Jeepeto
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EDIT: for those wondering the functional beadlock ring is Mopar Part number P5160154
I struggled with this the first time around, but have picked up a few tricks along the way that I figured I would share for the next guy struggling to wrestle some fresh rubber. I'm by no means an expert, and I've done some stuff that others will surely disagree with; using power tools, using anti seize on the beadlock bolts, and re-using these bolts to name a few (I blew a sidewall with <5k miles on the first tire, they're still practically new, however they have been torqued before and should likely be replaced). Do not take this as a definitive DIY guide, and make sure you understand the risks involved in running beadlocks, as well as mounting and inflating them.
With that out of the way, it's time for pictures!
Step 1 - get the face of your rim into the tire, I have been able to work with my local Discount Tire to get this done on their machine. They only mount the back bead of the tire for obvious liability reasons, but it allows me to skip this step. I know it can be done at home with lots of lube but I'm not that guy.
Step 2 - clean your rim and beadlock rings. (I didn't get any pictures of cleaning the rim before I decided I was going to do a write up, but you get the idea here)
Step 3 - Buy new hardware. Seriously, don't just throw them in your ultrasonic cleaner and call it good like I did.
Step 4 - Line up your valve stem with your chosen alignment dot, before you put the wheel/tire on the bucket and get to work. This is also a great time to lube all the bead surfaces on both the tire and the wheel so you don't have to fight it later. Use lots of lube
Step 5 - Put your tire/wheel on a 5 gallon bucket so it's easy to work with and using your beadlock hardware and a crows foot set, pin the bead down in three positions, skipping 5 bolt holes between each crows foot. Sorry for the blurry picture, I was covered in anti seize and wearing gloves. I didn't have the dexterity to check my photos
Oh well, you can still see what we're going for here. You're pinning down 180 degrees of the bead. Don't fully tighten the bolts here obviously, you just want to pinch the bead so that it can't pop back up on you.
Step 6 - Install 2 more crows feet, skipping two holes between. It helps at this point to start your crows feet with your fingers off to the side as seen in the picture so you don't have the tire fighting you. This also helps to avoid cross threading the bolt as you install it. Again, just snug up the bolts here, no need to apply much torque, you're just trying to pin the bead down.
Step 7 - At this point, if you've done it right, you'll have 6 bolt holes between you're last two crows feet, pick a side, skip one hole, and install your 6th and final crows foot. This will require you to use a flat head screw driver to pull the bead over as you install the last crows foot. I needed both hands and didn't get a picture here. Feel free to comment if this doesn't make sense.
Step 8 - You'll now have 4 bolt holes between your last two crows feet, and you'll use 2 large screwdrivers to pull the bead into place. This is the hardest part, and it can be helpful to have a mallet or dead blow hammer handy to persuade the bead into place. Cussing helps as well.
Step 8 finished - I didn't get a good picture but here's one I prepared earlier. Note the locations of the crows feet, and holes between each one.
Step 10 - make sure your bead is fully seated and remove the crows feet. Install your functional beadlock ring and install 4 bolts as shown in the photo below. You have 25 bolt holes, and you'll have an un even number of bolt holes between one pair (5,5,5,6)
Step 11 - start the remaining bolts by hand.
Step 12 - Wipe down your tire and mark your sidewall/bolts on your starter bolts (the 4 you initially installed with the beadlock ring) I used a white grease pencil here and put a "v" next to each starter bolt. Going In a criss cross "star" pattern begin to seat the bolts, torquing ever so slightly. This is controversial but I use a small 12v impact on it's low setting to gently torque the bolts down as I do this step. Use your judgement here, if you're not comfortable with power tools you should definitely use a ratchet for this step. Continue the star pattern with the remaining bolts. I like to count it out as I go, starting with the 4 starter bolts I say to myself "zero, zero, zero, zero" as I torque them down before moving one space clockwise and counting "one, one, one, one" and so on. (Again, if this is confusing let me know and I'll try and clear it up.) Repeat this step until your beadlock ring is near seating. It should take you many laps to get this done. Don't rush this step, you're just trying to gently lower the bead and ring down into place.
*note* If you are unsure of when to stop on step 12 it is wise to begin step 13 with a lower torque value i.e. 5ft-lb before working your way to 10, 15, etc.
Step 13 - After going through the bolts many, many (many!) times and seating your bead firmly. Grab your torque wrench and set to your desired torque (I've reduced my toque to 15ft-lb as I'm using a lubricating agent (anti-seize) on the threads of my bolts, I believe the Mopar manual states 20ft-lb, but be sure to check). Again, using the star pattern begin working your way around the ring. Each path around the ring, you'll get less and less swing on your torque wrench before it clicks, I usually call it good when I get less than 90 degrees of swing. When you're done make sure you have a very small, even gap around the bead. If this is large, or un-even it needs to be re-done.
Thats it! The hard part is done!
Keep your tire on the bucket when inflating, as it helps to "sag" the back bead into place while you try and seat the bead. Be sure to stay clear of the beadlock ring when inflating in the case that something goes kablooey, and try not to jump in front of the ladies when the bead "POPS!" into place.
**Do not under any circumstances over inflate your tire to get the bead to seat. If you're having trouble getting the rear bead to seat stop what you're doing and seek professional help.**
I usually take my completed wheel back to Discount Tire for road force balancing, but there are other options like balance beads, etc.
Please be safe! I write this as a way to hopefully help the next guy cuss a little less during the process. Do not attempt to do this if you aren't confident in your abilities and don't understand the risks with running beadlocks.
I struggled with this the first time around, but have picked up a few tricks along the way that I figured I would share for the next guy struggling to wrestle some fresh rubber. I'm by no means an expert, and I've done some stuff that others will surely disagree with; using power tools, using anti seize on the beadlock bolts, and re-using these bolts to name a few (I blew a sidewall with <5k miles on the first tire, they're still practically new, however they have been torqued before and should likely be replaced). Do not take this as a definitive DIY guide, and make sure you understand the risks involved in running beadlocks, as well as mounting and inflating them.
With that out of the way, it's time for pictures!
Step 1 - get the face of your rim into the tire, I have been able to work with my local Discount Tire to get this done on their machine. They only mount the back bead of the tire for obvious liability reasons, but it allows me to skip this step. I know it can be done at home with lots of lube but I'm not that guy.
Step 2 - clean your rim and beadlock rings. (I didn't get any pictures of cleaning the rim before I decided I was going to do a write up, but you get the idea here)
Step 3 - Buy new hardware. Seriously, don't just throw them in your ultrasonic cleaner and call it good like I did.
Step 4 - Line up your valve stem with your chosen alignment dot, before you put the wheel/tire on the bucket and get to work. This is also a great time to lube all the bead surfaces on both the tire and the wheel so you don't have to fight it later. Use lots of lube
Step 5 - Put your tire/wheel on a 5 gallon bucket so it's easy to work with and using your beadlock hardware and a crows foot set, pin the bead down in three positions, skipping 5 bolt holes between each crows foot. Sorry for the blurry picture, I was covered in anti seize and wearing gloves. I didn't have the dexterity to check my photos
Oh well, you can still see what we're going for here. You're pinning down 180 degrees of the bead. Don't fully tighten the bolts here obviously, you just want to pinch the bead so that it can't pop back up on you.
Step 6 - Install 2 more crows feet, skipping two holes between. It helps at this point to start your crows feet with your fingers off to the side as seen in the picture so you don't have the tire fighting you. This also helps to avoid cross threading the bolt as you install it. Again, just snug up the bolts here, no need to apply much torque, you're just trying to pin the bead down.
Step 7 - At this point, if you've done it right, you'll have 6 bolt holes between you're last two crows feet, pick a side, skip one hole, and install your 6th and final crows foot. This will require you to use a flat head screw driver to pull the bead over as you install the last crows foot. I needed both hands and didn't get a picture here. Feel free to comment if this doesn't make sense.
Step 8 - You'll now have 4 bolt holes between your last two crows feet, and you'll use 2 large screwdrivers to pull the bead into place. This is the hardest part, and it can be helpful to have a mallet or dead blow hammer handy to persuade the bead into place. Cussing helps as well.
Step 8 finished - I didn't get a good picture but here's one I prepared earlier. Note the locations of the crows feet, and holes between each one.
Step 10 - make sure your bead is fully seated and remove the crows feet. Install your functional beadlock ring and install 4 bolts as shown in the photo below. You have 25 bolt holes, and you'll have an un even number of bolt holes between one pair (5,5,5,6)
Step 11 - start the remaining bolts by hand.
Step 12 - Wipe down your tire and mark your sidewall/bolts on your starter bolts (the 4 you initially installed with the beadlock ring) I used a white grease pencil here and put a "v" next to each starter bolt. Going In a criss cross "star" pattern begin to seat the bolts, torquing ever so slightly. This is controversial but I use a small 12v impact on it's low setting to gently torque the bolts down as I do this step. Use your judgement here, if you're not comfortable with power tools you should definitely use a ratchet for this step. Continue the star pattern with the remaining bolts. I like to count it out as I go, starting with the 4 starter bolts I say to myself "zero, zero, zero, zero" as I torque them down before moving one space clockwise and counting "one, one, one, one" and so on. (Again, if this is confusing let me know and I'll try and clear it up.) Repeat this step until your beadlock ring is near seating. It should take you many laps to get this done. Don't rush this step, you're just trying to gently lower the bead and ring down into place.
*note* If you are unsure of when to stop on step 12 it is wise to begin step 13 with a lower torque value i.e. 5ft-lb before working your way to 10, 15, etc.
Step 13 - After going through the bolts many, many (many!) times and seating your bead firmly. Grab your torque wrench and set to your desired torque (I've reduced my toque to 15ft-lb as I'm using a lubricating agent (anti-seize) on the threads of my bolts, I believe the Mopar manual states 20ft-lb, but be sure to check). Again, using the star pattern begin working your way around the ring. Each path around the ring, you'll get less and less swing on your torque wrench before it clicks, I usually call it good when I get less than 90 degrees of swing. When you're done make sure you have a very small, even gap around the bead. If this is large, or un-even it needs to be re-done.
Thats it! The hard part is done!
Keep your tire on the bucket when inflating, as it helps to "sag" the back bead into place while you try and seat the bead. Be sure to stay clear of the beadlock ring when inflating in the case that something goes kablooey, and try not to jump in front of the ladies when the bead "POPS!" into place.
**Do not under any circumstances over inflate your tire to get the bead to seat. If you're having trouble getting the rear bead to seat stop what you're doing and seek professional help.**
I usually take my completed wheel back to Discount Tire for road force balancing, but there are other options like balance beads, etc.
Please be safe! I write this as a way to hopefully help the next guy cuss a little less during the process. Do not attempt to do this if you aren't confident in your abilities and don't understand the risks with running beadlocks.
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