New lift, funky symptoms. Need advice. UPDATE

JT1

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Hey all. 2021 Gladiator (I know, but you guys are way more active). Installed a Clayton 3.5", fox 2.0s and 37" Patagonia's.
I confirmed I'm at 6* caster, and both axles are centered. On the highway it drives pretty well, but it has next to no steering resistance driving straight. On cambered roads it wants to turn downhill pretty hard. Initially it crashed over broken pavement. Lowered the tires to 34# and that has calmed that issue pretty well.

So, what can I do to firm up the dead ahead steering, and keep it from trying to dive out of it's lane?
Will the steering module reset change anything? Will an adjustable damper/stabilizer help?
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Hey all. 2021 Gladiator (I know, but you guys are way more active). Installed a Clayton 3.5", fox 2.0s and 37" Patagonia's.
I confirmed I'm at 6* caster, and both axles are centered. On the highway it drives pretty well, but it has next to no steering resistance driving straight. On cambered roads it wants to turn downhill pretty hard. Initially it crashed over broken pavement. Lowered the tires to 34# and that has calmed that issue pretty well.

So, what can I do to firm up the dead ahead steering, and keep it from trying to dive out of it's lane?
Will the steering module reset change anything? Will an adjustable damper/stabilizer help?
The fox ats stabilizer will firm up the steering, but be careful on adjusting it. If you make it to firm it will counter act the caster and cause a shimmy. I just advanced mine until the steering wheel shimmied then backed it off a couple clicks. Mine landed on 17 clicks with 6.2 and 6.4 degrees caster. Also with 37s , I’d take your pressure down to 30 warm, this also will help.
 
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JT1

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The fox ats stabilizer will firm up the steering, but be careful on adjusting it. If you make it to firm it will counter act the caster and cause a shimmy. I just advanced mine until the steering wheel shimmied then backed it off a couple clicks. Mine landed on 17 clicks with 6.2 and 6.4 degrees caster. Also with 37s , I’d take your pressure down to 30 warm, this also will help.
Which version of the through shaft did you get?
Running the pats that low wears them out.. at 34, I'm pretty happy with the ride and they chalk test like they should.
 

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Which version of the through shaft did you get?
Running the pats that low wears them out.. at 34, I'm pretty happy with the ride and they chalk test like they should.
Yeah, they’re pats, they’re gonna wear out quick regardless, very soft tire, lol.
 
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JT1

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Yeah, they’re pats, they’re gonna wear out quick regardless, very soft tire, lol.
True, they definitely do. If I can get 35k out of them, it will at least allow me to pay the jeep off before I need to replace them. Plus they are a pretty narrow carcass, so I'm not too worried about running them on the stock wheels.
 

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Which version of the through shaft did you get?
Running the pats that low wears them out.. at 34, I'm pretty happy with the ride and they chalk test like they should.
Which version will depend on your steering setup, they make one that bolts to the stock JL steering, but most people running aftermarket steering use the JK version with a bolt that replaces the track bar bolt and allows you to mount SS there.
 
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JT1

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Which version will depend on your steering setup, they make one that bolts to the stock JL steering, but most people running aftermarket steering use the JK version with a bolt that replaces the track bar bolt and allows you to mount SS there.
Does the JK version also clamp to the tie rod?
 

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Does the JK version also clamp to the tie rod?
Yes, it's the axle side that varies depending on your config, you also gotta watch for differences in tie rod diameter with the aftermarket tie rods as that will effect the clamp side.
 
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JT1

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Yes, it's the axle side that varies depending on your config, you also gotta watch for differences in tie rod diameter with the aftermarket tie rods as that will effect the clamp side.
Are there advantages to one or the other? Price, performance, adjustability?
 
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JT1

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In reference to the steering stabilizer or the aftermarket steering components?
Any advantages to converting to the JK style stabilizer? Hoping that this actually helps the steering..
 

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Does the JK version also clamp to the tie rod?
The JK version is 1.5” clamp, that’s what I’m using because my synergy tie rod is 1.5”. The JL tie rod is 1-5/8” so if you plan on upgrading your tie rod make sure it’s the right diameter to fit the stabilizer you get.
 

JimLee

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Any advantages to converting to the JK style stabilizer? Hoping that this actually helps the steering..
I love it myself, it lets you dial in the steering firmness you prefer and greatly reduces bump steer. Using the Fox ATS JK version gets the stabilizer higher and more protected than the factory location, I just don't thing it will mount correctly with the factory tie rod (IIRC, haven't seen the stock setup in a couple of years).
 
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Could you have accidentally achieved zero scrub radius?

“Most vehicles will not be designed with zero scrub radius, but changes in ride height and wheel offset can unintentionally create a zero scrub radius. When scrub radius is zero, tension on the steering system is reduced and vehicle handling will tend to be unstable. Zero scrub radius also causes the tires to scrub in the opposite direction of rotation during turns (tire squirm). This has a negative effect on handling in turns and affects overall tire wear.”

Source
 
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