No CD Players on ANY version / option???

word302

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There is always loss when any digital format when converted to analog sound. Google a CODEC or coder/decoder. You will see the loss values and this is why in the digital telephone systems we have today, we have to Pad the DB levels for the CODEC loss when the data is converted to analog. The MP3 compression itself does not cause loss. I t is the coder/decoder function that causes the loss. The reason vinyl is richer and warmer is because vinyl is analog and does not have to be converted from digital.
Yes I fully understand the importance of quality DACs, but are you really comparing the the sound quality loss from digital/analog conversion to the crap sound of mp3s?
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loco

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Yes I fully understand the importance of quality DACs, but are you really comparing the the sound quality loss from digital/analog conversion to the crap sound of mp3s?
Now you are getting into the source of MP3. As far as compression / decompression and quality of sound that depends on the processor speed and ram size on the device you are playing the MP3 or copying MP3 to USB. My USB's sound great in my uconnect.
 

Niteshooter

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I suspect the reality is that in a listening environment such as a Wrangler whatever is lost in the original audio signal may not be of any true consequence. I can see this argument having some weight if it was a heavy sound insulated vehicle like perhaps a Rolls but a Wrangler especially one that is topless?????

I'm from the school of compression throws away data, probably comes from the photographer in me who has dealt with JPEG compression for many years. So it will depend a lot on how much data you are tossing out the window with the compression system in use. For my audio files I use the least amount of loss possible and honestly I can't say in a moving vehicle I notice a huge difference.

Using my AKG or Seinnheiser studio reference headphones I can hear differences. Just got a pair of Bose noise cancelling headphones and was surprised by what I heard on the opening track of Pink Floyds Wish you were here, sounded iike someone in the studio either farted or burped. But again in a Wrangler? I don't know.

The other wild card is the listeners hearing, as I get older my high frequency hearing loss is becoming more apparent. (result of high volume levels from car and home audio) Makes me wonder how badly destroyed some kids hearing is from high listening levels from ear buds, you know the type. You can hear their music at a reasonable listening level when they are sitting across from you.....

I've ripped my music libraries to thumb drive, very handy when going from car to car er well until I forget which car I left it in or pocket but otherwise pretty handy. Though if the player doesn't have a good front end for searching the hundreds to thousands of pieces of music you have loaded it might be a bit of a nightmare.

Then we get into the front end such as the U-Connect radio and Pioneer speaker system. Seems these days most manufacturers have their audio systems fine tuned to the vehicle. Back when I first started driving the first thing that was replaced were the radio and speakers. But today I am more inclined to buy the top end manufacturer installed system. Also doesn't help that every car maker is putting in head units of weird shapes and sizes so aftermarket installations are more complicated even with Metra adaptors if there is one available. Same with the wiring harness. Though why of why put a subwoofer in the floor???? Not like I wasn't going to put my snow blower in that spot when I have to transport it from my house to my mom's...
 

loco

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I suspect the reality is that in a listening environment such as a Wrangler whatever is lost in the original audio signal may not be of any true consequence. I can see this argument having some weight if it was a heavy sound insulated vehicle like perhaps a Rolls but a Wrangler especially one that is topless?????

I'm from the school of compression throws away data, probably comes from the photographer in me who has dealt with JPEG compression for many years. So it will depend a lot on how much data you are tossing out the window with the compression system in use. For my audio files I use the least amount of loss possible and honestly I can't say in a moving vehicle I notice a huge difference.

Using my AKG or Seinnheiser studio reference headphones I can hear differences. Just got a pair of Bose noise cancelling headphones and was surprised by what I heard on the opening track of Pink Floyds Wish you were here, sounded iike someone in the studio either farted or burped. But again in a Wrangler? I don't know.

The other wild card is the listeners hearing, as I get older my high frequency hearing loss is becoming more apparent. (result of high volume levels from car and home audio) Makes me wonder how badly destroyed some kids hearing is from high listening levels from ear buds, you know the type. You can hear their music at a reasonable listening level when they are sitting across from you.....

I've ripped my music libraries to thumb drive, very handy when going from car to car er well until I forget which car I left it in or pocket but otherwise pretty handy. Though if the player doesn't have a good front end for searching the hundreds to thousands of pieces of music you have loaded it might be a bit of a nightmare.

Then we get into the front end such as the U-Connect radio and Pioneer speaker system. Seems these days most manufacturers have their audio systems fine tuned to the vehicle. Back when I first started driving the first thing that was replaced were the radio and speakers. But today I am more inclined to buy the top end manufacturer installed system. Also doesn't help that every car maker is putting in head units of weird shapes and sizes so aftermarket installations are more complicated even with Metra adaptors if there is one available. Same with the wiring harness. Though why of why put a subwoofer in the floor???? Not like I wasn't going to put my snow blower in that spot when I have to transport it from my house to my mom's...
Compression should not throw away data. There is a re-transmit function when the receiving device detects loss of bits in the frame check sequence FCS in the data packet. When an FCS error occurs, the receiving device request the sending device to re-transmit the error frame in a new packet. But this depends on the devices, such as RAM size and processor speed.
 

kurt13

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We're worried about lossless audio now?

♪♪♪♫♪♪♫♪♪
<wind noise>
♪♪♪♪♫♪♪♫♪♪
<tire noise>
♪♪♪♫♪♪♫♪♪
<truck engine noise next to you>
♪♪♪♫♪♪♫♪♪
<flapping side windows>
♪♪♪♫♪♪♫♪♪
<active noise cancelling field>
♪♪♪♫♪♪♫♪♪

I'm betting CD quality audio will be about as good as you're going to be able to hear in a Jeep. Even a JL.
 

Carlton_Banks

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Just copy your cd's to a USB flash drive. That way you can have 100's of songs on one little chip instead of taking up room with CD's.. Been doing that for years.
I'll have to figure something out because I miss my music lol.
 

The Great Grape Ape

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We’ve discussed this before, you’re not limited to 128kbps MP3s so pick another format if you actually care about quality. The Uconnect supports two losses codecs, one big one small, as well as VBR MP3s and MP4s, and WMA. However unfortunately no FLAC and no OggVorbis.

If you’re concerned about quality use M4B (unfortunately no lossless M4A) which also supports audioook chapters/folders, or WMA Win 10Pro, both of which will give you higher quality than a CD and the same size as a non-VBR 320 MP3.

No need to rip it at 128kbps , there are better options for the Uconnect.

https://www.driveuconnect.com/content/dam/uconnect/system/2017/pdf/8.4-RA3.pdf
 

banessi

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We’ve discussed this before, you’re not limited to 128kbps MP3s so pick another format if you actually care about quality. The Uconnect supports two losses codecs, one big one small, as well as VBR MP3s and MP4s, and WMA. However unfortunately no FLAC and no OggVorbis.

If you’re concerned about quality use M4B (unfortunately no lossless M4A) which also supports audioook chapters/folders, or WMA Win 10Pro, both of which will give you higher quality than a CD and the same size as a non-VBR 320 MP3.

No need to rip it at 128kbps , there are better options for the Uconnect.

https://www.driveuconnect.com/content/dam/uconnect/system/2017/pdf/8.4-RA3.pdf
Grape is spot on here. In iTunes you can rip at 256 as a setting and I think you may be able to go higher than that as a custom option. And I'm sure there are even better ripping programs that still maintain a friendly format to UConnect's processors.
 

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Love the sarcastic thread.
 
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Tyrantresister

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We’ve discussed this before, you’re not limited to 128kbps MP3s so pick another format if you actually care about quality. The Uconnect supports two losses codecs, one big one small, as well as VBR MP3s and MP4s, and WMA. However unfortunately no FLAC and no OggVorbis.

If you’re concerned about quality use M4B (unfortunately no lossless M4A) which also supports audioook chapters/folders, or WMA Win 10Pro, both of which will give you higher quality than a CD and the same size as a non-VBR 320 MP3.

No need to rip it at 128kbps , there are better options for the Uconnect.

https://www.driveuconnect.com/content/dam/uconnect/system/2017/pdf/8.4-RA3.pdf
I don't know anything about it. WHich is the best format to convert my CDs to and why?? What are the two?
 

The Great Grape Ape

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I don't know anything about it. WHich is the best format to convert my CDs to and why?? What are the two?
The two supported lossless formats WAV which saves in huge files, and then WMA which will save a CD to about a third to half size (250-300MB instead of 700MB). It can also do multi-channel and hi-res, but I don’t think Uconnect will support multi-channel playback, so it would downmix it to stereo usually by default.

The best format to convert your CDs depends on a few things.

How big is the hard drive you’re going to archive all your CDs on? How many CDs are you archiving? What devices will they be ppayed back on?
And the most important question, what operating system is your computer that will be riping the music?

IMO, either rip twice (one for archive , one for portability) or else either rip everything once in high quality to archive, and then make collections with converted copies for portability, or rip at a very high-bit rate for the supported formats (768kbps WMA / 320kbps AAC [IIRC maxes are 1400kbps / 512kbps]).

For archive rips use a high quality codec. For that most people use FLAC, but there are a lot of options, FLAC is just seen as the most ‘universal’. However in this case if you want to just do this once and use that for the jeep as well then rip it to WMA 10 Pro , but I would only do that if you are stuck for space. On an Apple rig you can use the Apple Losless codec, but I would still recommend saving to FLAC using a 3rd party app instead for portability. You want to rip in one of these codecs so you have essentially an exact copy of the CD but in a more portable and archivable format.

The advantages of lossless over very high bit-rate lossey encoding is debatable, and a lot hinges on the source material being used and the quality of the encoding process (multi-pass on a good PC or quick rip with mediocre hardware and software). But for archive purposes and to avoid spending time doing this again, save it the first time as best you can and spend a few pennies more on a big enough drive to do it right IMO.

For portability, where you want a smaller size without much compromise in quality for putting more copies on a memory stick or for limited space, I would go with either AAC or WMA, encoded in stereo of course , and at 256kbps variable bit-rate. Both will be better than 320kbps MP3s IMO. AAC is the more universal format in this situation and arguably both it and WMA are equal in quality at that bit-rate. You can pick higher bit-rates for both but you don’t gain much from that for listening in a vehicle, and most would be hard pressed to tell the difference even with headphones, though some of us can, which is why you archive in a lossless format.

All of that may have gone over your head, but to make things simple for now and the future, I would recommend: Rip your CDs as FLAC for archiving on your computer and then convert them to AAC @ 256kbps for portable uses like the Jeep. It’s a two step process, but one that gives your some future-proofing and more flexibility IMO.

Hope that helps.
 

banessi

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Wow, I was going to pop in with a Let Me Google That For You link (http://bfy.tw/FmZj) but Grape went yard. Seriously, there are a lot of articles on how to rip music and what formats/compression are the best.
 
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Tyrantresister

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Wow, I was going to pop in with a Let Me Google That For You link (http://bfy.tw/FmZj) but Grape went yard. Seriously, there are a lot of articles on how to rip music and what formats/compression are the best.
Yeah, there's always a smart ass in the bunch. None of those articles will answer my question in relation to the Rubicon's specific computer, but I'm sure it helped stroke your ego a bit.
 

banessi

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Yeah, there's always a smart ass in the bunch. None of those articles will answer my question in relation to the Rubicon's specific computer, but I'm sure it helped stroke your ego a bit.
Wasn’t trying to be that guy. I didn’t infer the application to Wrangler/FCA out of the question. If a little smart ass belongs in a thread it’s definitely this one though. I’ve got over 600 CDs that were ripped a long time ago. Unless you’re running some high end Mcintosh system with 10000 dollar speakers in a padded sound proof room your average 256 MP3 should do more than sufficiently in a noisy Wrangler.
 

The Great Grape Ape

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I’m with the SmartA... err.... Banessi on this one. The answer to the supported formats was covered in the post you replied to prior to that, there is nothing more to add specific to a Rubicon.

His link provided a good list and description of the formats in the first two links, especially the Lifewire link (#2 on Google’s list) and then 3 of the first 6 detailed how to rip in the various formats across platforms.

I was surprised to see Sony being so helpful considering their stake in selling music and rights ownership.

Either way, you now have the wherewithal to make CD’s songs playable in a Wrangler.
 
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