Ok to put on 35s and a 2.5 spacer lift?

Dbrodt

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I have a 18 JL sport s. I am trying to find out if it is a good idea to put on 35s and a 2.5 spacer lift. I have been told that works perfectly and that I should not go bigger than 33s since I do not have the Rubicon. I do some rock crawling and some trails. So far I have been runing stock and the clearance is staring to be a little of an issue with what I want to do.
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Joe_S

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I got a 2.5 lift not long ago, and they told me I could go to 35 if I wanted. However, I've seen too many times that you should re-gear if you go to 35.

I decided to just go with 33s and avoid any unnecessary stress on my stock gears.
 

brazos

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I got a 2.5 lift not long ago, and they told me I could go to 35 if I wanted. However, I've seen too many times that you should re-gear if you go to 35.

I decided to just go with 33s and avoid any unnecessary stress on my stock gears.
Me too.
Also the speedometer error is inconsequential with 33s. ~5%.
And power loss is noticeable, but acceptable.
35s would change all of that, I reckon.
 

Joe_S

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Me too.
Also the speedometer error is inconsequential with 33s. ~5%.
And power loss is noticeable, but acceptable.
35s would change all of that, I reckon.
I used superships flashcal to change tire size. My speedometer is dead on, and I haven't really noticed any performance loss.
 

lightsout

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If you plan to crawl you want to pass on the spacer lift and install a spring lift, you also want to go to a 3.5" with quick disconnect sway bar links. Then you are set for those 35's with full articulation. I originally had a 2" spacer lift and after 2 months switched to a spring lift. No re-gearing needed for 35's however you should consider for rock crawling. More than anything else you want articulation which you are not going to get with spacer lift.

Here is are 35's on a 3.5" Rancho Lift

Here is a thread about the lift I installed https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...t-thread-non-rubicon.20211/page-2#post-502704

Here is another great lift thread for NON-Rubicon https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...pension-system-for-the-non-rubicon-jlu.11758/

Note: fuel tank was near empty so the rear normally sits a little lower

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Here is the before and after.

Before With 2" Spacer Lift
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After with Rancho 3.5" Lift
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JimLee

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You can do 35's with 2.5 of lift easily, my 2.5 inch lift kit will support 37's on a sport with the right wheel backspacing and aftermarket fenders (or some trimming), be aware that many lift kits require different wheels because more backspacing is needed. I believe that its infinitely better to get a full suspension lift over a spacer lift, at a minimum do a spring lift, if cost is a concern save up. As stated above sway bar disconnects are a must, whats the sense in adding more articulation if the sway bar is going to keep you from using it. Also note, once you get above 3 inches of lift driveshaft angles start to become an issue and the factory driveshafts don't hold up well for long at high angles, most people go to aftermarket driveshafts (like Adams) with a traditional U-joint setup as they tolerate high angle torque much better than the factory setup. On 35's if you reprogram the computer with your new tire size (flashcal, tazer, dealer, etc..) you fix spedo problems and it also uses your new tire sizes for transmission shifting points, many of us with auto transmissions have noticed no loss of power with stock gearing (subjective) but it seems many with manual transmissions can feel the difference quite a bit more. As stated above, for rock crawling a regear may be in your best interest. I offroad alot, hard, every weekend, but very little of it is "rock crawling" and I don't trust the Mopar spec'd axles on these Jeeps at all (not even the D44 on my rear), mine haven't broken yet but i'm sure they will eventually, but I bought with the plan to do a complete axle swap down the road to something much better. If you are going to "rock crawl" much, you might want to at least consider your plans for the future, and if those plans include new axles or even Rubicon take offs why waste a couple of grand regearing axles that you are going to discard or sell later? I would definitely not waste a penny on lockers on stock sport axles (maybe a D44 rear if you are going to keep it forever, which i am not), a winch is a much better investment in my opinion. There's a ton of good lift kits out there, I think mine is the best but so does literally everybody else who has lifted their Jeep, so i'm not going to try and sell you on a brand. Figure out what's important to you (comfort, ride, articulation, cost, rock crawling capability, desert bombing, ease of install, etc..) and research, research, research what lift is right for you. Alot of people don't have plans as extensive or costly as mine, but rock crawling is addictive, if you see yourself doing it more and harder in the future you might want to sit down and plan out the future of your Jeep now, that way the mods you do now are all part of a final plan and you aren't wasting money. Buy once, cry once is a saying in many expensive hobbies for a reason.
 

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Jimlee

brings up a good point "backspace" of your wheels. Most lifts 3" or above you want a 4.5" 4.7" (-12--18 offset) or lower back space (meaning wheels stick out further providing wheel well clearance. You stock wheels are about 5.7 or higher (+44 offset) so you will either need new wheels with better offset or ad spacers, although you should avoid spacers for hard core off road. Many tire shops will not even service rigs with wheel spacers (at least that is the case in my area).

Those pics of my rig above the lower pic were with wheels with a 5.71 back space, I did not want wheel spacers so I swapped for wheels with a 4.7 back space
 

mwilk012

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Regardless of the lift, or no lift, you will need new wheels with a higher offset or wheel spacers to clear a 12.5” wide tire. You will run your LCA’s at full turn without it. If you have the auto transmission, go for it. Manual, gearing may be an issue.
 

lightsout

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Regardless of the lift, or no lift, you will need new wheels with a higher offset or wheel spacers to clear a 12.5” wide tire. You will run your LCA’s at full turn without it. If you have the auto transmission, go for it. Manual, gearing may be an issue.
There are 11" tires available that would suffice without changing backspace since you only need an inch anyway, there is also a 34" Goodrich KO2,
 

CaJLMetalHead

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Hey JimLee... is yours a Unlimited Sport? did you go with 37 inch tires?
 

mwilk012

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There are 11" tires available that would suffice without changing backspace since you only need an inch anyway, there is also a 34" Goodrich KO2,
Where would you find a 35” tire narrower than 12.4”?
 

CaJLMetalHead

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Yes, I have a sport. I am currently on 35's until I do my axle swaps, then I will be running 37's. I will also be running aftermarket fenders by then.

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Coolios.... curious about your choice of new axles... care to share? thanks!
 

Gecko-JKU

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Just my 2 cents, but before anyone says you cant wheel hard on spacers and 35s, I would look up Litebrite on YouTube. They've done a lot of things on basic mods that most people would say you couldn't do. Now the JL Sport axles are definitely not as strong as the Rubicon axles, but until it breaks/bends there is no real need to replace the axles.
 

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I've been running the EVO 2.5" spacer lift with relocation brackets and 315/70/17 KO2's on stock Rubi wheels for the last 15k miles. I had the dealer recalibrate to 34.5" tires and the speedo is damn near perfect, maybe 1/4mph off at 70mph. I think I slightly rub my front swar bar links (only evidenced by the marks I see) at full lock but I can't even tell. Otherwise I love the setup and it's great. I putt around CO and Ouray trails just fine although most wouldn't be considered hardcore or most of the time even rock crawling. I will ditch the shock relocation brackets and go with longer aftermarket shocks when the stock ones where out.

I'm currently getting 19.8 mpg 90% city.

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