Opinions on the manual transmission

[ctJLnewbie]

Yeah, absolutely no different

I couldn't feel any difference on our 2018 JL 6speed

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[opiop]

As I understand it, the problem's root cause is due to air bubbles not properly bled from the fluid in the slave cylinder, not by a bad clutch. The clutch going bad is a symptom. The clutch is fine if it was properly bled. Other parts in the recall are to prevent a line from getting cut and leaking fluid catching fire in a catastrophic failure. With air bubbles, the clutch doesn't fully disengage under certain conditions, causing friction that generates extreme heat, wearing out the clutch and compromising in some way the metal in the friction plate which in the extreme, causes it to break apart and blow out of the bell housing and possibly cut the hydraulic line, causing a fire.

Again, that is how it was explained to me. Could be wrong or partially wrong.

That makes a lot of sense now. My clutch always felt kind of "gritty" and never felt smooth which was weird to me because every other clutch I've ever used has felt like butter when engaging. I took it to the dealer for the clutch bulletin and some other stuff. They bled the clutch as part of the bulletin and now it feels awesome, feels like a completely different clutch! I figured the "gritty" feel was from an improperly lubed spring or something.

Would a clutch with pockets of air in the lines feel "gritty"?

 

[DanW]

That makes a lot of sense now. My clutch always felt kind of "gritty" and never felt smooth which was weird to me because every other clutch I've ever used has felt like butter when engaging. I took it to the dealer for the clutch bulletin and some other stuff. They bled the clutch as part of the bulletin and now it feels awesome, feels like a completely different clutch! I figured the "gritty" feel was from an improperly lubed spring or something.

Would a clutch with pockets of air in the lines feel "gritty"?

I´m not really sure what it would feel like, to be honest. I would think it would make the clutch pedal mushy, but I´ve not experienced it. The good news is that you appear to now be good to go and they improved it!

I finally called my dealer and told them I´m ready to bring it in. I´m really hoping it only has to get the minor parts and is good to go. If it needs a clutch, I´ll be surprised. I really don´t want to wait around for parts. I want this thing in there and out in the same day.

 

[Rockywoolf]

12K on my 6 speed 18 sportjlu and i love this clutch. did the "recall" and it passed testing. cant wait to get 4.10s or 4.56 installed this thing will be awesome.

5.13 gears are the way to go. I put them on my manual JLUR w 37s, couldn’t be happier.

 

[bbq4133]

I only have 800 miles on my manual but it is worlds more fun to drive than the Tacoma I traded for it.

 

[jdubya421]

That makes a lot of sense now. My clutch always felt kind of "gritty" and never felt smooth which was weird to me because every other clutch I've ever used has felt like butter when engaging. I took it to the dealer for the clutch bulletin and some other stuff. They bled the clutch as part of the bulletin and now it feels awesome, feels like a completely different clutch! I figured the "gritty" feel was from an improperly lubed spring or something.

Would a clutch with pockets of air in the lines feel "gritty"?

Yes, if it had air in the lines it would feel gritty. My 19 always felt like that and I always figured it needed bleeding. Never did the recall before I traded it in, but I wonder if it would have helped with that.

 

[Johnbuz]

I turned off the Hill assist and I feel a difference when starting out from a stop. Here is western PA, you're always starting on a hill. By a difference, I mean I don't feel the bog and mushy engagement, like before.

 

[Maverick909]

5.13 gears are the way to go. I put them on my manual JLUR w 37s, couldn’t be happier.

I’m planning on only running 35’s until my girl gets her Jeep and we can change all the overland gear to it. I’m thinking the 4.56 should be right on par

 

[jdubya421]

I personally think 5.13s are too small in a Dana 44 and would not run them. 4.56 for 35s and 4.88 for 37/38s any bigger and you need a Dana 60. If you have 35s and will do 37s then having 4.88 with 35s is fine.

But that is simply my opinion.

 

[DanW]

Haven't there been re-gearing problems with Rubis involving the locker or locker sensor? Or have the installers figured it out? I've chewed on it, usually when on my computer and thinking about it. When driving my Jeep, though, I always decide I don't need it. Really, 6th gear is the only place I feel needs improvement, so not sure it is worth it.

What's the approximate going rate for a reputable shop to install top quality 4.56 rings/pinions?

 

[jdubya421]

Haven't there been re-gearing problems with Rubis involving the locker or locker sensor? Or have the installers figured it out? I've chewed on it, usually when on my computer and thinking about it. When driving my Jeep, though, I always decide I don't need it. Really, 6th gear is the only place I feel needs improvement, so not sure it is worth it.

What's the approximate going rate for a reputable shop to install top quality 4.56 rings/pinions?

The issue that Mike had with his sensors in his lockers that he, myself and Shawn kind of figured out is that there is a sensor that gets gear oil in it. It's a factory defect. When I re-gear I am thinking of RTVing the shit out of it to help.

Your gear ratio in the diff is useful on road in a 1:1 TC ratio scenario and a multiplied scenario in 4LO. It made an amazing difference to go from a sport with 3.43 gears and Rubicon with 4.10 gears on 33s. I don't know how I even put up with it. The entire experience off and on road in such a night and day difference. But I'm the only one who drives my Jeep and its only my feelings that matter with my gears.

An approximate rate for a place like stacked off road near Charlotte is like $800-1000. If you get chatting with Diezel maybe he gives you a deal or something (not unheard of). I believe a friend was quoted around $1800 for parts and labor. For comparison I got my gears, master kits, lube locker gaskets, and Dana diff covers from East Coast Gear Supply for $1200.

 

[DanW]

The issue that Mike had with his sensors in his lockers that he, myself and Shawn kind of figured out is that there is a sensor that gets gear oil in it. It's a factory defect. When I re-gear I am thinking of RTVing the shit out of it to help.

Your gear ratio in the diff is useful on road in a 1:1 TC ratio scenario and a multiplied scenario in 4LO. It made an amazing difference to go from a sport with 3.43 gears and Rubicon with 4.10 gears on 33s. I don't know how I even put up with it. The entire experience off and on road in such a night and day difference. But I'm the only one who drives my Jeep and its only my feelings that matter with my gears.

An approximate rate for a place like stacked off road near Charlotte is like $800-1000. If you get chatting with Diezel maybe he gives you a deal or something (not unheard of). I believe a friend was quoted around $1800 for parts and labor. For comparison I got my gears, master kits, lube locker gaskets, and Dana diff covers from East Coast Gear Supply for $1200.

Let me know how it works out when you get them done. Thanks for the info!

 

[mgroeger]

Haven't there been re-gearing problems with Rubis involving the locker or locker sensor? Or have the installers figured it out? I've chewed on it, usually when on my computer and thinking about it. When driving my Jeep, though, I always decide I don't need it. Really, 6th gear is the only place I feel needs improvement, so not sure it is worth it.

What's the approximate going rate for a reputable shop to install top quality 4.56 rings/pinions?

jdubya is right on, the axle locker issue has NOTHING to do with re-gearing. Dealers use the re-gear as an excuse to not fix the problem. In the end it worked out in my favor since we figured out what was really wrong with it and I fixed it myself for free. I was able to share that info on a another thread and help some others in the same boat.
A general rule of them on the JL is $1000 for parts and $1000 for labor for a re-gear. Maybe you could find a shop to do it for $1700.

 

[DanW]

jdubya is right on, the axle locker issue has NOTHING to do with re-gearing. Dealers use the re-gear as an excuse to not fix the problem. In the end it worked out in my favor since we figured out what was really wrong with it and I fixed it myself for free. I was able to share that info on a another thread and help some others in the same boat.
A general rule of them on the JL is $1000 for parts and $1000 for labor for a re-gear. Maybe you could find a shop to do it for $1700.

Thanks!

 

[Hank20]

Did the test, couple hundred miles and no difference between on or off with the brake assist. Only thing that could be slightly different is maybe some brake drag with the brake assist on compared to off, no difference in the clutch at all

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