My simple audio build...

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Crusifix

Crusifix

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Nice work.

Normally use foam tape instead of silicone for sealing. Makes life easier when you want to pull it apart again and silicone used to cause issues with speaker surrounds but been out of the detail for a long time so may have changed.

I agree. For mounting the sub I just used foam tape, but the adapter is more of a permanent install, so I used silicone to seal it, and a flexible construction adhesive to mount it along with upgraded hardware.
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cride1

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So you started with the upgraded Alpine 8.4 correct? How do you plan to use the factory amp if at all? Are you wiring around it? Any safety features in the current factory system that may prevent this/shut the system down if it detects an issue with the amp/sub? I have the 8.4 and would like to at some point would like to upgrade all speakers and run new amps but thought I red somewhere that the factory system has some safeties in it that could cause an issue with that.
 
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So you started with the upgraded Alpine 8.4 correct? How do you plan to use the factory amp if at all? Are you wiring around it? Any safety features in the current factory system that may prevent this/shut the system down if it detects an issue with the amp/sub? I have the 8.4 and would like to at some point would like to upgrade all speakers and run new amps but thought I red somewhere that the factory system has some safeties in it that could cause an issue with that.
I still run through the factory amp. Just use one of the LC*i series line out convers and it will take care of any issues. It will send impedance back to the factory amp/HU so that it doesn't shut down. It will also eliminate low frequency clipping.
 
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A few Quick updates. Everything has been working fine since the completion of the install, so it makes perfect since that I am going to completely redo the sub enclosure....right? I just can't get the volume out of it, and when it is pushed, even with added internal structure it causes distortion in the sub that isn't there when I place it in a properly sized box and hook it up to the same system. So, I am going to be cutting out the area around the box and blending the stock trim into the box. I'll probably even carpet the quarter trim to help with the blending.

I did finish adding the sound bar speakers, as well as installing a custom mount for my Fiio M3. Now I just need to run the audio jack and USB cables that feed it behind the dash and clean it up. I will continue to keep people posted. In my opinion, the stock enclosure idea was a good one, but it just doesn't have the volume and stability that is needed for anything that hits hard.

I may end up swapping the dash speakers back to something else, or maybe even going back to stock. The kickers up there are way too bright. Extremely so.

The tabs on the sides of the 3.5's don't line up well, so I just cinched one ear down with a self tapper.
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I started plan B. I ended up just buying a box from Crutchfield. It ended up being only slightly more expensive than I could have built it for.
Next I cut out the original sub enclosure and carpeted the rear section.
Next I will build in se wood around it to tie it in. Carpet that wood, and recarpet the box to match.

The difference in how the sub sounds in a well built box was worth the hassle.

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I started plan B. I ended up just buying a box from Crutchfield. It ended up being only slightly more expensive than I could have built it for.
Next I cut out the original sub enclosure and carpeted the rear section.
Next I will build in se wood around it to tie it in. Carpet that wood, and recarpet the box to match.

The difference in how the sub sounds in a well built box was worth the hassle.

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Interesting development. If I could afford the space I'd have a single 12 in a custom box but I use the carrying capacity of mine too much and at short notice be able to do that. I'm hoping my 10 in the factory enclosure sounds alright but given I'm going to be using a sub with significantly more excursion and a lot more power going to it than you are I think it might have a problem. I do intend to fibreglass the outside of the enclosure to give it more strength so hoping that will be enough.
 
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The biggest issue was the volume of airspace. In theory there is almost enough space for the JL to breathe, but it isn't layer out in a way that is efficient. After speaking to some audio gurus, after they looked inside of it, they pointed out that what is happening is that the waves inside of the box are too erratic, and it wasn't allowing the woofer to move forward and back well. Something to that nature anyway.

I am pushing right under the max watts to the sub. When we tuned it, we dialed it in via the LC2-A Pro and the amp to the output of ~285 watts at max volume using whatever track they told me to play. And wow does it sound really good. The ported enclosure gives it a lot more volume, and being that it is better designed, it hits really hard. I had considered a 12" when I was going to rebuild, but being that I had the 10" on hand I just went with that. I'm glad I did to be honest. I'd probably have to dial the 12" down so it doesn't mask the highs and mids. If I decide I need more, I will probably just swap out to a JL 10W6v3-2 or something that can handle more power than the 10W1v3-2.

It didn't go exactly as I had it planned out, but you take what you are given. I still have some clean up to do, but I'm exhausted. On another note, I just need to remove 6 screws, and the box slides right out. I also put Teflon pads on the bottom of the box that allows for the tray to slide out from under it with no fuss.

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The biggest issue was the volume of airspace. In theory there is almost enough space for the JL to breathe, but it isn't layer out in a way that is efficient. After speaking to some audio gurus, after they looked inside of it, they pointed out that what is happening is that the waves inside of the box are too erratic, and it wasn't allowing the woofer to move forward and back well. Something to that nature anyway.

I am pushing right under the max watts to the sub. When we tuned it, we dialed it in via the LC2-A Pro and the amp to the output of ~285 watts at max volume using whatever track they told me to play. And wow does it sound really good. The ported enclosure gives it a lot more volume, and being that it is better designed, it hits really hard. I had considered a 12" when I was going to rebuild, but being that I had the 10" on hand I just went with that. I'm glad I did to be honest. I'd probably have to dial the 12" down so it doesn't mask the highs and mids. If I decide I need more, I will probably just swap out to a JL 10W6v3-2 or something that can handle more power than the 10W1v3-2.

It didn't go exactly as I had it planned out, but you take what you are given. I still have some clean up to do, but I'm exhausted. On another note, I just need to remove 6 screws, and the box slides right out. I also put Teflon pads on the bottom of the box that allows for the tray to slide out from under it with no fuss.

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Yes it's not the most balanced enclosure in terms of layout. Definitely designed to cram as much volume into the space they had available. My enclosure is stuffed full of polyfil so will see how it goes. My sub is also recommended for a sealed box from 0.4 - 0.8 cuft so it's about in the middle of that range.

Here's a photo of a system that I had in a previous car. I've still got everything except the box so could make a removable box for when I want obnoxious loud. I was once pulled over by the police and asked to turn it down because I was making their car rattle as I sat next to them at a set of lights. I had all of my windows up and so did they :CWL: .


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Crusifix

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Haha! I was in the same boat once. About 20 years ago I had 2 - 18's stuffed into a Blazer.
 

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The biggest issue was the volume of airspace. In theory there is almost enough space for the JL to breathe, but it isn't layer out in a way that is efficient. After speaking to some audio gurus, after they looked inside of it, they pointed out that what is happening is that the waves inside of the box are too erratic, and it wasn't allowing the woofer to move forward and back well. Something to that nature anyway.

I am pushing right under the max watts to the sub. When we tuned it, we dialed it in via the LC2-A Pro and the amp to the output of ~285 watts at max volume using whatever track they told me to play. And wow does it sound really good. The ported enclosure gives it a lot more volume, and being that it is better designed, it hits really hard. I had considered a 12" when I was going to rebuild, but being that I had the 10" on hand I just went with that. I'm glad I did to be honest. I'd probably have to dial the 12" down so it doesn't mask the highs and mids. If I decide I need more, I will probably just swap out to a JL 10W6v3-2 or something that can handle more power than the 10W1v3-2.

It didn't go exactly as I had it planned out, but you take what you are given. I still have some clean up to do, but I'm exhausted. On another note, I just need to remove 6 screws, and the box slides right out. I also put Teflon pads on the bottom of the box that allows for the tray to slide out from under it with no fuss.

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Where you got the jeep emblem from?
 

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Cool stuff man. I had also considered using the factory enclosure, but came to the conclusion as well that it just wasn't suited. A custom box, tuned to the specific driver is definitely the way to go. You may be able to run a single 10tw3 in a custom ported box that wouldn't stick out as far on the side.
 

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Following this thread. You really do nice work, makes me want to upgrade mine. Bruce from Nemo was named after the animatronic shark in Jaws also named Bruce BTW....
 
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