Options for front axle shafts

[CarbonSteel]

I’m not worried about the metal composition of the intermediate shaft. It’s usually the yoke or U Joints that break first. Just need to find a shop to make a bronze/copper bushing.

I am not overly concerned, but I want to know what it is made of before I invest in it further. I am also looking for a shop to machine the bushing.

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[CarbonSteel]

I’m wondering if East Coast Gear Supply would be interested in making a bronze bushing for the Dana set. They make a similar product for Tacomas.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

I'll ping Will and see. He would have some insight in the dimensions since they sell both RCV and DS axles.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I'll ping Will and see. He would have some insight in the dimensions since they sell both RCV and DS axles.

We should also ask the forum if there are any machinists here who could make one if the material was supplied. I have a few back in Texas that I can check with as well.

 

[CarbonSteel]

@Spencer - took a minute to look at the OEM intermediate shaft to see what we are working with.

The bushing popped out using hand pressure on a rod with the cavity filled with grease so it is a minimal press fit. I could not pry it out with a screwdriver, nicked the edge in the process.

This works in our favor because the wall thickness is about 2.5mm on the plastic bushing and because the OD of the DS nipple is a bit larger, the wall thickness of the bronze bushing will be even thinner so not needing a tight press fit is best.

The ID of the bushing socket in the shaft is about 20.55mm and the OD of the bushing face is about 30mm so 1.25" OD bronze rod stock should be large enough to machine.

Now we need the OD of the DS nipple to finalize the "design".

 

[BadA$$Rubi]

There is a plastic bushing within the inner passenger shaft that (can be) too small for the outer passenger shaft nipple to go inside. Dana says that it should, but on my install it would not. The shop pulled the bushing (big mistake and they should have known better) and this leaves a large cavity with zero support for the nipple.

The next thing that happens is the shafts bind and you essentially have "FAD delete" because the axles and front driveshaft turn all the time--even in 2H.

@Spencer - if you decide to sell the DS 10044459 shafts, I would be interested in them.

@Spencer - took a minute to look at the OEM intermediate shaft to see what we are working with.

The bushing popped out using hand pressure on a rod with the cavity filled with grease so it is a minimal press fit. I could not pry it out with a screwdriver, nicked the edge in the process.

This works in our favor because the wall thickness is about 2.5mm on the plastic bushing and because the OD of the DS nipple is a bit larger, the wall thickness of the bronze bushing will be even thinner so not having a tight press fit is best.

The ID of the bushing socket in the shaft is about 20.55mm and the OD of the bushing face is about 30mm so 1.25" OD bronze rod stock should be large enough to machine.

Now we need the ID of the DS nipple to finalize the "design".

I’m afraid the wall thickness of the new custom bushing will be too thin to accommodate the stub of the DS shaft.
What if we made a bronze bushing with duplicate dimensions as the plastic bushing and finish grind the stub of the DS shaft??

 

[CarbonSteel]

I’m afraid the wall thickness of the new custom bushing will be too thin to accommodate the stub of the DS shaft.
What if we made a bronze bushing with duplicate dimensions as the plastic bushing and finish grind the stub of the DS shaft??

My only concern there is what if the nipple is hardened or heat treated. You will lose that in the machining.

It does make sense that no bushing would be needed, but I am also guessing the replacement "FAD delete" collar is what is supporting the ends of the shafts as opposed to the nipple and bushing with the OEM shafts.

 

[BadA$$Rubi]

My only concern there is what if the nipple is hardened or heat treated. You will lose that in the machining.

It does make sense that no bushing would be needed, but I am also guessing the replacement "FAD delete" collar is what is supporting the ends of the shafts as opposed to the nipple and bushing with the OEM shafts.

I respect your concern about the hardness but the stub end of that shaft is not seeing any load other than the weight of itself being supported in the meeting intermediate shaft. If you would lose hardness in the process of finish grinding, so what?

 

[CarbonSteel]

I respect your concern about the hardness but the stub end of that shaft is not seeing any load other than the weight of itself being supported in the meeting intermediate shaft. If you would lose hardness in the process of finish grinding, so what?

Yeah, it may not be a big deal at all, but with that said, here is what the DS nipple looked like after a few hundred miles of being ran with no bushing in the intermediate shaft. There is quite a bit of galling on the nipple.

My shafts were bound and were turning all of the time including the front driveshaft in 2H. Now did this happen due to Jeep Slop Shop's incompetence? I tend to lean that way.

I should have fit the two together while I had them, but at that point I was so frustrated with the cost and incompetence, I sold them to a local guy who did not care about the galling.

EDIT - to your point though, machining the nipple to fit the plastic bushing is light years easier than building a new bushing (if one can even be built).

 

[Spencer]

DANAs delete kit includes a new bushing. Wonder if it’s the same size as the OEM?

https://www.quadratec.com/p/dana-sp...m_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organicshopping

 

[BadA$$Rubi]

Yeah, it may not be a big deal at all, but with that said, here is what the DS nipple looked like after a few hundred miles of being ran with no bushing in the intermediate shaft. There is quite a bit of galling on the nipple.

My shafts were bound and were turning all of the time including the front driveshaft in 2H. Now did this happen due to Jeep Slop Shop's incompetence? I tend to lean that way.

I should have fit the two together while I had them, but at that point I was so frustrated with the cost and incompetence, I sold them to a local guy who did not care about the galling.

DANAs delete kit includes a new bushing. Wonder if it’s the same size as the OEM?

https://www.quadratec.com/p/dana-sp...m_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organicshopping

Curious minds want to know

 

[Spencer]

Curious minds want to know

Find out soon. Should be here Monday

 

[CarbonSteel]

Curious minds want to know

Stock photo I am sure, but it does appear to be the same.

 

[BadA$$Rubi]

Yeah, it may not be a big deal at all, but with that said, here is what the DS nipple looked like after a few hundred miles of being ran with no bushing in the intermediate shaft. There is quite a bit of galling on the nipple.

My shafts were bound and were turning all of the time including the front driveshaft in 2H. Now did this happen due to Jeep Slop Shop's incompetence? I tend to lean that way.

I should have fit the two together while I had them, but at that point I was so frustrated with the cost and incompetence, I sold them to a local guy who did not care about the galling.

EDIT - to your point though, machining the nipple to fit the plastic bushing is light years easier than building a new bushing (if one can even be built).

That sucks man. That shop should have red flagged it instead of removing the bushing and calling it a day.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Find out soon. Should be here Monday

You bought the FAD delete kit set?

 

[Spencer]

You bought the FAD delete kit set?

Yes, it’s worth a shot to see if the bushing is different.

I don’t want to give up my caster to do the delete though.

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