NON STOCK SWITCHES., WHERE TO INSTALL THEM?

[F800]

I ended up wiring two switches directly below the headlight/dimmer controls. It made the most sense to me to put my auxiliary light switches in this area. I only wired two switches, but it looked like there may be enough room for 1 or 2 more. There is no need to remove the entire dash to get to this area.

The headlight controller comes out very easy with a trim removal tool. You can see there's a face plate, followed by the control panel, which has 4 metal clips that hold it in place. Once you pull the panel out, you will be able to unplug the wiring harness by pushing the red tab up and pulling it apart.

I also removed the knee panel below the steering wheel so I could run my wires easier. The panel is held together with clips and comes out relatively easy. Once the headlight controller was removed, I made a template and traced where my holes were going to be. I made sure the wiring wouldn't rub on the headlight controller, once installed. You will have just enough room to wire the switches....unless you have fat hands and/or fat fingers. Good luck. Have patience.

Some tips: wire your switches from bottom to top so you have more room to work. Also if you're going to use a dremel to drill your holes, don't slip like I did and scratch your panel.

Is this basically the same thing that you used?

Nilight NIL102 Off Road ATV/Jeep LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit 40 Amp Relay On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0155W7EDS...t_i_BFXB1BF2TFYMA4BQ2KYR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

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[JAY1941]

Love these Switch-Pros SP9100s. By far the most reliable and flexible system I have used yet, but hey I’m bias. And I haven’t labeled them. They run my lights, are Bluetooth, and have enough power to run my Rigid 50 inch PRO light.

I have found they can
1. Flash or strobe any light
2. Be set to momentary or regular setting
3. Can trigger using my phone
4. Solid state relays will power down if voltage drops to low.
5. Are RGB LED.
6. Switch pros sells this mounting kit which I have here to mount them out of the way using a factory bolt.
7. Dim with factory lights at night
8. Can be triggered by an external electrical input.

All in all I’m actually quite happy with these and my wiring is a lot cleaner than it would have been if I had tried to do it on my own.

 

[Deleted member 59098]

ARB switches and generic auto parts switches fit perfectly in the empty AUX cubby. You can fit 3 in there. Just drill a hole in the back for wires.

 

[gothewild]

Is this basically the same thing that you used?

Nilight NIL102 Off Road ATV/Jeep LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit 40 Amp Relay On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0155W7EDS...t_i_BFXB1BF2TFYMA4BQ2KYR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I apologize for the delay. I haven't been on the forum for a while...They wiring harness I used came with my KC Lights. It looked very similar to that. I'm sure you've figured it out since May...

 

[Daffydnbugs]

I bought the following RF relay from Amazon. It looks like it is not available, but there are others. Just make sure the description says it works with garage door openers. I had to try a couple before I got it right.

I wanted an enclosure that provided better protection against water/dust so I also got one of these to house the circuit board and painted it black. I had to do a little trimming on the corners of the circuit board to make it fit though.

I ran some four conductor 18 awg wire to minimize penitrations in the enclosure and used the same lead to power the circuitboard and the relays. The relays are only good for 10 amps, but that is enough for my application.

I powered the whole thing using the AUX3 circuit to ensure that I don’t inadvertently trigger the lights on the highway.

Great idea! Would you mind explaining how you ran the wires?

 

[iamstillvince]

Great idea! Would you mind explaining how you ran the wires?

i did same type of thing, hooked up an rf switch box under hood, can control with my visor buttons. currently using it for pods on pillars and reverse lights on bumper. originally i didnt have any wiring to run inside so simple but i had 2 issues. i had no way to know of lights were on or off in daytime, rf was randomly turning itself on. i ran wires to led lights inside so i know what's on and off. solved random on off by putting layer of tinfoil on bottom of box i had rf unit installed in.
it works but ill probably buy one of the available switch setups in future to replace it

 

[MandKM]

Great idea! Would you mind explaining how you ran the wires?

Wiring is the same as for any relay. You need a +12v wire to power the RF circuit as well as to provide the power to the relays for the lights (or whatever your driving). As I mentioned earlier, I use one of my AUX circuits, but you can take power from the fuse box if you prefer.

I was able to keep all the wiring in the engine compartment by placing the RF relay there as well. As @iamstillvince notes, the disadvantage is that you don’t have an indicator light to tell you when the relays are on.

 

[rcadden]

I'd love to see a way to add a row of switches above the rear view mirror. I have the advanced safety package, but it seems like that should actually work in my favor, giving another mounting spot.

 

[Jdt589]

I ended up wiring two switches directly below the headlight/dimmer controls. It made the most sense to me to put my auxiliary light switches in this area. I only wired two switches, but it looked like there may be enough room for 1 or 2 more. There is no need to remove the entire dash to get to this area.

The headlight controller comes out very easy with a trim removal tool. You can see there's a face plate, followed by the control panel, which has 4 metal clips that hold it in place. Once you pull the panel out, you will be able to unplug the wiring harness by pushing the red tab up and pulling it apart.

I also removed the knee panel below the steering wheel so I could run my wires easier. The panel is held together with clips and comes out relatively easy. Once the headlight controller was removed, I made a template and traced where my holes were going to be. I made sure the wiring wouldn't rub on the headlight controller, once installed. You will have just enough room to wire the switches....unless you have fat hands and/or fat fingers. Good luck. Have patience.

Some tips: wire your switches from bottom to top so you have more room to work. Also if you're going to use a dremel to drill your holes, don't slip like I did and scratch your panel.

You are a genius my friend. I was able to mount my light switch and very pleased with results. I found it helpful to use a skewer to tape the wires to the end of the skewer and pull the wires up. Also, I found a 3/4" drill bit was a perfect fit for these switches. You have to push some to get them seated in the hole but once in, they are very snug. Again, thank you so much for this post!

 

[Rubicibolo]

Haven't checked it yet as it's winter but I have a 2 door so only 2 switches on power window panel in center. Hoping the lower 2 don't have anything behind it so I can put a couple switches below window switches

Anything on this, did it work?

 

[iamstillvince]

Anything on this, did it work?

sorry, i went different direction. first i bought an amazon rf unit and installed under hood with control from the buttons on visor, it was all kinds of issues so now i put in an auxiliary switch set, works great but still need to permanently mount the switch box.

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