Plug and Play amp upgrade to basic system

Volbut32

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OK, I had to turn the gain down and the hissing is gone. Sounds awesome.

I don't see how to connect the sub without some type of LOC. I spliced the RCAs from the amp to the sub out on the t harness and the sub in on the main harness. I'm either doing it wrong or it can't be done this way. I'm open to trying something else if any has an idea.

I have a LOC coming Friday so I'll just go that route if needed and tap the rear speaker wires before they hit the KTU 445.
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Liberty0rDeath

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OK, I had to turn the gain down and the hissing is gone. Sounds awesome.

I don't see how to connect the sub without some type of LOC. I spliced the RCAs from the amp to the sub out on the t harness and the sub in on the main harness. I'm either doing it wrong or it can't be done this way. I'm open to trying something else if any has an idea.

I have a LOC coming Friday so I'll just go that route if needed and tap the rear speaker wires before they hit the KTU 445.
For the power, I noticed you said you checked your spliced wires. Did you splice into the head unit off the t-harness, or into your sub wires? I don’t have a powered sub and my only way to power the KTU is either run a power cable or back up the main harness to the head unit (you’ve obviously seen that the yellow battery cable and black ground are at the end of the main harness not where it ties into the t-harness). What did you end up doing?
 

Volbut32

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I used a wire tap on the original factory harness (the one you will initially pull from the head unit). Varilux has a good pic of it in the first post. It's the red wire with the yellow tracer. You can pick these up just about anywhere. An auto parts store will probably be your best bet for something local.

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Liberty0rDeath

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I’m clear on splicing, just wanted clarification on if you used the hot and ground cable from the main harness?
 

Volbut32

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Sorry, I read it wrong. Yea I used the yellow and black connections on the harness
 
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Varilux

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Glad you managed to get all hooked up and things are sounding good. Also, it's great information for anyone else using the T-Harness and Main Harness to know that- if they do not already have power under the seat (or wherever they're putting the KTP-445U), they'll need to tap the power and ground from the factory harness. Well, actually, you could grab the ground from wherever you like, but tying into the ground for the radio just makes sense.

For others doing this install, if you do already have a powered sub under your front seat, you could just power the KTP-445U with that power supply. Alpine apparently designed the PSS-23WRA system- from which these harnesses are coming- with the KTP being hooked up under the seat using power from the sub (this is why the power/ground feed is so short and located on the KTP side instead of the factory harness side).

Regarding the LOC... In my installation, I noticed the T-Harness has a plug labeled "Sub-Out" that contains 4 brown wires. I originally used these wires as speaker level inputs for my sub, but I could only get very limited volume out of the sub. Then I thought about it overnight and realized these were probably low powered signals meant to be connected to RCA jacks. When I took the four brown wires and put RCA plugs at the end (you can get the RCA plugs just about anywhere- I think even Walmart carries them online), the sub worked perfectly. I will note that- again in my instance- I found only ONE of the RCA plugs was producing a signal to my sub (I can completely disconnect the other RCA and it makes no difference- also makes no difference which channel I hook the RCA plug into). I happen to still have speaker level feeds (which are spliced in at a point before the amp), and switching back and forth there is very little difference in the sound (in fact, using the RCA input seems a bit better, so that's the way I've left it).

Glad you're pleased with the end result. Yes, you have to turn the gain almost the whole way down, and it STILL gives you tons of clear volume. Paired with a powered sub, my audio now brings a smile to my face when I turn the volume up to 18 or so (and this is with a soft top with the rear windows removed :^)!
 
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Volbut32

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I agree, 20 is about all you need on the volume. Very clear and crisp. LOC is coming tomorrow so I'm looking forward to filling in the low end. I'm assuming the rear will be purple or green. Which side of the harness should I grab the signal from?
 
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Varilux

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I agree, 20 is about all you need on the volume. Very clear and crisp. LOC is coming tomorrow so I'm looking forward to filling in the low end. I'm assuming the rear will be purple or green. Which side of the harness should I grab the signal from?
Ah, you're planning on feeding speaker level feeds into an LOC and then use an RCA cable to connect the sub (sorry, for some reason that didn't click until just now).

You could directly connect to an RCA cable (if you either snip the wires or have a pigtail RCA adapter) directly to the brown wires at the end of the main harness and then plug into your sub. However, if you are feeding into a LOC, you'll want to tap into the speaker level wires going IN to the amp- not out. The reason being the amp has a hi-pass filter that will truncate the signal your subwoofer needs to see to thump. According to the manual, it looks like the "IN" side is the one with the gain controls- so that's the side you want to tap into. The wires you want appear to be green (+ rear left) and green/black (- rear left) and violet (+ rear right) and violet/black (- rear right).
 

Volbut32

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Thanks for the info. I tried the brown wires and couldn't get it to work so I'm going the LOC route. I'll post an update after I get done. Appreciate you.
 

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Hi Everyone, I wanted to thank the great work started by @Varilux and @emgeesea and confirm that they are absolutely right. Thanks guys!! You CAN hack your own much cheaper version of the PSS-23WRA by getting separate parts from Pac Parts, Amazon, and Crutchfield, saving you over $425 off the current price for the bundle. It is not exactly the same because there are some parts you can't buy (like the speaker harness for the 1" tweeters and maybe the plug and play speaker connectors), but for that amount of savings, it is well worth a little creativity and splicing. Still not installed, but I have all the parts and more. All in, I was able to get all the PSS-23WRA parts at $875 total, potentially even including a few things I didn't need, but won't find out until installation. In an effort to contribute to others achieving this, I wanted to post detailed part number and cost information I put together. Hope this helps others! Will let you know how it sounds once installed!

AlpineSPR-10TW1-inch Silk Ring Dome Car Audio Component Tweeters (Pair)
$116.95​
AlpinePWE-S8Restyle Compact Powered 8-Inch Subwoofer
$293.95​
AlpineKTP-445UUniversal Power Pack Amplifier
$174.99​
Main Components Subtotal
$585.89​
PacParts
Alpine820SVV90ZUD-WKUQVT-Harness
$42.86​
Alpine820SVV90ZUD-PQKUQVMain Harness
$42.86​
Alpine820SVV90ZUD-SZUFEOPower Cable
$42.86​
Alpine820SVV90ZUD-UFDDGSWRCA Adapter Cables
$42.86​
Alpine820SVX-ENW-MO-O-SWVPWE Left Bracket
$42.86​
Alpine820SVX-ENW-MO-U-SWVPWE RIght Barcket
$42.86​
PacParts Subtotal
$257.16​
AmazonNot even sure I need these yet:
Metra72-6514 (QTY = 4)Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicles
$8.27​
Install BayBS9 - 10Back Strap Metal 9 Inch 10 Pack
$23.84​
Other Subtotal
$32.11​
TOTAL COST PRE-TAX
$875.16​
Savings
$423.84​

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iniezen

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I was able to apply the savings to completing the system by getting the following parts as a full replacement of all speakers. Added 6.5" alpines and 1 additional set of R type tweeters for the soundbar, and the same for the knee panel and front of the car. Below are the part numbers and prices for the 6.5" speakers and adapters for soundbar and knee panel. As soon as I install it, I will report how it sounds.
Alpine (4 Total)R-S65.2R-Series 6 1/2-inch Coaxial 2-Way Speakers ($199.95 each)
$399.90​
SSV WorksJJT-SA0656-1/2" soundbar speaker adapters for Jeep Wranger (JL)
$99.99​
MetraJP-1014Jeep Speaker Pods Knee Panel
$59.99​
 
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Varilux

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I was able to apply the savings to completing the system by getting the following parts as a full replacement of all speakers. Added 6.5" alpines and 1 additional set of R type tweeters for the soundbar, and the same for the knee panel and front of the car. Below are the part numbers and prices for the 6.5" speakers and adapters for soundbar and knee panel. As soon as I install it, I will report how it sounds.
Alpine (4 Total)R-S65.2R-Series 6 1/2-inch Coaxial 2-Way Speakers ($199.95 each)
$399.90​
SSV WorksJJT-SA0656-1/2" soundbar speaker adapters for Jeep Wranger (JL)
$99.99​
MetraJP-1014Jeep Speaker Pods Knee Panel
$59.99​
You're going to replace the knee panel speakers? Dude! Any desire I had to do that evaporated when I received the "master sheet" from Crutchfield and the instructions for changing the knee panel speakers went on for THREE PAGES!

Could you do me a favor? Could you install the knee panel speakers last and tell us if there is a noticeable difference? If there really is, I may bite the bullet and dive into this on a long weekend. I mean, I'm happy with my sound now, but those two knee speakers are the only ones I haven't upgraded, so- if it really makes an impact why the heck not (okay, I'll admit it- working from home for 3+ months now has me stir crazy to just keep doing stuff to the Jeep- but I've run out of things to do :^). The only other thing I kinda wish I had was a DSP unit (which the Kicker amp someone mentioned on this thread has- if I hadn't already installed the Alpine amp I'd be tempted to use the Kicker). The Bass, Mid, Treble equalizer on the stock head unit just doesn't provide a lot of options to tune the equalization. I think I have it about where it needs to be, but I know a DSP would improve things.
 

iniezen

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You're going to replace the knee panel speakers? Dude! Any desire I had to do that evaporated when I received the "master sheet" from Crutchfield and the instructions for changing the knee panel speakers went on for THREE PAGES!

Could you do me a favor? Could you install the knee panel speakers last and tell us if there is a noticeable difference? If there really is, I may bite the bullet and dive into this on a long weekend. I mean, I'm happy with my sound now, but those two knee speakers are the only ones I haven't upgraded, so- if it really makes an impact why the heck not (okay, I'll admit it- working from home for 3+ months now has me stir crazy to just keep doing stuff to the Jeep- but I've run out of things to do :^). The only other thing I kinda wish I had was a DSP unit (which the Kicker amp someone mentioned on this thread has- if I hadn't already installed the Alpine amp I'd be tempted to use the Kicker). The Bass, Mid, Treble equalizer on the stock head unit just doesn't provide a lot of options to tune the equalization. I think I have it about where it needs to be, but I know a DSP would improve things.
I have to make a shameful admission: I will likely pay a shop to install this. It would take me forever as I suck at these things.
 

Volbut32

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I replace the knee panel speakers with some Focal 6.5s. I did it after I replaced the dash and soundbar speakers. I figured if I was going to go through the rest plus amp them I might as well. In for a penny , in for pound right? I had the passenger side mostly apart anyway running wires for the sub amp and the KTU so I was half way there anyway.

Honestly, it wasn't that bad. Took about an hour and half. If it's in your budget, you'll be happy you did it afterwards IMO.
 
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Varilux

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I replace the knee panel speakers with some Focal 6.5s. I did it after I replaced the dash and soundbar speakers. I figured if I was going to go through the rest plus amp them I might as well. In for a penny , in for pound right? I had the passenger side mostly apart anyway running wires for the sub amp and the KTU so I was half way there anyway.
Honestly, it wasn't that bad. Took about an hour and half. If it's in your budget, you'll be happy you did it afterwards IMO.
Man, you were supposed to say "It really didn't make that much difference!" What would you say the most noticeable difference was?

I've always scratched my head regarding the placement of those speakers, because they are basically pointing into the seat front. I have 6.5" speakers in the kick panels of my '65 Mustang, and I can hardly hear from from the driver's seat (even though my feet can definitely feel the tunes :^). Putting two 4" speakers (the Mopar Kickers, actually) up in the center dash made a night and day difference! Does the Metra pod tilt the speakers just a bit upwards to better direct the sound?

Anyway, of course I'm eventually going to give in and just get them now (because you're right- in for a penny..., plus I'm just always Jonesing to spend some time in the garage). You DO realize when I get halfway through this and have half the dash laying around a hot garage I'm going to repeatedly quote you (in a sarcastic voice) "Honestly, it wasn't all that bad." :CWL:

iniezen said:
I have to make a shameful admission: I will likely pay a shop to install this. It would take me forever as I suck at these things.
My friend there is no shame in delegation! I have two big branches leaning on my roof that- 5 years ago- would have had me scrambling up to the roof with a chainsaw. These days, I'll call some guy with more energy (and probably better chainsaw skills :^) to take care of it while I consume Cuba Libres on my hammock! :like:
 
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