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Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available!

Northridge4x4

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We now have our new JL Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits in stock!

Our JK grade 8 bolt kits were so popular we produced them for the Jeep JL/JLU too!

First up is the NORJLGR8-1 kit: These are in stock and ready to ship!

NORJLGR8-1.jpg


It's a 52 piece kit that replaces the Original Equipment bolts with grade 8 hardware in your front and rear Lower Control Arms (LCAs) and both axle and frame mounting bolts for your front and rear Track Bars.

You can find the NORJLGR8-1 kit here: Jeep JL Grade 8 bolt kit for LCA & Track Bars.


Next up is the NORJLGR8-2 kit: These will be available soon!

NORJLGR82_1.jpg


This 48 piece kits contains enough grade 8 fasteners to replace the bolts in your Upper Control Arms (UCAs) and Lower Shock Mounts both front and rear.

You can find the NORJLGR8-2 kit here: Jeep JL Grade 8 bolt kit for UCA & Lower Shocks Mounts.


Benefits:
  • Tighter fit in both the frame and axle mounting bracket holes and the link end bushings.
  • Non-Threaded shank will not prematurely wear out the bushing bores like fully threaded bolts can.
  • Perfect match for any aftermarket suspension, works with Original Equipment suspension too.
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Northridge4x4

Northridge4x4

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@Tech Tim recently installed a set into a JLU Sahara, the full write-up is at www.NorthridgeNation.com/jeep-jl-grade-8-bolt-kit-instructions/

Excerpts for the story:
The Wait Is Over – JL Grade 8 Bolt Kits are here!
That’s right, replace the OE suspension bolts in your Jeep JL/JLU with the new Northridge4x4 JL Grade 8 Bolt Kits (pn# NORJLGR8-1). Featuring high strength and a better fit than the fully threaded original equipment bolts that come in your JL, the NORJLGR8-1 bolt kit takes the guesswork out of upgrading your suspension bolts.


Ease of installation:
This is a pretty easy installation, you don’t even need jack stands, though they do help.
We give it a two wrench rating out of the traditional 1-5 wrench scale.



Tools Needed:
13/16″, 7/8″, 15/16″ Wrenches and Sockets
19, 21, 22, 24mm Wrenches and Sockets
1/2″ Ratchets
1/2″ Breaker Bar
1/2″ Short Extension
1/2″ Swivel
Torque Wrench

*An air compressor and an air rattle gun is not necessary, but sure makes the job easier.



Extras Needed:
Medium strength thread locking compound; we like to use Loctite Blue.
Floor Jack
Jack Stands

The How To:
Replacing the bolts in your suspension can seems hard, but we’re here to tell you that if you take it a step at a time, it really is an easy swap to do. First off keep the weight on your axles, don’t lift the frame or do this job on an auto lift. If you leave the suspension at it’s resting height you’ll be able to replace the suspension bolts one at a time without much drama.

First step is to get your Jeep up on four jack stands. You can do this job with all four tires sitting on the ground, but it is easier if you put your jeep on jack stands. Use a floor jack under the axle to lift up your Jeep and slide a Jack stand under the axle tubes.

This will allow you to remove the tires, which will give you a little more accessories to the nuts and bolts and by raising the Jeep, you will have a little more room under the vehicle to get to those fasteners with wrenches, ratchets and breaker bars.

The big keys to this swap is to do it with the vehicle weight on the axles so the suspension is at resting height and to install these one bolt at a time. By keeping the suspension at rest (not compressed and not drooped) you can easily pull one bolt at a time and replace it without the axle moving out of alignment.



Front-Track-Bar.jpg



Use a 21mm socket to remove the front track bar bolt at the axle. The captured nut plate will drop out from the backside and the track bar will stay stationary.
We used a wobbly 21mm socket to help get in and around the steering linkage. We are also using and air gun to power out all the old hardware.
Wait to install the new grade 8 track bar hardware until the end.

*If you’re going to do this by hand, you’ll probably find that a breaking bar will be need to break loose at torque on all the OE bolts.



Rear-Track-Bar.jpg


Remove the rear track bar bolt at the axle. The rear track bar will drop down out of it’s bracket a couple inches.
Do not install the new grade 8 bolt in the track bar until the end.






Rear-LCA-Frame.jpg


We started with the rear Lower Control Arms (LCA) and used a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the OE bolt at the frame.

*Remember to do this one bolt at a time.*






Grade-8-Comparison.jpg


Set the OE bolt next to the new Northridge4x4 Grade 8 bolt and the first thing you’ll notice is that the OE bolt is threaded all the way to the bolt head and the NR4x4 grade 8 bolt has a large non-threaded shank and threads only at the ends.

As hardware starts to loosen up over time, the threaded portion of the OE bolt will wear both the OD of the threads and the ID of the suspension bushing, making the joint sloppy over time.

The large non-threaded shank of the NR4x4 bolt fits tighter in both the bolt hole and the bushing hole than the OE bolt and will not wear down like the OE bolt. Which will help your suspension stay tighter for much longer.



Loctite-248.jpg


Install a flat washer under the head of a rear LCA grade 8 bolt and apply a little medium strength thread locking compound to the outer half of the threaded end.



Install_GR8-RLCA.jpg


Install it through the link hanger and link end. Slip a flat washer onto the other side, install the nut and torque to spec.
The new grade 8 bolt head is 13/16″ and the nut is 7/8″.



Axle-End-LCA.jpg


With the frame end done, move to the axle end of the link and remove the OE bolt.



RLCA-Axle-Gr8.jpg


Grab another rear LCA grade 8 bolt, install a flat washer against the head, apply a dab of Loctite to the threads and insert it into the link and hanger.



RLCA-Tighten.jpg


Add another flat washer to the other side of the bolt, screw on the nut and tighten to spec.



Frnt-Frame-LCA.jpg


Just move your way around the vehicle, replacing one bolt at a time.
The LCA bolts in the front of the JL are larger diameter than those found used in the JK.

The bolt head is 21mm and the nut is 24mm. As is often found with metric fasteners, there are often SAE sizes that fit close enough. For the front LCA bolts instead of using a 21mm and 24mm, you can use a 13/16″ on the head and a 15/16″ for the 24mm nut.

FLCA-GR8-Frame.jpg


Same as before, flat washer under bolt head, blue Loctite on threads, insert new grade 8 bolt in through the link end and link hanger.



Tighten-FLCA.jpg


Install the other flat washer and nut and then tighten to spec.



FLCA-Axle.jpg


The axle end LCA bolt on the left hand side can be real tight to get to. We used this slick little shorty 1/2″ air gun to fit between the differential housing and the link mount.

Just keep working your way around the suspension replacing the bolts one at a time and before you know it, you’ll have them all done.



Front-Track-Bar-GR8.jpg


When you get all the Lower Control Arm bolts replaced, you can move onto the track bar bolts.
We replace the bolts at the upper end of the track bar first and then the axle end bolts last.
For the front end, you may find you need to have a helper wiggle the steering wheel back and forth a little to get the bushing end to line up perfectly with the bolt hole so the new grade 8 bolt can slip in place.

The rear track bar is pretty much the same as all the others, flat washer on each side of the bolt, a little blue Loctite on the thread, install the nut and torque to spec.
 

Tech Tim

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What about replacement grade 8 body bolts, the ones that sometimes break when removing/installing rock sliders?

Wow, haven't seen that before.

Which ones, the big ones going through the body mount bushing or the little ones on either side?
 

Chocolate Thunder

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Build Thread
Link

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Tech Tim

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I read through that thread, looks like four bolts so far. We'll keep an eye on that thread to see if it grows.

One step at a time!
 

Tech Tim

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Yes, three on each side.
 

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Tech Tim

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Nothing new at this point.
 

RenoMD

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just found this, bumping for those whom are interested. I love wrenching.
 

Jeepr

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@Tech Tim recently installed a set into a JLU Sahara, the full write-up is at www.NorthridgeNation.com/jeep-jl-grade-8-bolt-kit-instructions/

Excerpts for the story:
The Wait Is Over – JL Grade 8 Bolt Kits are here!
That’s right, replace the OE suspension bolts in your Jeep JL/JLU with the new Northridge4x4 JL Grade 8 Bolt Kits (pn# NORJLGR8-1). Featuring high strength and a better fit than the fully threaded original equipment bolts that come in your JL, the NORJLGR8-1 bolt kit takes the guesswork out of upgrading your suspension bolts.


Ease of installation:
This is a pretty easy installation, you don’t even need jack stands, though they do help.
We give it a two wrench rating out of the traditional 1-5 wrench scale.



Tools Needed:
13/16″, 7/8″, 15/16″ Wrenches and Sockets
19, 21, 22, 24mm Wrenches and Sockets
1/2″ Ratchets
1/2″ Breaker Bar
1/2″ Short Extension
1/2″ Swivel
Torque Wrench

*An air compressor and an air rattle gun is not necessary, but sure makes the job easier.



Extras Needed:
Medium strength thread locking compound; we like to use Loctite Blue.
Floor Jack
Jack Stands

The How To:
Replacing the bolts in your suspension can seems hard, but we’re here to tell you that if you take it a step at a time, it really is an easy swap to do. First off keep the weight on your axles, don’t lift the frame or do this job on an auto lift. If you leave the suspension at it’s resting height you’ll be able to replace the suspension bolts one at a time without much drama.

First step is to get your Jeep up on four jack stands. You can do this job with all four tires sitting on the ground, but it is easier if you put your jeep on jack stands. Use a floor jack under the axle to lift up your Jeep and slide a Jack stand under the axle tubes.

This will allow you to remove the tires, which will give you a little more accessories to the nuts and bolts and by raising the Jeep, you will have a little more room under the vehicle to get to those fasteners with wrenches, ratchets and breaker bars.

The big keys to this swap is to do it with the vehicle weight on the axles so the suspension is at resting height and to install these one bolt at a time. By keeping the suspension at rest (not compressed and not drooped) you can easily pull one bolt at a time and replace it without the axle moving out of alignment.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8



Use a 21mm socket to remove the front track bar bolt at the axle. The captured nut plate will drop out from the backside and the track bar will stay stationary.
We used a wobbly 21mm socket to help get in and around the steering linkage. We are also using and air gun to power out all the old hardware.
Wait to install the new grade 8 track bar hardware until the end.

*If you’re going to do this by hand, you’ll probably find that a breaking bar will be need to break loose at torque on all the OE bolts.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Remove the rear track bar bolt at the axle. The rear track bar will drop down out of it’s bracket a couple inches.
Do not install the new grade 8 bolt in the track bar until the end.






Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


We started with the rear Lower Control Arms (LCA) and used a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the OE bolt at the frame.

*Remember to do this one bolt at a time.*






Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Set the OE bolt next to the new Northridge4x4 Grade 8 bolt and the first thing you’ll notice is that the OE bolt is threaded all the way to the bolt head and the NR4x4 grade 8 bolt has a large non-threaded shank and threads only at the ends.

As hardware starts to loosen up over time, the threaded portion of the OE bolt will wear both the OD of the threads and the ID of the suspension bushing, making the joint sloppy over time.

The large non-threaded shank of the NR4x4 bolt fits tighter in both the bolt hole and the bushing hole than the OE bolt and will not wear down like the OE bolt. Which will help your suspension stay tighter for much longer.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Install a flat washer under the head of a rear LCA grade 8 bolt and apply a little medium strength thread locking compound to the outer half of the threaded end.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Install it through the link hanger and link end. Slip a flat washer onto the other side, install the nut and torque to spec.
The new grade 8 bolt head is 13/16″ and the nut is 7/8″.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


With the frame end done, move to the axle end of the link and remove the OE bolt.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Grab another rear LCA grade 8 bolt, install a flat washer against the head, apply a dab of Loctite to the threads and insert it into the link and hanger.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Add another flat washer to the other side of the bolt, screw on the nut and tighten to spec.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Just move your way around the vehicle, replacing one bolt at a time.
The LCA bolts in the front of the JL are larger diameter than those found used in the JK.

The bolt head is 21mm and the nut is 24mm. As is often found with metric fasteners, there are often SAE sizes that fit close enough. For the front LCA bolts instead of using a 21mm and 24mm, you can use a 13/16″ on the head and a 15/16″ for the 24mm nut.

Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Same as before, flat washer under bolt head, blue Loctite on threads, insert new grade 8 bolt in through the link end and link hanger.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


Install the other flat washer and nut and then tighten to spec.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


The axle end LCA bolt on the left hand side can be real tight to get to. We used this slick little shorty 1/2″ air gun to fit between the differential housing and the link mount.

Just keep working your way around the suspension replacing the bolts one at a time and before you know it, you’ll have them all done.



Jeep Wrangler JL Northridge4x4 Grade 8 Suspension Bolt Kits are Now Available! Front-Track-Bar-GR8


When you get all the Lower Control Arm bolts replaced, you can move onto the track bar bolts.
We replace the bolts at the upper end of the track bar first and then the axle end bolts last.
For the front end, you may find you need to have a helper wiggle the steering wheel back and forth a little to get the bushing end to line up perfectly with the bolt hole so the new grade 8 bolt can slip in place.

The rear track bar is pretty much the same as all the others, flat washer on each side of the bolt, a little blue Loctite on the thread, install the nut and torque to spec.

Do you have an updated link? I couldn't find it on your site.
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