tph88
Active Member
Just curious if it fits my "bad batch" theoryNot sure what the dates are but I will check. I’ll get back to you. Thanks
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Just curious if it fits my "bad batch" theoryNot sure what the dates are but I will check. I’ll get back to you. Thanks
When placing an order for this wiring, DO NOT include your vehicle's VIN number in the order! If you do, there's a chance that they will "correct" your carefully chosen wiring harness part numbers, and send you the ones that match your VIN. Since (presumably) your VIN indicates a vehicle without proximity locks, you'll get the non-proximity harness instead of the proximity one.
This is what happened to me.
I put my vin# in they just emailed me saying that those parts aren’t the ones originally installed on the vehicle and if I was looking to add an option and chose to go ahead they weren’t returnable, they could not guarantee they would work.
Note to self: No VIN on parts orders when adding features that the VIN doesn't show it as having.
I got this same reply today. I'll try it tonight. Not going to use a soldering gun though. I'm going to see if I can get the magnet out without breaking the tabs, maybe just bend them out a little. Or, if I do have to remove the tabs, I'll try to hold the magnet in there with a dab of hot glue. Eh, worth a try. They said if that doesn't work they'll exchange them.I just got a reply from AllMoparParts.com to check out this thread on the gladiator forum:
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/forum/threads/proximity-door-locks-retrofit-on-wrangler-gladiator-someone-figured-it-out-diy-writeup.29199/page-39#post-707941
Someone figured out a solution. The date on their bad end cap was also 1/4
I haven't tried the solution since I don't want to break open the cap and don't know how to use a solder iron.
The handles did absolutely nothing as Karen said. I was lucky enough to be able to test by borrowing one of my JT caps that are known to be good (it was factory equipped) but, you can also check to see if this is the problem by taking a small refridgerator magnet and put it up against the flat back side of the door handle (with the cap out). If it works, you know it's a bad cap. If it doesn't work then, you've got either missing wires or a programming problem.What was yours doing when they wouldn’t work? On mine nothing happens on both front doors but rear door works great. This is driving me crazy. Any help would be great. Did the fronts do anything?
I too have a Sport JLUD that doesn't have the wires on the body side. I used to be an aircraft electrical tech so the process of jumpering doesn't seem tough, but I have a question. Where does the jumper connect? Do I go through the firewall or what? Thank you so much for answering. Everything on mine is installed and yet...nothing. I never considered they would use a different harness on the Sport, as making everything uniform saves them bucks. But NOOOO...ours has to be different.I spent 2 hours searching wiring diagrams, if there was a factory way to do it I would have.
I too have a Sport JLUD that doesn't have the wires on the body side. I used to be an aircraft electrical tech so the process of jumpering doesn't seem tough, but I have a question. Where does the jumper connect? Do I go through the firewall or what? Thank you so much for answering. Everything on mine is installed and yet...nothing. I never considered they would use a different harness on the Sport, as making everything uniform saves them bucks. But NOOOO...ours has to be different.
I see that the wires are green/white & green/yellow. Is that the same color you connect to on the white connector in photo #2? I appreciate your help, thank you.Good news! I made a jumper harness with a weatherpack connection so I can still take my doors off, wired it all in and it works!!
I see that the wires are green/white & green/yellow. Is that the same color you connect to on the white connector in photo #2? I appreciate your help, thank you.
Here’s what I figured out after I removed my caps. They are the same part numbers and my original ones. I never confirmed the part numbers after I ordered the parts. So I took them apart and there is no magnets in them. Here is a picture of mine, but the dates are older then the 1/4. I am ordering the correct ones tomorrow. I’ll keep you updated. Thanks.Just curious if it fits my "bad batch" theory
The bottom one in the picture looks like the right on. The old ones are 271AD and the new ones are 272AD. Only thing different is the little magnet inside.I ordered the kit but the caps look to be the same as I had without proximity. Can anyone confirm?