New 392 Owners Upgrades & Mods

[Nater34]

Thanks so much. You have to also get shocks with them as well right? Do you think both would improve the on the road mannerisms equally? I don’t plan on doing any rock crawling and the like.

Haven’t installed but I ordered the Metalcloak 3.5” GC last week. It’s already shipped. It’ll get here before my 392XR does

I was dead set on the Clayton Overland+ kit for a while but was ultimately swayed to Metalcloak due to their bushing design (arguably the best non-Johnny joints in the industry) and their coil spring design. I wanted as much flex as I could get and their joints offer that, they offer more misalignment capability (more flex) than Clayton. Also, they are easily replaceable down the road. Remove the c-clip, use a hammer/socket to remove the joint. I’ve seen videos of people removing their MC joints with 50K miles on them and they came out easily. The Clayton joints will have to be pressed out/pressed in. This is a big deal to me because while both companies market these as “lifetime” joints, if you’re regularly flexing them out and using the lifts for their intended purpose you will likely have to replace bushings at some point (40-50K miles). I prefer bushings that are easily replaceable. Metalcloak has stackable bump stops to fine tune your bump travel, the Clayton kit uses set bumpstops. Finally, I like that MC uses dual rate coil springs to ensure proper spring tension when the axle is fully drooped out.

You will have to get a new front driveshaft with both the MC 2.5 & 3.5” GC kits and the Clayton 3.5” kit. I’m going with Adams 1350s front/rear on my 392XR. Hope this helped! Check out the videos on Metalcloak’s website about their joints and coil spring design.

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[MSparks909]

Thanks so much. You have to also get shocks with them as well right? Do you think both would improve the on the road mannerisms equally? I don’t plan on doing any rock crawling and the like.

No problem. Another thing I forgot to mention is if you do go with the Metalcloak and want to use different shocks than their Rocksport or 6 packs then you’ll need to choose shocks with ~18” compressed/30” extended lengths. I chose Accutune valved Fox 2.0 remote reservoir shocks (4.5-6” lift front shocks; 3-4” lift rear shocks). You’ll need to select the offset shock mount option from Metalcloak too when ordering your lift (also applies if you choose their Rocksport shocks). Also recommend the $30 front coil relocation pads so you don’t get coil spring bow.

 

[guarnibl]

Haven’t installed but I ordered the Metalcloak 3.5” GC last week. It’s already shipped. It’ll get here before my 392XR does

I was dead set on the Clayton Overland+ kit for a while but was ultimately swayed to Metalcloak due to their bushing design (arguably the best non-Johnny joints in the industry) and their coil spring design. I wanted as much flex as I could get and their joints offer that, they offer more misalignment capability (more flex) than Clayton. Also, they are easily replaceable down the road. Remove the c-clip, use a hammer/socket to remove the joint. I’ve seen videos of people removing their MC joints with 50K miles on them and they came out easily. The Clayton joints will have to be pressed out/pressed in. This is a big deal to me because while both companies market these as “lifetime” joints, if you’re regularly flexing them out and using the lifts for their intended purpose you will likely have to replace bushings at some point (40-50K miles). I prefer bushings that are easily replaceable. Metalcloak has stackable bump stops to fine tune your bump travel, the Clayton kit uses set bumpstops. Finally, I like that MC uses dual rate coil springs to ensure proper spring tension when the axle is fully drooped out.

You will have to get a new front driveshaft with both the MC 2.5 & 3.5” GC kits and the Clayton 3.5” kit. I’m going with Adams 1350s front/rear on my 392XR. Hope this helped! Check out the videos on Metalcloak’s website about their joints and coil spring design.

Yeah I’m about to drop that hammer and purchase as well lol. Likely will combine with fox 3.0’s but all of this depends on how back ordered 39’s are.

 

[Nater34]

Yeah I’m about to drop that hammer and purchase as well lol. Likely will combine with fox 3.0’s but all of this depends on how back ordered 39’s are.

It seems like quite a bit of an overhaul with the metalcloaks. Question if I were to just do the Clayton 2.5” to add 1.5” would I not need new drive shafts, could use stock shocks and etc then just keep my wheels and mount to some 37’s? Or at that point does it not really make sense to even do the Clayton’s? My 392 will be mostly on road with light off-roading and Costco curb pimping.

 

[guarnibl]

It seems like quite a bit of an overhaul with the metalcloaks. Question if I were to just do the Clayton 2.5” to add 1.5” would I not need new drive shafts, could use stock shocks and etc then just keep my wheels and mount to some 37’s? Or at that point does it not really make sense to even do the Clayton’s? My 392 will be mostly on road with light off-roading and Costco curb pimping.

I’d leave it stock. Worst case you swap some XR wheels on it to clear 37’s without spacers or you just add some wheel spacers. Just be done with it.

 

[MSparks909]

It seems like quite a bit of an overhaul with the metalcloaks. Question if I were to just do the Clayton 2.5” to add 1.5” would I not need new drive shafts, could use stock shocks and etc then just keep my wheels and mount to some 37’s? Or at that point does it not really make sense to even do the Clayton’s? My 392 will be mostly on road with light off-roading and Costco curb pimping.

That’s the route I’d go if I wanted to clear 37s. Do you have the 392XR or the standard 392? Reason I ask is if you have the “standard” 392 you’ll need wheel spacers to clear 37s with your factory wheels. Clayton 2.5” kit with their Fox shocks would be a solid option. If you wanted to save money you could throw on a 1.5-2” spacer kit, bumpstops and shock extensions.

 

[MSparks909]

Yeah I’m about to drop that hammer and purchase as well lol. Likely will combine with fox 3.0’s but all of this depends on how back ordered 39’s are.

Throwing 39s on the stock axles? Or upgrading those too? I’m trying to be practical, 37s will do everything I need to do but I know I’ll always want to go bigger down the road. UD60s and 39s would be a kickass setup

 

[guarnibl]

Throwing 39s on the stock axles? Or upgrading those too? I’m trying to be practical, 37s will do everything I need to do but I know I’ll always want to go bigger down the road. UD60s and 39s would be a kickass setup

Dana 70’s front rear. Likely will run some 39 KO2’s on stock axles to start though until they get here. I prefer 39’s for Moab but you’re absolutely right. Ask me tomorrow I’m sure I’ll change my mind a few times haha.

 

[Nater34]

That’s the route I’d go if I wanted to clear 37s. Do you have the 392XR or the standard 392? Reason I ask is if you have the “standard” 392 you’ll need wheel spacers to clear 37s with your factory wheels. Clayton 2.5” kit with their Fox shocks would be a solid option. If you wanted to save money you could throw on a 1.5-2” spacer kit, bumpstops and shock extensions.

Yep I just have the standard 392 and haven’t really done any mod yet except for few interior things, stubby ant and the sky top liner.

 

[MSparks909]

Yep I just have the standard 392 and haven’t really done any mod yet except for few interior things, stubby ant and the sky top liner.

1.75” wheel spacers will be fine for stock wheels and 37s. Check out this guy’s lift install. Stock wheels, 37” Nitto’s, Clayton 2.5” lift:

 

[Nater34]

1.75” wheel spacers will be fine for stock wheels and 37s. Check out this guy’s lift install. Stock wheels, 37” Nitto’s, Clayton 2.5” lift:

Thanks, Yep that’s the video is where I started looking at these and his break kit he did but now it seems like people think the MC’s are the way to go but then seemed like that was opening a can of replacement worms so now just not sure

 

[alksion]

I still don’t feel like I need a kit just yet. I need to push my 392 further with my BFG K02 37s.

 

[Ct_Formula]

I still don’t feel like I need a kit just yet. I need to push my 392 further with my BFG K02 37s.

Thanks J! I've STILL not taken delivery and I'm going nuts over lift or not and which one to go with.

HOPEFULLY 12 days and I'm finally in the drivers seat

 

[alksion]

Thanks J! I've STILL not taken delivery and I'm going nuts over lift or not and which one to go with.

HOPEFULLY 12 days and I'm finally in the drivers seat

Amen. I’m excited for you. I hope it gets here soon!!! I’m sure I will lift it at some point, but as of now it’s been handling as I need it off road and especially towing on the trails.

 

[Ct_Formula]

Amen. I’m excited for you. I hope it gets here soon!!! I’m sure I will lift it at some point, but as of now it’s been handling as I need it off road and especially towing on the trails.

Thanks Josiah, I always wait with baited breath for all your posts lol

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