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QTDDTOT: Questions that don't deserve their own thread

Dyolfknip74

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I really don’t think you can over fill. The diff should have a breather hose if temps cause the liquid to expand. Bottom line is you want all those gears completely submerged to reduce wear.
You most definitely do not want the gears completely submerged. You'll be cleaning up gear oil everytime you stop. Ring and pinion uses "Splash Lubrication" which is exactly how it sounds. The movement of the R and P keep everything lubricated.
 

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Here's a dumb, but possibly interesting question that just popped into my head.

With proximity locks, once you're in the vehicle I believe all jeeps auto-lock the doors over 5MPH (I think), so once you're at a stop light or a parking spot with the fob still in your pocket, is there anything stopping someone (like a robber or carjacker) from just opening your door from the outside? Or does the system know not to allow the proximity unlock until the door is either opened or unlocked from the inside first?
 

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Here's a dumb, but possibly interesting question that just popped into my head.

With proximity locks, once you're in the vehicle I believe all jeeps auto-lock the doors over 5MPH (I think), so once you're at a stop light or a parking spot with the fob still in your pocket, is there anything stopping someone (like a robber or carjacker) from just opening your door from the outside? Or does the system know not to allow the proximity unlock until the door is either opened or unlocked from the inside first?
It knows if you’re inside or not. If you get out with the key in your pocket and close the door with the Jeep running it will honk the horn three times. If you just open the door and close it without getting out it doesn’t honk. I assume that also means it wouldn’t unlock if someone tried to get in.
 
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Dyolfknip74

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Here's a dumb, but possibly interesting question that just popped into my head.

With proximity locks, once you're in the vehicle I believe all jeeps auto-lock the doors over 5MPH (I think), so once you're at a stop light or a parking spot with the fob still in your pocket, is there anything stopping someone (like a robber or carjacker) from just opening your door from the outside? Or does the system know not to allow the proximity unlock until the door is either opened or unlocked from the inside first?
Leave keys in your jeep while it's running. Get out and try to lock it. It won't lock. Now, grab second set and lock from outside then put second set back into house. Try using proximity to unlock it. It won't.

It knows if you’re inside or not. If you get out with the key in your pocket and close the door with the Jeep running it will honk the horn three times. If you just open the door and close it without getting out it doesn’t honk. I assume that also means it wouldn’t unlock if someone tried to get in.
Not all of them honk. That's a new thing that's been added in the last model year. Mine is a 21 and only honks if I try to use proximity to lock it while keys are in it. I can lock it with a fob button press without honking as well.
 
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What do people think is the minimum frequency with which to take my 3.6L JL Sahara out for a drive without infrequency of use causing potential harm? Please note that the batteries are connected to a trickle charger when the vehicle is parked.

Once a week? More, less?

(I love my Wrangler, but I have a cheaper to operate sedan than even then I only need about twice a week.)
 

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What do people think is the minimum frequency with which to take my 3.6L JL Sahara out for a drive without infrequency of use causing potential harm? Please note that the batteries are connected to a trickle charger when the vehicle is parked.

Once a week? More, less?
If there's no call to drive the vehicle in question, periodic starting and/or brief drives to "warm the fluids" or "charge the battery" may do more harm than good. Use it if you need to get somewhere, and leave it parked if you don't. đź‘Ť

The foregoing informs my seasonal motorcycle storage regimen: The tank is filled after adding a dose of stabilizer, the oil is changed, the chain and all pivot points are lubricated, the bike is washed, the cylinder fogged, tire pressures checked, the battery connected via pigtail to a quality tender, a cover is put on and I walk away. There's no need to attempt to burn off phantom moisture, etc., which might not even occur if I start the bike just to idle it. 20+ years on, this M.O. has always worked to ensure easy starting in the Spring.

Scaled up, the same can apply to an automobile. A battery tender will perhaps provide the most benefit here, even if nothing else is done to tidy up the vehicle before it is knowingly parked for a time.
 

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I have a Tuffy enclosure in the back and am looking for a rack to bolt to the top.

Anyone done this?

If so, what rack?
 

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My last JLUR had extremely beefy valve stem covers. AEV, however, seems to prefer the wimpy generic things that would seem at home on a Prius.

Where can I find valve stem covers that are a little more beefy that I can actually grab onto when airing up and down?
 

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Q: If an energized 12V power source (not a power demanding appliance) is plugged into the 12V accessory plug in the cargo area, and that plug was configured--as it comes from the factory--to always be energized/connected to the batteries, even when the engine is off, could that 12V accessory plug in the cargo area be used to charge the vehicle's batteries?

(That outlet can be configured as energized only when the vehicle is on, like the one in the dash ,by moving a fuse--but I'm not talking about doing that.)

The question rephrased: does anyone think that there is a diode on this 12V accessory plug in the cargo area that might prevent the flow of current towards the battery?

The forum's schematic on same doesn't seem to show one: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/POWER-OUTLETS.pdf

I was thinking of installing a small trickle charging solar panel on an existing roof rack, near the rear of my JL, with a charge controller, and rather than run cabling up to the hood to get to the batteries, use this 12V accessory plug in the cargo area.

TIA
 

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Q: If an energized 12V power source (not a power demanding appliance) is plugged into the 12V accessory plug in the cargo area, and that plug was configured--as it comes from the factory--to always be energized/connected to the batteries, even when the engine is off, could that 12V accessory plug in the cargo area be used to charge the vehicle's batteries?

(That outlet can be configured as energized only when the vehicle is on, like the one in the dash ,by moving a fuse--but I'm not talking about doing that.)

The question rephrased: does anyone think that there is a diode on this 12V accessory plug in the cargo area that might prevent the flow of current towards the battery?

The forum's schematic on same doesn't seem to show one: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/POWER-OUTLETS.pdf

I was thinking of installing a small trickle charging solar panel on an existing roof rack, near the rear of my JL, with a charge controller, and rather than run cabling up to the hood to get to the batteries, use this 12V accessory plug in the cargo area.

TIA
I totally understand what you’re going for and applaud you for it but it’s a recipe for disaster. There is no inline diode that I’m aware of. A dedicated separate charging source for the battery like a solar setup is your best bet.
 

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Q: If an energized 12V power source (not a power demanding appliance) is plugged into the 12V accessory plug in the cargo area, and that plug was configured--as it comes from the factory--to always be energized/connected to the batteries, even when the engine is off, could that 12V accessory plug in the cargo area be used to charge the vehicle's batteries?

(That outlet can be configured as energized only when the vehicle is on, like the one in the dash ,by moving a fuse--but I'm not talking about doing that.)

The question rephrased: does anyone think that there is a diode on this 12V accessory plug in the cargo area that might prevent the flow of current towards the battery?

The forum's schematic on same doesn't seem to show one: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/JL-Wiring-Diagrams/POWER-OUTLETS.pdf

I was thinking of installing a small trickle charging solar panel on an existing roof rack, near the rear of my JL, with a charge controller, and rather than run cabling up to the hood to get to the batteries, use this 12V accessory plug in the cargo area.

TIA
Even if the cargo area power port allows the reverse flow of energy, a lot of juice will be lost from the combined resistance of that longer circuit. Best off attaching the solar panel directly to the battery. If you still have the factory main and aux setup, attach the negative lead to the negative post on the main battery and the positive lead to the #1 accessory post (most forward) under the fuse box cover.
 

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I totally understand what you’re going for and applaud you for it but it’s a recipe for disaster. There is no inline diode that I’m aware of. A dedicated separate charging source for the battery like a solar setup is your best bet.
I'm confused as to your reply. I am so because, as you say, "a dedicated separate charging source for the battery like a solar setup is your best bet," when that is precisely what I propose.
 

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Even if the cargo area power port allows the reverse flow of energy, a lot of juice will be lost from the combined resistance of that longer circuit. Best off attaching the solar panel directly to the battery. If you still have the factory main and aux setup, attach the negative lead to the negative post on the main battery and the positive lead to the #1 accessory post (most forward) under the fuse box cover.
Thanks Mike:

The direct connection to the batteries and its likelihood to result in less loss of ampacity, particular given shorter and thicker cable runs had me contemplating installing the solar panel on the hood.

Some quick background: I have both batteries and run ESS. I'm also an infrequent driver.

Between the price of gas, Amazon, WFH, global warming, etc. I tend to not need to take my Sahara out more than once weekly and have found that trickle charging, which I currently do from shore power, gets ESS working as soon as all the other factors (e.g. engine warmth) for it engaging are met.

(Saving small amounts of money on gasoline via ESS only to spend it on shore power electric or a solar panel has not escaped this simple man.)

I was contemplating "cutting the tether" to shore power for trickle charging, and replacing it with a solar panel, freeing up where I park, such that if it outside. it would still trickle charge batteries.

I love Cascadia 4 x 4 offerings https://www.cascadia4x4.com/collections/vss-system-hood-mounted-solar but pricey and not in love with hood placement. I already have a roof rack.

Lensun Solar https://www.lensunsolar.com/?Pmax=f...MIsebXhoSu-wIVD4vICh1BmAWSEAAYASAAEgKeLPD_BwE offers similar setups and purchase of components, like solar controller, separately.

You'll be amazed how much cheaper a flexible solar panel is, small enough to fit between windshield washer jets, when not expressly dedicated to Wrangler trickle charging.;)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7FK2M3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Let you know what I do and find....
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