junglemaster
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Yes I have the higer numbers in the passenger side and it still droops a little bit. Maybe thats normalYes Rubi springs are side specific.
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Yes I have the higer numbers in the passenger side and it still droops a little bit. Maybe thats normalYes Rubi springs are side specific.
Thanks Mike, I will. take you up on your offer and try this fix first! PM sentI've got takeoff Rubicon springs that were removed about 10k after being bought new. I've got hardtop, factory steal bumpers front and rear, and the factory tow package. I believe that combination of options gets the highest spring rate.
Edited to add: Forgot to point out that I'm your neighbor out on long island, so they're yours if you want to take a ride out.
Man that's a lot of rake. That would make me crazy. Like others have said springs are corner specific and it sounds like yours are on the wrong sides.Here's some more pics. I am waiting on some inner fender liners to add on.
View attachment 305107
View attachment 305108
I don't think the top or the metal bumpers make any difference. The factory metal bumpers are light. When I take my top off my JL or JK my rear doesn't come up at least to the naked eye. Look at lift kits on the market and not one of them talk about bumpers or tops. I think you need to spend a little money and start with a clean slate. I don't think the lower control arms make any difference either. Another little advise I'd give is don't run shock extensions like some people are telling you to do. I think you had a solid idea In your mind when you started but it's really going sideways on you. My advise if you're on a tight budget is sell what you have and just buy Rough Country 2.5 spacer lift with their N3 shocks. Total price would be around $300 and you'd be way better off.RUSTYS, I put the higher number springs on the passenger side isn't that correct? Read it here on the forums. It was ending numbers 59 on driver side and 60 on passenger. Anybody use the Rock Krawler spring isolator pads on their lift front and rear? And yes, it is driving me crazy maybe if I had a hard top it wouldn't be so much rake
Yeah the photo definitely looks a lot steeper than the stock rake.I'll admit that new pic, its way more obvious. ...
I got longer LCA's with my lift and the camber angle is exactly the same after the lift as it was stock, so they do correct it. Now if you're talking about them effecting handling/performance they may not do anything. IDK, but I didn't want to risk worsening my ride/handling. I guess worse case is you add them later if you need to....... I don't think the lower control arms make any difference either.....
I would have done that if I had known about it sooner or even the Enduro lift. The first time I saw the enduro lift was the wayolife Eddie on YouTube showing it off, and then I didn't take it seriously because I know he gets paid to make those videos so I always take what I see with a grain of salt not to mention he is friends with the owner of dynatrac. He changes lift kits and suspension set up all the time so its hard to keep up.I'll admit that new pic, its way more obvious. I don't think the hardtop is that big of a deal. I take my top off all the time and my rake doesn't increase drastically. I was playing with my own rake this weekend because my bumper and winch made my back end sag. I loaded around 150% in the very rear of my jeep and it only lowered about 3/8th inch. I honestly think you need to spend a little money and get the appropriate spring set from Synergy or similar.
Thanks Rusty but the labor cost will be much more than that it cost me $950 to put on teraflex 1.5 spacer lift, install fox 2.0 IFP 0-1.5 in shocks, longer Mopar LCA's, JKS 0-2 disconnects, trailer front track bar and install maximus 3 winch plate and warn winch. I think that was a fair price, and the man that did it, did a great job. I got it done at Evans 4X4 in deer park long Island. Nice guy to work with... I am amazed at all the Texas or down south jeepers who say oh they got their lift done for $250 or something like that.I don't think the top or the metal bumpers make any difference. The factory metal bumpers are light. When I take my top off my JL or JK my rear doesn't come up at least to the naked eye. Look at lift kits on the market and not one of them talk about bumpers or tops. I think you need to spend a little money and start with a clean slate. I don't think the lower control arms make any difference either. Another little advise I'd give is don't run shock extensions like some people are telling you to do. I think you had a solid idea In your mind when you started but it's really going sideways on you. My advise if you're on a tight budget is sell what you have and just buy Rough Country 2.5 spacer lift with their N3 shocks. Total price would be around $300 and you'd be way better off.
I think the LCA helped to keep things within spec, my jeep tracks straight at 80 no wobble or anything but gotta hold on when you hit a big bump that wheels gonna jerk one side or the other.Yeah the photo definitely looks a lot steeper than the stock rake.
And what happened to the wheel well liners? I know you mentioned getting some but they were in your original pictures so why replace them?
You know, they got cut up during the installation of the shocks (to access the bolts without removing the linere) and it looked terrible.. they had uneven cuts on all sides, I couldn't stand it so I ordered Rough Country inner liners going on very soon...
I got longer LCA's with my lift and the camber angle is exactly the same after the lift as it was stock, so they do correct it. Now if you're talking about them effecting handling/performance they may not do anything. IDK, but I didn't want to risk worsening my ride/handling. I guess worse case is you add them later if you need to.
I say whatever nose dive you’re experiencing won’t change, unless you change shocks, which I wouldn’t do, because once you drop the rear, it will feel like it changed.So I called Teraflex about this issue and spoke with Taylor. He told me I shouldn't try to lift the front but instead to drop the rear. He made sense at that point but i felt like a fool because I didn't read anywhere saying about doing only a lift in the front, fuck me!
I told him the front felt heavy with the steel bumper and winch. He says its the shocks. Fox shocks are amazing off road shocks but on the highway its gonna be a little soft and around the corners, etc... then tried to sell me on teraflex shocks. I asked him if I put taller springs for a 2" lift then would that be beneficial? Would it ride better and stop the nose dive? He tells me nope the nose dive is because of the Fox Shocks and people just deal with it as the fox are great off road. So I'm thinking to myself this is just what I have to live with if I have a winch on the front end. Tuning a jeeps suspension i guess has many factors involved... still learning.
I considered teraflex but met a guy who has the 3.3 falcons tell me its very stiff. But he wouldn't say more he had about $6K worth of teraflex on his car so I didn't press further.
Then I read (pressurized) forum member say Fox 2.0 IFP best shocks for the money.
He never mentioned nose dive or soft around corners etc.
He had me send him a side shot of the jeep and he did a mock up by drawing a vertical line and one that followed the fender lines and asked me to measure the difference from the bottom lug to center of hub cap. Its exactly dead nuts 2 inches.
So he tells me if I remove my 1.5 spacer in the rear I will get the stance I want....what??! After all that...
So I could have saved time, money, and grief by only installing the front 2" spacers. Damn!!
Reason why is because I have a soft top and no weight in the rear. The rake is actually 2 inches and not 1 inch. So if you got a soft top people, lift the front first and then check before you touch the rear.
So I guess I'm gonna try to remove the rear spacers, and then see how it sits and rides. But I think the ride will improve? Wouldn't what I think is nose dive due to 2" rake kind of go away if I go back to .5 inch rake by removing the rear 1.5 spacer? What say you?
That was my thinking. I want to keep my shocks if possible, but I was thinking that the rear jacked up was making it worse feeling on the front heaviness...I say whatever nose dive you’re experiencing won’t change, unless you change shocks, which I wouldn’t do, because once you drop the rear, it will feel like it changed.
Being jacked up is enhancing the feeling so when you’re back level, it won’t be so dramatic...
I would remove spacers in the rear first, or at least an inch of it and see how it looks, and rides, then make plan from there. If you rub in the rear , it won’t be bad, just run in inner liner, and that probably only at full flex, not sure how often you’ll do that. Or you can add some bump stop in the rear to help out with it.That was my thinking. I want to keep my shocks if possible, but I was thinking that the rear jacked up was making it worse feeling on the front heaviness...
But now, if I remove the rear 1.5 spacer and only keep the 2" front spacer am I effectively just level Rubicon height and that's it no lift? So means I can put on 35 and it might rub??
Even if I move to an Enduro sport lift kit with my soft top and steel bumpers/front winch I am concerned that I will still experience the extreme rake/droop in the front???
The whole reason I went with the spacer in the first place was I wanted some lift to add bigger tires later on with no rubbing and get extra clearance on the trail...