New driveshaft for 6 speed?

[Dzwart06]

With a 3.5 inch lift on a JLUR, it is recommended to install a new front driveshaft. I started to look at driveshafts and most of the ones I see that come with lifts are for Automatics. Is the need for a new driveshaft limited to just autos, and the 6 speed not have that as a necessary upgrade?

I am currently looking at going with an MC 3.5” GC with 37-38” MPats. Keeping stock fenders, but adding new liners (I kinda like the rough country fender liners with stock fenders). Maybe if necessary do a fender chop kit. And getting Mopar beadlocks, but just using the rings as rock rash protection. I will also do a Stabilizer relocation, and changing to 5.13 gearing. Is there anything else I am over looking?

Sponsored

 

[rustyshakelford]

You will need a front shaft!

5.13s are a great combo as well

Brett

 

[Silent Panda]

2nd on needing a front shaft.

The Metalcloak kit and 37 Patagonias are great choices, That's what I'm running. a 2.5" GC though not the 3.5".

 

[Dzwart06]

2nd on needing a front shaft.

The Metalcloak kit and 37 Patagonias are great choices, That's what I'm running. a 2.5" GC though not the 3.5".

Did you change the drive shaft with the 2.5” and have you had any issues with the 37’s and only going 2.5”? If you could redo it, would you stay with the 2.5” or would you go 3.5? I like the MC GC lifts because it included pretty much everything needed.

Until I get everything figured out I was only buying skids. So far Motobilt full belly, Mc rear dif, rancho front diffs, and a set of 4 control arm skids. And roam frame mounted slider steps (may have to redo that choice) I want to avoid doing upgrades over upgrades or tearing the same parts off multiple times.

I’m on a 3 week vacation this summer and want all my peices ready and bought to do it once and do it right.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Did you change the drive shaft with the 2.5” and have you had any issues with the 37’s and only going 2.5”? If you could redo it, would you stay with the 2.5” or would you go 3.5? I like the MC GC lifts because it included pretty much everything needed.

Until I get everything figured out I was only buying skids. So far Motobilt full belly, Mc rear dif, rancho front diffs, and a set of 4 control arm skids. And roam frame mounted slider steps (may have to redo that choice) I want to avoid doing upgrades over upgrades or tearing the same parts off multiple times.

I’m on a 3 week vacation this summer and want all my peices ready and bought to do it once and do it right.

For MC, there’s no difference in shock lenghts between the 2.5” and 3.5”. Both will need driveshafts.

Brett

 

[Silent Panda]

Did you change the drive shaft with the 2.5” and have you had any issues with the 37’s and only going 2.5”? If you could redo it, would you stay with the 2.5” or would you go 3.5?.

check out the pics in my posts from EJS. I have no issues on 37’s...I have about 10-11k miles on my setup and would not change a single thing in the suspension.

Just like Brett said the only difference is the spring...they both have the same down travel. The 3.5” will just ride higher. They both need driveshafts UNLESS you buy a 30” extended length shock with 12” of travel.

Fwiw - I did an Undecloak for the underside and Ace Engineering Nightrunner for the rocker protection. My driveshafts are from JE Reel. Jim Reel is a great dude.

 

[MarkY3130]

I have most of what you listed. MC 3.5 GC, Milestar Patagonias 37x12.5, Mopar simulated beadlocks, 4.88 gears, 6 speed trans, etc.

I tore the rubber boot on the stock front driveshaft before I installed the Adams driveshafts. I had them sitting in the garage waiting on install for a month or so. I tore the boot ON-ROAD driving through snow. Though I likely damaged it letting the axle droop during other installations. I wasn’t exactly looking out for it knowing I was going to replace it.

Long story short, yes, you need to replace it.

 

[Dzwart06]

Ok another noob question, on my mitsu, when I lifted it, I adjusted the bump stops a bit and added limiting straps. So far I swapped out the stock bump stops with MC durospring stops. I am assuming you guys have dialed in additional stops and straps? What did you guys use? As I said being both my weekend trail ride and daily driver I am hoping not to spend a lot of down time and do the correct mods in one shot.

 

[scrape]

Ok another noob question, on my mitsu, when I lifted it, I adjusted the bump stops a bit and added limiting straps. So far I swapped out the stock bump stops with MC durospring stops. I am assuming you guys have dialed in additional stops and straps? What did you guys use? As I said being both my weekend trail ride and daily driver I am hoping not to spend a lot of down time and do the correct mods in one shot.

Bump out your jeep with the "durospring" things removed. Those will collapse under the weight of the jeep and don't really limit up-travel. MC lift kits come with "hard" bump stops that you will need to install to prevent your tires from taking out your fenders, or to prevent the shocks bottoming out, whichever comes first.

Then as far as strapping goes, it's generally fine to use the shock as a limiting strap for trail riding/crawling. I would assume that MC springs are long enough to accommodate their shocks while still maintaining a few inches of preload. So long as your brake lines, abs sensors, bar links, and driveshafts are good to go, you don't have to worry about strapping. And all that should be fine with the exception of the front driveshaft, which you are already aware of.

 

[Dzwart06]

I have most of what you listed. MC 3.5 GC, Milestar Patagonias 37x12.5, Mopar simulated beadlocks, 4.88 gears, 6 speed trans, etc.

I tore the rubber boot on the stock front driveshaft before I installed the Adams driveshafts. I had them sitting in the garage waiting on install for a month or so. I tore the boot ON-ROAD driving through snow. Though I likely damaged it letting the axle droop during other installations. I wasn’t exactly looking out for it knowing I was going to replace it.

Long story short, yes, you need to replace it.

Do you happen to have the part # for the Adams Driveshaft? I know MC offers a driveshaft as an option with the GC but I’m not sure if that one is for autos only or is interchangeable with manual transmissions. Or if Manila’s use a different length etc. seems Adams is pretty highly regarded in the Jeep community. Or if there are others out there I should be looking at also?

 

[jlewissystem]

Do you happen to have the part # for the Adams Driveshaft? I know MC offers a driveshaft as an option with the GC but I’m not sure if that one is for autos only or is interchangeable with manual transmissions. Or if Manila’s use a different length etc. seems Adams is pretty highly regarded in the Jeep community. Or if there are others out there I should be looking at also?

I believe the MC one sold IS the Adams...1310 or 1350(heavy duty). Auto/manual: doesn’t matter....all the same.

 

[MarkY3130]

Adams makes you measure and then call them with the measurement. I don’t recall the length. Sequence would be to install the lift, let it settle for a few days (drive it!), then measure and order. They have a guide on their webpage for how to take the measurement. I bought the 1310 front and 1350 rear.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I believe the MC one sold IS the Adams...1310 or 1350(heavy duty). Auto/manual: doesn’t matter....all the same.

They are not Adams, they are made my a local company out of Cali close to MC. Only offer 1310s but they are a great shaft!

Adams is top in the game, 1350s are beefy!

Brett

 

[Silent Panda]

Do you happen to have the part # for the Adams Driveshaft? I know MC offers a driveshaft as an option with the GC but I’m not sure if that one is for autos only or is interchangeable with manual transmissions. Or if Manila’s use a different length etc. seems Adams is pretty highly regarded in the Jeep community. Or if there are others out there I should be looking at also?

I am partial to JE Reel. I have 1350's front and rear. Call Jim Reel. He is a super nice man and fun to shoot the shit with. They are in Pomona, Ca. The Adams guys are also good to the Jeep community.

The 1310 part number is: 3118JL-OE-24FM

Tell him what you have and what your building. 909-629-9002

here is my install thread: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...on-update-6-1350-goodness-from-je-reel.40392/

 

[Therby]

This thread peaked my interest.
I have a 2dr manual, 4.56 gears.

rubbing aevs 2.5” dualsport. But got closer to 3”

im looking at adding control arms in the future to ditch the drop brackets and correct rear pinion angle. This will lead to longer shocks, which then will lead to driveshafts.

how come aev doesn’t advertise you need shafts now as it sits, shock length?

Sponsored