshield than stock.

I know there is science behind it. Corning makes good products. But it seems that this upgrade may not be worth the $.

Is it no better than the stock glass. Is it.......worse?

Forums, no offense to them, tend to attract outliers. Lovers and complainers of the brand flock in similar numbers where the majority of mostly happy owners contribute posts less frequently.

So maybe, on the whole, Gorilla Glass is a better product and were just not hearing from its owners with unchipped/unbroken windshields(????)

TIA
Agreed. It's unlikely that people with a cracked standard windshield will complain anywhere near as much as those that paid extra for the GG option.

I got another ding in my wife's Mercedes AMG GLC43 (standard glass) while driving to the airport Friday. The car in front of us was about four seconds away. That's obviously not tailgating. It seems to be more likely that the rock came from one of the vehicles in an adjacent lane.
 

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Heimkehr

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I got another ding in my wife's Mercedes AMG GLC43 (standard glass) while driving to the airport Friday. The car in front of us was about four seconds away. That's obviously not tailgating.

It seems to be more likely that the rock came from one of the vehicles in an adjacent lane.
Experience, in the form of damaged windscreens, has taught me to give a wide berth to tri-axle dumps, and anything being pulled by a ratty day cab tractor.

I understand the italicized "another". Boy, do I. 😐
 

Ratbert

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Experience, in the form of damaged windscreens, has taught me to give a wide berth to tri-axle dumps, and anything being pulled by a ratty day cab tractor.

I understand the italicized "another". Boy, do I. 😐
Unfortunately there are a handful of people here that love to blame the victim. The "you're obviously driving too fast and tailgating" crowd. I'm guessing that those people don't have 75mph speed limits on roads sprinkled with gravel. Or maybe their Wranglers are fair weather princesses.
 

Fudster

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Agreed. It's unlikely that people with a cracked standard windshield will complain anywhere near as much as those that paid extra for the GG option.

I got another ding in my wife's Mercedes AMG GLC43 (standard glass) while driving to the airport Friday. The car in front of us was about four seconds away. That's obviously not tailgating. It seems to be more likely that the rock came from one of the vehicles in an adjacent lane.
I appreciate your reply John, not your unfortunate damage to the Benz....
 

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Thanks Mike:

The direct connection to the batteries and its likelihood to result in less loss of ampacity, particular given shorter and thicker cable runs had me contemplating installing the solar panel on the hood.

Some quick background: I have both batteries and run ESS. I'm also an infrequent driver.

Between the price of gas, Amazon, WFH, global warming, etc. I tend to not need to take my Sahara out more than once weekly and have found that trickle charging, which I currently do from shore power, gets ESS working as soon as all the other factors (e.g. engine warmth) for it engaging are met.

(Saving small amounts of money on gasoline via ESS only to spend it on shore power electric or a solar panel has not escaped this simple man.)

I was contemplating "cutting the tether" to shore power for trickle charging, and replacing it with a solar panel, freeing up where I park, such that if it outside. it would still trickle charge batteries.

I love Cascadia 4 x 4 offerings https://www.cascadia4x4.com/collections/vss-system-hood-mounted-solar but pricey and not in love with hood placement. I already have a roof rack.

Lensun Solar https://www.lensunsolar.com/?Pmax=f...MIsebXhoSu-wIVD4vICh1BmAWSEAAYASAAEgKeLPD_BwE offers similar setups and purchase of components, like solar controller, separately.

You'll be amazed how much cheaper a flexible solar panel is, small enough to fit between windshield washer jets, when not expressly dedicated to Wrangler trickle charging.;)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7FK2M3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Let you know what I do and find....
What is the payback period of the solar set up vs the power consumed trucker charging?
 

LKG

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2 dumb questions TDDTOT..

1) With the built-in navigation programmed to a destination, is there any way for the system to display a broader overview of the route it's taking (ie, will be eventually hitting Route 4 then Route US-5)? And is there a way to show ETA for arrival at destination (ie, 3HR 5MIN til home)?

The uConnect is such a clusterflup of icons everywhere and I couldn't find any obvious way to do something that's common to all GPS/navigation systems. Only shows '5-miles to next turn', but you gotta guess what the next road after that might be, and no clue if it's a 20 minute trip or a 5 hour trip. Fun if you like surprises, I guess.

2) Noxious fumes on a newly built JL.. normally bad enough to make you dizzy, give you a headache and sore throat/lungs? And how long does this last?

Can't smell anything from outside, but in the cabin it's quite strong at times. I'm guessing it's either off-gasing of internal plastics or maybe upholstery glues, but never experienced anything this overbearing on a new vehicle before.
Figured I would help the clutter of these forums with this thread. If you feel like you have a question or discussion that doesn't exactly fit the criteria of an entire thread, feel free to post it here. Cheers.

Jeep-Wrangler-Red-Rock-Concpet-off-road-wheels-and-tires-2.jpg
My turn. Thoughts on seat covers actually causing more damage? I'm considering seat covers for my JLUR cloth seats but I've heard some users say they cause more wear than they prevent.
 

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Fudster

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What is the payback period of the solar set up vs the power consumed trucker charging?
Hi David:

I don't know if trucker charging is trickle charging or alternator charging (or something else.)

It's just as well because a comparison against both is only fair.

I expect to spend about $200 on my solar panel, controller and vinyl/mounting tape to potentially install in on the vehicle's hood. At 30 amps for the solar panel I expect trickle charging only, not to be able to run off road appliances off the batteries. FWIW this is cheaper than buying the kit from Cascadia 4 x 4 or Lensun Solar. Still more, the solar panel I bought to do this can alternatively be attached to my roof rack as it has grommets--something I can't easily do with either vendor's kits.

My desire to move to this setup and away from trickle charging was to know that wherever I park outside with some access to sky above I can trickle charge the dual batteries and not be married to accessing 120V A/C.

I have no expectations for financial payback although the question is certainly valid as sure as it is beyond my calculations. What I can speak to are the factors: which would include purchasing the A/C trickle charger, the cost of the cost of the electric to run it. It is not an energy hungry appliance.

If the question is how much money am I saving keeping ESS ready and saving gasoline versus the cost to trickle charge the batteries, solar or electric, I guess the previous costs plus the prevailing cost of gasoline would factor into the mix.

Keeping ESS running is about "doing my part" as a greener citizen. Less mileage, more errands per trip, and a promise to move to cleaner vehicles as also part of the 5 year plan. An individual's gasoline savings using ESS, even in more congested areas, is minimal.
 

Heimkehr

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I've the transfer case fluid exchange on my To Do list, with a few quarts of OEM ATF+4 at the ready.

I do like to replace whatever supplies I use, so that I'm always capable of one maintenance sesh using garage stock. With that in mind, I've been pricing replacement ATF+4, in the event that the dealer is out of stock.

By way of example, Fram sells an ATF+4 fluid, whereas Valvoline offers a "transfer case fluid" with specific ATF+4 compatibility (among others) noted on the rear label.

Who has used the Valvoline product, or anything like it, in the transfer case and is there an express advantage to doing so vs. ATF+4 fluid?

IMG_20221114_193443.jpg

IMG_20221114_193506.jpg
 

homerun

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I've the transfer case fluid exchange on my To Do list, with a few quarts of OEM ATF+4 at the ready.

I do like to replace whatever supplies I use, so that I'm always capable of one maintenance sesh using garage stock. With that in mind, I've been pricing replacement ATF+4, in the event that the dealer is out of stock.

By way of example, Fram sells an ATF+4 fluid, whereas Valvoline offers a "transfer case fluid" with specific ATF+4 compatibility (among others) noted on the rear label.

Who has used the Valvoline product, or anything like it, in the transfer case and is there an express advantage to doing so vs. ATF+4 fluid?

IMG_20221114_193443.jpg

IMG_20221114_193506.jpg
I don’t have any studies or much to back it up, but like everyone I have an opinion. I use Vavoline or Mobile One for engine oil. I like Redline or Lucas for tcase and tranny (manual tranny). I generally avoid Fram.

just my 2 cents.
 

Heimkehr

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I use Vavoline or Mobile One for engine oil. I like Redline or Lucas for tcase and tranny (manual tranny). I generally avoid Fram.
Thanks. I actually have some Redline Heavy Shockproof on the shelf right now, but that's reserved for the Ural's gearbox. I do prefer to stick with what's recommended in the Jeep's Owner's Manual, at least for the time being.

I too tend to avoid Fram, as a brand. It was just used as an example here.
 

Fudster

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My trickle charger says my dual AGM batteries (both replaced swapped 1/2022) are charged but my 3.6L is in battery protection mode with Voltages in the 13.X range.

I'm thinking that my (no so) Intelligent Battery Sensor (IBS) might not be the worse for a reset--which I get involves disconnecting both batteries from the vehicle for a brief moment.

When done, and its time to reconnect is there anything I need to do? And might unmarrying a JL Tazer Mini be advised first?

TIA
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