PSC Hydro Assist installation instructions for 3.6L ??

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Install of the PSC Cylinder Assist w/big bore gear box on a 3.6L non e is completed!
Thanks for all the help. No issues at full lock. I ended up just using 2 and 3/4 quarts of the 4 supplied by PSC. The track bar side is a little high, but nothing is hitting. I will take her out and flex her on Saturday. Next on the "to do list" is the Artec truss for my front D44.

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[CaJLMetalHead]

Install of the PSC Cylinder Assist w/big bore gear box on a 3.6L non e is completed!
Thanks for all the help. No issues at full lock. I ended up just using 2 and 3/4 quarts of the 4 supplied by PSC. The track bar side is a little high, but nothing is hitting. I will take her out and flex her on Saturday. Next on the "to do list" is the Artec truss for my front D44.

Good job!

My track side bracket is also a little high.. but mine has been like that for a couple months now with no issues..

I also welded Artec a truss to my front D44 axle including the reinforcements for the Cs.. a good product... are you planning on welding the truss to the cast parts of the axle?.. like the FAD and the diff? it is more involved since you will have to torch the parts to get them hot enough for the welds not to crack.. fun stuff !!

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

Good job!

My track side bracket is also a little high.. but mine has been like that for a couple months now with no issues..

I also welded Artec a truss to my front D44 axle including the reinforcements for the Cs.. a good product... are you planning on welding the truss to the cast parts of the axle?.. like the FAD and the diff? it is more involved since you will have to torch the parts to get them hot enough for the welds not to crack.. fun stuff !!

I have been told our axles are cast steel and should be okay to weld without preheat. I will need to get a weld blanket to slow the cooling though. Its been in the mid 50s here in Central Jersey. I will tackle the truss next weekend. I have a buddy that has a forklift and offered to do a controlled flex to make sure my hoses are clear. I still havent even put my KM3 39s on the Hutchinson yet. Much to do this winter. LOL

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

I have been told our axles are cast steel and should be okay to weld without preheat. I will need to get a weld blanket to slow the cooling though. Its been in the mid 50s here in Central Jersey. I will tackle the truss next weekend. I have a buddy that has a forklift and offered to do a controlled flex to make sure my hoses are clear. I still havent even put my KM3 39s on the Hutchinson yet. Much to do this winter. LOL

Uhmm ok.. I am telling you because I tried to take the shortcut of welding the truss with no preheating and I've got the dreaded "ping" sound that results from the welding cracking.. LOL.. this was on a stock JL front D44 axle.. same as yours.. I hope you get lucky !!! let me know how it goes..

 

[APiratesLife4Me]

I see it's too late for you guys now but for anyone that finds this later, the cooler and valve that go into the pump are from Apex. PSC just buys them and puts them in their kit.

There are very good instructions/videos on the Apex website and YouTube for installing the cooler under the radiator and running the lines. From there, you'll just need to figure out your high pressure lines from the steering box to the ram I think.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

I see it's too late for you guys now but for anyone that finds this later, the cooler and valve that go into the pump are from Apex. PSC just buys them and puts them in their kit.

There are very good instructions/videos on the Apex website and YouTube for installing the cooler under the radiator and running the lines. From there, you'll just need to figure out your high pressure lines from the steering box to the ram I think.

Good point.. I actually found out online about the kit. because the radiator came with an Apex sticker.. LOL.. I will find the resource online and I will add it to the documentation.. Thanks!

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

I was going to take the front axle out to weld, but I saw this video and will do it on.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

I was going to take the front axle out to weld, but I saw this video and will do it on.

AwesomO !!

The only thing I would do differently is the way the welding ground was used.. he welded a piece of stock on one side and then proceeded to weld all around.. all good when he is welding the truss side with the welded ground stock.. but when he welds the other side the electricity will travel through the axle house including the differential housing, with the potential (pun intended) of the current traveling through the gears and the bearings, causing electrical arcing which can cause damage, especially to the bearings... I much rather get the magnetic welding ground and move it around to be as close to the welds as possible..

 

[APiratesLife4Me]

I was going to take the front axle out to weld, but I saw this video and will do it on.

I completely removed the axle because I have a "while I'm in there" illness that prevents me from reinstalling stock components if they come out. So I did knuckles, RCVs, steering, ball joints, unit bearings, and potted the locker sensors at the same time. I would honestly pull the whole thing just for access. It was annoying enough to do with the axle removed, I can't imagine how obnoxious it would be installed.

Also, you 100% need to pre-heat the pumpkin and FAD castings to weld. Cast steel is the kind that requires it, not rolled or tube steel. It's a complete pain to keep the cast sections hot enough while you bounce around with the welding. I got a few cracks on the FAD that I had to re-do because I didn't keep it hot enough.

Word of warning - watch that E-locker bulkhead passthrough connector (where your E-locker harness connects to the axle housing). You weld super close to it and I melted mine. It took me FOREVER to figure out what it's called to order a new one.

It's this: https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/68400411AA-axle-locker-connector-jl-rubicon-dana-44

 

[19 JLUR Bright Whit3]

I completely removed the axle because I have a "while I'm in there" illness that prevents me from reinstalling stock components if they come out. So I did knuckles, RCVs, steering, ball joints, unit bearings, and potted the locker sensors at the same time. I would honestly pull the whole thing just for access. It was annoying enough to do with the axle removed, I can't imagine how obnoxious it would be installed.

Also, you 100% need to pre-heat the pumpkin and FAD castings to weld. Cast steel is the kind that requires it, not rolled or tube steel. It's a complete pain to keep the cast sections hot enough while you bounce around with the welding. I got a few cracks on the FAD that I had to re-do because I didn't keep it hot enough.

Word of warning - watch that E-locker bulkhead passthrough connector (where your E-locker harness connects to the axle housing). You weld super close to it and I melted mine. It took me FOREVER to figure out what it's called to order a new one.

It's this: https://www.quadratec.com/p/mopar/68400411AA-axle-locker-connector-jl-rubicon-dana-44

Thanks dude!

 

[DLW]

Can someone kindly confirm the line routing for the ram please?
Mine is mounted where the ram piston is facing the drivers side as in the pic below, unlike the way it would if mounting in the stock location.

I have read some conflicting info and just want to be clear since I am hooking up those lines right now and prefer to do it right the first time. Any guidance is appreciated.

The diagram on PSC site show this for the ram (red/orange lines), which I think is right, if you guys/gals could confirm?

Edit:
Here is a pic of the diagram that that came with my kit, doesn't seem right and some of where my confusion comes from:

 

[chevymitchell]

Can someone kindly confirm the line routing for the ram please?
Mine is mounted where the ram piston is facing the drivers side as in the pic below, unlike the way it would if mounting in the stock location.

I have read some conflicting info and just want to be clear since I am hooking up those lines right now and prefer to do it right the first time. Any guidance is appreciated.

The diagram on PSC site show this for the ram (red/orange lines), which I think is right, if you guys/gals could confirm?

Edit:
Here is a pic of the diagram that that came with my kit, doesn't seem right and some of where my confusion comes from:

Here you go, man. Give it a minute to upload in HD. I just ran down to the garage a few minutes ago to make this quick. Should help out.

 

[DLW]

Hey Shawn, your awesome man!
Really appreciate you taking the time in making a video of that.
Looks like the second pic I posted was the correct way after all. Now I need to go out and swap mine around, I only put them on loosely foe now. And good idea to tension them up using the tie wraps to give them more upward angle so they don't slop down to much.

I even watched the video northridge4x4 made of their PSC install on a gladiator, and the text they put on the screen said " connect the right side to port nearest the firewall". Maybe they meant right side as in passenger side.

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