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My 2020 Jeep Rubicon “JLUR” could have killed me and my family this weekend.

TowDawg

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Computer engineer checking in. There's nothing wrong with using electronics, if they are well designed. The stuff in the JL Wrangler is not well designed. If it were well designed, the OP's scenario (and several others I've read about on the forum) would have never happened. In any safety critical system, there should be basic operation that always works no matter what. Even with a dirty ground, a sketchy power source, and other problems presenting themselves.

Honestly I bet if they had used "good old fashioned" mechanicals for everything, they would've used cheap plastic parts everywhere and it'd all break anyway.

Edit: Sigh. I don't want to sound like I hate Jeep or anything. I really like my Jeep. I like Chrysler stuff in general. From what I've seen, other companies make fairly glitchy software too. But The Jeep's electrical system is kinda ridiculous even for a car lol.
Jeep definitely has "glitchy software" for sure, but at least mine have had to do with the radio/camera and not anything to do with the whole vehicle shutting down. It's not that unusual (although my 2020 is better than my 2019) to get in randomly have no volume, sometimes have a display screen, sometimes not, maybe the backup camera works, or maybe it's just a blue screen. The only way to fix it is to pull over, leave the car and radio on, pull the radio fuse, wait a few seconds, and then put it back in. That reboots the system and get's the radio and camera back online immediately, but generally also makes me lose the climate control functions for 10-15 minutes.
 

1Placerville

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This is a STRONG WARNING to all Jeep JL owners!
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I recently had a momentary power loss...same vehicle as yours. I couldn't replicate it until this past Saturday. I was under the hood hooking up some rock lights. I normally use the Aux wiring and the built in grounding bolts but I wanted an internal switch. When I went to ground it on the negative battery post I found the cable to post connection to be really loose even though the bolt was screwed down as far as it would go. I also noticed it had lifted upwards about 1/4". I replaced the terminal connector and it fit like it's suppose to. I don't know if that could have been your issue but I only have about 10k on my mileage and this connection wasn't right.
 

Kyanche

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Jeep definitely has "glitchy software" for sure, but at least mine have had to do with the radio/camera and not anything to do with the whole vehicle shutting down. It's not that unusual (although my 2020 is better than my 2019) to get in randomly have no volume, sometimes have a display screen, sometimes not, maybe the backup camera works, or maybe it's just a blue screen.
Yeah, unfortunately that flavor of software glitch isn't unusual in cars. Losing car radio functionality sucks, but it's not as big a deal as the other failures being described where the engine shuts off or the brake boost doesn't work or the power steering assist doesn't work or whatever. That's a bit more than a software bug, that's bad system architecture.
 

JeepDrvr2018

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Although I have not read every reply. I would take a good bet, there is an electrical connection which has become loose.

My Story. Picked up brand new 300K motorhome in June 2019. We started across USA from West Coast heading to GA. Got to eastern Oregon, and low voltage warning on ECM Screen on Dash, hmmm, not normal. So just started the generator and kept going. So it started happening about every 400 miles. Finally in Sidney, NE (home of the first Cabela's store) we found a freightliner service center. We stopped and as it happened to be close to holiday, they gave us a small runaround, called the FL Hot Line, they told me to take it over there the next morning, and they would get it fixed. Turns out the Starter Positive Cable was not connected tight, was only finger tight. Now I know the reason it was loose, was because they disconnect the batteries when manufacturing the coach, because of welding. They QC people should have caught it, and the other 30 odd things that were fixed at the end of my first year Mothership Trip for warranty.

Now, its my guess it takes about 2 hours from start to finish on a car production line, stuff gets missed, and the workers depend on the QC folks to catch it, they miss a lot. If FCJ, slowed down the line by 1 hour, and had a checker for each station, many, many mistakes would be caught on the line, and never reach the customer, yep, VERY EXPENSIVE, as labor is the most expensive part of the car. You can pay up front, or pay on the back end, but pay FCJ will do. Seems to me cheaper on the front end. Now, if the OP had been injured, or killed, any decent lawyer would file a wrongful death suit in his/her name, and FCJ would be on the hook for possibly millions. So, FCJ if you read these posts, my suggestion to you is get the line slowed down, get the QC checks at every station, and save yourself some legal fees. But then what do I know?
 

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Petey

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It may not be the speakers. Mine does it too, but continues to do it after the door harness is unplugged, so it's probably not electric. Worth checking.
it shut off the infotainment like it possibly had a short . It reboots in a few seconds . The doors were always closed and car running just out of nowhere it will do that no warning whatsoever.
 

TheGreatCO

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My '96 Ford Explorer had the alternator go and I lost the engine at 65 on the highway when the battery died, but I was able to huff and puff and steer it to the shoulder and get it stopped. The steering was tough and the brakes were a bear, but they still worked.

My last car was a 2012 Ford Escape, <insert Ford joke here>, that was notorious for electrical issues. It would kill a battery if you didn't start it at least once a week (I work in NYC and commute, so I don't drive during the week). When the battery would go bad, the electronics in the car would do very similar things to what you're describing. The dash would light up like a Christmas tree, radio would go out, headlights would drop, flashers didn't work, push button start/stop would stop working, just all around bad time. Funny enough, the blind spot detection system never went out which is super nice when you're crossing 4 lanes of traffic to find a shoulder or exit. I also never had the engine stall on the Escape because the alternator was still working, just battery/ground issue.

This is all to say, all these problems sound suspiciously like a main (battery/ground) electrical problem. As somebody with an electronics hobby, a lose or bad ground can cause some super weird behavior.
 

iznthesky

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That’s Scary.... I have a manual 6 speed transmission. I am wondering if it’s a benefit as the momentum will continue to turn the engine....in theory perhaps providing some electrical impulse for steering & brakes. Even if it doesn’t...at least I can use the transmission to slow the vehicle down.
Keeping my fingers crossed. So far at 30K, no issues whatsoever....but this total loss of power is a frightening thought. I am glad the OP & family was unhurt.
 
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Fsttanks

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That’s Scary.... I have a manual 6 speed transmission. I am wondering if it’s a benefit as the momentum will continue to turn the engine....in theory perhaps providing some electrical impulse for steering & brakes. Even if it doesn’t...at least I can use the transmission to slow the vehicle down.
Keeping my fingers crossed. So far at 30K, no issues whatsoever....but this total loss of power is a frightening thought. I am glad the OP & family was unhurt.
I would suspect with a manual you should have more control over the vehicle in terms of either maintaining speed by shifting into neutral or slowing by simply down shifting.

A detail I have not mentioned until now is I had neither option above because the automatic transmission selector lever was locked into drive and would not disengage until the computer reset (both times). I think the solenoid that locks the lever had engaged when everything else went crazy.
 

TheGreatCO

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I would suspect with a manual you should have more control over the vehicle in terms of either maintaining speed by shifting into neutral or slowing by simply down shifting.

A detail I have not mentioned until now is I had neither option above because the automatic transmission selector lever was locked into drive and would not disengage until the computer reset (both times). I think the solenoid that locks the lever had engaged when everything else went crazy.
It wouldn't slide into neutral at all? On my JT it slides from drive to neutral without pressing the release button. I've accidentally knocked mine into neutral once or twice...
 

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Fsttanks

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It wouldn't slide into neutral at all? On my JT it slides from drive to neutral without pressing the release button. I've accidentally knocked mine into neutral once or twice...
That is how they are supposed to work when everything else is working correctly. The situation I had apparently activated the “locking” mechanism when the computer system went “haywire” and caused a “jam” at some point and did not allow the selector level to move. With it “locked” (for lack of a better description) in drive and the engine off as in the case at the intersection there was no way to attempt to restart the engine as it must be in park to do so.

Trust me we all tried to move the selector lever and it wasn’t moving. Once the computer system reset I was able to once again move the selector level out of drive and into park.

I was told that this and other issues were duplicated during “inspection” at the dealership. That was a week ago and it looks like I have another week to wait until the final analysis is known.
 

TheGreatCO

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That is how they are supposed to work when everything else is working correctly. The situation I had apparently activated the “locking” mechanism when the computer system went “haywire” and caused a “jam” at some point and did not allow the selector level to move. With it “locked” (for lack of a better description) in drive and the engine off as in the case at the intersection there was no way to attempt to restart the engine as it must be in park to do so.

Trust me we all tried to move the selector lever and it wasn’t moving. Once the computer system reset I was able to once again move the selector level out of drive and into park.

I was told that this and other issues were duplicated during “inspection” at the dealership. That was a week ago and it looks like I have another week to wait until the final analysis is known.
Wow. This is super suspicious. The transmission should go into neutral no matter what the computer is doing. This is a safety feature to prevent runaway situations. Remember Toyota and their big class action suit? As for restarting the car, you should be able to do it from neutral but only when the vehicle is stopped. I’ve never owned a car where I couldn’t start it in neutral. With my JT it needs to be stopped though. It sounds like Jeep has some pretty serious questions to answer.
 
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Fsttanks

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Short recap of today’s events:

Ok we got a surprise call from the dealership and they said it was all fixed. They explained what they did and it all sounded good.

Picked up the Jeep drove it home and well, wait for it, wait for it......It went haywire in our driveway after being parked for 30 min in our driveway as we went to take it for a short drive. Needless to say it was towed to a different dealership. Also I am not posting the details of what was done by the first dealership yet as it is clearly apparent that what they did had no real effect on the issues

We got some good video of this last event...lol about 12 minutes worth. If you want see a short video check out my Instagram @ fsttanks. It’s only 1 minute of the twelve. Both my wife and I are a little sarcastic and light hearted while it is all happening once again. Thought I will say this time it was about 80% of the last two times. Some system were still working but not the ones that really mattered.

So if you have Instagram check it out. I opened my page so everyone can see it first hand. Note imagine it happening at 70mph.

Instagram @ fsttanks
 

Windshieldfarmer

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Checked out your Instagram page...”Houston - we have a problem”. WTF!!!! Good idea towing to another dealer.... You are shorted out somewhere....big time. I see a buy back in your future with that video...
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