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Mounting the Rhino Backbone Roofrack

Bocephus

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I am midway through mounting the Rhino Backbone Roofrack on my JLUR. Just got the pioneer rack put together. I think I saw somewhere a 45 min build time listed - took me a few hours and one unplanned trip to HW store. Here are a few things for folks mounting up the Rhino Backbone to be aware of.

1.) You'll need to drill four 8.5mm holes in to the Pioneer platform itself. I'm not talking about drilling through the roof (also required); the rack itself requires you to drill four 8.5MM holes. For the bolt to pass through, a 21/64 drill bit works very well. 5/16 is too small.

2.) Regarding where to drill the holes for the above bolts, the documentation from Rhino features conflicting measurements. Here is the key information, based off of calls to Rhino. (They were extremely helpful, courteous, and awesome.) The critical information is this: The hole nearest the rear end of the Side Extrusions should be 663MM from the rear end of the Extrusion. The hole to be drilled further from the rear end of the Side Extrusions should be 1336MM from the rear end of the Side Extrusion. IGNORE COMPLETELY THE INFORMATION THAT SAYS THAT THE TWO DRILLED HOLES SHOULD BE 704MM FROM EACH OTHER. I was confounded as the measurement from the end (at 1336) meant that the hole was no where near being 704MM from the other hole. Turns out the math is just plain wrong, ignore the reference to 704MM. Base your measurement for the second hold on simply being 1336MM from the rear end of the Side Extrusion. It's helpful to have a tape measure with metric markings...I'm probably the only guy who didn't have one already.

3.) When you're building out the Pioneer rack for the JL Rhino Backbone system, ignore the fact that the image of the roof rack on the Rhino Fitting Chart does NOT look like the rack you are working with. The Side Extrusions on the rack you're working with has 5 OEM holes (before you starting drilling) for mounting the Crossbars. The image on the Fitting Chart shows just 3 OEM holes. It caused me some concern that I had been shipped the wrong parts. Turns out, the image is just not correct...per Rhino, the pre-assembled racks do indeed look this way with just the 3 OEM holes for the Crossbars. The non-assembles racks come with the 5 holes. So...don't worry when your rack does not look like the one in the image.

4.) When you're installing the Crossbars using the M8x20mm Dome head screws...the flat washer that goes above the rail appears identical to the flat washer that goes beneath the rail. IT IS NOT IDENTICAL. The flat washer that goes beneath the rail is the same diameter, but about 50% thicker give or take. It's important that the thicker washer go beneath the rail (on top of the channel nut.)

5.) Rhino, on the phone, was kind enough to caution me not to torque down super hard on screw, washers, and channel nut assembly, when bolting the Crossbars to the Side Extrusions. Get em snug, but don't go balls deep - you'll end up warping the aluminum. Too easy.

I wonder if the need for drilling holes in the Pioneer Rack means that a future version will come with the holes drilled in the appropriate spots already. I say "appropriate" because you end up NOT using the OEM holes in two places, and instead you drill the holes (2 on both of the Side Extrusions). Drilling is not super difficult, so long as your measurements are good.

Tomorrow, I'll move on to mounting the backbone system inside the jeep and hopefully everything will come together. Even with the unexpected need to drill the pioneer platform...it still has the look and feel of super quality gear that fits together really well. Looking forward to having it all put together.

Once again - Rhino could not have been more helpful on calls. I was surprised that the reps, during each of my calls (at least a couple) knew exactly my question and had the exact instruction to help me out. Golden.
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Bocephus

Bocephus

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Apologies, I should have posted this in the "Racks, Carriers, Cargo Hauling" section.
Not sure how to move this thread, appreciate it if any moderator can move it on my behalf.
I'll learn my way around this forum soon...
Thanks
 

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4.) When you're installing the Crossbars using the M8x20mm Dome head screws...the flat washer that goes above the rail appears identical to the flat washer that goes beneath the rail. IT IS NOT IDENTICAL. The flat washer that goes beneath the rail is the same diameter, but about 50% thicker give or take. It's important that the thicker washer go beneath the rail (on top of the channel nut.)
What will happen?
 
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Bocephus

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You risk over torquing the bolt with the thinner washer and warping the aluminum frame / rails. The fatter washer helps prevent it, as it occupies more of the gap.
 

irishtim7

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I wonder if the need for drilling holes in the Pioneer Rack means that a future version will come with the holes drilled in the appropriate spots already. I say "appropriate" because you end up NOT using the OEM holes in two places, and instead you drill the holes (2 on both of the Side Extrusions). Drilling is not super difficult, so long as your measurements are good.
You'd think for that kind of money and the amount of time it took them to bring this thing to market that the rack would at least come pre-drilled.
 

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Bocephus

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Just to wrap it up...

- Once I received the missing parts, the rest of the install was mostly uneventful. Overall, a 2 day job. Maybe a long one day, if I did it a second time. Other folks will be more handy, and might take considerably less time.

- Part of the challenge is understanding directions from the three elements. The pioneer tray, the backbone system, and the legs. Each are their own component, with their own instructions. And then there is the fitting chart. You kind of bounce between four documents at least, trying to understand where an instruction from one connects to an instruction from another.

- nuts that were embedded / glued to bracketry came loose, such that I'd have to find them rolling down the driveway and re-glue it to the part where it belonged before I could mount.

-there is an exact amount of hardware included. If you lose a single washer, nut, bolt, don't count on there being extra. I either lost a washer, or one was missing. Made for my final trip to the HW store.

- The directions instruct Butyl Mastic caulking for sealing the holes made in roof where rack connects through to frame. Couldn't find it, wasn't entirely sure of what the equivalent would be. Used something else from local hardware that appeared to have the right properties. Hopefully I'm set.

- The video instruction on YouTube includes a step that the instruction booklets do not. That is, the re-installation of roof inulation / liner. The video advises it as nearly a last step. One comment on the video gives the criticism that the step ought to have been advised as an early step, so that you're not having to completely disconnect - then re-seal and reconnect - the internal backbone and the external (top of roof) rack mount points. This is a valid criticism. It ought to have been advised as an earlier step. Expect to have a Butyl Mastic mess (or whatever you use).

Impressions now that I've had it on for a couple weeks...welp, I like it. No wind noise, no squeaks or creaks from the internal frame. Removing freedom panels take a little care bc they tuck under the rack by several inches. Not really any difficulty to speak of...just need to pay attention with it. Have yet to put a load on there, besides myself and my littlest buddy, but planning a few things.

Cheers all!
 
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Just to wrap it up...

- Once I received the missing parts, the rest of the install was mostly uneventful. Overall, a 2 day job. Maybe a long one day, if I did it a second time. Other folks will be more handy, and might take considerably less time.

- Part of the challenge is understanding directions from the three elements. The pioneer tray, the backbone system, and the legs. Each are their own component, with their own instructions. And then there is the fitting chart. You kind of bounce between four documents at least, trying to understand where an instruction from one connects to an instruction from another.

- nuts that were embedded / glued to bracketry came loose, such that I'd have to find them rolling down the driveway and re-glue it to the part where it belonged before I could mount.

-there is an exact amount of hardware included. If you lose a single washer, nut, bolt, don't count on there being extra. I either lost a washer, or one was missing. Made for my final trip to the HW store.

- The directions instruct Butyl Mastic caulking for sealing the holes made in roof where rack connects through to frame. Couldn't find it, wasn't entirely sure of what the equivalent would be. Used something else from local hardware that appeared to have the right properties. Hopefully I'm set.

- The video instruction on YouTube includes a step that the instruction booklets do not. That is, the re-installation of roof inulation / liner. The video advises it as nearly a last step. One comment on the video gives the criticism that the step ought to have been advised as an early step, so that you're not having to completely disconnect - then re-seal and reconnect - the internal backbone and the external (top of roof) rack mount points. This is a valid criticism. It ought to have been advised as an earlier step. Expect to have a Butyl Mastic mess (or whatever you use).

Impressions now that I've had it on for a couple weeks...welp, I like it. No wind noise, no squeaks or creaks from the internal frame. Removing freedom panels take a little care bc they tuck under the rack by several inches. Not really any difficulty to speak of...just need to pay attention with it. Have yet to put a load on there, besides myself and my littlest buddy, but planning a few things.

Cheers all!
Post-install any indications that the rear caster mounting points are failing like this: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-backbone-pioneer-platform-design-flaw.40634/ ?
 
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Bocephus

Bocephus

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Post-install any indications that the rear caster mounting points are failing like this: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...-backbone-pioneer-platform-design-flaw.40634/ ?
No, I checked the mount points on all sides, all remain secure. I used the low profile legs, not the quick-detach legs. Also, I have not removed the rack since mounting. Also, I have not had significant weight on the rack (such as a roof top tent). Just pointing out that my setting and use-case is not identical to yours.

Were your measurements and drill points on the rack good? How did the alignment between mount-points, legs and rack seem at install?
 
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No, I checked the mount points on all sides, all remain secure. I used the low profile legs, not the quick-detach legs. Also, I have not removed the rack since mounting. Also, I have not had significant weight on the rack (such as a roof top tent). Just pointing out that my setting and use-case is not identical to yours.

Were your measurements and drill points on the rack good? How did the alignment between mount-points, legs and rack seem at install?
I wonder if there is a significant design difference in the low profile versus the quick disconnect with regards to how secure they mount.

Measurements on the rack were spot on for drilling and mounting the RTT. Getting all six legs lined up wasn't too difficult with a helper.
 
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Truly strange. I’d look to see if I could get new rear caster mounting points instead of tapping for larger bolt holes.

Wait now that I think of it....isn’t there a steel nut embedded in the caster mounting point which is what the bolt actually grips to? I think I recall this to be the case. If I’m correct, then perhaps the issue is that your bolt never had good traction / purchase with the nut, and now you’re seeing the wear and tear from the friction of the steel bolt impacting/shearing the aluminum caster mount point.

I recall that the embedded nuts on mine were not well secured. Each time I’d put the caster mount on the Jeep roof, the embedded nuts would fall right out and go rolling. I ended up having to glue them in to keep them from falling out.

if I’m wrong, and in fact the Steel bolt is meant to thread directly against the aluminum caster mounting...then I’d worry about retapping for a larger bolt. I’m no expert (and I’ll welcome correction) but I’d worry that the soft raw (non-adonized or otherwise hardened) aluminum threading would be super vulnerable to stripping again with the pressures from the steel bolt.
 

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Yeah the more I think about it, I don’t think the center holes on the caster mounts were ever threaded. I think the bolt just passed through the hole but actually threads/grasps a steel nut that is supposed to be embedded on the underside of the caster mount. I hope that makes sense. As said before, I had a miserable time because the nuts that were supposed to have been embedded / glued to the mount were in fact not. And so they would fall out (gravity) each time I went to put the caster on the Jeep roof. Super glue finally fixed it so that my nuts stayed in place while positioning the caster on the roof. And so later, when bolting down, the bolts found their home in the nuts.

I would do this - remove the caster mount that you fear is stripped, and examine the backside. There should be an octagonal relief within the backside where the nut ought to be affixed/embedded/glued. If not, then you just need a new nut and Home Depot might be your destination.
 
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Yeah the more I think about it, I don’t think the center holes on the caster mounts were ever threaded. I think the bolt just passed through the hole but actually threads/grasps a steel nut that is supposed to be embedded on the underside of the caster mount. I hope that makes sense. As said before, I had a miserable time because the nuts that were supposed to have been embedded / glued to the mount were in fact not. And so they would fall out (gravity) each time I went to put the caster on the Jeep roof. Super glue finally fixed it so that my nuts stayed in place while positioning the caster on the roof. And so later, when bolting down, the bolts found their home in the nuts.

I would do this - remove the caster mount that you fear is stripped, and examine the backside. There should be an octagonal relief within the backside where the nut ought to be affixed/embedded/glued. If not, then you just need a new nut and Home Depot might be your destination.
I will remove this evening and report back. I'd like to use a thicker bolt and nut if possible, but I remember the channel you are talking about where the nut sits and had a similar issue during installation.

Thank you for your time!
 
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Bocephus

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I will remove this evening and report back. I'd like to use a thicker bolt and nut if possible, but I remember the channel you are talking about where the nut sits and had a similar issue during installation.

Thank you for your time!
no problem, good luck, hope it’s an easy fix!
 
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Bocephus

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So how’d it go?
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