Oil Filter Torqueing Question

[nU7OuxIx]

I just got done changing my oil and filter in my '21 JLU for the first time. Being this is my first cartridge type oil filter replacement vs the old fashioned ones, I had a question about torqueing it down.

I used a torque wrench to 15 ft/lbs. When tightening though, it was weird where it wasn't a smooth tight, it was more of resistance was met and then it would jump to the next resistance area, if that makes sense. If anything it was kind of jumpy when tightening. I only had a 24mm deep impact socket with a 1/2" to 3/8" reducer socket to an extension to a torque wrench available. I have since ordered a 3/8" 24mm socket.

Do you think I overtightened it? Should I remove it and reinstall a new filter? Use the mantra if it ain't leaking don't mess with it?

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[Carolina Jeeper]

I don't understand the whole idea with the torque value on these cartridge filter caps. Assuming you did apply oil to the new O-ring. The cap can only turn until it basically stops. The seal isn''t better or worse based on any torque value. Once the O-ring is in the housing, you turn until there is a noticeable stop. That's it. Stop turning since you've reached the physical stop. Applying more torque at this point is 100% overkill and is not applying more pressure on the seal.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

I don't understand the whole idea with the torque value on these cartridge filter caps. Assuming you did apply oil to the new O-ring. The cap can only turn until it basically stops. The seal isn''t better or worse based on any torque value. Once the O-ring is in the housing, you turn until there is a noticeable stop. That's it. Stop turning since you've reached the physical stop. Applying more torque at this point is 100% overkill and is not applying more pressure on the seal.

Thanks for the reply. I did apply oil to the o-ring and to the o-ring at the bottom of the filter. Hopefully I applied enough oil to it. Turning the filter until it stops makes sense too.

I watched a few youtube videos and it looks like others had the same experience where it gets a bit jumpy at the end. As you mentioned though, when it stops it stops. I'm sure that it's fine, it's just something new and want to make sure I did it correctly. I've changed the oil on my cars for 20 years with the old style filters so that's why I'm questioning this new one. Thanks!

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Tight is tight. Too tight is broken.

I keep a spare cap in my garage… great advice that I got from this forum.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

@Carolina Jeeper
@nU7OuxIx

The torque value / recommendation is undoubtedly supposed to help keep guys/gals from over torquing and cracking the cap. For those that are say over zealous/trying to hard.. 8-) Some will not do as you mentioned in your earlier post and still keep tightening and......

It is a good idea/prudent to keep a spare oil filter housing cap around, if you do your own oil changes..

Not often that a cap will break.... but on occasion a cap will crack and/or the built in relief in the inner top of the cap will fall apart/fall out...

Genuine Mopar Oil Filter Housing Cap - 68191350AA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TO1NX8W/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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[Carolina Jeeper]

Thanks for the reply. I did apply oil to the o-ring and to the o-ring at the bottom of the filter. Hopefully I applied enough oil to it. Turning the filter until it stops makes sense too.

I watched a few youtube videos and it looks like others had the same experience where it gets a bit jumpy at the end. As you mentioned though, when it stops it stops. I'm sure that it's fine, it's just something new and want to make sure I did it correctly. I've changed the oil on my cars for 20 years with the old style filters so that's why I'm questioning this new one. Thanks!

You're welcome! Yes those videos you see where they continue to turn the cap further and it starts to make that stutter noise and movement, that's probably a bit too far. Its basically plastic stop to plastic stop and something could break... which we know from the many that have been broken.

So for me, I oil the new O-ring and install it on the cap in the correct groove. Then I apply new oil to the area the O-ring it seats into on the fixed housing. Align the cap with the housing threads and turn on by hand as far as I can and then finish with a socket and 1/2" drive ratchet by turning until it reaches a moderate resistance stopping point. I have done this plenty of times and have actually overcame the stopping point a bit but just a fairly small amount of turning. So, if you've reached a high resistance and then it stops and then jumps past a bit, you are still ok but stop there since its at the physical plastic housing and cap stops anyway. This plastic to plastic contact is why you see it jumping or making that noise. Just to be clear, the O-ring sealing is completed before this happens.

 

[shane h.]

Get a silver sharpie marker. Put a mark on the oil filter cap and somewhere on the plastic around the cap that match up. Then take the cap off and do your filter change. When you put it back on, just turn until tight and the marks line up. Works for me on two JLURs.

 

[calemasters]

Not sure which engine you have but if you have the 3.6 L, I read where the torque spec for the oil filter cap is 18 lb.-ft.

The first time I changed my oil filter, when reassembling, I thought the threads were crossed. They were not, but it took higher than expected torque to seat the oil filter cap.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Not sure which engine you have but if you have the 3.6 L, I read where the torque spec for the oil filter cap is 18 lb.-ft.

The first time I changed my oil filter, when reassembling, I thought the threads were crossed. They were not, but it took higher than expected torque to seat the oil filter cap.

Correct indeed ...... 18 ft/lb torque for the Oil Filter Housing Cap on the 3.6 L.

 

[blnewt]

I found it's about the same tightness as tightening the typical canister oil filters a 1/4 turn past snug. I put a decent amount of oil on those plastic threads since they seem to want to bind up when tightened down. I also use a 15/16" 6point socket on that soft plastic nut atop the housing, fits better than the 24mm one.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

I found it's about the same tightness as tightening the typical canister oil filters a 1/4 turn past snug. I put a decent amount of oil on those plastic threads since they seem to want to bind up when tightened down. I also use a 15/16" 6point socket on that soft plastic nut atop the housing, fits better than the 24mm one.

That may had been part of my issue. I only lubricated the o-ring and not the threads. Next time I'll put a little extra oil on the threads.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Too tight may not break the cap, but it is what will cause the oil filter housing aka oil cooler to start leaking. Be very careful NOT to overtighten the cap.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

Too tight may not break the cap, but it is what will cause the oil filter housing aka oil cooler to start leaking. Be very careful NOT to overtighten the cap.

Typically, where does it start leaking? At the top where you screw the oil cap on, or at the bottom of it where the plastic connects to the metal part? Just something to look out for.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Typically, where does it start leaking? At the top where you screw the oil cap on, or at the bottom of it where the plastic connects to the metal part? Just something to look out for.

It can vary, but the oil will pool under the cooler until it begins to run down the engine at which time you will be clued in by the smell of burning oil. The thing to remember is the filter housing is plastic and the cooler is aluminum and it is a mechanical fit via clamping force and the rotational loosening/tightening of the cap stresses that fit.

 

[nU7OuxIx]

It can vary, but the oil will pool under the cooler until it begins to run down the engine at which time you will be clued in by the smell of burning oil. The thing to remember is the filter housing is plastic and the cooler is aluminum and it is a mechanical fit via clamping force and the rotational loosening/tightening of the cap stresses that fit.

Thanks. I was thinking about that as I was tightening everything last week. It seems like the filter housing is just hanging out there with no supports. I figured over time, the base of it will crack and start leaking oil.

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