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One Aux switch to control LP6 High/Low

Jeepeto

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Okay... I've given some thought to this, and I feel like a single switch solution could exists if I can find the correct relay. After a quick google search, I can find what is called an "alternating relay" available, but most seem designed to control 120V AC load, even if the relay itself operates on 12v.

From what I can tell, if these alternating relays behave in the way that I think they do, they would provide a single switch solution to the LP6 Hi/Low problem while using only one aux switch.

Please correct me if I'm missing something here...

If I understand it correctly, the alternating relay is designed to alternate between two loads at every power cycle. That is to say that the first time you press the aux switch (on), it would ignite the LP6 low beam, then you press the aux switch again (off) and it releases the relay, then the next time you press the aux switch (on) the relay would "alternate" to a secondary contact and ignite the LP6 high beam. This cycle alternates back and fourth and would mean that you could select high/low by cycling through the relay using only one aux switch.

I just need to find the relay I'm looking for... It's got to exist
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video describing the AC relay's action, I just need to find a 12v version
Hi Josh, I don't the answer to your question but don't try using an AC relay/contactor on DC loads without serious consideration. DC current tends to arc longer and DC devices are designed with this in mind.
 
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Jeepeto

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Hi Josh, I don't the answer to your question but don't try using an AC relay/contactor on DC loads without serious consideration. DC current tends to arc longer and DC devices are designed with this in mind.
No sir, I wouldn't dare. I'm just trying to find similar function in a 12v DC relay. I can find the function I want in AC, but I'm struggling to find it in DC is my issue.
 

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WARNING: I am an electronics amateur.

I'm wondering if this simple flip/flop relay will do the trick.

Configure your AUX switch as latching (not momentary). Hook the vehicle (battery or accessory) to device VCC, vehicle ground to device ground. Hook your aux button power line to the device TRIGGER. (Yes, the TRIGGER input.) Hook your aux button power line also to the relay COMMON. Hook one load up to device NORMALLY OPEN. Hook the other load up to device NORMALLY CLOSED.

If I'm doing my logic right, that would seem to do the trick, right? (Diagram it out and try simulating a few runs.) BTW, what's an LP6 anyhow? You might need a pull-down resistor in the TRIGGER input.

EDIT: I see that this device appears more flexible, possibly more suited for the job (claims to have a power off relay state memory). But it'll require you drop down the aux power trigger input voltage to either 3.3v or 5v. This alternate device allows you to set a high trigger or a low trigger, which may be more useful.
 
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WARNING: I am an electronics amateur.

I'm wondering if this simple flip/flop relay will do the trick.

Configure your AUX switch as latching (not momentary). Hook the vehicle (battery or accessory) to device VCC, vehicle ground to device ground. Hook your aux button power line to the device TRIGGER. (Yes, the TRIGGER input.) Hook your aux button power line also to the relay COMMON. Hook one load up to device NORMALLY OPEN. Hook the other load up to device NORMALLY CLOSED.

If I'm doing my logic right, that would seem to do the trick, right? (Diagram it out and try simulating a few runs.) BTW, what's an LP6 anyhow? You might need a pull-down resistor in the TRIGGER input.

EDIT: I see that this device appears more flexible, possibly more suited for the job (claims to have a power off relay state memory). But it'll require you drop down the aux power trigger input voltage to either 3.3v or 5v.
I’m trying to verify the function of the relay but it seems to be poorly translated as usual 😂 It’s cheap enough to get one coming and bench test though, and I think I’ll give it a shot!

The LP6 is a Baja Designs light. It has three modes running light/low beam/high beam. I think most people just wire them as a high beam, but if I can retain functionality without using any extra aux switches I’d like to give it a shot.

Thanks for the reply! I’m going to order it up. Do you just solder to the pins on the trigger side? It looks similar to a fan connector from a PC, I wonder if there’s a connector available.
 

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Thanks for the reply! I’m going to order it up. Do you just solder to the pins on the trigger side? It looks similar to a fan connector from a PC, I wonder if there’s a connector available.
That's my guess. Hopefully the trigger isn't an undocumented 5vdc. I'm surprised nobody else has gone done a similar road before.
 
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That's my guess. Hopefully the trigger isn't an undocumented 5vdc. I'm surprised nobody else has gone done a similar road before.
Looks like it's coming over on the slow boat from China, but I'm excited to give it a shot. I went ahead and ordered 2 just to have a spare in case I let the smoke out. Thanks again, if it works the way we think it does I think it may be the solution to my problem. If it does work I'll make sure to make a write up to help the others too.
 

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It is a great idea. Might require a few extra button pushings to get the lights in the mode you want, but worth it to have the extra Aux switch. I really wish jeep would have done 6 aux switches.

I don't know the product to do it, but the idea is sound.
- Aux switch wire goes into black box
- Black box alternates between output A and output B per power cycle
- LP6/LP9 low/high tigger wires each go into a single and separate output A & B


Please report what find, following the thread. I'm also going to ask the electrical engineers at my work if they know of such a device for DC since all our systems run in DC.
 

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Do a search on the forums - I contributed to a thread which accomplished what you want to do.
 

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Do a search on the forums - I contributed to a thread which accomplished what you want to do.
I swear I’ve searched 🤣

… knowing there is pot of gold at the end of the rainbow makes it easier to keep searching though, thanks for the lead
 
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You used a relay tied in with the high beam correct? Any issues? That was my initial thought to make this work; tie the relay into an aux switch and use the high beam to trigger the relay to cycle between the NO/NC contacts. Someone mentioned the headlight circuit was a no go for relays and would fry the relay, and linked to another thread where it had been discussed preciously.

Also, do you have factory LED headlights?
 

oceanblue2019

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You used a relay tied in with the high beam correct? Any issues? That was my initial thought to make this work; tie the relay into an aux switch and use the high beam to trigger the relay to cycle between the NO/NC contacts. Someone mentioned the headlight circuit was a no go for relays and would fry the relay, and linked to another thread where it had been discussed preciously.

Also, do you have factory LED headlights?
Hi,

Have the LED package and works just fine off the high beam enable.

40A aux switch turns the lights on LOW.

When high beams are enabled it switches a relay from the low power input to the high power input on the lights. This way it is a break before make so you never have both energized which Baja says to not do.

Baja also sells a harness that makes this easier but not hard to wire yourself and then you get the right lengths/placements of everything.

See this link as well:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/high-beam-relay-question.45279/post-997964
 
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Hi,

Have the LED package and works just fine off the high beam enable.

40A aux switch turns the lights on LOW.

When high beams are enabled it switches a relay from the low power input to the high power input on the lights. This way it is a break before make so you never have both energized which Baja says to not do.

Baja also sells a harness that makes this easier but not hard to wire yourself and then you get the right lengths/placements of everything.

See this link as well:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/high-beam-relay-question.45279/post-997964
This was my initial thought and preferred method, if it’s working for you I may just give it a shot. I like the idea of having control close to the steering wheel for dark nights on country roads where I want to have quick access to kill the lights for the occasional passing vehicle. If it ends up being an issue I’ll have to get more creative.

Did you just tap the headlight wire from the harness that runs near the battery?
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