Options for front axle shafts

Xtremetj

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These RCV axles alone make me regret not getting something that requires a bit less maintenance like some Dana 60 axles. But...I'm already under the Jeep a lot greasing the Johnny Joints on all the control arms.
This was one of the reasons I just bit the bullet and went with 60’s. I took the money I was going to spend on chromoly axle shafts front and rear/truss/c-gussets on the front and put it towards the 60’s. Sold my stock axles for $4,500 applied that and I paid for more than half the 60’s and I’m set. The 60’s will do all I need them to do.





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intentsrig

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What about the shafts that come with Ultimate dana 44 for the JL? They are chromoly, huge 1410 u joint and one thru piece (no fad).

Ok I see a post earlier about them. FYI mine came with full circle clips but the axle shaft was already put together.
 
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jeepsity

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Thanks for sharing...Did the Dana tech say why their chromoly kit doesnt upgrade the FAD-Diff shaft? That seems like a major oversight.
probably because, in their testing ,they found that the U joint will fail, well before an inner shaft.
 

MarkY3130

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I have RCV’s and they are amazing. I rock crawl a lot and they are a game changer.

Prior to RCV’s, with lockers engaged and turning, I would feel a lot of binding. With RCV’s there is no binding and it is incredibly smooth. So smooth that I have forgotten to turn off the lockers a few times and you don’t even notice they are locked. It’s really amazing the difference as compared to u-joints.

Eventually I would like to move up to big boy axles, and I’ll be looking at having RCV’s for them too.

The strength of them is obvious, but the reduced strain and smoothness cannot be overstated.

I grease mine about every 3,000 miles and haven’t had any clicking (Yet anyway). They do spit grease out at the knuckle which is annoying. For a rock crawler, they are totally worth it
 

limeade

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probably because, in their testing ,they found that the U joint will fail, well before an inner shaft.
I agree. While I debated RCV/Yukon/Dana shafts, the lack of a chromoly inner FAD shaft for the Dana's wasn't a deal breaker.

I wanted RCV's, but were out of stock at the time and weren't expected to have any for 3-4 weeks. Yukon's were also out of stock, but have smaller u-joints than Dana. So the Dana's won out due to their price, FAD Delete, and larger u-joints w/full circle clips.

With the Dana FAD delete shafts, I haven't experience any vibration or sounds from the shafts. The RCV FAD delete shafts have some reported cases to cause these issues.

I'd like to see just how much these Dana shafts will take, but will eventually move up to RCV shafts or Dana 60's in the future.
 

Halstem1

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I agree. While I debated RCV/Yukon/Dana shafts, the lack of a chromoly inner FAD shaft for the Dana's wasn't a deal breaker.

I wanted RCV's, but were out of stock at the time and weren't expected to have any for 3-4 weeks. Yukon's were also out of stock, but have smaller u-joints than Dana. So the Dana's won out due to their price, FAD Delete, and larger u-joints w/full circle clips.

With the Dana FAD delete shafts, I haven't experience any vibration or sounds from the shafts. The RCV FAD delete shafts have some reported cases to cause these issues.

I'd like to see just how much these Dana shafts will take, but will eventually move up to RCV shafts or Dana 60's in the future.
For the Dana options, does the larger u-joint only come on the fad delete? I was trying to understand that. If I read correctly, there is a fad delete shaft with 1410 u-joint and if you keep the 2 piece shaft, it’s a 1350 u-joint? Or is the 1350 the upgraded joint?
 

limeade

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For the Dana options, does the larger u-joint only come on the fad delete? I was trying to understand that. If I read correctly, there is a fad delete shaft with 1410 u-joint and if you keep the 2 piece shaft, it’s a 1350 u-joint? Or is the 1350 the upgraded joint?
According to the Dana Spicer literature, the upgraded shafts for JL's include 1410 series u-joints. It doesn't differentiate between the FAD/FAD Delete shafts. If you buy the FAD delete series, you get the same shafts as non-delete, and a box with the FAD delete parts (larger/beefier collar to lock the inner FAD shaft to regular inner shaft, block off plate, and block of plate bolts). So both come with the 1410 joints. The JK chromo shafts have 1350 series u-joints.

https://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/f...eHBK6/DAG-JKPRODBRO-112016.pdf?store=original

I bought my shafts from Northridge and their product description for both states 1350 series u-joints, which is incorrect. I verified the u-joints when I got mine by measuring the cross and bearing cap diameter to ensure they are 1410.
 

Halstem1

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According to the Dana Spicer literature, the upgraded shafts for JL's include 1410 series u-joints. It doesn't differentiate between the FAD/FAD Delete shafts. If you buy the FAD delete series, you get the same shafts as non-delete, and a box with the FAD delete parts (larger/beefier collar to lock the inner FAD shaft to regular inner shaft, block off plate, and block of plate bolts). So both come with the 1410 joints. The JK chromo shafts have 1350 series u-joints.

https://media.spicerparts.com/cfs/f...eHBK6/DAG-JKPRODBRO-112016.pdf?store=original

I bought my shafts from Northridge and their product description for both states 1350 series u-joints, which is incorrect. I verified the u-joints when I got mine by measuring the cross and bearing cap diameter to ensure they are 1410.
Ahhh! So the northridge site was part of my confusion because I knew it said 1350. Then the Dana stuff is not really clear either. But if the Dana is a chromoly shaft and larger u-joint... that might suffice anything I personally would need. I just don't know if I do enough or hard enough rock crawling to justify RCVs at almost twice the cost.

Very helpful. Thank you!
 

MarkY3130

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I have RCV’s and they are amazing. I rock crawl a lot and they are a game changer.

Prior to RCV’s, with lockers engaged and turning, I would feel a lot of binding. With RCV’s there is no binding and it is incredibly smooth. So smooth that I have forgotten to turn off the lockers a few times and you don’t even notice they are locked. It’s really amazing the difference as compared to u-joints.

Eventually I would like to move up to big boy axles, and I’ll be looking at having RCV’s for them too.

The strength of them is obvious, but the reduced strain and smoothness cannot be overstated.

I grease mine about every 3,000 miles and haven’t had any clicking (Yet anyway). They do spit grease out at the knuckle which is annoying. For a rock crawler, they are totally worth it
Adding to this just a bit.

Today I greased up the RCV’s. Last week I got the pressure washer out and cleaned up all the grease that came out of the RCV’s. Then I greased up all the joints on the Jeep, minus the RCV’s, because I got lazy. You have to remove your wheels to access the grease port for them.

I recently changed over to some KMC XD229 beadlocks. Today, with more ambition, I decided I better take the wheels off and grease the RCV’s. Unnoticed there is a removable center section on the new wheels. Removed three bolts, pulled the cover off, and had access to the grease ports! So much easier now.

So, if you are going with RCV’s, consider wheels that make access easier. Another option is to remove the center logo section that many wheels have. On my mopar simulated beadlocks these had the Jeep logo on them, on my new ones it says KMC. This would be that small cover that must be removed to mount the spare over the camera stem. If you leave those out you could access the port, though it may have an unfinished looked if that matters to you, as you can’t exactly pop that in and out with the wheel mounted.
 

SPR Pumpkin Rubi

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Adding to this just a bit.

Today I greased up the RCV’s. Last week I got the pressure washer out and cleaned up all the grease that came out of the RCV’s. Then I greased up all the joints on the Jeep, minus the RCV’s, because I got lazy. You have to remove your wheels to access the grease port for them.

I recently changed over to some KMC XD229 beadlocks. Today, with more ambition, I decided I better take the wheels off and grease the RCV’s. Unnoticed there is a removable center section on the new wheels. Removed three bolts, pulled the cover off, and had access to the grease ports! So much easier now.

So, if you are going with RCV’s, consider wheels that make access easier. Another option is to remove the center logo section that many wheels have. On my mopar simulated beadlocks these had the Jeep logo on them, on my new ones it says KMC. This would be that small cover that must be removed to mount the spare over the camera stem. If you leave those out you could access the port, though it may have an unfinished looked if that matters to you, as you can’t exactly pop that in and out with the wheel mounted.

I have RCV's in my JL without issue. They will spit some grease out but I really dont care.

Can't beat them. I race on RCV (not the JL) and have them in my sxs that for trail riding and racing. Just grease them when you rotate the tires and keep on going.
 

MarkY3130

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I have RCV's in my JL without issue. They will spit some grease out but I really dont care.

Can't beat them. I race on RCV (not the JL) and have them in my sxs that for trail riding and racing. Just grease them when you rotate the tires and keep on going.
For sure. I love these things
 

Renegade

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I agree. While I debated RCV/Yukon/Dana shafts, the lack of a chromoly inner FAD shaft for the Dana's wasn't a deal breaker.

I wanted RCV's, but were out of stock at the time and weren't expected to have any for 3-4 weeks. Yukon's were also out of stock, but have smaller u-joints than Dana. So the Dana's won out due to their price, FAD Delete, and larger u-joints w/full circle clips.

With the Dana FAD delete shafts, I haven't experience any vibration or sounds from the shafts. The RCV FAD delete shafts have some reported cases to cause these issues.

I'd like to see just how much these Dana shafts will take, but will eventually move up to RCV shafts or Dana 60's in the future.
Any update on the Dana Chromoly FAD delete shafts? Have you had the chance to pound on them yet? Any vibrations or other issues?
 

limeade

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Have done some moderate rock crawling this summer and then my son has done a whole lot of trails in the mountains near our house this fall and winter. I recently pulled the front shafts when I installed new ball joints. There was absolutely no twisted or damaged splines, everything looked good as new.

We have the FAD Delete kit too and there hasn’t been any vibrations whatsoever. I’ve also put in an Adams 1350 front drive shaft and it’s still vibration free. So far, I am happy with these shafts and 1410 U Joints, especially for the price.

This coming June/July, we are planning on going to Moab and Rubicon trail (hopefully snow has melted by then) so I will have a better understanding of what these shafts can take.
 

Rosco1983

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Dose anybody know it this part number Part Number: DAN10044432 is a full right side axle shaft or dose it require you to keep your intermediate oem axle shaft?
 

wibornz

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I have my jeep and two more JLUR to upgrade here soon. Also adding Dynatrac HD ball joints at the same time.

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