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Proximity door locks retrofit install (instructions, parts, links) on JL Wrangler

jlgunner2

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So I completed the installation on the driver side door tonight. And in an abundance of caution, decided to test the windows and power locks before moving onto the passenger door and tailgate.

The windows work just fine, but now power lock and mirrors are OUT across the entire jeep! Key fob still works, though, for both lock and unlock.

Is this normal when you only have one door set up for proximity, but not the others?

FYI -- I did try reseating all cables and tried swapping out handles and caps (didn't swap out wire harness yet).

Thanks for any advice!
That’s not normal. I had the driver and tailgate installed while waiting for passenger harness to come in.
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Gregj

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You have bent pins in the connector for the door, it is very easy to do. Disconnect the door and look in the body side of the connector and one or more pins will be out of alignment, carefully bend them back in line with the rest. I had the same issue after I put the doors back on one time.

FCA could use a more robust connector for something that is designed to removed and replaced often.
Gregj
 

GatorMBA

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You have bent pins in the connector for the door, it is very easy to do. Disconnect the door and look in the body side of the connector and one or more pins will be out of alignment, carefully bend them back in line with the rest. I had the same issue after I put the doors back on one time.

FCA could use a more robust connector for something that is designed to removed and replaced often.
Gregj
This is EXACTLY what it was. I'm so relieved that it wasn't something related to my installation. Thank you!
 

Grateful1

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This is EXACTLY what it was. I'm so relieved that it wasn't something related to my installation. Thank you!
Got to like it when you ca rebound from a boo boo easily like that. Want to come over and help me. 😂
 

GatorMBA

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Got to like it when you ca rebound from a boo boo easily like that. Want to come over and help me.
If you were a little closer than Alabama -- or if I lived in the Panhandle closer to you -- I'd come help ya out for a sandwich. Honestly, this was kind of a fun little DIY project.

P.S. @Grateful... I cannot stress enough that when you do it, do not skip/miss the "tuck the extra pigtail behind the white window guard" step. I did this at first, rolled my window down, and *SNAP.* I was very lucky and the window just yanked the pigtail connector out instead of ripping wires out.
 

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Grateful1

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If you were a little closer than Alabama -- or if I lived in the Panhandle closer to you -- I'd come help ya out for a sandwich. Honestly, this was kind of a fun little DIY project.

P.S. @Grateful... I cannot stress enough that when you do it, do not skip/miss the "tuck the extra pigtail behind the white window guard" step. I did this at first, rolled my window down, and *SNAP.* I was very lucky and the window just yanked the pigtail connector out instead of ripping wires out.
Thanks for the heads up. The (before we dated) wife bought the ‘98 TJ Sport off the lot two years after she graduated from Auburn on Memorial Day weekend. So we bought off the lot in ‘18. It didn’t have any upgrades except a Dana44 rear for the Sahara. So I am adding all the Mopar upgrades I can. The proximity locks I hope will be a fun upgrade. After my next deployment in September I will add leather with heated seats & a lift.

Edit. Off the lot in ‘18 on Memorial Day weekend.
 
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calvinf1

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If you were a little closer than Alabama -- or if I lived in the Panhandle closer to you -- I'd come help ya out for a sandwich. Honestly, this was kind of a fun little DIY project.

P.S. @Grateful... I cannot stress enough that when you do it, do not skip/miss the "tuck the extra pigtail behind the white window guard" step. I did this at first, rolled my window down, and *SNAP.* I was very lucky and the window just yanked the pigtail connector out instead of ripping wires out.
100% agree about tucking the pig tail behind the track. This took awhile to figure out the most proper way to route the wire. Also it is good to test the window right away before bolting things back together.

This was one of the more painless DIY project.... thanks to JSCAN making it possible.

Now that I have this feature, I can't imagine not having this in future cars.
 

Purplehayes

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I have a 2021 JLU Willys and I bought all the parts to do both front doors and the rear door. My Jeep had the wires in the dash harness so I added the door harnesses and handles with the new pieces next to them. Used the Tazer mini to activate it and only my rear door handle works. Has anyone had this happen? I checked the dash harness for bent pins as someone else recommended but every thing looks good. Any help would be great. Thanks.
 

david63

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The harness and cap both seem good not sure if I can test the handle but that seems to be the part that is the most complex. Figured what the heck ordered another set of parts and will see if that helps otherwise I’ll have a tailgate set for sale at some point.
For those following my tale of frustration I just got a new set of parts for the tailgate, I was able to quickly try the new cap & handle, and no luck, key fob flashes but no lock or unlock. The last thing is the new harness which I will try later, not feeling real positive about that helping but we will see. If this does not work then I'll have a nice new set for the tailgate for sale.
 

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ZeroTrev

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I found it! Thank you
 

david63

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For those following my tale of frustration I just got a new set of parts for the tailgate, I was able to quickly try the new cap & handle, and no luck, key fob flashes but no lock or unlock. The last thing is the new harness which I will try later, not feeling real positive about that helping but we will see. If this does not work then I'll have a nice new set for the tailgate for sale.
After testing all the new parts I end up with the same result so it seems the parts are fine there is something else going on, any thoughts would be appreciated. That being said I have the harness, cap, and handle for the tailgate will sell for $120 shipped in the US(I paid $125 + Shipping). Just let me know if you are interested
 

calvinf1

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After testing all the new parts I end up with the same result so it seems the parts are fine there is something else going on, any thoughts would be appreciated. That being said I have the harness, cap, and handle for the tailgate will sell for $120 shipped in the US(I paid $125 + Shipping). Just let me know if you are interested
Sorry to hear about your continued struggle on this. What's next?
 

HungryHound

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As stated in previous thread you want to make sure you already have the antennas needed. Sahara and Rubicon are supposed to already have them if you have keyless entry w/ push to start.

This is what I did along with the videos and resources I used.

Step 1 - swap handles
(Parts Needed: Torx T20)

Follow this video:


rear swing gate has a grommet that needs to be removed to access the T20 screw holding the cap.

Step 2 - remove door panels.
(Tools needed: Torx T20, Torx T30 & plastic pry tool)

PDF
http://www.myjlproject.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Door-Trim-Panel-Removal.pdf

CEB1F7D5-1398-4ABD-8A41-5C771126EE6F.png



Follow this video to remove the panel



Step 3 - remove inner door card
(Tools needed: 10mm socket)

PDF
http://www.myjlproject.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Inner-Door-Plate-Removal.pdf

Remove 9 bolts around perimeter of the plate.

846C433C-7809-4960-A38A-FD04DF5A30BB.jpeg

(Pic of all bolts and wires removed)

Roll the window down till you see the bolts holding the window. Remove bolts holding window and tape window up to keep it out of the way.

57E4BEA7-06C4-4DFB-8876-308BD421528F.jpeg


Once you have the window up you need to carefully pull the inner card back enough to get to the wire to the door lock and handle. This is the hardest part, you have to lift up slightly to get the bottom out first. You then have to pull down and twist just enough to clear the power window track and actuator.

444B1763-D4AC-49A3-9C3F-12E9E0F4A7F8.jpeg

(Tried to get a pic of the track you need to maneuver out)

Once you have the card pulled back enough remove and replace the door harness. This part is pretty self explanatory. Just make sure when you add the handle pigtail it is out of the way of the window path.

Step 4 - put everything back together

Step 5 - rear swing gate jumper
(Tools needed: Plastic pry tool)

Using a pry tool firmly pull the plastic panel off on the rear swing gate

E8DC5ED6-B259-4EFA-9FA0-DCF3E6FF59C1.jpeg
05EEF701-22CB-41B3-94DA-8A35E403A0D6.jpeg

(Pics borrowed from fellow members)

Step 6 - replace power lock harness with new jumper

Step 7 - put plastic panel back on

Step 8 - go to dealer and have them add sales code GXD and program vehicle

Parts List:


DOOR HARNESS

LF door

P/N 68325454AE (w/o BSM) - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-front-door-wiring-68325454ae

P/N 68299333AE (w/ BSM) - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-front-door-wiring-68299333ae

RF door

P/N 68325461AE (w/o BSM) - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-front-door-wiring-68325461ae

P/N 68299332AE (w/ BSM) - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-front-door-wiring-68299332ae

Rear Gate Jumper

P/N 68351167AA - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-jumper-wiring-68351167aa


HANDLES

Front doors

P/N 68307269AC - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-exterior-door-handle-right-68307269ac

rear swing gate

P/N 68309825AC - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-exterior-door-handle-68309825ac


CAPS

Front door caps

P/N 68307272AD - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-door-handle-cap-right-68307272ad

Rear swing gate

P/N 68309830AC - https://www.moparoneonline.com/oem-parts/mopar-door-handle-cap-68309830ac
Great post, but you really should have put more plates on the bench press bar for the swing gate photo.
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