Multiple shops suggesting all different components for 3.5" lift. Other than springs/shocks, what other suspension components are actually needed?

[A Sober Animal]

I've now sent received multiple estimates from multiple reputable shops (including a very reputable one based out of Moab), it seems that every single shop tells me something different. Adjustable versus non-adjustable control arms. Keep stock drive shaft, only replace front, replace both. Replace steering stabilizer, no steering stabilizer, maybe do it later. Front track bar replacement, relocation, or no changes. Same with rear. I do not understand why this process is difficult and so drastically different depending on who I talk to.

Here's what I know for sure:

• I want 3.5" coil springs for a 3.5" lift (looking at Teraflex here)
• I want the Falcon SP2 3.3 fast adjust shocks.
• I do not know what other components are necessary to keep my geometry similar to stock and maintaining a safe-to-drive vehicle.

I am hoping to come to consensus here to determine what additional items are required within these categories:

1. What type of control arms (adjustable vs non-adjustable)?
2. Driveshafts (replace vs stock)
3. Track bar, rear (replace vs relocate vs stock)
4. Track bar, front (replace vs relocate vs stock)
5. Drag links (replace vs stock)
6. Tie rod (replace vs stock)
7. Steering stabilizer (replace vs stock)

I created a poll to help understand what is most recommended for a lift like this - if you respond, please vote once within each category (i.e. stock vs replace). Would also be curious as to your reasoning one way or another. Ideally I'd just do it all, but I'm not made of money.

If I've missed a component, please let me know and I can add to the poll, but those were all of the components that I've received across multiple estimates.

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[JeepFiend]

Just my $0.02 but steering geometry is important, so I'd definitely add an adjustable track bar and at least adjustable upper control arms to dial in alignment and possibly drop brackets to improve ride.. The rear I just want the back end centered so a relocation bracket if necessary, but that can be got later, and again at least adjustable uppers to dial in pinion angles. Depending on the offroading/driving you do, if you're hitting bumps at speed, a better stabilizer will help.

 

[Roky]

I've now sent received multiple estimates from multiple reputable shops (including a very reputable one based out of Moab), it seems that every single shop tells me something different. Adjustable versus non-adjustable control arms. Keep stock drive shaft, only replace front, replace both. Replace steering stabilizer, no steering stabilizer, maybe do it later. Front track bar replacement, relocation, or no changes. Same with rear. I do not understand why this process is difficult and so drastically different depending on who I talk to.

Here's what I know for sure:

• I want 3.5" coil springs for a 3.5" lift (looking at Teraflex here)
• I want the Falcon SP2 3.3 fast adjust shocks.
• I do not know what other components are necessary to keep my geometry similar to stock and maintaining a safe-to-drive vehicle.

I am hoping to come to consensus here to determine what additional items are required within these categories:

1. What type of control arms (adjustable vs non-adjustable)?
2. Driveshafts (replace vs stock)
3. Track bar, rear (replace vs relocate vs stock)
4. Track bar, front (replace vs relocate vs stock)
5. Drag links (replace vs stock)
6. Tie rod (replace vs stock)
7. Steering stabilizer (replace vs stock)

I created a poll to help understand what is most recommended for a lift like this - if you respond, please vote once within each category (i.e. stock vs replace). Would also be curious as to your reasoning one way or another. Ideally I'd just do it all, but I'm not made of money.

If I've missed a component, please let me know and I can add to the poll, but those were all of the components that I've received across multiple estimates.

I didn’t vote because there’s to many variables. If you want 3.5” of lift then you need front adj track bar, rear adj track bar or a relocation bracket and run your factory TB., adj front lower control arms, longer sway bar links and bump stops.

The need for driveshaft is determined by the extended length of your shocks not lift height. If your shocks extend 28” or more then replace the front driveshaft, otherwise oem will work for now. The rest of the stuff is a replace as needed do to wear or can afford to do it preemptively. It really is that simple……

 

[Some Random Guy]

There are multiple ways to do it. Here are some concepts to help out:

1) Too much droop necessitates new driveshafts. It’s different front and back and 2vs4 door. There are clearance issues with cross members in front, and pinion angle bind created in the rear (especially on a 2 door).
2) Geometry brackets can help pinion angles and prevent the need for new driveshafts. A rig with brackets can lift more than one without before driveshaft issues.
3) Roll center is impacted when you lift. You should deal with trackbars the same way front and back. So if you do adjustables, do both. If you do a bracket, do both that way. Ignoring it is probably a bad idea at 3.5” or more.
3A) Drag link and track bars seem to make bumpsteer worse as they become less parallel. So drag link flips and track bar brackets should go together if possible. May be marketing hype though. Drag link flip limits up travel.
4) As you approach the wheel well limits for tire size you have multiple problems starting around 37”. The tire may contact the top, necessitating more bumpstop and limiting total travel. It may contact the pinch seam. 37-38” begins seeing adjustable control arms in the rear earn you more total travel by pushing the axle to the center of the wheel well avoid contacting the pinch seam prematurely.
5) Caster gets impacted as you lift. Geometry brackets or adjustable control arms will get it back to keep squirrely steering down.
6) I wish I was smart enough to update this with specific numbers from @Roky

 

[word302]

There are multiple ways to do it. Here are some concepts to help out:

1) Too much droop necessitates new driveshafts. It’s different front and back and 2vs4 door. There are clearance issues with cross members in front, and pinion angle bind created in the rear (especially on a 2 door).
2) Geometry brackets can help pinion angles and prevent the need for new driveshafts. A rig with brackets can lift more than one without before driveshaft issues.
3) Roll center is impacted when you lift. You should deal with trackbars the same way front and back. So if you do adjustables, do both. If you do a bracket, do both that way. Ignoring it is probably a bad idea at 3.5” or more.
3A) Drag link and track bars seem to make bumpsteer worse as they become less parallel. So drag link flips and track bar brackets should go together if possible. May be marketing hype though. Drag link flip limits up travel.
4) As you approach the wheel well limits for tire size you have multiple problems starting around 37”. The tire may contact the top, necessitating more bumpstop and limiting total travel. It may contact the pinch seam. 37-38” begins seeing adjustable control arms in the rear earn you more total travel by pushing the axle to the center of the wheel well avoid contacting the pinch seam prematurely.
5) Caster gets impacted as you lift. Geometry brackets or adjustable control arms will get it back to keep squirrely steering down.
6) I wish I was smart enough to update this with specific numbers from @Roky

I agree with everything except your concept of track bar brackets. I would absolutely use one in the rear to help with roll center. I would absolutely not use one in the front unless you are also doing a drag link flip, which I wouldn't recommend. You want the front track bar and drag link to follow as close to the same plane as possible or you start creating more issues than fixing.

 

[word302]

I've now sent received multiple estimates from multiple reputable shops (including a very reputable one based out of Moab), it seems that every single shop tells me something different. Adjustable versus non-adjustable control arms. Keep stock drive shaft, only replace front, replace both. Replace steering stabilizer, no steering stabilizer, maybe do it later. Front track bar replacement, relocation, or no changes. Same with rear. I do not understand why this process is difficult and so drastically different depending on who I talk to.

Here's what I know for sure:

• I want 3.5" coil springs for a 3.5" lift (looking at Teraflex here)
• I want the Falcon SP2 3.3 fast adjust shocks.
• I do not know what other components are necessary to keep my geometry similar to stock and maintaining a safe-to-drive vehicle.

I am hoping to come to consensus here to determine what additional items are required within these categories:

1. What type of control arms (adjustable vs non-adjustable)?
2. Driveshafts (replace vs stock)
3. Track bar, rear (replace vs relocate vs stock)
4. Track bar, front (replace vs relocate vs stock)
5. Drag links (replace vs stock)
6. Tie rod (replace vs stock)
7. Steering stabilizer (replace vs stock)

I created a poll to help understand what is most recommended for a lift like this - if you respond, please vote once within each category (i.e. stock vs replace). Would also be curious as to your reasoning one way or another. Ideally I'd just do it all, but I'm not made of money.

If I've missed a component, please let me know and I can add to the poll, but those were all of the components that I've received across multiple estimates.

Curious why you're set on Teraflex for your lift/shocks? There's definitely better options out there.

 

[Some Random Guy]

I agree with everything except your concept of track bar brackets. I would absolutely use one in the rear to help with roll center. I would absolutely not use one in the front unless you are also doing a drag link flip, which I wouldn't recommend. You want the front track bar and drag link to follow as close to the same plane as possible or you start creating more issues than fixing.

I’ll have to see where I read it. But just to be clear I’d be 100% on board with 2 adjustable track bars and no drag link flip. When I was researching I seem to recall mixing brackets and bars were a bad idea because it made the front and rear roll centers get out of whack.

 

[word302]

I’ll have to see where I read it. But just to be clear I’d be 100% on board with 2 adjustable track bars and no drag link flip. When I was researching I seem to recall mixing brackets and bars were a bad idea because it made the front and rear roll centers get out of whack.

No not at all. I run adjustable track bars front and rear but only use a drop bracket in the rear. Also using an adjustable front bar is totally fine in combination with the factory bar and a drop bracket in the rear.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Here is what I was reading. Far from authoritative, but I found it to make sense.

 

[word302]

Here is what I was reading. Far from authoritative, but I found it to make sense.

Yeah the TJ and JK are just completely different animals. You'd commonly see 5"+ lifts on those making the flipped drag link make a lot more sense. When you're lifting less than 4" flipping the drag link just introduces limited up travel when the angles aren't that bad to begin with. In other words you don't really gain any benefit by flipping the drag link on a JL, but instead create clearance issues.

 

[A Sober Animal]

It seems like overall the consensus has been adjustable control arms and replacement of both front and rear track bars.

The need for driveshaft is determined by the extended length of your shocks not lift height. If your shocks extend 28” or more then replace the front driveshaft, otherwise oem will work for now. The rest of the stuff is a replace as needed do to wear or can afford to do it preemptively. It really is that simple……

So if those falcon 3.3 shocks extend 28" or more, they are needed, seems simple enough.

Curious why you're set on Teraflex for your lift/shocks? There's definitely better options out there.

All the shops have said two main things: 1) Their warranty is stellar and will always replace with new parts versus having to fight with other manufacturers. 2) Almost all the shop owners/reps I speak to run their products, which I think speaks volumes.

Still trying to get better clarity on the steering stabilizer, tie bar and drag links. Seems to be some debate as to flip them versus replacing versus stock.

 

[word302]

It seems like overall the consensus has been adjustable control arms and replacement of both front and rear track bars.


So if those falcon 3.3 shocks extend 28" or more, they are needed, seems simple enough.


All the shops have said two main things: 1) Their warranty is stellar and will always replace with new parts versus having to fight with other manufacturers. 2) Almost all the shop owners/reps I speak to run their products, which I think speaks volumes.

Still trying to get better clarity on the steering stabilizer, tie bar and drag links. Seems to be some debate as to flip them versus replacing versus stock.

Any shop telling you to flip the drag link doesn't really understand the geometry of the JL.

With bigger tires you'll wear out the steering components faster, but you can wait until they're worn out to replace them.

There are manufacturers out there with stellar customer service that build better products, but if you're stuck on Terraflex I'll just butt out.

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