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New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model. Looking for insight.

ThirtyOne

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been in my sports for a year and a half now. walked out for under 36K ive put on a few things for cheap. rubi suspension for 150 bucks and the rock rails where only 50 and rubi wheels and tires brand new for 900 bucks cash. basically have a rubi that is well under 45-60K and my payment is half the price it would have been with a rubi. I also said i wouldnt mod my jeep.... well now i have a 2.5" lift on its way and plans to axle swap. etc. but i feel with the rubicon i would have done the same mods i have planed out and would have been 15K* more in debt. thats just my .02 the only down fall is if you like to have a new vehicle every few years the trade in/ resell on a rubi is a little higher.
I have done similar mods to my Sport S. But i realize it’s not a Rubicon. There are a lot of capabilities off-road that you can’t easily add. Also once you lift and add bigger tires the gearing differences will be noticeable. So it just depends on what you plan to do with it. If you are going to stay at 33s like i have decided to then the Sport S is a great value.
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aldo98229

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I owned 4 Rubicons and 4 Saharas before. This time I was looking for a good “all around” Wrangler and went with a Sahara V6 automatic.

It is capable of tackling pretty tough trails and deep snow, rides and handles very comfortably, the drive is refined, and retains an understated, classic Jeep look. I’d do it all over again.

PS - My JLU Sahara with 33” tires (275/70R18) has as much ground clearance as my 2018 JKUR Recon with 2” Mopar Lift and 35” tires.
Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. 1593445660226

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Cazadores

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Sometimes you can find a great deal on lightly used Rubicons, so if you have some time and patience that might be a good option for you.

I've seen some smoking deals on new Sahara JLUs recently, but if you're going to buy new my advice is to suck it up, pay the man and get exactly what you want, amortized over the life of the car you really aren't saving a lot over the different trims if you get a somewhat loaded out Sahara or Sport S over a Rubicon. I went down this road with my SO, she bought a fairly stripped JKU Sport thinking she just drives it on the streets, and it was many thousands less. Two years later we were back at the dealer taking a big hit on the Sport and buying a special edition Sahara, which she loves and will keep and enjoy a lot longer. So, again, my advice is find a solid dealer willing to order exactly what you want for 7% or so below invoice, or have patience and find a lightly used like new private party offering, just make sure it is really less, like 10k under a new similarly equipped Jeep with less than 10k on the odometer.

One thing to keep in mind as well, I know a ton of people who went and bought a Sport, thinking they were going to build it up. They either eventually just sold it or traded it in on a Rubicon. If this is a DD you may find you can't take it out if service for mods, or it may just be to inconvenient. You may find the mods will make the Jeep less civilized and less enjoyable day to day, something to consider. Also, mods really are throwing money away with the exception of the joy they may bring you, where factory editions-Rubicon, Willys, Moab, etc. tend to hold value. Seriously though, really think about whether you will DO THE MODS. If not, get the loaded model you want.

I really like the Willys BTW, I think its a great package for the money.

We have both the 8A on the 2.0 and the 3.6 with the JK auto and the new 6sp MT. I like the 3.6 and since I can't seem to get my head around an auto in a Jeep thats my only choice. The 2.0 8 speed is really nice though. Driving around Chicago you might find it to be a great way to go. As somebody said, turbos and combustion engines aren't exactly pioneering technology, so I'd drive both and see what you like, where you like the power band, HP over torque, etc.

Of course manual transmissions and steering dampers aren't exactly new technology either........

In the end you will explore all the options and find a two door 6 speed standard Rubicon really is the only, best choice. ;)
 

CaseOfAle

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I'd also recommend the Rubicon model. it's going to have the most demand on the secondary market when/if you sell someday in the distant distant future.

You will want all the Rubi stuff on your non-rubicon model, you know you will. The small savings on the initial purchase price will be offset by the after market mods.

Only get the Sahara if you are absolutely certain you will not want or need those very unique features

4:1 TC is unbelievable. If you wheel even mildly with a club, you'll regret having a 2.72:1 when you can just 4-Lo it and crawl all day long without touching the gas. It's so awesome.

Lockers.. They are amazing. They may make the obstacles easier, but omg are they fun. You'll follow Sports with Limited Slip and watch them struggle, and when you lock and 4-lo and just crawl over everything. Amazing.

Disconnecting sway bar. When everyone else crawls under neath to disconnect, you just hit a button. When the jeep is muddy, snow packed and smelling awful - They have to crawl under to reconnect.. you hit a button.

Front/Rear D44's are very strong and reliable (at least on the TJ), and you will have more confidence in your 35's. But the 4:1 and Lockers mean you probably aren't beating on your axle shafts as bad as a limited slip. So stronger and better equipped to handle the tires.

The Rubicon is geared higher, revs higher and will be worse on gas mileage - at least the original TJ's were. If that is insignificant, then get the rubicon.

I've had YJ's, TJ's, XJ's, WJ's, and now an JL Sahara - I bought the jeep that fit my wants and needs, but highly recommend the Rubicon if you are debating the issue. Highly recommend it.

When in doubt get the rubicon - You won't regret it.
 

Maverick909

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also i agree. look into the willy's package. comes with the 3.73 gearing which is far better on a 33" tire. still havent figure out why fca would go 3.73 on all the sport models
 

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Equitasforall

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I could tell you, but then....
My other area of concern is the hinges. I’m a clean car guy...I thought they resolved the bubbling paint issue on the hinges...then I saw that 30 page thread on how it’s still coming up.
I have a 2018 JLR and have no issues with the paint on the hinges or anywhere else. I also use my Rubi as a daily driver but went with Rubicon for the unknowns I'd encounter when I'm out exploring. I'm not into rock crawling, but there may be times when I need the capability as I didn't know what to expect when I left the pavement. It's come in handy and proves the "it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it" theory.

My sister has a 2019 JLR with the 2.0T and she hasn't had any issues in her 26,000 miles. Been pretty solid for her.

Happy to discuss further or answer other questions if you have them. Just let me know.
 

Toycrusher

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In response to your first paragraph, it is not at all a waste of getting a Rubicon because you simply lifted it and upgraded the wheels/tires. Furthermore, it's still not a waste to replace all steering linkages, track bars, and control arms that largely aid in properly supporting that new lift and tires.

It only becomes a true waste, if one goes into it knowing they will replace axles and transfer case and will be gutting interior paid for creature comforts for weight savings. Then, they should've just gotten a stripped down sport from the get go, because at that point they really paid an arm and a leg for a cooler looking hood and highline fenders.
+1 billion

The 4.10 gears and lockers are easy worth $4,000
 

Bryce

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When in doubt get the rubicon - You won't regret it.
I meant to put this in my other post. During my back and forth between Sport and Rubicon, my wife settled it. She knows me well (together over 30 years now).

She told me to just stop going back and forth and just buy the Rubicon. If I didn't, I'd regret it.

I know she doesn't have a clue about all the stuff on the Rubicon, but knows it's the better off road and likes how it looks better. She's the financial side in the house and knew I'd be shoveling more money to build a Sport than a Rubicon too.
 

Cazadores

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I live in Jeep country, they are very popular here and we have many jeep clubs who take advantage of the countless great trails the area has to offer. I have friends and neighbors who have been down this road and this is what happens. It is why I say, modding is fun, and go for it, just make sure you DO IT.

They see everybody smiling ear to ear in their amazing looking jeeps. They start talking to friends who own them, who invariably tell them to get a jeep, do it now, since the longer you wait its just time lost on the trail. They log onto "jlwranglerforums.com" and see all the pics of peoples crazy cool looking builds, and look up "localcity4x4.com" and actually go talk to people about their jeep builds, people duly proud of their jeeps. They talk themselves into the Sport as its thousands less, and they can use all that money on mods.

They go and get the Sport at the local dealer and get out the door in the low to mid 30ks.

They want to mod it but the money/time/inconvenience gets in the way. All their new buddies and acquaintances are out hitting moderate trails a Rubicon would easily handle but the Sport they use to go to work might, and I mean a probably not might, get stuck/damaged, so they wait, since they're getting that lift/axles/etc any time now anyway.

And the summer passes. And then winter comes and the jeep is pressed into taking care of the rest of the day to day needs because the other car can't handle the slippery steep driveway into the COSTCO, dog groomer......whatever. If only they could pull it out of service and put that lift, new axles, gears.....

Spring comes and the jeep hits a few tame trails-still making payments, still need to get to work. Those mods are just around the corner though......if it wasn't for the AC in the house needing work, or the fridge crapping out.

Now two years in the jeep is a fun afterthought of a car. Was never really used as intended, sadly it is now never really what they wanted. Probably just sell it and get a Cherokee or Tahoe or something.

I see it repeatedly. If you think you want the Rubicon, get the Rubicon. If you think you might, just maybe use its capability, get it. Sports are great, and very capable, but if the savings keeps you from really loving your jeep, its not savings at all.

I really think the Willys is a great compromise for people who need a daily driver but want a capable jeep for building. It is sporty enough to keep you excited, has decent gears and I know at least with us turns more heads and gets more compliments than my Rubicon.
 
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Cyclrder

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ok I'm going to go out on a limb here.. I came from 2016 JKU Winter edition that was equipped with the $595 anti spin electronic diff. I eventually lifted it 2 inches with a metalcloak lift and under armor and King Shocks. That car drove fabulously on the road, in the snow, and hung just fine with the Rubicons that I had gone east coast 4 wheel driving with....

Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. QUSY0458.JPG
Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. IMG_3782


I now have a 2020 Rubicon.

Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. 61428344191__760A2BC7-5D77-446F-B31B-4B4E4C74D624.JPG


if your intention is to rock crawl on the weekends.. well the Rubicon makes sense. If you are a skier and drive a lot in crappy weather, then one of the special editions (Freedom as an example) optioned with the "$595 Anti Spin electronic diff" is much better suited.....

My Rubi drives like shit on the road... it wanders and has a massive dead spot in the steering... Jeep will tell you that its there so that you won't break a finger when you hit a rock... (I'm trying to cure it... adjustable lower control arms, tons of castor, steering box adjustment, and next will be a steering box brace)

I will bet that one of the tamer versions is in fact a much better road car.. for example, if I don't engage the rear diff, it's basically an open diff whereas the previous car with the electronic diff would engage in the background making for a much safer and automatic situation.

Find a special edition, order up some high fenders from Quadratec, A set of 1.75" spacers or order up a set of AEV wheels /KO2 tires... and you will be set, You will be able to go 90% of the places the Rubicon will go and be much happier the other 99.5% of the time you are on the road and in snow.

You can always tell a good starting point by the OEM tires that the particular jeep comes with.... best of luck.
 

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stylett9

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I'd add that I wanted the 2.0T, and am very happy with it. Right now I'm averaging about 21 mpg on a 4 door rubicon.
 

SilentSkut

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One thing to keep in mind as well, I know a ton of people who went and bought a Sport, thinking they were going to build it up. They either eventually just sold it or traded it in on a Rubicon.
+++ This is exactly what I'm about to do, trade-in my Sport for a Rubicon.
 

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ok I'm going to go out on a limb here.. I came from 2016 JKU Winter edition that was equipped with the $595 anti spin electronic diff. I eventually lifted it 2 inches with a metalcloak lift and under armor and King Shocks. That car drove fabulously on the road, in the snow, and hung just fine with the Rubicons that I had gone east coast 4 wheel driving with....

Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. 61428344191__760A2BC7-5D77-446F-B31B-4B4E4C74D624.JPG
Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. 61428344191__760A2BC7-5D77-446F-B31B-4B4E4C74D624.JPG


I now have a 2020 Rubicon.

Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. 61428344191__760A2BC7-5D77-446F-B31B-4B4E4C74D624.JPG


if your intention is to rock crawl on the weekends.. well the Rubicon makes sense. If you are a skier and drive a lot in crappy weather, then one of the special editions (Freedom as an example) optioned with the "$595 Anti Spin electronic diff" is much better suited.....

My Rubi drives like shit on the road... it wanders and has a massive dead spot in the steering... Jeep will tell you that its there so that you won't break a finger when you hit a rock... (I'm trying to cure it... adjustable lower control arms, tons of castor, steering box adjustment, and next will be a steering box brace)

I will bet that one of the tamer versions is in fact a much better road car.. for example, if I don't engage the rear diff, it's basically an open diff whereas the previous car with the electronic diff would engage in the background making for a much safer and automatic situation.

Find a special edition, order up some high fenders from Quadratec, A set of 1.75" spacers or order up a set of AEV wheels /KO2 tires... and you will be set, You will be able to go 90% of the places the Rubicon will go and be much happier the other 99.5% of the time you are on the road and in snow.

You can always tell a good starting point by the OEM tires that the particular jeep comes with.... best of luck.
I do like the winter edition. The special editions are great usually. We love our Smoky Mountain. Just seems like OP wants a Rubicon. I agree however for most of the stuff, like driving around Chicago, the LSD and softer ride is nice.

Thats why I'd say the Willys may be a great option here, cheaper, retains some city civility, but still has an exciting jeep look and feel.

Anyway, thats a really nice looking JKU!
 

jespey

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When we drive the wife’s Rubi, we get compliments and approving looks from lots of people. It just looks damn good. It’s the alpha Jeep. Get it. You won’t regret it.
 

Uhdinator

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Well i just gotta say this.................
When the first year 2003 TJ Rubicon was introduced there was a bigger gap between a Sport/Sahara and a Rubicon.

The TJR had 4 disc brakes vice all others that had front disc/rear drum. Drums can get full of mud and need occasional cleaning and maintenance if you're in the mud a lot.

The TJR had LSD and front and rear lockers and better axles and gearing than other TJ's.

TJ's had no brake lock differential or traction control so the TJR was a big difference.

Now with traction control/BLD (which works well in my experience) and disc brakes x4 on all JL's the gap between the JLR and the other JL's is not as great. I have owned a TJR and now a JL Sport with a little lift and better tires and I go the same places I went with the TJR. I don't regret it and saved some cash. My perspective is maybe a little different as I learned the trails in a YJ with no lockers or any of the traction control features. Picking the right line when traversing obstacles (driver skills/experience) makes more difference than my TJR vs a JL Sport.
The main advantage now with a JLR vs. a JL is lower crawl speed, lower axle gearing, and stronger axles. All 3 of those are not needed for everyone. I never broke anything on my old YJ and the JL has a bit better axles.

Then again you might get the jeep bug and want to do extreme rock crawling and the Rubicon would be the ticket.

FYI: There is over 1000 posts about issues with the limited slip rear axle option. IMO the traction control/Brake lock Differential feature works well making the LSD not such a big deal other than the axle is a little better.... but is offset by all the knocking issues.

Jeep Wrangler JL New to Wranglers, trying to pick the best all around model.  Looking for insight. 2003to2018


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