Opinions on Rock Krawler Lifts

[word302]

Nope, RK offers several options to fit your budget and/or model. The Adventure series includes longer rear links and you re-use the stock rear links on the front (for Rubicon). You can also get the RK disconnects for non-Rubicon models. But if you have a Rubicon, the absolute best is the No Limit links.

If you look at the RK lifts on the Northridge 4x4 site, they have all the different levels of lifts with the different sway bar options. Theres multiple options to cover any and all budgets.

Regular disconnects work just fine with the rubicon. Yes the no-limit links are convenient, but if someone wants to save money and manually disconnect they’ll get as good or better articulation.

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[word302]

Hey all, I’ve started adding a few things to my wife’s ‘21 Rubi. Last weekend I installed a winch and Warn bull bar along with a couple of cosmetic items. I have Ace Engineering sliders on the way now.

She may have finally picked her wheels, the Fuel Beast in a 18x9 +18 offset. We hate tires sticking way out from the fender. Plan is to run these with a 35” tire, likely a Ridge Grappler or STT Pro.

I found this lift and wanted to get some input, I like the fact that it comes with an adjustable front track bar and RK is known for high quality. Open to changing shocks, getting a larger kit etc but know this is my wife’s Jeep so it will see mostly street duty with the occasional trip to the local off road park.

https://www.morris4x4center.com/roc...lift-kit-with-twin-tube-shocks-jl-4-door.html

The only issue you might have is the tires rubbing on the control arms with extreme articulation. Go check out RKs website. They recommend maximum backspacing for each lift. Their front lower control arms are bent up for maximum ground clearance (the way it should be in my opinion), not in for maximum tire clearance like some other manufacturers. The fact that you don’t like your tires sticking out may pose a problem with the RK arms. RK is an awesome company that stands behind their products. One of the few lift manufacturers with a lifetime warranty on hard parts. You can’t go wrong with their lifts as long as it works with your wheel offset. If I’m converting correctly your wheels have 5.75” backspacing which is a lot for an RK lift. I’m running about 3.5” on my 3.5” X-factor.

I also have the Ace sliders. Hopefully your welds look better than mine do. They’re holding up fine but cosmetically look like a 4th grader welded them. Not at all impressed with their quality. I wouldn’t buy anything from them again.

 

[DuRsT]

The only issue you might have is the tires rubbing on the control arms with extreme articulation. Go check out RKs website. They recommend maximum backspacing for each lift. Their front lower control arms are bent up for maximum ground clearance (the way it should be in my opinion), not in for maximum tire clearance like some other manufacturers. The fact that you don’t like your tires sticking out may pose a problem with the RK arms. RK is an awesome company that stands behind their products. One of the few lift manufacturers with a lifetime warranty on hard parts. You can’t go wrong with their lifts as long as it works with your wheel offset. If I’m converting correctly your wheels have 5.75” backspacing which is a lot for an RK lift. I’m running about 3.5” on my 3.5” X-factor.

I also have the Ace sliders. Hopefully your welds look better than mine do. They’re holding up fine but cosmetically look like a 4th grader welded them. Not at all impressed with their quality. I wouldn’t buy anything from them again.

Fair enough, but they only really provide backspacing for the maximum tire size. Given that most run 35’s without a lift on the Rubicon I would think it would be ok. Thoughts on that?

From one of their 2.5” lifts:
Tire Fitment:

Sport and Sahara with Full OEM Fenders
35” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Sport and Sahara with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Rubicon with Full OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Rubicon with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
38” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Wheel Fitment:

Sport and Sahara Wheel Fitment Recommendations
37” Tall Tires - Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing

Rubicon Fitment Recommendations
37” Tall Tires – Recommend 4.5” of Back Spacing
38"/40" Tall Tires – Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing

 

[word302]

Fair enough, but they only really provide backspacing for the maximum tire size. Given that most run 35’s without a lift on the Rubicon I would think it would be ok. Thoughts on that?

From one of their 2.5” lifts:
Tire Fitment:

Sport and Sahara with Full OEM Fenders
35” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Sport and Sahara with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Rubicon with Full OEM Fenders
37” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Rubicon with Trimmed or High Lined OEM Fenders
38” Tall Tires (3” Bump Stop Height Recommended)

Wheel Fitment:

Sport and Sahara Wheel Fitment Recommendations
37” Tall Tires - Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing

Rubicon Fitment Recommendations
37” Tall Tires – Recommend 4.5” of Back Spacing
38"/40" Tall Tires – Recommend 3.5” of Back Spacing

It will be close, you’ll probably be fine. You can always send Adam a private message, he frequents these boards often. @Rock Krawler Suspension

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

I have a question for you RK guys, hope it’s alright to post it here. It’s about the no limit front sway links. Help me to understand how they benefit me on a Rubicon with the sway bar disconnected. Also, is it OK to install the ones for a 4-6” lift on a lift that’s less than 4”? Benefits or drawbacks? Thanks.

 

[Roky]

I have a question for you RK guys, hope it’s alright to post it here. It’s about the no limit front sway links. Help me to understand how they benefit me on a Rubicon with the sway bar disconnected. Also, is it OK to install the ones for a 4-6” lift on a lift that’s less than 4”? Benefits or drawbacks? Thanks.

They allow full misalignment. There’s more misalignment that happens when fully drooped with long travel shocks. You can see it in pic....

With these there’s almost no difference in hooked or unhooked. I’m not sure if there’s a difference with the MC links or not. Maybe you could do a comparison of hooked and unhooked while disconnected if you can droop your wheel fully. Here’s pic, maybe a 1/4” difference.........

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

They allow full misalignment. There’s more misalignment that happens when fully drooped with long travel shocks. You can see it in pic....

With these there’s almost no difference in hooked or unhooked. I’m not sure if there’s a difference with the MC links or not. Maybe you could do a comparison of hooked and unhooked while disconnected if you can droop your wheel fully. Here’s pic, maybe a 1/4” difference.........

Thanks. What you suggested sounds like too much work.

Ive got SteerSmarts links which I’m not thrilled with. Nothing really wrong with them.

 

[Roky]

Thanks. What you suggested sounds like too much work.

Ive got SteerSmarts links which I’m not thrilled with. Nothing really wrong with them.

Didn’t you get some with your kit?

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Didn’t you get some with your kit?

Those are in the rear.

 

[Roky]

Those are in the rear.

I would definitely change your front ones, if they’re to short you risk flipping your sway bar which is not good.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

I would definitely change your front ones, if they’re to short you risk flipping your sway bar which is not good.

’Splain this. I come from cars that almost scrape pavement and adjusting front/rear sway bar stiffness is a means of dialing in oversteer/understeer balance.

As you can see, the swaybar is angled slightly up at the ends. Is that not the proper angle when on fiat ground?

 

[jason0341]

’Splain this. I come from cars that almost scrape pavement and adjusting front/rear sway bar stiffness is a means of dialing in oversteer/understeer balance.

As you can see, the swaybar is angled slightly up at the ends. Is that not the proper angle when on fiat ground?

Yep you’re fine

 

[Roky]

’Splain this. I come from cars that almost scrape pavement and adjusting front/rear sway bar stiffness is a means of dialing in oversteer/understeer balance.

As you can see, the swaybar is angled slightly up at the ends. Is that not the proper angle when on fiat ground?

When you drop your wheel fully with your new shocks your sway bar will look like this.....

So if your sway link is to short then it has a chance to flip forward then when you come off the obstacle you’ll tear stuff up. Look at some photos of MC links installed and you’ll see how long they are, this is why.

 

[JimLee]

When you drop your wheel fully with your new shocks your sway bar will look like this.....

So if your sway link is to short then it has a chance to flip forward then when you come off the obstacle you’ll tear stuff up. Look at some photos of MC links installed and you’ll see how long they are, this is why.

I've seen a swaybar flip, it's amazing the damage it can cause and how difficult it is to unfuck it back to it's rear facing position.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

When you drop your wheel fully with your new shocks your sway bar will look like this.....

So if your sway link is to short then it has a chance to flip forward then when you come off the obstacle you’ll tear stuff up. Look at some photos of MC links installed and you’ll see how long they are, this is why.

Got it. Thanks. With the 2.5” lift t the 30” max extended length of the Rocksport shocks, any idea how long is long enough? Or will o have to disconnect and fully droop to find out for certain?

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