PRICING HELP - SUSPENSION/SHOCKS/GEARS/WHEELS/TIRES

[2Wheel-Lee]

Why Metal Cloak or RK? How do you compare them over Superlift with kings....?

While King shocks are generally highly regarded, Superlift products are generally considered as bottom of the barrel stuff. There are a lot of brands with better reputations (but can't really think of one with worse).

They're quoting you for 15 hours labor for a gear swap? Is this their first time doing a gear swap?

Ultimately it's your choice. Most of your items appear to be purely based on mall-crawler looks over function, so if that's an accurate assessment have at it. In that case, if you have a Rubicon, don't bother with the regear.

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[OnlyOne]

Are you sure? Do you already have a turbo with 37’s and 20 inch rims with a 4” lift?

Yes. I run 37's at 7000 ft and don't notice them.

 

[Arrowhead]

Lift height does not necessarily dictate driveshaft replacement. Droop does. Generally, front shocks with more than about 29" of extended length should have a new front shaft. No real need for a rear shaft.

True, but what's the point of putting on a 4" lift if you are going to stunt it with short shocks? And yes no rear driveshaft on a 4dr, but 2dr I'm sure. I forgot, not all the world has a 2dr.

 

[AnnDee4444]

Lift height does not necessarily dictate driveshaft replacement. Droop does. Generally, front shocks with more than about 29" of extended length should have a new front shaft. No real need for a rear shaft.

True, but what's the point of putting on a 4" lift if you are going to stunt it with short shocks? And yes no rear driveshaft on a 4dr, but 2dr I'm sure. I forgot, not all the world has a 2dr.

Any idea what the max rear shock length would be for a 2-door (with factory driveshaft)?

 

[Loki Kai]

3" lift with 37x13.50r17

Just for reference my 2500 in the background has 37X12.50r20 with 4" lift.

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

Any idea what the max rear shock length would be for a 2-door (with factory driveshaft)?

Sorry, no idea. The 29" number I mentioned was a general recommendation I've seen posted by a number of knowledgeable people, so it's not a number I actually know. However, in my experimenting with stuff, it's about the point where the driveshaft starts contacting that flange on the transfer case side (sorry, hard to explain).

 

[2Wheel-Lee]

True, but what's the point of putting on a 4" lift if you are going to stunt it with short shocks? And yes no rear driveshaft on a 4dr, but 2dr I'm sure. I forgot, not all the world has a 2dr.

The front shocks that EVO uses on their 4.5" lift are just under 29", if I recall correctly (same as their 3.5" kits).
By the way, when it comes to the front driveshaft, it doesn't know if it's a 2dr or 4dr. You'll note that I was only commenting on the front.

Aside from the driveshaft, I would have some reluctance running much longer than 29" in the front with standard front arm length, as the short arms put the axle in a rather compromised position that may cause damage under certain forward moving conditions fully drooped.

 

[Arrowhead]

You'll note that I was only commenting on the front.

Guess I don't know how to read then:

No real need for a rear shaft.

 

[Rploaded]

A few pics of 17” wheels and tires.

I agree, with the 2.0 I would not regear on 37’s.

 

[JEEP-WRANGLER-JL-NOOB]

I went with a RKS 3.5 and kings with 37 TOYO open country RT with 20” x 12.5 -18 offset...black rhino armory. I’ll post photos when it’s done.

 

[Old Jeeper]

Price all the parts yourself and see what deals you can get. Then shop labor so you can see what’s possible.

I would also reconsider a wheel that size. Stay with a 17” rim is my opinion.

X 2

 

[CreepyCrepe]

Yes. I run 37's at 7000 ft and don't notice them.

Whoa, that's way more than a 4" lift. What brand? Did you have to relevel your headlights?

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