Multi-Purpose 2 Door Rubi Lift Advice

[PA-Punkn]

When I bought my 2 door I originally intended to build it to primarily be more of a rock crawler and a partial daily driver. Now approaching two years of ownership it has become my daily driver and there are some very exciting opportunities for long haul overlanding that have come up, first being Philly to Alaska and completing the Dalton Highway.

I'm very happy with where my build is, and next major upgrade will be a 2.5" lift. I already have 315/70R17 C-rated tires and don't intend to go any bigger. I've also done the majority of the heavy mods I had planned, except for new rock sliders. I've been very weight conscious, going aluminum where possible. Here's my weight study:

Mod weight = 189 lbs (86 lbs unsprung, 103 lbs sprung)

In full overlanding setup with rear seat removed, doors and roof on, two passengers, and all gear and provisions I'm estimating 969 lbs

The door sticker says passengers and cargo shouldn't exceed 700 lbs. That puts me at +458 lbs overall.

So here's the ask. In summer I run without roof or doors. I want to add capability to do tougher trails and more difficult rock crawling (doing the Rubicon is definitely on the list). I will be carrying a lot more weight for these long haul trips, which will also include different types of off roading.

What suggestions would you propose for lift and steering and anything else given the large swings in weight from summer mode to overlanding mode? The way I look at this (and please tell me if I'm wrong) wheels, brakes, D44's, transmission are all shared with the 4 door Rubi which is 400 lbs heavier than the 2 door, so shouldn't have any worries there.

Yeah I know I want it all, and whatever is installed will not be a top performer in each area. I'd sacrifice some rock crawling capabilities in order to be better on the road and under weight if that helps any. Cost is of minor concern, to me this is an investment in bucket list item elimination

If folks have specific setup suggestions that's great, however general build approach ideas would be equally welcome.

Thanks for reading and looking forward to your thoughts.

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[Reinen]

I can't give you a full answer but I know you have one absolute must. Upgrade your bump stops to the best you can get, like the Timbren active off-road bump stops. When you're off-roading heavy, you are absolutely going to use them and the stock bump stops won't handle it.

 

[PA-Punkn]

I can't give you a full answer but I know you have one absolute must. Upgrade your bump stops to the best you can get, like the Timbren active off-road bump stops. When you're off-roading heavy, you are absolutely going to use them and the stock bump stops won't handle it.

Great advice, thank you, on the list!

 

[Kreepin1]

Tough call.

You are a good candidate for 4-door loaded Rubicon springs which would give your about an inch of lift. Here's what I would do:
Synergy Sector Shaft Brace
4-door Rubicon springs (LF/RF 68253661AC/68253662AC and LR/RR 68253591AA/68253592AA)
2 - Mopar lower control arm, Mopar 68322798AA to dial in a bit more caster you lost in the lift
1/2" taller bump stops either through a spacer or something like the Timbrens

But I think the Synergy 2" lift would be a good match too. Stock stocks limit flex, but are near the capability of the stock control arm bushings. So if you want increased flex from longer shocks you also need aftermarket control arms. Synergy is the first manufacturer I've seen that gets it. They are lifting the Jeep 2" and running shocks from a Fox 3.5-4" kit. Here is what I'd do:
Synergy Sector Shaft Brace
Synergy 8822-2000 Stage 2 ($3,095)
Fox 2.5" DSC shocks 883-26-051 and 883-26-055

You didn't mention which wheels you plan to run, but keep in mind some lifts have minimum backspacing requirements. You should read through the Synergy page regardless of which way you go, they cover bump stop extensions, backspacing and max tire size. Note their springs require a 2" bump stop extension to prevent coil bind. This also allows fitting 37" tires, so you are going to have a little extra room.

 

[tecnic1]

4-door Rubicon springs (LF/RF 68253661AC/68253662AC and LR/RR 68253591AA/68253592AA)

This piques my interest.

How much lift would those springs get on a 2 door, 2.0L Rubicon?

 

[scj64]

This was my ‘15 Hard Rock with full MetalCloak rock crawler suspension. The MetalCloak setup totally transformed how this Jeep handled on the highway at speed plus you had the best flexibility off road.
The stock JL’s handle better than the JK’s but after having MetalCloak, I find myself making provisions for adding it to my ‘22 2 door when it gets here.
I know it was overloaded when I hauled my 3500 pound bass boat but after I installed the MetalCloak suspension, never once was I concerned about getting out of shape running down the freeway at speed.

 

[Kreepin1]

This piques my interest.

How much lift would those springs get on a 2 door, 2.0L Rubicon?

My understanding is you get about an inch on a JLR depending on your options. Those are for a JLUR with steel bumper, hard top and tow package.

I brought it up here not so much for the lift but because @PA-Punkn mentioned he was going to be about 400 lbs. overweight and a JLU is 400 lbs. heavier than a JL so my thinking was these springs would be a good match in terms of ride and weight capacity...

 

[PA-Punkn]

When I was lift shopping I enjoyed talking to AEV about their lift and research. Tech told me they work with Mopar. Started with their lift and designed the AEV pretty much inline but able to handle more weight. I didn't go with their lift because I wanted soft springs and heavy shocks like Mopar's lift. If I was overlanding my rig more than rock crawling, AEV would be my choice.
I recently did a 3500 mile 10 day road trip and I was loaded to 5,200 lbs. My Mopar lifted JLR handled fine on the hi way. I attended the Black Hills Jeep Jamboree and wheeled several hundred pounds lighter.
My JLR https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/showcase/biscuit.1163/

You have a very cool build, and we have a lot of crossover mods. Thanks for the feedback on AEV, I was researching their springs or lift kit as possible components.

You gas mileage notes were also very helpful, I'm rolling smaller tires and should be under 5,000 lbs, so using your 17 mpg figure should be a great worst case estimation (I can get 19.0-19.5 mpg highway now with doors and top on, rear seat removed, just me no cargo).

 

[PA-Punkn]

Tough call.

You are a good candidate for 4-door loaded Rubicon springs which would give your about an inch of lift. Here's what I would do:
Synergy Sector Shaft Brace
4-door Rubicon springs (LF/RF 68253661AC/68253662AC and LR/RR 68253591AA/68253592AA)
2 - Mopar lower control arm, Mopar 68322798AA to dial in a bit more caster you lost in the lift
1/2" taller bump stops either through a spacer or something like the Timbrens

This is interesting but I really want to raise higher and weighed down I don't know that I'd really get much lift

But I think the Synergy 2" lift would be a good match too. Stock stocks limit flex, but are near the capability of the stock control arm bushings. So if you want increased flex from longer shocks you also need aftermarket control arms. Synergy is the first manufacturer I've seen that gets it. They are lifting the Jeep 2" and running shocks from a Fox 3.5-4" kit. Here is what I'd do:
Synergy Sector Shaft Brace
Synergy 8822-2000 Stage 2 ($3,095)
Fox 2.5" DSC shocks 883-26-051 and 883-26-055

Yeah I think something like this would be more what I was thinking. I wasn't looking at Synergy but will do some research on your suggestions, thanks! And I agree on the control arms, I really think adjustable control arms should be in the final plan.

You didn't mention which wheels you plan to run, but keep in mind some lifts have minimum backspacing requirements. You should read through the Synergy page regardless of which way you go, they cover bump stop extensions, backspacing and max tire size. Note their springs require a 2" bump stop extension to prevent coil bind. This also allows fitting 37" tires, so you are going to have a little extra room.

Very good point. I'm fine with keeping the OEM Rubi wheels, but if I do need to upgrade I do like these in bronze:

https://www.quadratec.com/p/fuel-offroad/covert-wheel-wrangler-jk-jl

The 17x9's are available with 4.5" or 5.0" backspacing. My concern is around poke. My understanding is PA is very strict about any tire poke beyond the fender flare.

 

[PA-Punkn]

This was my ‘15 Hard Rock with full MetalCloak rock crawler suspension. The MetalCloak setup totally transformed how this Jeep handled on the highway at speed plus you had the best flexibility off road.
The stock JL’s handle better than the JK’s but after having MetalCloak, I find myself making provisions for adding it to my ‘22 2 door when it gets here.
I know it was overloaded when I hauled my 3500 pound bass boat but after I installed the MetalCloak suspension, never once was I concerned about getting out of shape running down the freeway at speed.

Triple-Orange 2 Door JK Rubi - what's not to love? Looks great!

Thanks for the MetalCloak feedback. My buddy just got their adjustable control arms for his JK and was very impressed with the build quality. I did look at their 2.5" Gamechanger lift, they required an upgrade to the front drive shaft and wheels with specific backspacing (much as @Kreepin1 has foreshadowed) so would perhaps be a more involved build versus others, but not out of the question.

Good luck with your 22 JL build!

 

[scj64]

Thanks

I should not have posted after working 18 hours yesterday; I had the GameChanger 2.5” lift with Rocksport shocks.

They offer options for greater than or less than 4.5” back spaced wheels.
I haven’t looked into JL specific front driveshaft requirements needed but most any driveshaft shop can alter your stock setup to work I’m sure.

 

[Kreepin1]

Like the JK, JL driveshafts use CV-style joints. They are vibration free but don't tolerate higher angles well. If you lift it and especially if you add additional droop with aftermarket shocks you will be replacing the driveshafts eventually. And they will have some minor vibration on the hiway.

 

[4xFUN]

I have also have a 20' JLR and had it dialed in near ideal for me...315 KO2's on 8.5" rims with 5.2" backspace, Mopar lift with Teraflex IR control arms, SteerSmarts adjustable track bar along with their drag link and Rubi length tie rod, Rancho adjustable track bar and a few other goodies. Rode and handled great on road, did well off road.

Then I thought I wanted 37" KO2's and just a little more lift and articulation...I probably would have been better off just getting some slightly longer Accutune Fox shocks along with better sway bar links (which I did anyway with the new lift) and calling it a day. Jury is still out on new tires and lift and it is once again a work in progress to get it dialed in, most likely will be doing something different with tires but not sure yet just what.

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