New to me... they now have Orange Loctite

[Beancooker]

I switched from threadlocker blue and red to using VC-3. It has worked quite well in all applications I have applied it in.

Sponsored

 

[Kurt0]

There is green loctite too

I use green to keep motorbike rotors together.....green and up are pretty much chemical welds.

if memory serves, green needs substantial heat to remove and black has to be ground or cut.....i think black is getting into the realm of adhesives that get used to attach airliner wings to fuselages

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Green Loctite is used for fasteners already in place as it has wicking properties that are supposed to penetrate. It is low to medium strength, between purple and blue. It’s typically for small parts like set screws that you want to keep in a precise position. No heat or strength is required to break it.

 

[Kurt0]

Green Loctite is used for fasteners already in place as it has wicking properties that are supposed to penetrate. It is low to medium strength, between purple and blue. It’s typically for small parts like set screws that you want to keep in a precise position. No heat or strength is required to break it.

green is above red and requires heat. It does penetrate between threads without expanding or requiring air to cure which is why its good for brake rotors on bikes.

LOCTITE® 601 is a green, anaerobic, low viscosity, medium cure speed, dimethacrylate ester-based retaining compound suitable for a max. diametrical clearance of 0.1 mm. It is a high strength product for applications that require a permanent bond.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/be/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_601.html

and

Last on the spectrum is the Loctite 294 which is a high strength dark green fluorescent adhesive. Due to the capillary action and low viscosity, Loctite states that it works best between “engaged threads”. One benefit to this grade that is different from the others is that there is no need for disassembly before applying the adhesive. It is also great with oil coated fasteners. Loctite Green allows for removal with heat and hand tools. It’s great for preassemble fasteners, instrumentations screws, electrical connectors, and carburetors. Any threading up to 14mm can be used with this grade of Loctite threadlockers.

I believe it is possible there is some other kind of green threadlocker out there that has the capillary effect of green loctite and is very low tq requirement, because Ive read/heard this asserted before. But if we are talking about true Loctite brand green, it is very high strength and torque requirement and almost always requires heat to remove, if it removes at all. It is possible to use enough green that the two components cannot be undone at the bonded joint. I believe the Permatex brand green is the same. I almost wonder if a guy who was blue/green color blind did a blog post years ago and it is now promulgating under its own internet power, because if you use green as a substitute for blue, you could end up proper fucked.

hope that helps.

 

[DadJokes]

green is above red and requires heat. It does penetrate between threads without expanding or requiring air to cure which is why its good for brake rotors on bikes.



https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/be/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_601.html

and




I believe it is possible there is some other kind of green threadlocker out there that has the capillary effect of green loctite and is very low tq requirement, because Ive read/heard this asserted before. But if we are talking about true Loctite brand green, it is very high strength and torque requirement and almost always requires heat to remove, if it removes at all. It is possible to use enough green that the two components cannot be undone at the bonded joint. I believe the Permatex brand green is the same. I almost wonder if a guy who was blue/green color blind did a blog post years ago and it is now promulgating under its own internet power, because if you use green as a substitute for blue, you could end up proper fucked.

hope that helps.

“Engaged” threads. Green is for use after assembly which is where the wicking ability comes in and it draws up into the threads a little.. I can totally imagine an aerobic (vs anaerobic like Red, Blue, Orange, or Purple threadlocker) being a bear to remove when it’s between that much of the engaging threads! Green is for light duty applications according to the packaging despite the temp needed to remove it.

 

[Kurt0]

“Engaged” threads. Green is for use after assembly which is where the wicking ability comes in and it draws up into the threads a little.. I can totally imagine an aerobic (vs anaerobic like Red, Blue, Orange, or Purple threadlocker) being a bear to remove when it’s between that much of the engaging threads! Green is for light duty applications according to the packaging despite the temp needed to remove it.

Again, from Henkel-

It is a high strength product for applications that require a permanent bond.

 

[DadJokes]

Again,

It is a high strength product for applications that require a permanent bond.

You need to call Permatex to change their packaging then. It says light duty and if you put it on the threads... that’s incorrect use unless there’s a misunderstanding here.

 

[Kurt0]

You need to call Permatex to change their packaging then. It says light duty and if you put it on the threads... that’s incorrect use unless there’s a misunderstanding here.

we arent talking about permatex. We’re talking about loctite.

we used green in the shop to mount the rotors to carriers on bikes decelerating from nearly 200mph. They didnt always come back apart even with heat. Any amount of green will bond more strongly than the same amount of red. Being able to apply small amounts after threading is a nice feature, but it is not limited to light duty applications.

go thread two bolts into sleeves. Run a bead of red down one and a bead of green down the other, torque them both to 70lb‘s and go undo them 24hrs later and let us know what you found. Make sure whichever gets the green is something you dont care about coming undone.

 

[DadJokes]

we arent talking about permatex. We’re talking about loctite.

we used green in the shop to mount the rotors to carriers on bikes decelerating from nearly 200mph. They didnt always come back apart even with heat. Any amount of green will bond more strongly than the same amount of red. Being able to apply small amounts after threading is a nice feature, but it is not limited to light duty applications.

go thread two bolts into sleeves. Run a bead of red down one and a bead of green down the other, torque them both to 70lb‘s and go undo them 24hrs later and let us know what you found.

There’s at least two different green “loctite” products it seems. Different product numbers. We’re both correct.

 

[Chocolate Thunder]

Seems there’s some product confusion regarding the green Loctite. What my earlier post is referring to is Loctite 290, not 601 or 294 which I’m not even familiar with before reading this. Seems there are about 2 dozen different “green” Loctite products.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us...ts/blog/difference-between-threadlockers.html

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/threadlockers/loctite_290.html

 

[Kurt0]

There’s at least two different green “loctite” products it seems. Different product numbers. We’re both correct.

Yes. 601/620 and 290/294.

if you run the 294 post assembly in the manner and amount as prescribed, it isnt too bad, but applied pre thread is still pretty hard.

if you use 620 retaining compound its basically going to be a chemical weld. The two paragraphs I quoted above are the differences between 620 and 294 and I should have been more clear about that.

 

[DadJokes]

Yes. 601/620 and 290/294.

if you run the 294 post assembly in the manner and amount as prescribed, it isnt too bad, but applied pre thread is still pretty hard.

if you use 620 retaining compound its basically going to be a chemical weld. The two paragraphs I quoted above are the differences between 620 and 294 and I should have been more clear about that.

Well, in my years of automotive and other machining, the closest to permanent I needed outside of welding was sleeving a block. So I’m learning something new here.

 

[Kurt0]

Well, in my years of automotive and other machining, the closest to permanent I needed outside of welding was sleeving a block. So I’m learning something new here.

ive always wanted to sleeve a block myself. Pulling the sleeve out of a big freezer and hammering it in

edit- i might need to tap your machining expertise here soon for a little secret sauce project im working up.

Sponsored