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Agent47

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Here's mine. The dealership wrote down the wrong mileage on the service records when they changed the oil the first time, so actual mileage on this oil is less than 6k. Somewhere between 5.5k and 6k.

This oil sample was taken during the second oil change.

OIL_change2.png
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FUHL

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How much was the analysis?
 

Chrissalexx

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For $28, that’s a steal and price of mind. Will definitely order prior to my first oil change. Currently at 1400 miles
 

srt20

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IMO, its pointless to do a UOA before 20K miles or more. Before that you get silicone, copper, iron, etc that are all high values because of it being new.
Wait til 20k or so, establish a baseline and you can keep an eye on it every so often from there.
 

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Germansheperd

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According to that report that interval may be too long?
 

WashParkJeep

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Here's mine from the first oil change at 1,400 miles. Viscosity was a little low and some fuel which is strange because I did the oil change after a day of running errands. Guess this will give me a good baseline.

JeepAnalysis.png
 

DanW

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I think this is a good first report. First, Pennzoil Platinum is known to be on the thin side to begin with and there is strong suspicion that Pennzoil is the factory fill. Fuel dilution, which is normal and expected in a direct injected engine will thin an oil even more. So it has thinned to a 20 weight, which is fine. That scenario is exactly why they require 5w30 in that engine as opposed to the 3.6 which will not shear or thin the oil like a DI engine.

I have a Ford 3.5 Ecoboost that does the same thing, diluting the oil with fuel and thinning it. The oil comes out as a 20 weight at the end of each oil change interval.

While the Pennzoil starts out thin, it is still easily up to the task of handling what that engine throws its way, so if you go that route, I wouldn't worry at all about it. You can also try Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and see what it does, but I'd run any Pennzoil Platinum product and be confident in it. (Or any other premium brand full synthetic 5w30. I tend to prefer Mobil 1 EP or AP, but that's a whole other discussion.)
 

OnlyOne

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SN+ Rated oil in 5w30. Lspi protection is what you need, which PP and mobil1 is. I run Amsoil signature in both my new Ranger ecoboost and my turbo JLR.
 

400kGC

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Changing the oil in my 4.7L V8 WJ every 5k with Mobil 1 full synthetic. 400k+ miles. No need for an oil analysis, just ball joints every 100k
 

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DanW

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Changing the oil in my 4.7L V8 WJ every 5k with Mobil 1 full synthetic. 400k+ miles. No need for an oil analysis, just ball joints every 100k
What year is your WJ? Man, that gives me great hope! My son and I bought an 04 with the 4.7 with 103k on it. It currently has Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 in it, but at 4500 we're moving to Mobil 1 High Mileage and will change every 5k, as you do. I love the engine, so it is good to hear about one that is going the distance and then some! Ours is in pretty good shape. It was literally driven by a little old lady. She had the oil changed every 3k with whatever 5w30 dino oil her garage was using. It runs great and pulls strong.
 

400kGC

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What year is your WJ? Man, that gives me great hope! My son and I bought an 04 with the 4.7 with 103k on it. It currently has Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 in it, but at 4500 we're moving to Mobil 1 High Mileage and will change every 5k, as you do. I love the engine, so it is good to hear about one that is going the distance and then some! Ours is in pretty good shape. It was literally driven by a little old lady. She had the oil changed every 3k with whatever 5w30 dino oil her garage was using. It runs great and pulls strong.
Only 103k is a great find. Mine is a 2003 Limited. Have had to replace a few things here and there. Rear axle shaft seal (<$10), rear upper ball joint that bolts on top of the rear differential, some u joints, shocks. I drive 5 miles of dirt road a day so that stuff is inevitable, but the engine runs like a top with new plugs every 30k, cleaning throttle body and IAC, regular maintenance.
 

Revolution_322

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Changing the oil in my 4.7L V8 WJ every 5k with Mobil 1 full synthetic. 400k+ miles. No need for an oil analysis, just ball joints every 100k
My 4.0 has 200k and still runs like a sowing machine. Do you have the Ho or the standard?
 

Foggy47

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I worked as a sales rep for a large oil analysis lab that did these oil tests on wear metals and more. It was interesting to watch the routine number suddenly predict a catastrophic imminent failure.....espeically in aircraft and HD road machinery. Most times the wear metals would go off the charts when a big problem was coming about. Easy to to spot those. Filters mean allot in oil testing ......and analysis. Still....ordinary common sense goes a long way. I dont waste m money on testing oil.....unless I were to suspect a major issue. At least not on automobiles. Aircraft or spendy 'chinery.....may be another story. ;)
 

Avar928

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upload_2020-3-24_18-24-30.png


Seems like everyone is getting some high fuel % in their oil. Anyone shed some light what I can look at or is it just a common thing of no concern?

Noted, I did use BG44K system cleaner in the tank before dropping the oil. I ran through a tank and half so it should have mostly cleared through. Mods are the Mishimoto IC pipe and GFB DV+.

EDIT ADD:

After some research this doesn't seem to be that concerning. I'll lower my interval to 6,000mi the next time and see if that made a difference.
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