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Member
- First Name
- Travis
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2019
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- Location
- Los Angeles
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Wrangler JLU Sport
Okay here is some info on the jumper required for us Sport owners, especially those of us who have mentioned that their XY315A connector already has wires running to pins 20, 21, 25 and 26 on the female side, even though they are missing the pins on male side. (see post #1518 of this thread).
I ordered my pins from the company Newark, PN 33001-4002 and 1718350-2 and I used 20 gauge wire.
First thing, this is what my jumper looks like (circled in red). It goes from the body-side of the door connectors (pins 15 and 16), to the female side of the XY315A connector (pins 25/26 for driver door, 20/21 for passenger door). I only did the driver door for now.
Hindsight I would've made my jumper a few inches longer, but it reaches fine (it is about 12" long here). I may re-make it longer when I do the passenger door down the road.
Now, for most people, pins 20, 21, 25 and 26 on your XY315A connector will be empty (or will have little white plugs in them which can be rather easily popped out). For a few unfortunate souls such as me and @Rob4162 in Post #1518 of this thread, all of the pins will be occupied with wires running to them. What I have discovered is that these are DUMMY WIRES, I guess just placeholders to keep water out? Early production thing? Not sure. I traced mine about 6 inches up the loom and they are cut, capped and wrapped. Please verify this on your own vehicle, but the "dummy" wires are all the same black/orange, so I knew something was off about them. If this is your case, you will have to remove these dummy pins/wires before you can replace them with your jumper wires. Here are some pics of this:
Here are my DUMMY 25/26 pins removed. I do not think the black cap had to be popped up, it just made it easier for me to see what was going on underneath (the pins slide through a white, waterproof grommet under this black cap). I just taped these dummy terminals up and out of the way.
In order to remove these pins, you have to pop out the red cover on the face of the connector. Careful, it's fragile, but I found that there is a nice gap to pry up on in one of the circled (green) areas here:
With that out of the way, you can use a small tool to push up on the little tabs while pulling on the wire on the back end and the pin should slide out. Actually it is best to PUSH on the wire from the back, lift the tab, then pull the wire. They make specialty tools for this - I used an embroidery needle. I recommend the specialty tool. Tabs can be seen here:
Here is my XY315A connector with dummy pins 20, 21, 25 and 26 removed, and my jumper pins inserted into 26 and 26:
Make sure you insert the pins in the correct orientation and they will click into place. Then, the red cap can be replaced.
To insert the other end of the jumper into pins 15/16 of the door connector, the white bar on the side of the connector needs to be pried up. I do not have a photo of this, but it is seen in post #1262 of this thread.
There isn't much slack in the harness on the door-connection side, I just tilted the back of the connector toward me just enough to see where the pins slide in. For the XY315A side, I did disconnect most everything else in the area (other connectors, ground cables, etc) to give me more room to work. This is optional.
That's it I think. I know this is a long post but hopefully it helps someone.
I ordered my pins from the company Newark, PN 33001-4002 and 1718350-2 and I used 20 gauge wire.
First thing, this is what my jumper looks like (circled in red). It goes from the body-side of the door connectors (pins 15 and 16), to the female side of the XY315A connector (pins 25/26 for driver door, 20/21 for passenger door). I only did the driver door for now.
Hindsight I would've made my jumper a few inches longer, but it reaches fine (it is about 12" long here). I may re-make it longer when I do the passenger door down the road.
Now, for most people, pins 20, 21, 25 and 26 on your XY315A connector will be empty (or will have little white plugs in them which can be rather easily popped out). For a few unfortunate souls such as me and @Rob4162 in Post #1518 of this thread, all of the pins will be occupied with wires running to them. What I have discovered is that these are DUMMY WIRES, I guess just placeholders to keep water out? Early production thing? Not sure. I traced mine about 6 inches up the loom and they are cut, capped and wrapped. Please verify this on your own vehicle, but the "dummy" wires are all the same black/orange, so I knew something was off about them. If this is your case, you will have to remove these dummy pins/wires before you can replace them with your jumper wires. Here are some pics of this:
Here are my DUMMY 25/26 pins removed. I do not think the black cap had to be popped up, it just made it easier for me to see what was going on underneath (the pins slide through a white, waterproof grommet under this black cap). I just taped these dummy terminals up and out of the way.
In order to remove these pins, you have to pop out the red cover on the face of the connector. Careful, it's fragile, but I found that there is a nice gap to pry up on in one of the circled (green) areas here:
With that out of the way, you can use a small tool to push up on the little tabs while pulling on the wire on the back end and the pin should slide out. Actually it is best to PUSH on the wire from the back, lift the tab, then pull the wire. They make specialty tools for this - I used an embroidery needle. I recommend the specialty tool. Tabs can be seen here:
Here is my XY315A connector with dummy pins 20, 21, 25 and 26 removed, and my jumper pins inserted into 26 and 26:
Make sure you insert the pins in the correct orientation and they will click into place. Then, the red cap can be replaced.
To insert the other end of the jumper into pins 15/16 of the door connector, the white bar on the side of the connector needs to be pried up. I do not have a photo of this, but it is seen in post #1262 of this thread.
There isn't much slack in the harness on the door-connection side, I just tilted the back of the connector toward me just enough to see where the pins slide in. For the XY315A side, I did disconnect most everything else in the area (other connectors, ground cables, etc) to give me more room to work. This is optional.
That's it I think. I know this is a long post but hopefully it helps someone.
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