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Most effective way to move to 35s and increase articulation

ormandj

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I'm waiting on a 2024 4xe Rubicon X, so stock 33" tires. I plan to immediately move to 35, probably Baja Boss ATs. Discount shows they will work on 7.5" wide/the stock Rubicon wheels, which would be my preference, but Mickey Thompson says 8" or wider, so I'm not sure what I need to do there.

On the move, I'd like to have no rubbing, and increase articulation, but minimize added complexity. I'm considering a spacer lift with longer shocks, which I realize will increase odds of rubbing. I also realize this may impact alignment.

What suggestions do people have to do this "right"? This is a DD primarily, so on road comfort is of importance, but I'd love to increase the articulation off-road. I had. 2019 JLUR on 35s on stock wheels and found the limited stock suspension frustrating at off-road parks frequently.

Things I've seen suggested in addition to a small spacer lift:

Longer travel shocks (would love suggestions and happy to use accutune)

Do I need to do anything with the electronic sway bar system? I've heard you may need different links if increasing droop?

Bump stop changes?

LCAs to correct suspension geometry. Should I go with Mopar lift LCAs or adjustable from another brand? I'd prefer fixed for less chance of issues with jam nuts backing off but if you can't nail caster or other values with fixed, then adjustable are fine. Proper alignment is critical to driveability, so I don't want to go fixed and be stuck substandard, but if a 1.5" spacer lift and fixed LCAs can nail the setup, then that sounds ideal.

Drag link?

Tie rod?

Any other suggestions? While I am economically conscious, I am more driven by reliability as my primary DD, hence not going all out with 37s, re-gear, axle trussing, knuckle swap, ball joint swap, fully adjustable lift, etc. At the same time, I am 100% a buy once cry once type of person, so I want to do this right.
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Roky

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I'm waiting on a 2024 4xe Rubicon X, so stock 33" tires. I plan to immediately move to 35, probably Baja Boss ATs. Discount shows they will work on 7.5" wide/the stock Rubicon wheels, which would be my preference, but Mickey Thompson says 8" or wider, so I'm not sure what I need to do there.

On the move, I'd like to have no rubbing, and increase articulation, but minimize added complexity. I'm considering a spacer lift with longer shocks, which I realize will increase odds of rubbing. I also realize this may impact alignment.

What suggestions do people have to do this "right"? This is a DD primarily, so on road comfort is of importance, but I'd love to increase the articulation off-road. I had. 2019 JLUR on 35s on stock wheels and found the limited stock suspension frustrating at off-road parks frequently.

Things I've seen suggested in addition to a small spacer lift:

Longer travel shocks (would love suggestions and happy to use accutune)

Do I need to do anything with the electronic sway bar system? I've heard you may need different links if increasing droop?

Bump stop changes?

LCAs to correct suspension geometry. Should I go with Mopar lift LCAs or adjustable from another brand? I'd prefer fixed for less chance of issues with jam nuts backing off but if you can't nail caster or other values with fixed, then adjustable are fine. Proper alignment is critical to driveability, so I don't want to go fixed and be stuck substandard, but if a 1.5" spacer lift and fixed LCAs can nail the setup, then that sounds ideal.

Drag link?

Tie rod?

Any other suggestions? While I am economically conscious, I am more driven by reliability as my primary DD, hence not going all out with 37s, re-gear, axle trussing, knuckle swap, ball joint swap, fully adjustable lift, etc. At the same time, I am 100% a buy once cry once type of person, so I want to do this right.
Does the rubi x come with the same lift height as the xr ?
 
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ormandj

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Does the rubi x come with the same lift height as the xr ?
Not on the 4xe. I'm looking forward to your input, I looked at RK pretty heavily along with MC and Clayton, and definitely see you as having the most RK experience. It's hard comparing the vendors since they all seem reasonably good, and most folks aren't objective enough to fairly evaluate products. Your threads have been great, since you seem to call out good and bad.
 
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mwilk012

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Replace the fenders with Rubicon high clearance flares or you’ll need more bump stop. For increased flex, youll need a quality lift, not spacers.
 
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ormandj

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Replace the fenders with Rubicon high clearance flares or you’ll need more bump stop. For increased flex, youll need a quality lift, not spacers.
I have a Rubicon X 4xe on order (4 door). It already has those flares. Are the stock shocks not the limiting factor on the stock suspension?

My issue with lifts is the vast majority start at 2.5" and go up from there, and that's too much gap for 35" tires. The Clayton 1.5" is the only one I'm aware of that is shorter, but I'm not sure you're gaining much over stock beyond what the additional shock length gives you.
 

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mwilk012

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I have a Rubicon X 4xe on order (4 door). It already has those flares. Are the stock shocks not the limiting factor on the stock suspension?

My issue with lifts is the vast majority start at 2.5" and go up from there, and that's too much gap for 35" tires. The Clayton 1.5" is the only one I'm aware of that is shorter, but I'm not sure you're gaining much over stock beyond what the additional shock length gives you.
My point was more general, not just for your specific Jeep.

Arguably, a 2.5” lift with 35’s will give more articulation that with 37’s, you have more room for uptravel.

What are you trying to do with the Jeep?
 
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ormandj

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My point was more general, not just for your specific Jeep.

Arguably, a 2.5” lift with 35’s will give more articulation that with 37’s, you have more room for uptravel.

What are you trying to do with the Jeep?
Daily driver 80% of the time, overland style offroading 15%, and then off-road parks 5% but no level 7+. It's my daily so can't risk flipping it.

Skip the 4xe on your RubiX and get the XR 1.5" lift and 35's straight from the factory.
Not happening. Jeep is already ordered and I already have multiple PHEVs and they work very well for us. Appreciate the suggestion though! I can always buy the Mopar lift but it seems like there are a lot of aftermarket options I assume are better.
 
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Kracka

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Not happening. Jeep is already ordered and I already have multiple PHEVs and they work very well for us. Appreciate the suggestion though! I can always buy the Mopar lift but it seems like there are a lot of aftermarket options I assume are better.
Understood! We had a Chevy Volt back in the day. We have a '23 Rubicon as my wife's toy and I've been debating how to lift it as well. You can't go wrong the the Mopar lift since it's factory backed and won't screw with the warranty on a new vehicle. I've also been looking at the AEV 2" spacer lift since there's nothing wrong with the factory Rubicon shocks & springs.
 

Zandcwhite

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If you are interested in increased articulation, you will need control arm bushings that allow articulation.
Only the front lowers were changed, and they are Rubicon express with a standard bushing at one end. Your sway bar and shocks are about the only limits to articulation before you push past needing a front drive shaft, brake lines, and even a drag link with high clearance ends.
As for the OP, a spacer lift, longer shocks, longer sway bar end links front and rear, and front control arm drop brackets will amaze you with both ride quality and flex. If you aren't going over 2' I wouldn't even bother with track bars or steering components as the axles will be less than a 1/2" off center at that point.
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Jeep Wrangler JL Most effective way to move to 35s and increase articulation 20211003_105246
 
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XX4XEXX

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Ok so 1 start over your looking at this wrong and asking the wrong questions but on the right path "what you desire and how to get there".

Now let's begin. If you want to run 35s and are worried about scrubb or rub all you need to do is get adjustable bump stops. OE jeeps will fit 35s. But before we go there...

If all your trying to do is that stop here!

Now if your wanting to gain height to flex and run 35s that's different and you have several options. Your 1st option is a level kit. These kits do NOT need UCAs whatsoever as nothing changes to geometry at all. Level kits stack on top of your coils and allow to retain factory suspension kinda like a body lift in a way. Yes your center of gravity changes a bit, yes you will fit 35s possible 37s but NO you do NOT need shocks but all this is set on bump stop height.

Lifting sky's the limit and in most cases above 2" you should at minimal buy LCAs however the adjustment is so minimal you practically do not need them.

Over 2.5" LCAs are a must and at minimum FTB and most definitely a sector shaft brace, with shocks.

Bigger then this all 8 arms FTB and RTB possibly TR and DL.

Reading your post and to make life easy just buy the Mopar lift (if NOT a 4xe, despite feed back they do NOT work). The lift will come with everything you need and then some. Less expensive route source your favorite flavor brand leveling kit and be done. You mentioned concerns of fitment however the only true way to correct ot set for this is to pull your coils, install your tires, flex the rear and then front while setting your bump stops. Bump stops are a Jeeps (or live axle) limit!

To answer your question about Mickey Thompson suggestion about wheel width this would equal .25 of an inch in and out of the recommend size. This is not an issue unless you air down alot and even then 7.5 (not talking PS or BS factors) on a recommend 8" is very minimal. Keep in mind on tires do not buy for style or looks factor in driving conditions people always make this mistake. The famous line "I run 35" Nitto Trail Grappler MTs bro) or "yes 37s will fit). Tires should be bought on what you need and Nittos or any MT suck on road are loud and are extremely terrible in wet conditions, also don't forget tire weight.

If your stuck on Mickey Thompsons the Trail Boss AT is a phenomenal tire but heavy and loud. @Discount Tire .

More questions from here drop a line.

Side note: the Mopar lift is NOT "factory" backed any different then any other lift! Just because it says Mopar doesn't mean you now have a super warranty. As a matter of fact as soon as you touch anything on your Jeep it's now up to the dealers discretion and you can fight it till your blue in the face this is even dealer installed. If it's not on the build sheet your SOL. Mopar uses stamped steel and everything is below meh but you lift. Someone mentioned bushings to not bind, NOPE.

Stick with Synergy, EVO, Clayton, Metalcloak on a lift.

Level kits same but Terraflex, RC, Readylift, etc are very good as well!
Jeep Wrangler JL Most effective way to move to 35s and increase articulation 1000001692
 

Zandcwhite

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Ok so 1 start over your looking at this wrong and asking the wrong questions but on the right path "what you desire and how to get there".

Now let's begin. If you want to run 35s and are worried about scrubb or rub all you need to do is get adjustable bump stops. OE jeeps will fit 35s. But before we go there...

If all your trying to do is that stop here!

Now if your wanting to gain height to flex and run 35s that's different and you have several options. Your 1st option is a level kit. These kits do NOT need UCAs whatsoever as nothing changes to geometry at all. Level kits stack on top of your coils and allow to retain factory suspension kinda like a body lift in a way. Yes your center of gravity changes a bit, yes you will fit 35s possible 37s but NO you do NOT need shocks but all this is set on bump stop height.

Lifting sky's the limit and in most cases above 2" you should at minimal buy LCAs however the adjustment is so minimal you practically do not need them.

Over 2.5" LCAs are a must and at minimum FTB and most definitely a sector shaft brace, with shocks.

Bigger then this all 8 arms FTB and RTB possibly TR and DL.

Reading your post and to make life easy just buy the Mopar lift (if NOT a 4xe, despite feed back they do NOT work). The lift will come with everything you need and then some. Less expensive route source your favorite flavor brand leveling kit and be done. You mentioned concerns of fitment however the only true way to correct ot set for this is to pull your coils, install your tires, flex the rear and then front while setting your bump stops. Bump stops are a Jeeps (or live axle) limit!

To answer your question about Mickey Thompson suggestion about wheel width this would equal .25 of an inch in and out of the recommend size. This is not an issue unless you air down alot and even then 7.5 (not talking PS or BS factors) on a recommend 8" is very minimal. Keep in mind on tires do not buy for style or looks factor in driving conditions people always make this mistake. The famous line "I run 35" Nitto Trail Grappler MTs bro) or "yes 37s will fit). Tires should be bought on what you need and Nittos or any MT suck on road are loud and are extremely terrible in wet conditions, also don't forget tire weight.

If your stuck on Mickey Thompsons the Trail Boss AT is a phenomenal tire but heavy and loud. @Discount Tire .

More questions from here drop a line.
A leveling kit doesn't change the geometry because the spacer stacks on top of the coils? There's literally no part of the geometry that isn't changed. Sure if it's a1" kit it's not a significant change, but I'd argue that caster is too low at factory height. At a minimum I'd add the Mopar extended lcas even if I was keeping my jeep stock height as I find it tracks better and rides better at +6⁰ regardless of height.
 
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ormandj

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Ok so 1 start over your looking at this wrong and asking the wrong questions but on the right path "what you desire and how to get there".

Now let's begin. If you want to run 35s and are worried about scrubb or rub all you need to do is get adjustable bump stops. OE jeeps will fit 35s. But before we go there...

If all your trying to do is that stop here!
I think I made very clear what I was looking for. Definitely not this.

Now if your wanting to gain height to flex and run 35s that's different and you have several options. Your 1st option is a level kit. These kits do NOT need UCAs whatsoever as nothing changes to geometry at all. Level kits stack on top of your coils and allow to retain factory suspension kinda like a body lift in a way. Yes your center of gravity changes a bit, yes you will fit 35s possible 37s but NO you do NOT need shocks but all this is set on bump stop height.

Lifting sky's the limit and in most cases above 2" you should at minimal buy LCAs however the adjustment is so minimal you practically do not need them.

Over 2.5" LCAs are a must and at minimum FTB and most definitely a sector shaft brace, with shocks.

Bigger then this all 8 arms FTB and RTB possibly TR and DL.

Reading your post and to make life easy just buy the Mopar lift (if NOT a 4xe, despite feed back they do NOT work). The lift will come with everything you need and then some. Less expensive route source your favorite flavor brand leveling kit and be done. You mentioned concerns of fitment however the only true way to correct ot set for this is to pull your coils, install your tires, flex the rear and then front while setting your bump stops. Bump stops are a Jeeps (or live axle) limit!
As I mentioned in my first post, it is a 4xe, and I am looking for specific suggestions, even if something different than I offered up. I am not trying to be inflammatory and I do appreciate the information, but I've already covered all this ground. I wasn't planning to do 2"+ lifts because at that point 35s start looking small, and I'm not sure I want the additional suspension and driveline updates needed for a reliable 37" DD.

To answer your question about Mickey Thompson suggestion about wheel width this would equal .25 of an inch in and out of the recommend size. This is not an issue unless you air down alot and even then 7.5 (not talking PS or BS factors) on a recommend 8" is very minimal. Keep in mind on tires do not buy for style or looks factor in driving conditions people always make this mistake. The famous line "I run 35" Nitto Trail Grappler MTs bro) or "yes 37s will fit). Tires should be bought on what you need and Nittos or any MT suck on road are loud and are extremely terrible in wet conditions, also don't forget tire weight.

If your stuck on Mickey Thompsons the Trail Boss AT is a phenomenal tire but heavy and loud. @Discount Tire .

More questions from here drop a line.
I've owned many on and off-road tires, and have had many Jeeps in the past, and have been down this road before. I appreciate the input but I am well aware of tradeoffs which is why I suggested this specific tire. I've owned Nitto Ridge Grapplers, KO2s, etc in the past. From what I've heard re the MT BB ATs they are no louder than the BFGs, especially after some miles, and won't scare the ever living crap out of me in the wet, unlike the KO2s. I am always open to other suggestions, but I also am not just mentioning those tires without having done some research.

I'm really looking for input from those who've been lifting JLs and have already done all the trial and error so I can avoid wasting money. This is a DD primarily, but I'm trying to add a little off-road capability to what is already quite capable while not negatively impacting life with it on the road.
 

XX4XEXX

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This is totally incorrect do the math. +6° always the number to shoot for in most cases not all. Spacers do not effect geometry (talking 1 to 2 possibly 2.75 haven't worked the numbers on 2.
75). LCAs are NOT needed with spacers you can attain beyond +8° even bind the shaft, lol.

Even though we're talking Mopar stamped LCAs under measurement check the math. Lol


A leveling kit doesn't change the geometry because the spacer stacks on top of the coils? There's literally no part of the geometry that isn't changed. Sure if it's a1" kit it's not a significant change, but I'd argue that caster is too low at factory height. At a minimum I'd add the Mopar extended lcas even if I was keeping my jeep stock height as I find it tracks better and rides better at +6⁰ regardless of height.
 
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ormandj

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Only the front lowers were changed, and they are Rubicon express with a standard bidding at one end. Your sway bar and shocks are about the only limits to articulation before you push past needing a front drive shaft, brake lines, and even a drag link with high clearance ends.
As for the OP, a spacer lift, longer shocks, longer sway bar end links front and rear, and front control arm drop brackets will amaze you with both ride quality and flex. If you aren't going over 2' I wouldn't even bother with track bars or steering components as the axles will be less than a 1/2" off center at that point.
Jeep Wrangler JL Most effective way to move to 35s and increase articulation 1000001692
Jeep Wrangler JL Most effective way to move to 35s and increase articulation 1000001692
Jeep Wrangler JL Most effective way to move to 35s and increase articulation 1000001692
Any suggestions for the above mentioned parts? It seems like you understand what I'm aiming for! I appreciate it, and great looking Jeep.
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