More flex out of Rubi w. Xtreme Recon Package

[Jtphoto]

Correct, you don’t need the longer shock and can easily use the shorter version but the longer shocks will work as well. I have longtravel Metal Cloak RockSports on my rig.

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[CptFloridaMan]

What are you XR guys doing for front driveshafts with these long shocks?

 

[Old Jeeper]

You won’t notice a big difference in the control arms until you change shocks and springs. There will be a small difference, mainly you won’t bind up , may not be as much clunking, but the stock set up won’t let you articulate enough to get the full potential from new arms. Even the Recon. Also, after you increase articulation, I’d recommend getting new sway links if you’re gonna use the elect disco. A double heim works a lot better. If you’re getting new wheels, 4.5” bs will work better for RK arms if you go that route.

Do I think it’s worth doing? Sure, absolutely, your just making your rig better, and that’s always a good thing…..

X2


To the OP. FreedomFur. Your XR will give some lift, around 2 maybe a bit more. At that point you are stil inside the parameters of the JLUR. Unless want to dance outside of that then you don't NEED anymore adds.

FYI, your Rubi in Box Stock OEM format has more ability that you do as a driver. I don't mean this as a negative,

The 2003 TJR: The Jeep was engineered to be a rock crawler by Jeep. The metric was the Rubicon Trail. Jeep had to drive it in OEM with no ad ons of anyt kind. The is why its called a Rubicon! You JLR is just as capable as the orginial

Rubbing: I hear a LOT about it on the forum. I like rubbing but unlike most they trim their fenders before they mount the tires. WHY? Rubbing tells me I am at FULL STUFF and on which side I am. I trim post tire install a litle at time and I use spray paint to judge with. I want to BARELY rub the spray paint.

Think about it: At full stuff (with tires aired DOWN...duh, 3-5 psi for me) when I hear the rub, I know I am at full stuff, I also know I out of STUFF! This helps me adjust my line of approach because I always strive to have artiiculation in play. I am a techical rock crawler, I read the rocks and sounds of Jeep and adjust. Full Stuff tells me I need more articulation, move my line.

I keep telling secrets of the rocks!

Your Jeep, you wallet do it your way and will back you 100%

 

[XtremeRetard]

What are you XR guys doing for front driveshafts with these long shocks?

Should be ok to around 28" of shock travel.. after that.. you need an aftermarket one.. The XR gets you only so far..

 

[Chip]

Ok, y'all - I just got done rigging mine up my front like nyglt56 has done. I used the longer Mopar LCA's, 1.5" Terraflex front spacers, and MetalCloak RockSport extended travel shocks. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the swaybar links and I was able to find a pair of 12" links from a buddy on loan for me to test with.

I'm on original XR 35" BFG's yet and didn't think I'd need to add any bumpstop yet, so I tried it in the ditch out front and I'm happy with it. Of course, the 12" links are too long, so after measuring, I'll be installing some that will be in the 9" to 10" range. Also, with the stock 35" BFG tires, no added bumpstop looks necessary. Eventually, I'll be putting on 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers and at that point, I'll add bumpstops as necessary.

I can confirm the factory XR springs are plenty long - still seated tightly at full droop in my testing. The longer LCA's may have helped with straight line driving a slight bit, It's a very small difference if any, but mine drove pretty good from the factory anyway.

 

[GATORB8]

Ok, y'all - I just got done rigging mine up my front like nyglt56 has done. I used the longer Mopar LCA's, 1.5" Terraflex front spacers, and MetalCloak RockSport extended travel shocks. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the swaybar links and I was able to find a pair of 12" links from a buddy on loan for me to test with.

I'm on original XR 35" BFG's yet and didn't think I'd need to add any bumpstop yet, so I tried it in the ditch out front and I'm happy with it. Of course, the 12" links are too long, so after measuring, I'll be installing some that will be in the 9" to 10" range. Also, with the stock 35" BFG tires, no added bumpstop looks necessary. Eventually, I'll be putting on 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers and at that point, I'll add bumpstops as necessary.

I can confirm the factory XR springs are plenty long - still seated tightly at full droop in my testing. The longer LCA's may have helped with straight line driving a slight bit, It's a very small difference if any, but mine drove pretty good from the factory anyway.

Nice, you get all 30” on the droop side?

Edit, also keep an eye out for the shock body hitting the frame on full flex.

 

[Chip]

Nice, you get all 30” on the droop side?

Edit, also keep an eye out for the shock body hitting the frame on full flex.

Good point - I was mainly checking to make sure my brake/sensor lines were not stressed and springs were still seated. Never even thought to measure shock extension or for shock rubbing the frame. I'll check it this weekend.

 

[XtremeRetard]

With the MC offset mount you get closer to 31" droop maybe more as it raises the shock a little.

 

[Chip]

Nice, you get all 30” on the droop side?

Edit, also keep an eye out for the shock body hitting the frame on full flex.

Finally got around to measuring today. I measured 29.5" extended shock length on the rocksport shocks. They have a shim on one side at the top to hold them further from the frame. At static, full extension, shock body comes within 3/8"of the frame. So, there's a chance it could rub when actually wheeling in the real world.

Other than that, stock XR springs still solidly seated, brake and sensor lines have enough slack and all looks good! The only other thing I have to do is get my Clayton adjustable links installed. (Currently on order). I'm pretty happy with it for not much cash spent!

 

[GATORB8]

Finally got around to measuring today. I measured 29.5" extended shock length on the rocksport shocks. They have a shim on one side at the top to hold them further from the frame. At static, full extension, shock body comes within 3/8"of the frame. So, there's a chance it could rub when actually wheeling in the real world.

Other than that, stock XR springs still solidly seated, brake and sensor lines have enough slack and all looks good! The only other thing I have to do is get my Clayton adjustable links installed. (Currently on order). I'm pretty happy with it for not much cash spent!

Great. Solid planning, love me a personally designed frankenlift.

 

[Affroe]

Ok, y'all - I just got done rigging mine up my front like nyglt56 has done. I used the longer Mopar LCA's, 1.5" Terraflex front spacers, and MetalCloak RockSport extended travel shocks. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the swaybar links and I was able to find a pair of 12" links from a buddy on loan for me to test with.

I'm on original XR 35" BFG's yet and didn't think I'd need to add any bumpstop yet, so I tried it in the ditch out front and I'm happy with it. Of course, the 12" links are too long, so after measuring, I'll be installing some that will be in the 9" to 10" range. Also, with the stock 35" BFG tires, no added bumpstop looks necessary. Eventually, I'll be putting on 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers and at that point, I'll add bumpstops as necessary.

I can confirm the factory XR springs are plenty long - still seated tightly at full droop in my testing. The longer LCA's may have helped with straight line driving a slight bit, It's a very small difference if any, but mine drove pretty good from the factory anyway.

Did you use any spacers in the rear?

 

[Chip]

Did you use any spacers in the rear?

Not yet. I like the level stance right now, but will do rear spacers and bumpstops all around when I switch to 37" trail grapplers once the stock 35" BFG tires wear out.

 

[ArmyRN]

https://jksmfg.com/products/front-a...h-bump-stop-acos-wrangler-jl-and-gladiator-jt

This might be a solution for the XR package with a ton more adjustability.

Yeah - I know I'm replying to an old post.

But I was interested in these JKS ACOS things (just got a new 23 JLU Willys XR and the extra-long bump-stop just bugs me), so I researched this a little bit.

At first I thought these would require major fabrication. Nope. Essentially cut off a lower portion of the factory bump-stop tube, and these just slide right up. Here's a video (about 9 minutes long - a well done video). It is on the JKS Manufacturing Facebook page. If you have any interest in these ACOS things, please watch the video - it'll explain a lot:

Facebook




The ACOS starts out with a 1" lift, and can adjust to 3.5" lift. However, you can trim an inch (or more) off the threaded tube, so now you only have a 1" - 2.5" lift range, but you've shortened the bump-stop 1" on the ACOS (he goes over it in the video). I asked JKS how tall the whole assembly was, and their response was 9" - 10" (not really helpful JKS guys). The more you trim the threaded tube, the less additional adjustability beyond 1" you'd get.

I don't know how long, or how much longer the factory XR bump-stop is compared to a non-XR JL Jeep.

They sell a similar ACOS for the rear, but it starts at a 2" lift (2" - 4" adjustability). This one's bolt-on with minimal drilling.

Rear Adjustable Coil Spacers | Jeep Wrangler JL – JKS Manufacturing (jksmfg.com)

So if you wanted to do a mild lift (1" - 2"), trim the bump-stop length a bit, and/or you added a heavier bumper and winch up front and want to raise it back up, you could bring the front end back up (1" minimum to start - don't forget) with this ACOS. Then for the rear, a simple 0.5" to 1" (or greater) spacer to level it out. Add your flavor of shocks, Mopar LCAs (if you haven't already - I have), and essentially be done.

Somebody's going to mention track bars - that's a different discussion.

I've already got a tricked-out TJ for off-roading and overlanding. My new Willys JLU XR 2.0T is going to be my daily driver and mild overlanding vehicle. I'm good with the factory 4.56 & 35" tire combo. I have no plans on going to 37" tires or regearing, but eventually will put true-tracs front & rear, and different shocks (when these shocks wear out). But a mild lift and a little bit of additional flex - now we're talking.

 

[Sahara4xeland]

Ok, y'all - I just got done rigging mine up my front like nyglt56 has done. I used the longer Mopar LCA's, 1.5" Terraflex front spacers, and MetalCloak RockSport extended travel shocks. The only thing I wasn't sure about was the swaybar links and I was able to find a pair of 12" links from a buddy on loan for me to test with.

I'm on original XR 35" BFG's yet and didn't think I'd need to add any bumpstop yet, so I tried it in the ditch out front and I'm happy with it. Of course, the 12" links are too long, so after measuring, I'll be installing some that will be in the 9" to 10" range. Also, with the stock 35" BFG tires, no added bumpstop looks necessary. Eventually, I'll be putting on 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers and at that point, I'll add bumpstops as necessary.

I can confirm the factory XR springs are plenty long - still seated tightly at full droop in my testing. The longer LCA's may have helped with straight line driving a slight bit, It's a very small difference if any, but mine drove pretty good from the factory anyway.

Hey my friend.

Can you still confirm you had no issues with this setup. ???
Planning on doing the exact same setup on my XR willys to get more flex. I am just afraid of the spring flying out. Front 1.5 spacers and rocksport shocks looks like the ticket to improve the suspension on a budget..

 

[Chip]

Can you still confirm you had no issues with this setup. ???
Planning on doing the exact same setup on my XR willys to get more flex. I am just afraid of the spring flying out. Front 1.5 spacers and rocksport shocks looks like the ticket to improve the suspension on a budget..

So far, so good. I will note that mine is a Rubicon with the 3.6 E torque - where yours is a 4xe Willys, so you may want to research whether you have the exact same springs as a 3.6 Rubicon XR. If they're not, I can't say for sure if it would work for you.

I maxed out each side with a hi-lift and sway bar disconnected to check for any interference (you will prolly need to bend your brake line bracket on the lower control arm upwards by hand to gain a little more play). Springs were still seated firmly. I've also wheeled a couple trails since then with no issues. The only other updated info I have since my last post is I got my Clayton Overland sway bar end links installed and set the eye to eye length at 10".

About 2,500 miles since the mod and it works and drives great!

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