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Prodigy Performance JL Stage 2 Turbo Kit installed

alphalife9

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Ok. I have committed to regearing. I put $980 down to buy the parts. I’m taking the Jeep in Monday for installation. Labor will be $1000. I flip flopped again and got 4.88 ratio. I did this because I was not impressed enough with my measured results so far. It should be complete by Wednesday. Then we shall see precisely what I got for my money in regearing under these unique circumstances. YOU might want it for rock crawling and extreme off roading or you might want it for straight line acceleration (or you might not want it at all). Turn up your noses if you must because if I wanted max 0-60 I should never have upgraded to 35” tires. I wanted a comprimise between both worlds, Off road and street racing. Stupid? Probably, but that’s what I wanted.
34.4" tires and 4.88 should yield the perfect setup for impressive 0-60 times unless you went with dramatically lighter / smaller diameter tires(15" wheels with drag slicks or something silly like that)

I'm looking forward to seeing the difference once you have the gears in!
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AZDustMuncher

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Ok. I have committed to regearing. I put $980 down to buy the parts. I’m taking the Jeep in Monday for installation. Labor will be $1000. I flip flopped again and got 4.88 ratio. I did this because I was not impressed enough with my measured results so far. It should be complete by Wednesday. Then we shall see precisely what I got for my money in regearing under these unique circumstances. YOU might want it for rock crawling and extreme off roading or you might want it for straight line acceleration (or you might not want it at all). Turn up your noses if you must because if I wanted max 0-60 I should never have upgraded to 35” tires. I wanted a comprimise between both worlds, Off road and street racing. Stupid? Probably, but that’s what I wanted.
I don't have much expectations for my Jeep at the moment when it comes to racing. It's pretty damn slow with the 37's I put on it. The other day I couldn't keep up with loaded down Nissan Frontier with a lawn mower, pile of branches, and a bunch of other garbage in the bed.
 

StingGrayRhino

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Ok. I have committed to regearing. I put $980 down to buy the parts. I’m taking the Jeep in Monday for installation. Labor will be $1000. I flip flopped again and got 4.88 ratio. I did this because I was not impressed enough with my measured results so far. It should be complete by Wednesday. Then we shall see precisely what I got for my money in regearing under these unique circumstances. YOU might want it for rock crawling and extreme off roading or you might want it for straight line acceleration (or you might not want it at all). Turn up your noses if you must because if I wanted max 0-60 I should never have upgraded to 35” tires. I wanted a comprimise between both worlds, Off road and street racing. Stupid? Probably, but that’s what I wanted.
Genius. I think this was a superior move. IMO 90% of wrangler drivers would use the kit just like you explained so we're all really interested in seeing how this turns out. Not only will the 4.88 match what you have but it's a perfect setup if you want to go to 37's one day.

You are going to have one the sickest Jeep setups. We're going to need some videos.
 

XJrider

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Ok. I have committed to regearing. I put $980 down to buy the parts. I’m taking the Jeep in Monday for installation. Labor will be $1000. I flip flopped again and got 4.88 ratio. I did this because I was not impressed enough with my measured results so far. It should be complete by Wednesday. Then we shall see precisely what I got for my money in regearing under these unique circumstances. YOU might want it for rock crawling and extreme off roading or you might want it for straight line acceleration (or you might not want it at all). Turn up your noses if you must because if I wanted max 0-60 I should never have upgraded to 35” tires. I wanted a comprimise between both worlds, Off road and street racing. Stupid? Probably, but that’s what I wanted.
hope he actually does a proper break in of the gears prior to stomping on it 0-60. Lol
 

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jimlove9771

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34.4" tires and 4.88 should yield the perfect setup for impressive 0-60 times unless you went with dramatically lighter / smaller diameter tires(15" wheels with drag slicks or something silly like that)

I'm looking forward to seeing the difference once you have the gears in!
With a little more experience I was able to refine my shifting and managed a 5.51s 0-60 with a 14.23 quarter. The regearing should definitely prove valuable. Certainly expect the 0-60 time to break the 5.00s barrier.
 
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jimlove9771

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H
34.4" tires and 4.88 should yield the perfect setup for impressive 0-60 times unless you went with dramatically lighter / smaller diameter tires(15" wheels with drag slicks or something silly like that)

I'm looking forward to seeing the difference once you have the gears in!
Holy crap, just took a close look at the 1/4 mi results and noticed that I mistakenly let off on the gas prior to completion. Must have been worried about running out of room. See how my speed and acceleration dropped off after 1000ft. Got to try again tomorrow. Looks like I should be down into the low 13’s!!
 

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Ok. I have committed to regearing. I put $980 down to buy the parts. I’m taking the Jeep in Monday for installation. Labor will be $1000. I flip flopped again and got 4.88 ratio. I did this because I was not impressed enough with my measured results so far. It should be complete by Wednesday. Then we shall see precisely what I got for my money in regearing under these unique circumstances. YOU might want it for rock crawling and extreme off roading or you might want it for straight line acceleration (or you might not want it at all). Turn up your noses if you must because if I wanted max 0-60 I should never have upgraded to 35” tires. I wanted a comprimise between both worlds, Off road and street racing. Stupid? Probably, but that’s what I wanted.
Who’s doing your gears? Wish I had seen this sooner. Started a small Jeep and fab shop out at my place. Already regeared my JLUR and keeping it small and low key. Could’ve saved you several hundred. It’s my way to sema 2019 and not to put food on the table

Brett
 

CoolTech

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op - Hat's off to you for all of your pioneering work and sharing the results. Good that you are enjoying this project and that's the best point! I don't want to rain on your parade but I just wonder if you've had any additional tuning or data-logging done since the original A/F graph you posted. Honestly, the A/F graph was pretty horrible - and a demonstration that either there was very poor tune in the car or, more concerning, the granularity of control over the ECU by the tuner was far from perfect. Two things in particular not to like in that graph was how rich the Jeep was running and how the A/F's were trailing upwards in the higher RPM. An ideal graph (and what is commonly achieved by the OEMs) is a flat stable A/F somewhere in the 11.5 to 12.2 range - depending on the engine. Also, you'd like to eliminate any tendencies for A/F' to trail upward.

I know that everyone is on a budget, but you'd be VERY well served to install a means to datalog your A/F's. In many ways, street tuning can be a viable way of dialing a tune in (as long as your are careful and methodical) - and you can avoid additional dyno costs. Before even contemplating tuning, you just need to assure yourself that the tune you are using is solid and is going to give many smiles long into the future. There are many more paths to hell than there are to heaven.... aka - the devil is in the details.
 

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FlyByU

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He mentioned a revised tune being sent and amen to all of the above. The tune is so important, Ill start with the canned tune but will be custom tuned within days if my install.
 
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jimlove9771

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op - Hat's off to you for all of your pioneering work and sharing the results. Good that you are enjoying this project and that's the best point! I don't want to rain on your parade but I just wonder if you've had any additional tuning or data-logging done since the original A/F graph you posted. Honestly, the A/F graph was pretty horrible - and a demonstration that either there was very poor tune in the car or, more concerning, the granularity of control over the ECU by the tuner was far from perfect. Two things in particular not to like in that graph was how rich the Jeep was running and how the A/F's were trailing upwards in the higher RPM. An ideal graph (and what is commonly achieved by the OEMs) is a flat stable A/F somewhere in the 11.5 to 12.2 range - depending on the engine. Also, you'd like to eliminate any tendencies for A/F' to trail upward.

I know that everyone is on a budget, but you'd be VERY well served to install a means to datalog your A/F's. In many ways, street tuning can be a viable way of dialing a tune in (as long as your are careful and methodical) - and you can avoid additional dyno costs. Before even contemplating tuning, you just need to assure yourself that the tune you are using is solid and is going to give many smiles long into the future. There are many more paths to hell than there are to heaven.... aka - the devil is in the details.
That’s a pretty scathing put down of the tune provided to me by Prodigy Performance. I have passed it on to [email protected]. He is the owner, designer of the turbo kit and tuner of this project and for all others who purchase the kit. If you are correct I should be very disappointed with these results and demand improvement. He has issued a new tune but he told me that all he changed was to retard the timing slightly because the anti knock sensor was already directing the ecu to do that.

I even mentioned to him that it seemed very rich but he ignored it. I am a veritable novice in these matters and have to depend on the “experts”.

I am installing a guage package but it doesn’t data log. I am still closely aligned with my installer who has done several data logging drives of the car and provided them to Prodigy. Do you have any suggestions as to how I should proceed to get the best tune possible for my build?
 

CoolTech

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Jim - thanks for the PM and I responded to you via email. For public consumption, in no way did I intend my comments to be a "scathing put-down" of Wes or the fine folks at Prodigy. Let's give them the benefit of the doubt as I super - respect the undoubtedly big investment they've made to bring a performance kit to market! Way too easy for us to sit here in our glass houses and throw rocks and that wasn't the intention. That said, the A/F curve that you published definitely looked like a work-in-progress and to all those with an experienced eye toward forced induction tuning, I believe they would agree. As I said, I hope that the subsequent tunes you may have received are improvements to what was shown. As an early adopter, I simply believe it would behoove you to have a means to occasionally check/validate your AF's as that is what will keep your engine safe.
 
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jimlove9771

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Actually I read the documentation on my soon to be installed GlowShift wideband AFR gauge and it says it has a 0-5v output allowing it to de connected to virtually any data logging or engine management system. But I don’t know what to do with it.
 

porcusRex

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for logging, you need to connect to a logging device (laptop in most cases) and the logging device needs to also be attached to the device controlling the engine (HP tuner device).

for an example of a wideband with the ability to connect to a PC, look at innovate. There is a cable that connects to the innovate wideband probe that has a serial (old school) cable that plugs into a pc. in my instance, my cobb access port has a odbd2 to usb cable. that connects to the pc and the innovate wideband connects to the pc and then i log the ecu data and the wideband and the software i use will plot then on the same graph.

note that i decided to tune my car myself. it was already a turbo car, there were a million maps to start with and my car was way out of warranty. so the risk were less than a new car, and converting from NA to turbo.

you have the HP tuners stuff so im sure there are parts you can add to bring all of this stuff together to simply log (not tune). i looked at your choice of wideband and it has a simple wire that outputs voltage variations. im not sure how you would integrate that with any logging device without cobbling up some sort of device to output signals to a interface compatible with your logging device.

tuning (obviously) is not for the faint of heart. i've seen pro tuners blow up a brand new 13,000$ custom race motor while tuning on the dyno. Also a dyno tune needs to be taken out and driven and logged in real driving conditions (up a hill went its hot, long interstate steady state and simply driving around town).
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