New 2 door rubicon needs advice

sourdough

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A Mopar lift and 35's is a good functioning choice for most who daily drive their JLR. Mine(JLR) is not a DD'r and I run 37's and am very happy with the function. BTW, I have found no need for regearing(auto)or aftermarket fenders and liners(rubicon). That money is better spent on steering up grades and suspension links.
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Aframedweller

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I have 35s on my 2 door manual Rubicon. All is good, but maintaining freeway speeds on some mountain ascents can be a little challenging. Sometimes 3rd gear at 55mph, which is still not close to redline. 35s seem to be the sweet spot for doing harder California trails and still commuting.
 
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ChadTx

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I have 35s on my 2 door manual Rubicon. All is good, but maintaining freeway speeds on some mountain ascents can be a little challenging. Sometimes 3rd gear at 55mph, which is still not close to redline. 35s seem to be the sweet spot for doing harder California trails and still commuting.
Do you have pictures of ur rig u can post? Have u had any issues on some of the harder trails?
 

kharland17

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i am running 305/70/17s toyo 10 ply at3s on my stock rubicon. also have the 392 rims so its running the +44 offset. measures around 34.5 inches. my commute is from central California to the bay area. 123 miles 1 way. 74 mph in 8th works for me. love the stance and can still clear things.
 
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ChadTx

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How did
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No real issues on harder trails. It just did the entire Rubicon and came back home doing 85mph most the way.
How did it do on the rubicon? I’m guessing pretty good if u could drive it 85 back home.
 

kharland17

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Dam that looks good! Ever take it down any trails?
Yeah mostly in the eastern Sierras and a local trail in the Bay Area, handles like a champ and no rubbing. This is my 4th Jeep and honestly love this setup.
 

Aframedweller

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How did

How did it do on the rubicon? I’m guessing pretty good if u could drive it 85 back home.
It worked awesome on the Rubicon. You can’t get away with a lot of rock to skid plate contact on that trail even with 37s. JLs are still a real Jeep.
 

jimbo30127

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35s No lift drives perfect no rubbing unless you got crazy flexing going on
 

Cowboy from hell

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Just curious but what does the mopar 2.5" lift cost to purchase and install from the dealer? Will it have a warranty if installed by dealership?
 

rubiRI77

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35 11.5 R17 Nitto's (skinny 35's) No lift. So far no rubbing, but I have not wheeled it yet. My plan (if I ever to get time to install them) is to add 3/4" coil spacers, and 1-1/2" bump stops. I am hoping that should be about right to keep the lift to a minimum, and still be able to wheel some pretty tough trails, and still have a very reasonable daily driver.
I also wanted to keep my stock wheels because I really like the look, and also to save some cash for other mods. Also, I like the tucked in look. Some of the ones with lots of offset stick out too much for my taste.
I have a 2.0, with the automatic. I have noticed very little loss of peppiness. However, I would be lying if I said it has lost none. But, I have also added a decent amount of skid plates, so my plan to keep this one as light as possible is slowly slipping away...Haha.
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Whaler27

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Kind of. Ur saying bc the 37 is physically taller it has more inertia going down the road thus putting more stress on the components of the Jeep?
One way to understand this conceptually is a full rotation on a 37” tire moves the Jeep farther than one rotation on a 35” tire. The engine is doing more “work” with each revolution. If you look at the sprocket/gearing on your bicycle in terms of pedaling difficulty and distance traveled per rotation it may also help. For me, that’s a helpful way to think of the “power-drain“, but everything about the larger tire also imparts increased stresses on the steering components and accelerates wear over time. Having said that, the difference between a 35” and a 37” tire isn’t huge — particularly if it’s the comparatively light (and short) BFG KO2.

I have the Mopar lift. Installation is straightforward, but this time I opted for dealer installation for three reasons. 1) I’m getting old, and lying on the concrete wrenching for hours hurts more, and 2) 95% of the Mopar lift complaints came from folks who did their own installation, and 3) I wanted to retain full warranty coverage without argument. The lift has been great, but I did swap in LCAs and a yeti to perfect the steering.

I ran 315s for a while, but I’ve been running 37” BFG KO2s for more than a year. Drives great. Plenty of pep. My JL with the stock 4:10 gearing has MUCH more pep in every situation than my old TJ with 456 gearing and 33s. (I have a 2019 JLUR with the 6: my brother, also running 37s on his 2019 JLUR, has the 2.0 and feels the same way.) We live in Oregon and Colorado respectively, both run in the mountains, and we have no shortage of power. If I had money to burn I’d probably go to 456, or maybe even 488 gearing, because it would restore closer to OEM gearing, provide more low end grunt, and make better use of overdrive, but it’s a very low priority. (My next big purchase, for the Jeep is the Alcon brakes. After seeing the improvement on my brother’s Jeep I really want them, but I can do a lot of hunting, fishing, and diving for $4,000, so it may be a while before I pull the trigger on the brakes.)

With the shorter wheelbase of the two-door I would favor the 35s, especially if it’s a DD, but the 37s have been a great choice for us.

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davewald

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Just curious but what does the mopar 2.5" lift cost to purchase and install from the dealer? Will it have a warranty if installed by dealership?
The 2" Mopar lift has been selling for anywhere from $1400-1700...if you can find them. I got mine from MoparOnline Parts. I have quotes from my local dealer of 2-3 hours of labor, and from 4 Wheel Parts for 6 hours of labor. Both are booked out for a month, so I'm going to install it myself and save the $400-800 for more Jeep goodies. Installation looks fairly straightforward, instructions are easy to follow and there are lots of YT videos and helpful people on these forums.
 
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