Oil Change on first 1000 miles

KarlG

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Where are you finding 0W20 Dino oil?
It (3.6L) comes from the factory filled with Pennzoil since Fiat has a deal with Shell, the parent company of Quaker State and Pennzoil. It may have the Pennzoil Full Synthetic as I don't see a 0W-20 Non Synthetic on Pennzoil's site however when they were using 5W-20 Pennzoil it was definitely Dino oil., Prior to Fiat buying Chrysler the fill oil used to be Mobile One as most manufacturers use.

The Italians seem to have something for Shell. My Ducatis came with a Shell Fill.
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KarlG

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I don't care where 0W20 is found because once my Jeep Wave freebies are used up, mine will never see a 0W20 "oil" again.

The use of 20 weight oils (and 16 weight oils coming soon) is purely a fuel economy play by the auto makers to save themselves penalties during the EPA testing cycle. After warranty has expired the vehicle is all yours and they don't care what happens to it any longer.
I totally agree with WXman in not only his choice of Firecracker Red, but regarding the use of a higher viscosity oil for protection at the cost of minor fuel savings. And I'm cheap enough to use up and document for warranty purposes those 4 free oil changes.
 

Chocolate Thunder

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It (3.6L) comes from the factory filled with Pennzoil since Fiat has a deal with Shell, the parent company of Quaker State and Pennzoil. It may have the Pennzoil Full Synthetic as I don't see a 0W-20 Non Synthetic on Pennzoil's site however when they were using 5W-20 Pennzoil it was definitely Dino oil., Prior to Fiat buying Chrysler the fill oil used to be Mobile One as most manufacturers use.

The Italians seem to have something for Shell. My Ducatis came with a Shell Fill.
That’s what I suspected. I don’t find any conventional 0W20 oils either, and I’ve looked. I’ve seen a few threads here referencing 0w20 Dino oil and it’s not actually a thing. So it’s pretty safe to say that the factory fill is full synthetic.

Enzo Ferrari had a partnership with Shell since before Ferrari was even a company, FCA isn’t going to do anything to change that.

As was mentioned, in literally ANY automotive forum the question of oil change interval and oil viscosity will have as many opinions as there are posters. It’s extremely pointless to ask because there won’t be any consensus and nobody’s viewpoint will change regardless of the scientific facts or strongly worded opinions that someone else posts.
 

LeoTheDragon

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@WXman Naturally a question on oil change intervals brings out all the warriors here to talk about what type of oil to use and make everyone who doesn't use that type of oil look like a fool who doesn't understand anything about anything... Because that's what the point of the thread is, amirite?

To OP, while I think it's not really necessary to change the oil in the first 1k miles like many people do, there's nothing saying you shouldn't. A lot of people get a piece of mind when it's done, so I get it and don't disagree with that sentiment. What I will argue is the idea that "there are more metal partials from a new engine, it's good to replace the original oil to get rid of it." The thing there is the oil has nothing to do with it - if you're worried about excessive particals, change the oil filter. The oil is still good. Getting a new filter will allow those particals to continue being filtered out while not wasting oil that's still good. I think this is overlooked quite commonly as it's typical that you always change the oil and filter at the same time.
 

allenn

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I changed mine at 2500 didn’t really notice much metal at all second change was 5k same not much metal if any. Now I will do every 5k just because it’s easy for me to keep track of. I use the pennzoil platinum. My local Walmart carries the oil and the mopar filter. Oil and filter is pretty cheap for pice of mind.
 
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HendersonJL

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@WXman Naturally a question on oil change intervals brings out all the warriors here to talk about what type of oil to use and make everyone who doesn't use that type of oil look like a fool who doesn't understand anything about anything... Because that's what the point of the thread is, amirite?

To OP, while I think it's not really necessary to change the oil in the first 1k miles like many people do, there's nothing saying you shouldn't. A lot of people get a piece of mind when it's done, so I get it and don't disagree with that sentiment. What I will argue is the idea that "there are more metal partials from a new engine, it's good to replace the original oil to get rid of it." The thing there is the oil has nothing to do with it - if you're worried about excessive particals, change the oil filter. The oil is still good. Getting a new filter will allow those particals to continue being filtered out while not wasting oil that's still good. I think this is overlooked quite commonly as it's typical that you always change the oil and filter at the same time.
Right! There's the little thing called oil filter!
 

chacomaya

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I don't care where 0W20 is found because once my Jeep Wave freebies are used up, mine will never see a 0W20 "oil" again.

Excerpt from the famous Bob Is The Oil Guy forum:

"Based on our experience 99.8% of motorists have absolutely no idea what the SAE numbers on motor oil labels really mean. They assume that the simple recommendations in their vehicle owners manual are cast in concrete, and that the SAE viscosity of recommended motor oil can not be changed under any circumstances.
The fact that it is quite appropriate to either increase or decrease the manufacturer's recommended
motor oil viscosity, if it is appropriate for your particular operating conditions and desired engine life.

Here are some real time, as well as laboratory tested, ultimate and unchangeable truths:
The ideal oil viscosity for motor oil used in conventional piston engine operating at the "normal" engine operating temperature is equivalent to SAE 30. (In range of 9 cP to 12 cP @ 100C);
If you use thinner oil (SAE 20 or less), under normal operating conditions there will be less resistance to motion due to the lower viscosity, resulting in better fuel economy. However, this gain in fuel economy does not occur without costs:
Increase in oil consumption due to lower viscosity (can be offset by better seals);
Increase in oil consumption due to higher volatility (can be offset by using synthetic oil);
Decrease in engine service life due to increased boundary wear under some operating conditions
(this will cost more per mile driven or per engine operating hour);"

The use of 20 weight oils (and 16 weight oils coming soon) is purely a fuel economy play by the auto makers to save themselves penalties during the EPA testing cycle. After warranty has expired the vehicle is all yours and they don't care what happens to it any longer.
I am planning on changing to a 5w30 or possibly a 10w30 for exactly these reasons. I am all for improving mileage, but not at the expense of increased risk of engine problems down the road, even if that risk is small.
 

Litfuse

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I have shared before in this forum the advertising, both from car manufactures but also from oil companies is all about efficiency. My wife, who works for a large advertising firm has worked with a major car manufactures in conjunction with an oil manufacture. Oil viscosity selection is only made for EPA guidelines. Nothing else. Trust me.
 

nerubi

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I am not sure how I feel about it. Don't want to waste 5 quarts of good factory original oil. Is it really necessary to change oil on your first 1000 miles?

I just want to see what everyone's take is. My JL is at 1700 and I am debating whether to change it or not.
Complete waste of oil like - we aren't making enemies already with low mileage changing the oil before the computer tells you to is going to agitate Al Gore and Michael Moore even more. Some people will tell you they do every 1,000 to 3,000 miles because the engine will tear itself apart with all the engine shavings. BS. The engine designers know more about what oil to use and when to change it then anyone on here.
Start the uninformed flames.
 

Litfuse

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Complete waste of oil like - we aren't making enemies already with low mileage changing the oil before the computer tells you to is going to agitate Al Gore and Michael Moore even more. Some people will tell you they do every 1,000 to 3,000 miles because the engine will tear itself apart with all the engine shavings. BS. The engine designers know more about what oil to use and when to change it then anyone on here.
Start the uninformed flames.
Read my post above. What engineers ask for, what the government wants and what the advertising department says don’t always align.
 

VolCntry73

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For the original post: I changed mine for the first time at 5000 miles, but if 1000 gives you peace of mind...go for it. Plan to change it at every 5000 interval.

As for viscosity...
Also from Bob's:

"Question: Lower viscosity oils are generally for the purpose of improving fuel economy. Engine wear and durability do not seem to be an issue with modern 0W-20 viscosity grades and the engines that call for them, but it is still a common question among enthusiasts. Balancing low viscosity/engine wear. My question is whether it would be beneficial to run a 5W-30 for a bit of added protection if one pushes the engine a bit harder than expected, (in a vehicle that calls for a 20 grade)?

In a vehicle calling for a 20 grade oil it would naturally be recommended to run a 20 grade oil, however your question raises a good point, is it beneficial to still choose a thicker grade of oil for added protection? Comparing a 20 and 30 grade oil from the same Brand and Tier it is likely they will share a very similar additive package and teat rate and therefore offer the same level of protection derived from the performance additives present in the oil, therefore differences in protection will be due to the higher oil film thickness potentially offered by the difference between a the 20 and 30 grade. Unless you are operating significantly harder than a normal duty cycle it is unlikely you will see any benefit. Significantly harder duty might mean a very high proportion of long idle time followed by sudden high speed accelerations (common in police duty as an example) or a harsh environment with lots of sand and dust (abrasive agents). In summary you’d need to push an engine a lot harder to see a benefit."
 

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Since I do my oil changes, I asked if they would give me my four free filters. They told me no, that is was a liability. The service advisor asked me why I don’t have them do the oil change. I asked him how many quarts does my JLR take? He told me six. I told him that he seems to be more of a liability than me. I got a dirty look than four free filters with that comment.
So, if they were to put 6 qts instead of 5, what would happen? Sounds like this dealer normally does that, does it hurt engines?
 

timn1984

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I think on another thread, I read that the JK's were 6 qts and the JKs need 5. I'm just surprised the dealer did not know this and on top of that, has not had many complaints regarding this issue. But I guess most people don't notice a problem until much later down the road.
 

KarlG

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That’s what I suspected. I don’t find any conventional 0W20 oils either, and I’ve looked.
.
Some examples of 0W-20 Syn/Dino Blends:

Philips 66
76 Oil (Phillips owned)
Honda



Factory oil may be Mopar which is sourced from Magneti Morelli like the new Mopar filters.,I have not been able to find any info on MM Oil
 
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