One Aux switch to control LP6 High/Low

[oceanblue2019]

This was my initial thought and preferred method, if it’s working for you I may just give it a shot. I like the idea of having control close to the steering wheel for dark nights on country roads where I want to have quick access to kill the lights for the occasional passing vehicle. If it ends up being an issue I’ll have to get more creative.

Did you just tap the headlight wire from the harness that runs near the battery?

It's working on my Jeep and a friends Jeep. He has the LP's where I have a ONX6+ with low/high setup.

His Jeep has the auto-dim high beams which also works fine with the LP6 so it will dim when the ASG sees oncoming lights.

Let me take a look at my Jeep later today to send you where we pulled the high signal - it was behind one of the headlights. They are all there to the control module for the LED's.

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[Jeepeto]

It's working on my Jeep and a friends Jeep. He has the LP's where I have a ONX6+ with low/high setup.

His Jeep has the auto-dim high beams which also works fine with the LP6 so it will dim when the ASG sees oncoming lights.

Let me take a look at my Jeep later today to send you where we pulled the high signal - it was behind one of the headlights. They are all there to the control module for the LED's.

Awesome, thanks for the info!

 

[oceanblue2019]

Awesome, thanks for the info!

Hi, found the email to my buddy over it.

Behind passenger headlight you want the white/grey wire.

You might be able to find this in the fuse box and use one of those fuse taps to get to it as well. I mean to eventually find that location to see if it's a cleaner pickup.

Make sure this wire just drives the relay control solenoid.

(Note on the drivers side it is white/green if you want to come from that side)

 

[DavidArmen]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but wouldn’t one of the lights always stay lit if a simple SP ST (Common, NO, NC) relay is used? Because it’s either completing the circuit when Normally Open or when Normally Closed, so one circuit is always active and the trigger only switches the circuit from low to high or vice-versa.

However, the high beam consideration seems logical. And in order to not have the full current of the off-road lights go through the stock high beam wiring, that stock high beam wire can instead act as a trigger for a second basic SP ST relay to power the off-road highs with all the current going straight to battery. You can even use one DP DT relay instead of two separate single push single throw relays so it’s cleaner.

 

[Jeepeto]

Correct me if I’m wrong, but wouldn’t one of the lights always stay lit if a simple SP ST (Common, NO, NC) relay is used? Because it’s either completing the circuit when Normally Open or when Normally Closed, so one circuit is always active and the trigger only switches the circuit from low to high or vice-versa.

However, the high beam consideration seems logical. And in order to not have the full current of the off-road lights go through the stock high beam wiring, that stock high beam wire can instead act as a trigger for a second basic SP ST relay to power the off-road highs with all the current going straight to battery. You can even use one DP DT relay instead of two separate single push single throw relays so it’s cleaner.

It will cycle between high and low beam with the headlights as long as the Aux switch is on. The power for the LP6 would come from the 40 amp Aux circuit, so that if the Aux switch is off, the LP6 do not fire with the headlights, although the relay will still "click" on and off with the headlights

I did something similar with the reverse lights on Jeepeto II. I wired a relay into the reverse light circuit, and used the same Aux switch that powered my Squadron Pro lights up front to power the rear auxiliary lights. You could hear the relay click every time I put the Jeep in reverse, but the auxiliary back up lights would only come on if I had my auxiliary driving lights on.

 

[oceanblue2019]

It will cycle between high and low beam with the headlights as long as the Aux switch is on. The power for the LP6 would come from the 40 amp Aux circuit, so that if the Aux switch is off, the LP6 do not fire with the headlights, although the relay will still "click" on and off with the headlights

I did something similar with the reverse lights on Jeepeto II. I wired a relay into the reverse light circuit, and used the same Aux switch that powered my Squadron Pro lights up front to power the rear auxiliary lights. You could hear the relay click every time I put the Jeep in reverse, but the auxiliary back up lights would only come on if I had my auxiliary driving lights on.

Yup! If you don't like the clicking you can get a solid state relay that fits in a normal automative relay plug. They are silent and no mechanical parts to fail. About $50 so a bit more than a normal relay. I think Hella and Bosch make them.

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H41773...5221&sprefix=automative+solid+,aps,127&sr=8-4

 

[Jeepeto]

That's my guess. Hopefully the trigger isn't an undocumented 5vdc. I'm surprised nobody else has gone done a similar road before.

It arrived!

Strangely enough the relay is triggered by cycling a negative (-) signal to the trigger pin. This in theory would work but would require the auxiliary switch be connected to a relay that switches a negative signal to the "flip flop relay" and then the flip flop outputs would need to control 2 relays as it's not rated for high enough amperage to control the LP6.

This being said, it seems like a lot of dicking about to accomplish my end goal. I'm going to revisit the relay tied in with the high beams for control and hope the PWM signal doesn't kill the relay (it should be noted I haven't confirmed PWM signal, I just read it was causing issues). If it does I may attempt to smooth out the signal before revisiting this one switch option.

P.S. it seems your avatar is too far gone for that strap. Better luck next time at least you can justify building a cage in it now

 

[jmccorm]

Strangely enough the relay is triggered by cycling a negative (-) signal to the trigger pin. This in theory would work but would require the auxiliary switch be connected to a relay that switches a negative signal to the "flip flop relay" and then the flip flop outputs would need to control 2 relays as it's not rated for high enough amperage to control the LP6.

If I understand the problem, this is not unlike something we come across when dealing with microcontroller GPIO pins and avoiding a floating signal. (When +12V is not present, we also have a floating signal... not a ground.)

If you're still keen to get this to work, what you can do is tie ground to the trigger pin with a large resistor that just allows a tiny bit of ground current to flow to it.

So with the resistor, if there's no +12V, the signal line stays in the low state. But when +12V is applied, the +12V current far overrides the ground current of the resistor (but nowhere near enough to create heat or smoke anything). Then when the +12V goes away, the signal line gets a solid ground once again and knows to switch the flip/flop. The next time you activate the lights, the other set of lights is activated.

If I'm understanding the problem right, that's all that is keeping you from getting this to work! Perhaps somewhere in the neighborhood of 60K Ohms would be enough to give you just enough signal for a logical low without creating enough current to evoke any magic smoke when +12V appears.

PS: I think you're so close to a working solution!

EDIT: I'm also not understanding something about the current requirements. The flip/flop relay is good for 30VDC at 10A (wouldn't that be 25A at 12V?). Anyhow, looking at the LP6 data sheet, I see a 6.5A element and a 1.52A element, but nothing more. Unless there's something about it I'm missing, the flip/flop relay should be more than enough to handle both lights without adding secondary relays.

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