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Need to recalibrate/flash computer after regearing?

WildCatguy

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I have a Sport/MT and stock 3.45 gears with 35’s.

I’m thinking of re-gearing to 4.56 or 4.88.

Do you need to do anything to the computer after the install? Recalibrate? Will a programmer get this done.

Thank you for your help.
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Arterius2

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I have a Sport/MT and stock 3.45 gears with 35’s.

I’m thinking of re-gearing to 4.56 or 4.88.

Do you need to do anything to the computer after the install? Recalibrate? Will a programmer get this done.

Thank you for your help.
Yes, need to flash with tazer or flashcal to the correct gear ratio.
 

Arterius2

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Any preference from the 2? Looks like Flashcal is less $.
Get the tazer, I currently have flashcal and it’s given me nothing but problems, and customer support is non-existent. Upside is that they do have a screen and dedicated buttons. Now if you insist on flashcal, I got mine to sell you for a good price. :giggle:
 
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Rploaded

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If you’re going to spend the money on regearing, you many want to look into upgrading axles to Rubicons. Might end up being a bit more but you would get lockers etc.
 
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Squibbles

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If you’re going to spend the money on regearing, you many want to look into upgrading axles to Rubicons. Might end up being a bit more but you would get lockers etc.
It’s pretty easy to buy a locker, during the regear would be the time to do it. If he’d be satisfied with 4:10s the Rubicon take offs would be good but I’m not sure how easily the lockers would work. He can get a lunchbox for a few hundred bucks for the rear and one that engages by cable for the front for around 800. I think the front has 29 spline axles, 35’s shouldn’t break them.
 

Rploaded

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It’s pretty easy to buy a locker, during the regear would be the time to do it. If he’d be satisfied with 4:10s the Rubicon take offs would be good but I’m not sure how easily the lockers would work. He can get a lunchbox for a few hundred bucks for the rear and one that engages by cable for the front for around 800. I think the front has 29 spline axles, 35’s shouldn’t break them.
Lockers just need two wires hooked up. He could use any switch or an SPOD.

I would take stronger axles over gears in the smaller Dana axle in a sport.
 
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ZONA.OVRLND

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I have the Tazer JL Lite and it hasn't caused any issues. Used it to make a few adjustments with tires size, and a few other things. I have a rubicon with stock axles so haven't messed around with gearing yet, but the option to change the gear ratio is there.
 

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Squibbles

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My guess is 4K. But he could bolt them on himself in a garage. Gears is a bit more challenging and a shop job.
It’s really not challenging, doing it on something IFS is a pain because you have to drop the diff but straight axles are pretty straight forward. I’ve done it myself and taken the diff and ring gear to the shop to have them pressed on. However buying the gears is easily 1-2k, so buying lockers on top of that it could exceed the price of the Rubi take offs and require a lot more work. I’d probably opt for the Rubicon axles.
 

jdubya421

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I am right there with you on my Sport. I think the best course of action right now for me is Rubi take offs. The 4.10 and upgraded axles can handle 35s perfectly fine and you can wire the lockers to any switch. You can even get the dash panels that have integrated switches.

I just don't think it is worth the money to re-gear the Sport axles. Even with the D44 in the rear because of the manual, I believe the axle shafts are not upgraded. You are gonna spend 2ish grand on a re-gear when you could spend 4ish grand and get lockers, better axle housings/shafts, and a shorter gearing.

I didn't realize how much I would get into wheeling and I honestly regret not getting a Rubicon at this point.
 

Almost

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Get the tazer, I currently have flashcal and it’s given me nothing but problems, and customer support is non-existent. Upside is that they do have a screen and dedicated buttons. Now if you insist on flashcal, I got mine to sell you for a good price. :giggle:
Interesting, I have dealt with superchips on two separate occasions and they have been very helpful. One time my superchip lost my stock tune, they pushed a new one to me and problem solved. All I had to do was plug it into a computer and it did everything itself. I also had a wiring issue where the cable was coming out the bottom, I called and they had me send it in and fixed it and sent it back at no cost. They actually fixed mine vs replacing it with a new one and it's still good 4 years later.
 

Arterius2

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Interesting, I have dealt with superchips on two separate occasions and they have been very helpful. One time my superchip lost my stock tune, they pushed a new one to me and problem solved. All I had to do was plug it into a computer and it did everything itself. I also had a wiring issue where the cable was coming out the bottom, I called and they had me send it in and fixed it and sent it back at no cost. They actually fixed mine vs replacing it with a new one and it's still good 4 years later.
Understandable.
I think your issues were relatively simple and straightforward to deal with vs what I was having.

It messed up CANBUS system and faulted several sensors of my Jeep when I went to reset to stock, on several occasions and I had to take my Jeep in to the dealers to fix it, and my auto headlight sensor is still faulty on the Jeep, and they have yet to get back to me on any of these issues.
 

wrangster

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You should have bought a Rubicon, or maybe your dealer will give you a fair trade out.
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