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Need advice on putting MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392

HoneyBadgerFE

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I'm looking to put the MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 and have a few questions:

#1 For tires I know I'm going with the KM3's and planned on running the 37's, but now I'm considering the 39's. What pro/con advice would you have for the 39's?

#2 The MetalCloak GC 3.5" offers the option for a new front driveshaft from them. Would you go with that option from them or select a different vendor for the driveshaft?

Any other feedback would be greatly appreciated as well, thanks!

4189762D-C0E8-43F3-98A0-7E99A0331F22.jpeg
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MORubi

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I believe trimming the rear pinch seam may still be required for full flex with the 39’s. That’s what made me shy away. Not ready yet. Maybe once my 37’s wear out. Also, have heard some mixed reviews on the KM3’s. Mostly good until they have 15k-20k miles on them. Then they get loud. They also supposedly wear quicker than most. Good luck!
 

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I suggest you wheel it off road a few times stock before you decide to go with the biggest tire size a given lift height will allow. You may find the 3" of stock of up travel just fine or you may be like me and be on the bump stops way too easily.

If you stuff a maximum sized tire under your lift you won’t gain any travel. I’m about 90% of the way through putting a 2.5” lift on my 392 to gain travel, not tire height. Planning on staying on the 35’s until they wear out and if I do upsize in the future it’ll be small 37’s so that wheel travel does t take too much of a hit from the extra bump stops needed.

Oil line represents full travel on a stock 392.
BB01CAF6-49E2-4142-86A5-058509B2757E.jpeg


2.5” Clayton lift installed. Not settled yet so it’s still over final height.
8EBA194E-7A40-420B-B956-2B8391BAEC9A.jpeg
 

guarnibl

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I suggest you wheel it off road a few times stock before you decide to go with the biggest tire size a given lift height will allow. You may find the 3" of stock of up travel just fine or you may be like me and be on the bump stops way too easily.

If you stuff a maximum sized tire under your lift you won’t gain any travel. I’m about 90% of the way through putting a 2.5” lift on my 392 to gain travel, not tire height. Planning on staying on the 35’s until they wear out and if I do upsize in the future it’ll be small 37’s so that wheel travel does t take too much of a hit from the extra bump stops needed.

Oil line represents full travel on a stock 392.
Jeep Wrangler JL Need advice on putting MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 8EBA194E-7A40-420B-B956-2B8391BAEC9A


2.5” Clayton lift installed. Not settled yet so it’s still over final height.
Jeep Wrangler JL Need advice on putting MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 8EBA194E-7A40-420B-B956-2B8391BAEC9A
Jack stand matches perfectly. Ha.

Let us know how it rides with the new coil/shock combination (assume those are Fox 2.5's?). Does Clayton use JJs?
 

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I'm looking to put the MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 and have a few questions:

#1 For tires I know I'm going with the KM3's and planned on running the 37's, but now I'm considering the 39's. What pro/con advice would you have for the 39's?

#2 The MetalCloak GC 3.5" offers the option for a new front driveshaft from them. Would you go with that option from them or select a different vendor for the driveshaft?
I'm watching this thread VERY closely, I'm looking for the same lift. Just not sure which to go with 37's or 39's
 

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MSparks909

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39s will require a decent bit of trimming, especially in the rear. Definitely on the pinch seam. A fender chop would be wise too along with new fender liners front/rear to minimize rubbing. And 3.5” BS wheels. If you stick with 37s you can run your stock wheels for a while. As far as driveshafts go, I’d go aftermarket 1350 front/rear. I’m actually calling Adams today to place an order.

I’ve got the Metalcloak 3.5” GC in my garage ready to be installed. Have a trip to Windrock, TN planned for Valentine’s Day so the lift/driveshafts have to be on by then. Pairing mine with 37” Trail Grapplers. Think 37s are the sweet spot for a daily driver/wheeling JL. I may jump up to 39s/40s down the road but I want to see what this thing can do on 37s before I go that route.
 

guarnibl

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39s will require a decent bit of trimming, especially in the rear. Definitely on the pinch seam. A fender chop would be wise too along with new fender liners front/rear to minimize rubbing. And 3.5” BS wheels. If you stick with 37s you can run your stock wheels for a while. As far as driveshafts go, I’d go aftermarket 1350 front/rear. I’m actually calling Adams today to place an order.

I’ve got the Metalcloak 3.5” GC in my garage ready to be installed. Have a trip to Windrock, TN planned for Valentine’s Day so the lift/driveshafts have to be on by then. Pairing mine with 37” Trail Grapplers. Think 37s are the sweet spot for a daily driver/wheeling JL. I may jump up to 39s/40s down the road but I want to see what this thing can do on 37s before I go that route.
Agreed on 37's. 39's are nice but I would absolutely not want those on a daily. Right now I'm debating what I want to do. I'm thinking though that I'm just going to run 37" KM3's with an additional spacer lift for the time being on mine... see how it does in Moab this year on Cliffhanger/Pritchett and go from there. I'm not convinced the extra 1" of clearance you gain from 39's is really worth the trade offs. IMO, at that point I'd just jump to axles and run 42's for long wheeling trips. Wait and see approach is best though after owning so many of these vehicles.

Sounds like I'll be trimming the pinch seam anyway when I install my AEV JL rear bumper/tire carrier setup. It would also be nice to retain the ability to use the fuel caddy which is 10 gal and works up through a 37" tire.
 

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I had the MC 4.5 Game changer on my JKUR Recon. I LOVE that lift. It gave so much flex and the ride was great. I did opt for the drive shaft replacement with it. I did this because I spoke with them about their lift kits for hours. This is what they suggest and they are the engineers behind it. After wheeling on it for a while, I replaced my rear drive shaft as well because the amount of flex I got out of it cause the slightest bit of rubbing on the gas tank with the thicker OEM drive shaft.

Their customer service is amazing as well. I will be going with them for a lot of other products when my 392 arrives. After having about 6 different jeeps with everything from a Rancho lift to a completely custom CJ lift....Metal Cloak is the way to go.
 

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One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is splitting the difference and running 38's.

I don't have a 392, but I have had two Jeeps on 37's (Nitto ridge grappler) in the past and my current ecodiesel is on 38" patagonia MT's which measure very similar to the KM3 39's. I had my eyes set on the KM3's but when it came time to get them, they were on what seemed to be an infinite backorder so I went with what was available.

I have been very happy with the larger tire size, as they are noticeable bigger than a toyo or nitto 37" tire due to how each manufacture specs their tire sizes. If I remember right, Nitto, toyo, and BF goodrich tend to run smaller than they state, whereas the patagonias I have are a true 38" measurement when mounted. I haven't had to trim the pinch welds, but I can see where it has barely rubbed before. On the next Jeep I plan on running a similar setup but doing highline flares and trimming the pinch seam to gain some additional travel by running less bumpstop.

IMG_3353.jpg
 

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We have a 4xe, not a 392, but I think I may be able to add a little info for consideration. The MC 4xe parts were just released, so I've had a couple setups on the jeep so far. Currently MC 3.5 on 37s.

The MC 3.5 springs finished my ride height at about 4.3" over a standard JLUR, putting my ride height shock length at 24.25 front and 26.75" in the rear on the low side (Passenger).

I can't remember if you guys have extended bumps stock up front, or if it's just the XR, but with 3" of total added bump, that puts the front at 5" of up travel and the rear at 6.75". I'm currently driveshaft and shock limited at 28.43" extended in the front resulting in 4.25" of droop. Total front travel of 9.25".

I didn't get the 6 packs and brackets, so estimating a 3" extension from the top/bottom brackets. You'll be at 7" of droop and same up, so ~12" of front travel with a theoretical max axle angle of 40*.

Assuming you get similar lift, here's the specs on AnnDee444's spreadsheet w/ 3" bumps:

Jeep Wrangler JL Need advice on putting MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 1641924291729


I don't remember seeing bump/tire size chart for MC, but RK has one, and recommends 3" bump for 37s and 3"+gutted fenders for up to 40s.

Over 37s and you'll start seeing posts about concerns with the stock D44s, especially with your power.

On Driveshafts, with MC's recent price increase, I think you'll find that you can get a 1350 shaft from another quality vendor for a little less than MC's 1310 shaft.

Remember you need specific minimum backspace to run the 6 packs with the shock brackets.

Of course, I'm missing the sweet hood badge, but here's an idea on stance with the MC 3.5 and 37" KO2s.

Jeep Wrangler JL Need advice on putting MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 1641924868720
 

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MSparks909

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One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is splitting the difference and running 38's.

I don't have a 392, but I have had two Jeeps on 37's (Nitto ridge grappler) in the past and my current ecodiesel is on 38" patagonia MT's which measure very similar to the KM3 39's. I had my eyes set on the KM3's but when it came time to get them, they were on what seemed to be an infinite backorder so I went with what was available.

I have been very happy with the larger tire size, as they are noticeable bigger than a toyo or nitto 37" tire due to how each manufacture specs their tire sizes. If I remember right, Nitto, toyo, and BF goodrich tend to run smaller than they state, whereas the patagonias I have are a true 38" measurement when mounted. I haven't had to trim the pinch welds, but I can see where it has barely rubbed before. On the next Jeep I plan on running a similar setup but doing highline flares and trimming the pinch seam to gain some additional travel by running less bumpstop.
Nitto/Toyo/Mickey Thompson/Cooper/Patagonia tend to run true to size, BFG is always on the smaller end of sizing. I thought heavily about ordering 38s but I’d like to not gut my fenders out of the gate. I figure if I can’t make it over an obstacle on 37s then I’ll either use the expensive skid plates I have on order/Warn winch or choose a different line. I’m not too proud to pull cable if need be 🤣
 

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I'm looking to put the MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 and have a few questions:

#1 For tires I know I'm going with the KM3's and planned on running the 37's, but now I'm considering the 39's. What pro/con advice would you have for the 39's?

#2 The MetalCloak GC 3.5" offers the option for a new front driveshaft from them. Would you go with that option from them or select a different vendor for the driveshaft?

Any other feedback would be greatly appreciated as well, thanks!

Jeep Wrangler JL Need advice on putting MetalCloak GameChanger 3.5" (6pak shocks) and new tires on my Rubicon 392 1641924868720
The driveshaft that MC offered a couple of months ago was a notch below the strength of the 392 OEM front driveshaft, 1310 vs 1320( or 1330). I went with Adams 1350 for the front. I waiting for the rear driveshaft for a while. I can also recommend the Fox 2.5 DSC shocks instead of the 6 packs....if you go that route make sure you get the 052/056 shock lengths to better match-up with the MC game changer 3.5" lift compression and extension. I heard that 6-pack shocks need nitrogen recharging at some point.
 
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HoneyBadgerFE

HoneyBadgerFE

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The driveshaft that MC offered a couple of months ago was a notch below the strength of the 392 OEM front driveshaft, 1310 vs 1320( or 1330). I went with Adams 1350 for the front. I waiting for the rear driveshaft for a while. I can also recommend the Fox 2.5 DSC shocks instead of the 6 packs....if you go that route make sure you get the 052/056 shock lengths to better match-up with the MC game changer 3.5" lift compression and extension. I heard that 6-pack shocks need nitrogen recharging at some point.
I think I may even try the 3.0 Fox shocks. Seems like they won't need to use the shock relocation mount that comes with the MC kit and should match up well with the kits comp/ext.

My only debate now is between the RK 3.5" Ult Adv kit or the MC 3.5" GC.
 

MSparks909

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I think I may even try the 3.0 Fox shocks. Seems like they won't need to use the shock relocation mount that comes with the MC kit and should match up well with the kits comp/ext.

My only debate now is between the RK 3.5" Ult Adv kit or the MC 3.5" GC.
The 2.5s definitely need the lower relocation bracket, I’d assume the 3.0s will too. Not a huge deal. Are you going to be pounding whoops and hitting the desert at speed? If not then the 3.0s are overkill IMO. Pair the 2.5s with some Fox air bumps up front and call it good. I live on the east coast (for now) and decided to go with Fox 2.0 remote reservoirs valved by Accutune. No ride reports yet on the lift or shocks but I should have them installed in the next 2-3 weeks. Whatever shocks you do get, I *highly* recommend buying them through Accutune so you can get them valved for your application and not just use an off the shelf shock tune. Stick with ~18” compressed/30” extended or as close to that as you can when picking shock lengths. For my application that dictated 4.5-6” lift Fox 2.0s up front and 3-4” lift Fox 2.0s in the rear.

As far as MC vs RK I think MC has better joints than the RK kits. There’s been a few threads on here regarding RK suspension and overall maintenance. Search and read. Same reason I picked MC over Clayton, I preferred MC’s joint design much more after doing my more research. I wanted the flexiest yet least maintenance setup…MC fit the bill. Not to mention joint replacement is easy and straightforward down the line.
 

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My only debate now is between the RK 3.5" Ult Adv kit or the MC 3.5" GC.
May not matter in your use case, but the RK arms are not clearanced, so they impact backspace requirements. If you don't use the lower shock relocation brackets on the MC, you can get away with more backspacing.
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