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Rubi-Zero

Rubi-Zero

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This project is being sponsored by Covid -19 :LOL:
So after installing two layers of 80mil Noico sound deadening material throughout the cab and panels, it was time to do the next layer to further my noise reduction. I was wanting to use at least 6mm thick closed cell foam for this layer but Siless was sold out and didn’t know when the next stock would be in, so I was able to source this closed cell foam from Uxcell but it was a little thicker then I wanted it to be at 8mm. There is so much room under the stock carpet without any kind of padding so this should fill it up nicely. The good thing about this foam is it was way cheaper then what I was originally wanting. I was hoping the quality would be just as good though and it is. It’s very easy to apply, just cut, peel, and stick.

Being 2mm thicker then I was wanting, I had to keep in mind of the carpet anchor mounts, so I would still be able to snap them down. So with that in mind I kept some space there around that point. I also had to leave some room along the edge so the carpet will still tuck under the interior panels.
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This is the front belt panels with sound deadening material and closed cell foam.
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this is the second time pulling the interior out and put back in the same day, but this layer went on a lot faster then when I did the two layers of 80mil Noico.
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front kick panel that was covered in 80mil Noico and then this 8mm. It feel so much more solid
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So this weekend I have the door panels I’m going to pull and see if I can make them feel more solid and absorb some road noise. When I knock on them, they feel and sound flimsy and hollow. I think once I get them off I’ll see how much room I have to work with.

I will also at some point in the near future take out the diabolical slipstream to add this closed cell foam to the back area and then this phase of the project will be done.

I have been collecting data of each layer of this sound reduction process, so once I get finished I will post up the results of the steps along the way, but so far I have been very pleased with the results, stay tuned.
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Rubi-Zero

Rubi-Zero

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So this morning I decided to pull the door panels. the plastic clips that hold the panel on are no joke you really have to pull hard to get them to pop off. None of them broke, all though they all sounded like it when they finally released. I thought I would have easier access to the skin of the door but I didn’t feel like taking the inner panel off, so maybe for another day.

The front doors have a ton of room between the panels. I put sound deadening material on the inner panel and the back of the interior door panel.
I ran out of the black stuff so I just used silver sound deadening, it’s the same spec just a different color.

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here I placed the closed cell foam I had on both the inner door panel and the interior door panel. This closed cell foam is 8mm thick so if you are using anything thinner you will not have a problem putting the door back on. For me it was a squeeze for tight fit but it went together just fine.
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The rear doors don’t have as much room between panels as the fronts. I did both back side and inner panel as I did the front, but keep in mind the high spots. This created a problem for me trying to squeeze the panels back on, so I had to remove a little bit of the foam on the higher spots and then it went together. It was still a very tight fit and hard to get the clips to go in but I got it on.
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I will record some more data tomorrow morning and see if this made any improvement to reduce some road noise. I was really hoping to get at the door skin but hopefully this will be fine for now. I just have the rear cargo area to put the closed cell foam on and this phase will be done.
 
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Rubi-Zero

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Beer time: For this Saturday afternoon we have this double IPA Phantom Haze from Boulevard brewing Co.
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roaniecowpony

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John,
Following your project here. I have stacks of Kilmat 80 mil butyl and Noico foam. I had been waiting to get a real sound meter. Ended up with a used General DMS20 meter/logger off of ebay. 70 mph on our 405 freeway got a range of about 78-83 dba. Lots of noise around the lower half of the door. Like to know how much that second layer of 80 mil helped.
 

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Rubi-Zero

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John,
Following your project here. I have stacks of Kilmat 80 mil butyl and Noico foam. I had been waiting to get a real sound meter. Ended up with a used General DMS20 meter/logger off of ebay. 70 mph on our 405 freeway got a range of about 78-83 dba. Lots of noise around the lower half of the door. Like to know how much that second layer of 80 mil helped.
Well, I didn’t do a run and get decibel readings of only the one layer, so I can’t give you exact data with readings but after I applied the first layer of deadening material, I was curious if there would be an audible difference in knock with a second layer. To me it seemed there was a big difference so I proceeded with the second layer in the larger areas.
 

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:like::clap::giggle:
I love a good brew....
beer and a big pretzel, doesn’t get much better than that.
I'm always up for good beer. I tend to shy away from the big hoppy stuff, but the malty side is all good for me and the wife. We like the dark side.
dark side beer.jpg


But in the past 20 years, I've come around to some good wines too. A good red with dinner is a treat too.
 

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While I was messing around driving up and down the highway for sound readings, my wife and I both noted the wind noise coming from the upper corner of the windshield. I was out looking at that area this morning. There are some edges sticking up where the top seals to the windshield frame. I was going to tape it up to see if that's the problem. Since I don't take the Freedom panels off regularly, maybe some thick clear film like 3m or Xpel would be a more long term seal of the gap. The door seals look pretty good to me in this area. It has double seals like my GMC.
 

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Zero,

You got any sound readings on the inner state? Looks like you have done a lot of work. How effective was it?
 
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I have decided to go ahead and post some of my sound meter readings because a lot of people have been asking me about it. I am not finished with this project but it has become more of a slower pace at completing since I’m tackle other projects around the house right now.

The sound readings were not taken with a professional sound meter but I just used an app from my iPhone called Decibel X, but it seems to work pretty well and is pretty sensitive in its measures.

In all readings I tried to have it controlled as much as possible and that’s very hard to do with so many variables in play. So to try and keep everything consistent, all the readings were done on the same stretch of Interstate at 70mph, radio off, fan off and no traffic around me. So with Covid-19 going on most of the highways have been traffic free. I was able to take readings without any other cars next to me. I wanted to establish a base reading in an environment that could be replicated again and again.
So that was the idea and the best I could come up with in doing it like this.

So my base readings are from the first two pictures below. I have a soft top, and higher mileage 37’s that probably add to the road noise over someone with a hardtop and newer tires. The first readings would bounce between 80-82 dB. I’m not sure how that compares to anything else or even stock as I don’t have any of that data. But it would be interesting

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These next two are the data recordings after the sound deadening material and closed cell foam on the floor. I still need to do the outer door skin and pull the diabolical slip stream out to lay the closed cell foam in the back cargo area. once I do the back I believe it will reduce the noise just a little bit more. As it is right now, I’m happy with the results so far. Looks like on avg, it is 11bd drop. I can definitely tell the difference in tire noise coming into the cabin and the reduced noise from the engine and transmission on acceleration. By completing the cargo area I’m not sure if it will net more of a db drop but I’m going to do it anyway and be done, but for now this is what I have.

If you have a hardtop and less aggressive tires then I’m sure for you the dB will be much lower.


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?temp_hash=c2ec969850ac4dce0913e644d8216613.jpg
 

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LowBama

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Can u post links to where you bought the close cell foam and MLV?
 

roaniecowpony

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I have decided to go ahead and post some of my sound meter readings because a lot of people have been asking me about it. I am not finished with this project but it has become more of a slower pace at completing since I’m tackle other projects around the house right now.

The sound readings were not taken with a professional sound meter but I just used an app from my iPhone called Decibel X, but it seems to work pretty well and is pretty sensitive in its measures.

In all readings I tried to have it controlled as much as possible and that’s very hard to do with so many variables in play. So to try and keep everything consistent, all the readings were done on the same stretch of Interstate at 70mph, radio off, fan off and no traffic around me. So with Covid-19 going on most of the highways have been traffic free. I was able to take readings without any other cars next to me. I wanted to establish a base reading in an environment that could be replicated again and again.
So that was the idea and the best I could come up with in doing it like this.

So my base readings are from the first two pictures below. I have a soft top, and higher mileage 37’s that probably add to the road noise over someone with a hardtop and newer tires. The first readings would bounce between 80-82 dB. I’m not sure how that compares to anything else or even stock as I don’t have any of that data. But it would be interesting

?temp_hash=c2ec969850ac4dce0913e644d8216613.jpg

?temp_hash=c2ec969850ac4dce0913e644d8216613.jpg


These next two are the data recordings after the sound deadening material and closed cell foam on the floor. I still need to do the outer door skin and pull the diabolical slip stream out to lay the closed cell foam in the back cargo area. once I do the back I believe it will reduce the noise just a little bit more. As it is right now, I’m happy with the results so far. Looks like on avg, it is 11bd drop. I can definitely tell the difference in tire noise coming into the cabin and the reduced noise from the engine and transmission on acceleration. By completing the cargo area I’m not sure if it will net more of a db drop but I’m going to do it anyway and be done, but for now this is what I have.

If you have a hardtop and less aggressive tires then I’m sure for you the dB will be much lower.


?temp_hash=c2ec969850ac4dce0913e644d8216613.jpg


?temp_hash=c2ec969850ac4dce0913e644d8216613.jpg
11 db ! That's HUGE! Great job.

For comparison, I have a hardtop JLUR, BFG K02 33". I measured about the same 80-82 dba with my General Tools DSM20 Data Logger Sound meter, at 70 mph on the 405 freeway. So, I think the iphone meter works well.

I had started my sound control installation a week or so ago. But we got into a heat wave and I ran out of gas after doing just the front passenger door. I disassembled the whole door. It's not hard to take apart. I can do it in about 10-15 mins now. I insulated the inside of the outer door skin with Kilmat 80 and the metal inner panel with Kilmat 50 on the inside of the door cavity. I used Noico Red poly foam on the plastic window mechanism panel and the interior trim panel. This took me a long time to do, but I'm old and arthritic. Had to take a lot of breaks. Still I'd plan for 1 door a day for the first one, maybe 2 a day after that.

I bought all my material from Amazon. I'm using Kilmat instead of Noico. Some articles stated that they smelled some asphalt like odor from the Noico. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=kilmat+80&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
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MockBarbecue82

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I dig your Teraflex & yeti setup. I will keep visiting your thread for the aesthetic brew pics :beer:
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