Need advice. Regear,lockers,ultimate 44

[Gaxmode]

first Jeep.. bought a sahara and now I need to correct my mistakes

So I have the Dana 44 rear and Dana 30 front.

Price to regear front and rear to 4.88 and add Eaton e-locker to rear ~$3000


Price to regear rear and Eaton e-locker in the rear $2000
Price for ultimate Dana 44 up front with 4.88 and elocker ~$4000... so $6000 for both.

This price includes parts/labor.

I like to wheel at rausch creek and aoaa usually blues. I’m also getting that rotational clunking noise from my rear diff that so many people with nonrubicon 44s are having issues with...


I’m having a hard time justifying sinking $1,000 into a Dana 30 to regear and would be lockerless. Please drop knowledge and insight on me, thanks.

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[ChattVol]

How big of a lift/tires do you think you want to run and what transmission do you have? I can identify with wanting stronger axles/gearing/lockers and evaluated benefits of swapping from jlus axles to ultimate d44 or jlur d44 takeoffs. Ended up going with takeoffs bc I was able to get both axles with rubi brakes/draglink/tie rod delivered for $3800. I sold my sport takeoff m186 and m200 axles for $1500...so $3800-$1500= $2300 net cost for d44 axles. Labor was $750 for 1 mechanic and a mechanically minded friend doing the swap which included RK lift install. I helped as the grunt.

The 4:1 rubi transfer case is the expensive mod($2500 new plus $1k core charge)that I'm hunting a rare takeoff to help with climbing. The sport/sahara t case is 2.72:1 ratio and the rubi t case is 4:1, which makes a noticeable difference...especially with a 6 speed. I have to feather the clutch a goid bit if I want to climb slowly and not stall. Here's my build thread if you're interested:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/billet-stallion-sport-s-full-d44-swap.19973/

 

[ChattVol]

Also...here is a solid build thread that started with your same d44 rear and m186 front axle and swapped to ultimate d44 in the front. @intentsrig is good about providing insight.

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/intentsrig-jlu-sport.6998/

 

[intentsrig]

Yeah, as chattvol said it can get expensive! The dealer did match the online price I found for the t case at 1800 so that was nice of him.

I really like the UD44 and I also didn’t want to sink any money into the d30.

Although I bought a base sport with the intentions of adding all of this stuff. Even if I had bought a rubi I still would have needed bumpers, sliders, skid plates, wheels, tires etc.

Are you auto or manual?

 

[Jeepjunkie]

Yeah, as chattvol said it can get expensive! The dealer did match the online price I found for the t case at 1800 so that was nice of him.

I really like the UD44 and I also didn’t want to sink any money into the d30.

Although I bought a base sport with the intentions of adding all of this stuff. Even if I had bought a rubi I still would have needed bumpers, sliders, skid plates, wheels, tires etc.

Are you auto or manual?

This my route, I also have a sport, 6-Speed manual. 33s on the street, 34 or skinny 35s for the trail. I plan on regearing to at least 4.56s, adding a PR44 front, and front/rear ARBs. I’ve been following intensrig here and on other forums.
I also wheel on the east coast and I’m not sure I need the 4:1 tcase... I have it on my TJ, and find 1st to be very low. I hope I don’t eat my words on the JL 2.72 tcase.

 

[intentsrig]

This my route, I also have a sport, 6-Speed manual. 33s on the street, 34 or skinny 35s for the trail. I plan on regearing to at least 4.56s, adding a PR44 front, and front/rear ARBs. I’ve been following intensrig here and on other forums.
I also wheel on the east coast and I’m not sure I need the 4:1 tcase... I have it on my TJ, and find 1st to be very low. I hope I don’t eat my words on the JL 2.72 tcase.

I was fine all last summer on 35's, 3.45 gearing and the sport t case. I just recently went to a local OHV park and climbed a big cement ledge 3 level pyramid with rocks and immediately decided I needed the 4-1 case. I stalled twice near the top and it was nerve racking being a bit sideways on huge ledges trying to feather the clutch..I mean I got up no problem but Id rather not struggle haha

 

[Gaxmode]

Yeah, as chattvol said it can get expensive! The dealer did match the online price I found for the t case at 1800 so that was nice of him.

I really like the UD44 and I also didn’t want to sink any money into the d30.

Although I bought a base sport with the intentions of adding all of this stuff. Even if I had bought a rubi I still would have needed bumpers, sliders, skid plates, wheels, tires etc.

Are you auto or manual?

3.6 auto.

 

[Gaxmode]

How big of a lift/tires do you think you want to run and what transmission do you have? I can identify with wanting stronger axles/gearing/lockers and evaluated benefits of swapping from jlus axles to ultimate d44 or jlur d44 takeoffs. Ended up going with takeoffs bc I was able to get both axles with rubi brakes/draglink/tie rod delivered for $3800. I sold my sport takeoff m186 and m200 axles for $1500...so $3800-$1500= $2300 net cost for d44 axles. Labor was $750 for 1 mechanic and a mechanically minded friend doing the swap which included RK lift install. I helped as the grunt.

The 4:1 rubi transfer case is the expensive mod($2500 new plus $1k core charge)that I'm hunting a rare takeoff to help with climbing. The sport/sahara t case is 2.72:1 ratio and the rubi t case is 4:1, which makes a noticeable difference...especially with a 6 speed. I have to feather the clutch a goid bit if I want to climb slowly and not stall. Here's my build thread if you're interested:

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/billet-stallion-sport-s-full-d44-swap.19973/

Currently running 35s. Possibly 37s next year.

 

[Therby]

I was fine all last summer on 35's, 3.45 gearing and the sport t case. I just recently went to a local OHV park and climbed a big cement ledge 3 level pyramid with rocks and immediately decided I needed the 4-1 case. I stalled twice near the top and it was nerve racking being a bit sideways on huge ledges trying to feather the clutch..I mean I got up no problem but Id rather not struggle haha

Manual transmission on 35s?

I have a sport 2dr with 315/70 duratracs, smallest and lightest tire in that size. Mounted off the jeep they measure a little
More than 34 1/4” tall.

Should be fine for a year till i can upgrade the front axle and do 4.88s?

 

[intentsrig]

Manual transmission on 35s?

I have a sport 2dr with 315/70 duratracs, smallest and lightest tire in that size. Mounted off the jeep they measure a little
More than 34 1/4” tall.

Should be fine for a year till i can upgrade the front axle and do 4.88s?

Yeah manual with 35 stt pros. Oh yeah it’ll be fine. You’ll notice it a but it won’t be bad. I drove for a year or so with stock gears.

 

[Therby]

Yeah manual with 35 stt pros. Oh yeah it’ll be fine. You’ll notice it a but it won’t be bad. I drove for a year or so with stock gears.

What gears are you on now? 4.88?

 

[intentsrig]

What gears are you on now? 4.88?

5.13’s

 

[Therby]

5.13’s

On 35s? How is that? Or you have intentions of going 37?

I’m thinking 4.88 is almost too much for 35s

 

[ChattVol]

On 35s? How is that? Or you have intentions of going 37?

I’m thinking 4.88 is almost too much for 35s

4.56 is solid if you're staying on 35s. 4.88 for 37s

 

[intentsrig]

On 35s? How is that? Or you have intentions of going 37?

I’m thinking 4.88 is almost too much for 35s

Ohh sorry no I am on 37’s now. I went for performance over mileage. Past two tanks are basically all city and I got 15mpg. That’s on winter gas too. I’d have stayed 5.13’s even with 35’s. Going on a trip this weekend. I think I’ll around 17mpg long distance.

65-70 it’s only at 2200-2300 rpm with 37’s. I really like the performance and I don’t even have to use the gas/clutch combo when I start in first. Just let it out and I start rolling lol. Helps in traffic it creeps along at 2mph.

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