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JLURD

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I'm just saying....I bought mine because the Apocalypse is coming and my diesel will run on cat piss vs a gas motor. But seriously, the biggest issue with the 3.0 seems to be fuse related which most members here have addressed on their own. I now have a little over 10k miles on mine and compared to my JK and my wife's Gladiator I would not go back to gas! I do wish they would have used 4.10's in the gearing though, but that is my only complaint.
I’m interested to hear the details of the situation in which you found yourself wishing for the torque multiplication of 4.10 over 3.73 because I’ve wheeled the piss out of my relatively heavy build on 37s without once finding a need or even want for 4.10s.
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imjester77

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I’m interested to hear the details of the situation in which you found yourself wishing for the torque multiplication of 4.10 over 3.73 because I’ve wheeled the piss out of my relatively heavy build on 37s without once finding a need or even want for 4.10s.
So my Rubicon behaves different than my wife's rubicon. I have the eco and hers is the v6. I have 3.78, hers has the 4.10's Both JL Platforms'ish (hers is a Gladiator) And off idle the power is fine, but crawling up big 22* hills (Haven't had a chance to climb rocks yet) hers seems better geared. In 4 low hers will rev higher, but mine seems to need to as well. I'm not really moving until about 1800-2k RPM. for a diesel that seem odd to me. lower gearing would take up that slack and have me pulling up at 1200 RPM. But I'm only on 35's, and she is on stock 33's. so who knows
 

JLURD

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So my Rubicon behaves different than my wife's rubicon. I have the eco and hers is the v6. I have 3.78, hers has the 4.10's Both JL Platforms'ish (hers is a Gladiator) And off idle the power is fine, but crawling up big 22* hills (Haven't had a chance to climb rocks yet) hers seems better geared. In 4 low hers will rev higher, but mine seems to need to as well. I'm not really moving until about 1800-2k RPM. for a diesel that seem odd to me. lower gearing would take up that slack and have me pulling up at 1200 RPM. But I'm only on 35's, and she is on stock 33's. so who knows
Sounds like a gear choice issue more than anything else. I’m constantly surprised what it will do in 4H on 20-25 degree slopes...granted a lot of that comes down to tires, surface traction, and whether you’re running lockers in 4H. If you still need the 4:1 t-case, I’d just use the manual mode to grab a higher gear earlier.
 

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I’m interested to hear the details of the situation in which you found yourself wishing for the torque multiplication of 4.10 over 3.73 because I’ve wheeled the piss out of my relatively heavy build on 37s without once finding a need or even want for 4.10s.
I am on 39’s with stock 3.73. I am probably going to re gear at some point to 4.56 simply to get close to stock ratios again for fuel economy and proper HP and torque. I’m off by 16% on 39’s which is technically ~4.27’s, so I figure if I go to a 40” or 42” I’ll likely want to be close to that stock gear ratio at 4.56.
 

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SolarWizard

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I am on 39’s with stock 3.73. I am probably going to re gear at some point to 4.56 simply to get close to stock ratios again for fuel economy and proper HP and torque. I’m off by 16% on 39’s which is technically ~4.27’s, so I figure if I go to a 40” or 42” I’ll likely want to be close to that stock gear ratio at 4.56.

I’m doing 4.88s with 40s on my JT based on a couple JT guys reporting back that 4.56 on 40s wasn’t quite enough
 

JLURD

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I am on 39’s with stock 3.73. I am probably going to re gear at some point to 4.56 simply to get close to stock ratios again for fuel economy and proper HP and torque. I’m off by 16% on 39’s which is technically ~4.27’s, so I figure if I go to a 40” or 42” I’ll likely want to be close to that stock gear ratio at 4.56.
I understand wanting to be near stock ratios regarding shift points, but 4.56 is likely to make your fuel economy worse and IIRC, a 3.0 on 3.73 is twisting as much wheel torque as a 3.6 on 6.13, yet we don’t see 3.6 guys on 40s gearing that high to make up for their flywheel torque deficit. Now if you want to spend less time in 4L on 39-40”, I could see that as a solid upside to 4.56.
 

SolarWizard

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I understand wanting to be near stock ratios regarding shift points, but 4.56 is likely to make your fuel economy worse and IIRC, a 3.0 on 3.73 is twisting as much wheel torque as a 3.6 on 6.13, yet we don’t see 3.6 guys on 40s gearing that high to make up for their flywheel torque deficit. Now if you want to spend less time in 4L on 39-40”, I could see that as a solid upside to 4.56.

I opted for the sport T case on purpose as I expected to be a touch higher than ideal numerically to allow me to pull 6000lb trailer occasionally behind 40s and some sand wheeling in 4 low without over revving
 

JLURD

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I opted for the sport T case on purpose as I expected to be a touch higher than ideal numerically to allow me to pull 6000lb trailer occasionally behind 40s and some sand wheeling in 4 low without over revving
Ahhh I see...yea regear probably worth it then.
 

Yankee1019

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It not only has an expiration code, if the military had it during WWII, they wouldn't have needed the Navajo language for secrecy - the DEF's expiration code is much more cryptic.
DEF has a shelf life of about 12 months so if the packaging has a manufacture date you could go off of that.
 

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rickinAZ

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DEF has a shelf life of about 12 months so if the packaging has a manufacture date you could go off of that.
Given how the date is presented (I'm being generous here), It's not as straightforward as one may think.
 

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Given how the date is presented (I'm being generous here), It's not as straightforward as one may think.
Not only that, the ambiguity is also in how it was stored or transported before it was put on the retail shelf.

If it was stored for a few days in temps higher than its ideal specification for storage, then its expiration is exponentially accelerated - maybe even down to 3 months.

This is why I am buying DEF only from the dealership (the MOPAR's DEF has a straightforward exp. date). And I hold on to the receipt, and should there be any problem, they can't blame me. Yes, I am paying twice the amount for MOPAR brand, but at least my risk of out of pocket expenses for repairs is greatly reduced.
 

Gorilla57

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This is why I am buying DEF only from the dealership (the MOPAR's DEF has a straightforward exp. date). And I hold on to the receipt, and should there be any problem, they can't blame me. Yes, I am paying twice the amount for MOPAR brand, but at least my risk of out of pocket expenses for repairs is greatly reduced.
You are wasting your money. There’s only a couple of plants in the US that produce DEF. You can get the exact same DEF from WalMart for less than $7 for 2.5gal AND the date is clearly printed on the bottle. Take a pic of the bottle and keep the receipt if you are worried about warranty and DEF issues.
 

Ruby Mike

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You are wasting your money. There’s only a couple of plants in the US that produce DEF. You can get the exact same DEF from WalMart for less than $7 for 2.5gal AND the date is clearly printed on the bottle. Take a pic of the bottle and keep the receipt if you are worried about warranty and DEF issues.
I get the DEF from home depot. The store has a high turnover of the product and costs about 13 dollars for 2 and a half gallons. Examine the container for white deposit and be sure that the lid has not been opened. I don't recommend getting the DEF from Amazon because you don't know the condition of the fluid. I have been using the DEF from home depot for close to 19 years and have no problems.
 

StealthJLUR

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I understand wanting to be near stock ratios regarding shift points, but 4.56 is likely to make your fuel economy worse and IIRC, a 3.0 on 3.73 is twisting as much wheel torque as a 3.6 on 6.13, yet we don’t see 3.6 guys on 40s gearing that high to make up for their flywheel torque deficit. Now if you want to spend less time in 4L on 39-40”, I could see that as a solid upside to 4.56.
The BFG regional rep guy who runs local shop here in Salt Lake City told me he thought getting back to factory gear ratios should bring my fuel economy back up a bit. I don’t feel a lack of power or torque at all really. But he said it’s kind of like towing a trailer around all the time pushing this big of tire. It makes the load on the engine significantly more, and changing the gearing will ease the load on the engine. I’m no expert. What are your thoughts?
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