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Oil change frequency, dealer told me DO NOT use service required alert?

Vinman

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Then that would definitely be worth sticking a rag or something into that hole, if it is easily accessible. This is the first I've heard of that happening. Maybe the good side is that yours is letting more cool air in when on the road and giving you a few hp!
I’ve since removed that scoop altogether and will install the snorkel shortly
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DanW

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Similar experience at the service center as the OP. Shouldn't go past 3000 miles, 4,000 miles 5,000 at the absolute most they said.
Got an "Engine Oil Deteriorated" DTC after driving for four hours. Almost 8,000 miles on the Jeep and 45% life left on the oil monitor. Checked the dipstick and it was above full and smelled like raw gasoline. Took it in for service two days later.
Service said I drove it way past when I should have had the oil changed. They were completely shocked when I I asked why the owners manual says to follow the Oil Life Monitor or change it at 10k miles. They said the owners manual was written by idiots and those numbers are used so the engines would fail after warranty. What???
Mines a 4xe to boot and figure it's about 3,500 all Electric and 4,500 Gas miles. No one can tell me how many actual miles are on the engine (guessing 4,500), but they sure can tell me there shouldn't be this much gasoline in the fuel. I did get a nice window sticker to come back and see them again in 4,000 miles for my next oil change. 🤷‍♂️
That makes more sense with the 2.0 but is still concerning. If you have a 3.6 and it smelled like gas, you either idled waaaay too long or something could be wrong with the engine. The 2.0, however, being a DI/turbo, can dilute the oil with fuel under certain conditions. It is interesting in that it sounds like they have a sensor that can detect high fuel dilution. Too bad it isn't tied into the oil life monitor's indicator.

I'd have to agree with your dealer that it needs changed if it smells like fuel.

What oil did you use? I'd recommend Mobil 1 EP 5w30. It is a stout oil that can handle fuel dilution better than some others due to its high "real" synthetic content, or PAO.

Do you idle a lot? Such as remote start? Drive through banks/fast food? That can cause a spike in fuel dilution. Also short trips where the engine doesn't get fully up to temp. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to get up to temp and then you'd need to run another 15 or so to keep fuel dilution at bay. In other words, the oil needs to be cooked a bit.

Edit....I'm completely unfamiliar with the 4xe, but the driving profile might just not let the engine get up to temp which could be causing the fuel dilution. Just a guess.
 
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4xe Rubicon

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Thanks for the input @DanW
Correct, the 4xe only comes with the 2.0L turbo.
The service record doesn't say the oil brand or type, just that the oil and filter were changed. Agreed, Mobil 1 is good stuff.
Minimal to no idling for this vehicle. For remote start, the HV battery supplies the power for the AC or heater when needed. The engine is off and moves through the drive through lines on battery.
Agreed on getting up to temp to burn off the gasoline that has accumulated in the oil. The odd issue is we were driving for four hours continuously on the highway on ICE without stopping and got the DTC after we shut off the vehicle. The engine and oil should have been plenty warm enough for the gas to have evaporated off.
 

DanW

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Thanks for the input @DanW
Correct, the 4xe only comes with the 2.0L turbo.
The service record doesn't say the oil brand or type, just that the oil and filter were changed. Agreed, Mobil 1 is good stuff.
Minimal to no idling for this vehicle. For remote start, the HV battery supplies the power for the AC or heater when needed. The engine is off and moves through the drive through lines on battery.
Agreed on getting up to temp to burn off the gasoline that has accumulated in the oil. The odd issue is we were driving for four hours continuously on the highway on ICE without stopping and got the DTC after we shut off the vehicle. The engine and oil should have been plenty warm enough for the gas to have evaporated off.
Interesting. I've no experience with the 4xe, so there really must be something in the ICE usage profile that caused the dilution. Plus, the mileage on the engine would be lower than on the odometer because you are sometimes on electric only.

Keep us posted as you learn this powertrain and what it likes and doesn't like. Conventional wisdom and experience may be out the window with this setup.
 

mllcb42

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warranty is void if not serviced by a dealership.
They'd also open themself up to a big lawsuit if they tried to pull that, as there are consumer protection laws in place that are very specific about not having to service through a dealership to maintain warranty coverage.
 

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TJJL19

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K&N gives you what you pay for. More airflow. But they don't talk much about what you give up, which is filtration. On a road going car, that doesn't go off-road or into dusty areas, they can be fine. I've seen cars with 200k on them that ran K&N's that were properly maintained. But in a Jeep that ventures beyond parking lots and roads, air flow is less a concern than filtration. They'd be foolish to argue superior filtration. But that's not what their customers are really looking for. The problem is that they don't say much about it at all. I have heard guys argue until they are blue in the face that K&N offers better filtration, even though I don't think they make that claim.

Bottom line. If you are in a dusty area or go off-road, stay away from cloth filters. That's the safe, wise advice. Stick with paper. If not sure which one, go Mopar. Its specs came from the engineers who designed your Jeep and they are off-roaders. The chief designer, Mark Allen, is 100% an off-roader. He knows about this, as do the powertrain engineers.

Everything about the JL/JT intake was designed with off-roading in mind, both in terms of dust and also preventing water intrusion. It is a solid design, and superior to any Wrangler/CJ before it.

Just a side note: From a Stellantis engineer who designed the Pentastar: Cloth filters and cold air intakes are virtually worthless in gaining horsepower over the stock 3.6 setup. At best you might get 3hp, but you can get that with a temperature drop of 10 degrees or running premium gas. It isn't enough to notice. And you lose filtration. What you gain is good looks and sound. He said the factory air intake was designed to get the most out of the engine, but with good NVH. They are FAR better at maximizing power than they used to be and they used expensive equipment to engineer it that nobody in the aftermarket could dream of affording.

One nice thing about the K&N is that if you like it, you can replace it with a paper filter when you go offroad. The Mopar CAI offers the same ability and an actual vent at the side of the hood that helps with cold air. That said, the factory ducting brings cold air right into the engine compartment, too. Just not as directly.
You convinced me, I'm going to get a stock filter today, I change my oil 3-4 thousand miles to keep the engine clean and don't want to dirty it, with bad, dirty, air.
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donmontalvo

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I could be wrong, but I tend to disbelieve your service writer is being truthful. I believe he’s telling you a myth that has been disproven by thousands of oil analyses since it first appeared in the 1970’s - the 3000 mile oil change interval. He’s trying to sell you more oil changes that you don’t need. It’s quite common. Look around the forum for dozens of posts by owners who change it every 3000, 4000, or 5000 miles as “cheap insurance” against premature engine wear or damage.

The truth is, it’s simply not necessary. Even if you were to exceed 10,000 miles on your oil change intervals, you would not cause any extra wear on the engine so long as you’re using the correct oil and there’s no external contaminants introduced into the oil supply. Rock on using the indicator if you like, and don’t trust your service writer’s word on anything from here on.
I have the oil changed every 5,000 miles. I'm at 24,000 now, so I had three oil changes handled by the dealer (wave), and I did the two in betweens myself. I never did oil changes before, but it turned out to be easier than I thought. The only PITA is getting rid of the used oil, but there's a local place that handles it for me, I just drop it off.
 

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I have the oil changed every 5,000 miles. I'm at 24,000 now, so I had three oil changes handled by the dealer (wave), and I did the two in betweens myself. I never did oil changes before, but it turned out to be easier than I thought. The only PITA is getting rid of the used oil, but there's a local place that handles it for me, I just drop it off.
If changing at that frequency makes you feel better that’s great. It won’t damage anything other than your finances.

Most auto parts stores will accept used motor oil so long as it’s not mixed or contaminated with other stuff. A lot of auto repair and maintenance shops will too.
 

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Living in a very hot dusty environment like Phoenix, I change mine twice a year. But I only drive about 6,000 miles in a year. But I think for most climates, 5,000 miles is a good guideline. Those of you that like and believe in the 7,500 to 10,000 mile oil changes, then go for it. Everybody has their own ideas and opinion's, and should be respected for it. So many oil threads, turn into flamers, which is really said..IMO.
 

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For oil changes I take my Jeep to a local independent auto repair shop that has been in business for a long time and has a good reputation. I don't trust the Jeep dealer for this service because they use the newest and least experienced techs for oil changes.
 

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donmontalvo

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If changing at that frequency makes you feel better that’s great. It won’t damage anything other than your finances.
Erm, ok, I guess. :) $23 for 5 quarts every 5,000 miles is good insurance, and probably won't impact anyone's finances. 😂😂😂

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8JJV1H/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

Most auto parts stores will accept used motor oil so long as it’s not mixed or contaminated with other stuff. A lot of auto repair and maintenance shops will too.
Yep, as I mentioned, a local shop is happy to take it off my hands. I just need to pour it into one of their waste oil barrels.
 

donmontalvo

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For oil changes I take my Jeep to a local independent auto repair shop that has been in business for a long time and has a good reputation. I don't trust the Jeep dealer for this service because they use the newest and least experienced techs for oil changes.
Yep, I was afraid to try to do this on my own since I'm not a mechanic, but it turned out to be easy, even if dirty. I felt good doing it myself too, for the same reason you mentioned.
 

donmontalvo

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Living in a very hot dusty environment like Phoenix, I change mine twice a year. But I only drive about 6,000 miles in a year. But I think for most climates, 5,000 miles is a good guideline. Those of you that like and believe in the 7,500 to 10,000 mile oil changes, then go for it. Everybody has their own ideas and opinion's, and should be respected for it. So many oil threads, turn into flamers, which is really said..IMO.
I lived in TX for a few years, before I bought my first Jeep. I had a good shop handle 5,000 mile oil changes, and I handled the air filters. I'm a firm believer in replacing oil before it's due, but I totally respect the decisions others.
 

donmontalvo

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I know for Indiana Jones "it's not the age, it's the mileage" but for me it will likely be the opposite. The Renegade I'm currently driving, for example, is six years old and I haven't hit 40k on the odometer yet. I just don't drive that much.
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