Ordering a 2022 Rubicon for the First Time. Who can help answer a few questions?

[Iggy]

Was my first pick until they axed it

I drove from Carson City to La Porte, IN (2,005 miles) to buy it because it is a discontinued color and was full color (body, fenders, top). That was a trip! But every time I see it... smile!!

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[alksion]

I drove from Carson City to La Porte, IN (2,005 miles) to buy it because it is a discontinued color and was full color (body, fenders, top). That was a trip! But every time I see it... smile!!

Yeah a local dealer has a diesel in nacho but they want 66K for it. Rather just spend the money on a 392.

 

[alksion]

Thank you everyone for your help. I was able to snag an allocation for a 392 Hydro blue fully loaded for MSRP. I have the VIN and it’s currently in D status. Should be ready by the end of July at the latest but could be sooner. Beyond excited.

 

[gato]

Yeah I won’t let 4Hi auto deter me from getting a diesel. It’s next to useless most of the time but when traveling to and from big bear and mammoth mountains (which I frequent a lot) it would be nice to have!

Actually, one of the biggest advantage of having the Auto 4WD option is realized off road. Because 4WD Auto Wranglers have a constant velocity (CV) joint (similar to RCV axles), you don't have all the bind and kip and bouncing when navigating the rocks and other obstacles.

In addition it turns much better, with less binding in 4Hi, 4Lo, and even with front lockers than the standard U-joint axle.

 

[alksion]

Actually, one of the biggest advantage of having the Auto 4WD option is realized off road. Because 4WD Auto Wranglers have a constant velocity (CV) joint (similar to RCV axles), you don't have all the bind and kip and bouncing when navigating the rocks and other obstacles.

In addition it turns much better, with less binding in 4Hi, 4Lo, and even with front lockers than the standard U-joint axle.

Well that’s perfect because I went with a 392 so I will be getting that by default.

 

[Blanco802]

Thank you everyone for your help. I was able to snag an allocation for a 392 Hydro blue fully loaded for MSRP. I have the VIN and it’s currently in D status. Should be ready by the end of July at the latest but could be sooner. Beyond excited.

Congrats!

 

[Raybone]

I'll answer some specific questions.

1) If you want an AEV JL, you have 2 options:
a) Order from an AEV dealer for one-stop shopping. Your new JL will be built in Toledo, then drop shipped to AEV in Wixom, MI (one day via truck). Approximately 6-8 weeks later (could take more time now), AEV will ship your new AEV JL back to the dealer. (I had a 2013 AEV JK350 built this way.)

Look for participating Jeep AEV dealerships here: https://www.aev-conversions.com/map/

If you really want an AEV JL, you most likely won't get the killer deals like 7-8% below invoice pricing. Negotiate hard on the JL; AEV doesn't discount its packages.

b) Order from a non-AEV dealer, ship/drive your new JL to AEV, then have it shipped back to you or pick it up in MI. (I'll have to go this route because I'm waiting for their full-width front bumper to be released June/July, then I'll go for the JL350 package.)

4) Due to your short commute, the diesel may not be a good fit for you. But, only you know best how you'll use your JL--and it's your money.

5) Not an engineer, but it's likely some kind of combination of the 3.0's engine torque and standard Rubicon 4:1 transfer case making it a no-go. (The crawl ratio is already insane--in a good way--with that combination anyway--I like rocks.)

6) I'd use a good local tire shop for 37s. Dealer would only rip you off.

7) Make sure all fuses are seated. If you get the diesel, insure the DEF tank's completely full--the gauge is fairly inaccurate and may show it's full when in reality it isn't.

Great information from a reliable friend!

 

[johngalt312]

I'll answer some specific questions.

1) If you want an AEV JL, you have 2 options:
a) Order from an AEV dealer for one-stop shopping. Your new JL will be built in Toledo, then drop shipped to AEV in Wixom, MI (one day via truck). Approximately 6-8 weeks later (could take more time now), AEV will ship your new AEV JL back to the dealer. (I had a 2013 AEV JK350 built this way.)

Look for participating Jeep AEV dealerships here: https://www.aev-conversions.com/map/

If you really want an AEV JL, you most likely won't get the killer deals like 7-8% below invoice pricing. Negotiate hard on the JL; AEV doesn't discount its packages.

b) Order from a non-AEV dealer, ship/drive your new JL to AEV, then have it shipped back to you or pick it up in MI. (I'll have to go this route because I'm waiting for their full-width front bumper to be released June/July, then I'll go for the JL350 package.)

4) Due to your short commute, the diesel may not be a good fit for you. But, only you know best how you'll use your JL--and it's your money.

5) Not an engineer, but it's likely some kind of combination of the 3.0's engine torque and standard Rubicon 4:1 transfer case making it a no-go. (The crawl ratio is already insane--in a good way--with that combination anyway--I like rocks.)

6) I'd use a good local tire shop for 37s. Dealer would only rip you off.

7) Make sure all fuses are seated. If you get the diesel, insure the DEF tank's completely full--the gauge is fairly inaccurate and may show it's full when in reality it isn't.

It was shocking the number of loose fuses - I’d estimate over 80%.

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