Proofread my 2021 Build

DrRay81

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So I'm due to take delivery of my 2021 JLUR in the next 2 weeks or so. I've been going through the forums for the past couple months planning my build. So here's what I have so far ordered with my shop.

JLUR Diesel loaded up 64,435 MSRP
-MetalCloak Gamechanger 2.5
-Accutune Fox 2.5 Elite Performance external reservoir front and rear shocks
-Accutune Fox ATS steering stabilizer
-Synergy Manufacturing Track bar and sector shaft brace
-Doetsch 2" aluminum drag link and tie rod
-Adams 1310 front driveshaft
-VenomRex VR501 17x9
-Nitto Ridge Grappler 37x12.5R17

so that's what we've come up with so far, I don't think I'll need a rear driveshaft or axle shafts at this point. anything I'm overlooking or missing or should get done while it's on the lift and alignment rack?





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DrRay81

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I have a fair bit of experience but it's been a few years. I had a mild JKUR build teraflex 2.5 and 35's. this one is going to be a bit more in depth nothing extreme but I want it perfectly capable. Got away from jeeps and went to different cars and now I'm back. the plan is get the suspension done first and then do skids and diff covers. I do plan on using this as a daily as well.
 

Revolution_322

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I have a fair bit of experience but it's been a few years. I had a mild JKUR build teraflex 2.5 and 35's. this one is going to be a bit more in depth nothing extreme but I want it perfectly capable. Got away from jeeps and went to different cars and now I'm back. the plan is get the suspension done first and then do skids and diff covers. I do plan on using this as a daily as well.
Improvemevts over the JK are crazy. Co comparison . Between the trans and the axles/now the oil burner (even tho im not really a fan) are insane. For a stock vehicle you can upgrade for 5-6k the level of capability dwarfs what we had just 10 years ago.
 
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DrRay81

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yeah I can only imagine. I'm already at 13k on this build just with what I listed. that's including install though. wheels and tires and tpms 3k, game changer $2200, shocks $2800, tie rod and drag link $870, driveshaft, steering brace, steering stabilizer $1300, plus some various interior things and teraflex hd tire mount. was hoping to get under 15k but I still want to do skids and diff covers. a Maximus 3 rack. maybe a winch who knows.
 

rustyshakelford

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Sounds like you have a heck of a plan. Only suggestion would be to swap to 3.5” springs. The diesel specific springs haven’t been released yet. The gas springs are great but you’ll be sitting about .5” lower than they do. With 37s, Id like to see a little more clearance so you don’t have to run a ton of bump stops

excited to see it come together and you’re going to love the MC lift with the accutune valved shocks

brett
 
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DrRay81

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After looking at every thread with 37”s and lifts I’m gonna take Rusty’s advice and go 3.5 lift. With a diesel I’m already gonna lose 0.5”. And with armor and such maybe more. Now I just need my Jeep to get here
 

guarnibl

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3 1/2" with 37's is ideal IMO even w/o the diesel making it sit lower.
 

Goin2drt

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So why would you need to replace the front drive shaft but “you don’t need to” replace the rear? Are you doing something that specifically puts the front at risk of breaking but that same activity doesn’t do the same to the rear? I am genuinely confused. I assumed if you are that hard on your Jeep you would need both.
 

PillowFightr

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So I'm due to take delivery of my 2021 JLUR in the next 2 weeks or so. I've been going through the forums for the past couple months planning my build. So here's what I have so far ordered with my shop.

JLUR Diesel loaded up 64,435 MSRP
-MetalCloak Gamechanger 2.5
-Accutune Fox 2.5 Elite Performance external reservoir front and rear shocks
-Accutune Fox ATS steering stabilizer
-Synergy Manufacturing Track bar and sector shaft brace
-Doetsch 2" aluminum drag link and tie rod
-Adams 1310 front driveshaft
-VenomRex VR501 17x9
-Nitto Ridge Grappler 37x12.5R17

so that's what we've come up with so far, I don't think I'll need a rear driveshaft or axle shafts at this point. anything I'm overlooking or missing or should get done while it's on the lift and alignment rack?
Man what an amazing build! Curious though, you chose the Nitto Ridge Grappler 37x12.5R17, but they make Nitto Ridge Grappler 37x13.5R17!

The second version is 1.06" wider tire! (best approved rim width of 11" instead of 10") and only weigh 6 pounds more per tire :D That would look even more beastly! :rock:

But honestly, your config is pretty nice
 

Amaruq

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So why would you need to replace the front drive shaft but “you don’t need to” replace the rear? Are you doing something that specifically puts the front at risk of breaking but that same activity doesn’t do the same to the rear? I am genuinely confused. I assumed if you are that hard on your Jeep you would need both.
With the droop that the metalcloak suspension provides, the front driveshaft will bind before the rear.
 
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Goin2drt

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With the droop that the metalcloak suspension provides, the front driveshaft will make contact and bind before the rear.
Only significant with Metal Cloak? I have a 2.5” RK lift on 35’s. Should I be wary of the same issue?
 

Amaruq

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Only significant with Metal Cloak? I have a 2.5” RK lift on 35’s. Should I be wary of the same issue?
I doubt it only applies to Metalcloak. Whenever the angle becomes great enough, over time you can have an issue. You can either test the limit yourself, or look for documentation from manufacturer.
 
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DrRay81

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The front driveshaft is thicker and at full droop will hit the crossmember. Aftermarket Adam’s is thinner and stronger
 

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