Oil change: 1 yr but maintenance monitor says

[Jehovasfitness]

Due to covid I've only driven 4500 miles in the last year after an oil change.

Usually it's recommended to change at least yearly, and I've read that the gauge cluster info should reflect this.

Currently after 4500 miles and a year, it's still showing 55% oil life.

In the grand scheme the cost isn't an issue, but I find it curious the gauge cluster is still showing 50% life left. Does Jeep not take into account time and only wear/tear/driving conditions?

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[5foot19]

I'd say the answer is clearly that they do not take time in to consideration.

 

[Windshieldfarmer]

Change annually regardless of mileage....oxidation and time go hand and hand.

 

[roaniecowpony]

Of course 1 year is likely a very conservative estimate. A car setting in the dry southwest as opposed to one in say... Wisconsin or Minnesota would have different effects on the oil.

 

[RoadiJeff]

If you don't want to jeopardize your warranty, do not exceed the maintenance schedule in your owner's manual.

Under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 10,000 miles (16,000 km), 12 months or 350 hours of engine run time, whichever comes first.

 

[Creeker]

A couple of months back, similar situation on my 3.6 JLR with manual gear box.
After a year, had about 4200 miles on the clock.
Changed oil anyway.
Don't like to go past 50% oil life anyway.
For me, the most I would go is about 5000 miles before oil changes.

If you have a 2.0T, definitely, only go about 5000 miles before changing the oil, IMHO.

 

[Timmyjoe]

Put 6000 miles in the first three months of owning our JL. Had the oil changed beginning last March. Then Covid hit and I stopped traveling. Have put barely 1200 miles on it in the last year. Probably gonna have to get the oil changed early next month, seems like such a waste.

Best,
-Tim

 

[mgroeger]

OK smart ass time...

I am dumbfounded how we look to our computers for the answer. How did we ever live 20, 30, 40 years ago without our computer telling us when to change the oil? The computer doesn't take into consideration a lot of things, it sure is heck doesn't count for when it's 100 degrees and I've spent a weekend wheeling Moab, etc...

Yet people stare at the cluster and say "But my computer says so and so and it's already been so and so miles."

We need to think for ourselves. Oil changes are dirt cheap and take 20 mins, personally I change the oil every 4k with the exact Pennzoil synthetic that came from the factory. I don't care what the computer says. Common sense didn't go out the window with the advent of a computer "calculating" oil changes.

OK, I'll shut up now...

 

[Bikemobile]

5000 miles or 12 months. Good rule of thumb to follow

 

[Paluss]

it may factor in time, but the time factor is probably much longer then wear and tear. We just took a 1982 Porsche 911 out of storage. Car has been stored for close to 8 years in a climate controlled area. Prior to storage, all fluids were changed and the vehicle was pushed (not started) into the parking space. We drained some of the oil, still looked brand new. Started the car and drove it on a 60 mile round strip on the highway with storage oil all temps and pressures registered normal, but I'm sure we will change out the oil since the car is back in service now...

 

[MtCamper]

I've got to ask the same question the OP did. What happens to the oil over time? Does it spoil? I agree corrosion continues, but how does new vs aged oil prevent more corrosion? How about those filters that say 30,000 miles along with the synthetic 30,000 mile oil? I know truckers pull oil samples and some go way more miles on their oil than we do. Not trying to start any fights, but is anyone aware of anything other than opinion that backs up an annual change regardless of miles. Warranty issues excepted.

 

[Windshieldfarmer]

One other thought - we all have invested between $40,000 - $70,000 in our rigs - a DIY oil change for $40 seems like a no brainer....

 

[Jehovasfitness]

I've got to ask the same question the OP did. What happens to the oil over time? Does it spoil? I agree corrosion continues, but how does new vs aged oil prevent more corrosion? How about those filters that say 30,000 miles along with the synthetic 30,000 mile oil? I know truckers pull oil samples and some go way more miles on their oil than we do. Not trying to start any fights, but is anyone aware of anything other than opinion that backs up an annual change regardless of miles. Warranty issues excepted.

I believe over time condensation can get in there. Especially over the winter time

 

[jludave]

Not trying to start any fights, but is anyone aware of anything other than opinion that backs up an annual change regardless of miles.

From AMSOIL's web site:

"Like just about everything else, motor oil has a lifespan. Even the best oils eventually require you to change them. Historically, many motorists like the convenience of changing oil with the seasons, visiting the quick lube or pulling the ramps out of their garage each spring and fall.

Motor oil can deteriorate by becoming contaminated, the additives depleting over time or both.

How oil becomes contaminated

Base oils are the backbone of the finished lubricant that ends up in your engine. They can be conventional, synthetic or a combination thereof. They’re responsible for lubricating components, which reduces friction and protects against wear.

Base oils can lose their effectiveness over time due to a few different factors.

Oxidation – The interaction between oxygen molecules and motor oil molecules naturally leads to chemical breakdown. Just as oxygen causes a cut apple to brown or exposed metal to rust, it breaks down base oils and reduces motor oil’s effectiveness. Oxidation can lead to increased oil viscosity, which negatively affects energy efficiency. It also causes the formation of harmful deposits and sludge.

High heat – Today’s engines run hotter than ever before, with temperatures up to 235°F, and even higher if towing or hauling. The rate of oxidation for oil doubles for every 18°F increase in temperature.

Moisture – Your vehicle is also subjected to temperature swings, even when it is parked in the garage. Those temperature swings cause condensation to form inside your engine, leading to water contamination. Leaving a vehicle parked for extended periods or taking short trips that don’t allow the engine to fully warm up allow water to remain in the oil rather than evaporating and exiting through the tailpipe. Water can lead to formation of sludge.

Viscosity loss – A lubricant’s viscosity is its most important property. Viscosity has a direct bearing on wear protection, and your engine is designed to operate best using a motor oil of a specific viscosity (e.g. 5W-30). The intense pressure the oil bears as it’s squeezed between moving parts, like the piston ring/cylinder wall interface, can tear apart, or shear, its molecular structure, leading to viscosity loss. Suddenly, the 5W-30 motor oil your engine was designed to use is now essentially a 5W-20 oil, and wear protection may be compromised.

Fuel dilution – Fuel can wash past the piston rings and contaminate the motor oil, causing it to lose viscosity. Frequent short trips that don’t allow the oil to reach normal operating temperature can be especially problematic because the fuel won’t volatilize and exit through the PCV system. Excessive fuel dilution leads to sludge and varnish, requiring the oil to be changed more often.

Additive are designed to deplete

Additives are added to base oils to reduce destructive processes and enhance beneficial properties. For example, antioxidant additives help slow the rate of oxidation. Detergency additives help prevent deposits and sludge while cleaning pre-existing deposits. Anti-wear additives are added to some lubricants to form a sacrificial barrier on metal components and help prevent wear.

Since they’re sacrificial in nature, additive depletion is one of the primary reasons motor oil loses its effectiveness and must be changed.

Though all motor oils eventually deteriorate, synthetic oils last longer than conventional oils and deliver improved protection against wear and deposits. They’re formulated with base oils that are more resilient to oxidation and heat, while their additives also typically offer improved performance."

 

[MtCamper]

OK, those Amsoil comments mostly apply to breakdown with driving. I get the condensation, but wouldn't a 15-20 mile drive get rid of any moisture? As far as oxidation, I'm not sure how much air exchange there is in the oil pan of a modern engine. Seems like most of the oxidation is a parked vehicle would occur rapidly to the point of equilibrium. I'm curious because I have car that gets stored in Yuma for 6 months of the year and driven about 2000 miles in the winter. I don't really like to have anyone else work on it and oil changes are a huge PITA.

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