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Mopar or Dynatrac 2" Lift

Mopar or Dynatrac


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QRAWLER

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Need help deciding which lift to install on my JLUR. Both kits are similarly priced. Mopar seems to give more than 2" of lift while many state Dynactrac is a true 2". I have 35" tires already so I'm not looking for a big lift (which will make the tires look too small).

The Mopar kit also has more components (sway bar links, lower control arms). Installer is recommending Mopar but will gladly install whatever I wish.
Here’s my 2018 JLU with Mopar lift (before I traded it), actually gained about 3”. Wheels are 17” -12 offset fuel zephyrs with 35” KM3’s

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702SaharaJL

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anymore updates on this topic? I'm looking at lifts right now, and I'm going back and forth between the 2. Can't seem to find any specific differences that set them apart.
 

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anymore updates on this topic? I'm looking at lifts right now, and I'm going back and forth between the 2. Can't seem to find any specific differences that set them apart.
What's your intended use for your Jeep? Also, is it safe to assume that you won't be going larger than a 315 (35") tire?

The Mopar will probably give you a noticeable amount more height than the Dynatrac.

The Dynatrac shock/spring combo will be more fine tuned to each other, because this particular Fox 2.0 shock was specifically valved/shimmed to work the best with the Dynatrac spring. This kit was designed to improve on road comfort and handling, while also enhancing off road capability through increased ground and tire to fender clearance.

I can't comment to much on the Mopar, because I've never used one. Their shock/spring combo should work well, but the Fox 2.5's aren't tuned to their springs. I've read that they ride a bit stiffer than stock, so that would be a benefit when adding any weight to our inside the vehicle.

With either option, I would highly suggest adjustable front and rear track bars and front lower control arms. The fixed length arms that come with the Mopar are nice, but adjustables would help with fine tuning their length to your Jeep and will be stronger and have higher quality bushings than both the stock and Mopar lift arms.
 

702SaharaJL

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What's your intended use for your Jeep? Also, is it safe to assume that you won't be going larger than a 315 (35") tire?

The Mopar will probably give you a noticeable amount more height than the Dynatrac.

The Dynatrac shock/spring combo will be more fine tuned to each other, because this particular Fox 2.0 shock was specifically valved/shimmed to work the best with the Dynatrac spring. This kit was designed to improve on road comfort and handling, while also enhancing off road capability through increased ground and tire to fender clearance.

I can't comment to much on the Mopar, because I've never used one. Their shock/spring combo should work well, but the Fox 2.5's aren't tuned to their springs. I've read that they ride a bit stiffer than stock, so that would be a benefit when adding any weight to our inside the vehicle.

With either option, I would highly suggest adjustable front and rear track bars and front lower control arms. The fixed length arms that come with the Mopar are nice, but adjustables would help with fine tuning their length to your Jeep and will be stronger and have higher quality bushings than both the stock and Mopar lift arms.
It's my daily driver and I like to off road. I'm pretty aggressive out there so I was gonna put the Micky Thompson 37" ATZ Baja's. Just trying to decide on what 2" lift (trying to retain warranty).

My buddy has a JT with the 2" Mopar and the same tires. Looks great and he can go anywhere, clearance has never been an issue.

I've just seen a lot about the Dynatrac lift, but nothing specific saying why it's better than the Mopar lift. I did hear the shocks were better.
 

Hayseed_JLUR

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I have had the DT on for a while and 10k miles. Mostly road but some aggressive trails as well. No rubbing with AEV JL wheels and 35" tires. Rides and track just fine (better than stock) without changing anything else. We do not weigh it down and I put on aluminum bumpers to shave quite a bit of weight as well. Parts quality has been great on the DT. Installation is stupid simple.

We load our JK up and have the AEV lift on it. If things change on the JL - we start loading to the point of sagging - we will put the AEV lift on before we would go Mopar.

Jeep Wrangler JL Mopar or Dynatrac 2" Lift jl060520
 

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Headbarcode

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It's my daily driver and I like to off road. I'm pretty aggressive out there so I was gonna put the Micky Thompson 37" ATZ Baja's. Just trying to decide on what 2" lift (trying to retain warranty).

My buddy has a JT with the 2" Mopar and the same tires. Looks great and he can go anywhere, clearance has never been an issue.

I've just seen a lot about the Dynatrac lift, but nothing specific saying why it's better than the Mopar lift. I did hear the shocks were better.
Lol Until checking your profile, I thought you were thinking of 37's on Sahara axles and gearing.

What's your budget?

I ask, because it sounds like you might be better off with a more complete lift. The Mopar and Dynatrac are nice starter lifts, but they require filling in a lot of blanks for those of us that really plan on using them.

I currently have the Dynatrac because I originally planned on not going bigger than 35's and wanted to keep cog as low as possible without losing travel. Dynatracs claim of being a true 2" is what hooked me. I also wanted everything else suspension and steering related to be beefed up to support the lift and bigger tires. I did the full SteerSmarts front end and track bar and replaced all 8 control arms and rear track bar with Synergy adjustables. Once i got everything dialed in, it was beautiful. Overall performance was way better than the day i got it.

Here's the rub. I thought the 35's would drag drivability down, but the 2.0/8-speed/4.10 combo didn't even notice the size jump. Also, I began thinking of how beefed up things were for such a mild lift and tire size. For the same $, I wish i had just gone with the Metalcloak 3.5" Gamechanger with rocksport shocks.

I've been switching parts for the last couple months. I'm now sitting on new wheels wrapped in 38's, all fenders chopped and filled with AAL parts, and suspension parts are piling up. I'm pulling the Dynatrac lift and am replacing it with everything from the 3.5" Gamechanger minus the control arms and track bars. And because I'm interested in being able to carry some speed through the wash boards on top of crawling, i skipped the rocksports and went with the 6-packs.

Apologies for being a bit long winded, but thought I'd share my situation to help you short cut. If you'll be a bit aggressive and playful on the trails, you really should consider beefing everything up to be able to stand against the added forces and leverage caused by larger tires. Also, Micky's are a true to size tire. You might want to think about more lift, not only for tire to fender clearance, but to get the travel needed for the desert running and rock crawling I here about in your neck of the woods. Buy once, cry once, and enjoy!
 

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And because I'm interested in being able to carry some speed through the wash boards on top of crawling
How did the Dynatrac do on the chattery stuff? I'd love to get a suspension that's more supple than stock on washboards and babyheads. I'm wondering if the Fox shocks are valved a bit better for that.
 

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How did the Dynatrac do on the chattery stuff? I'd love to get a suspension that's more supple than stock on washboards and babyheads. I'm wondering if the Fox shocks are valved a bit better for that.
Definitely, dynatracs claim of reduced head toss is true. A couple of small bumps down the first block was enough to notice the improved ride over stock. But I have to say, at least with my Rubi, the 2" was enough to throw off the geometry. Both axles were 1/2" off center side to side and the caster was too low causing wander. I would highly recommend adjustable front lower control arms and track bars at a minimum.
 

InvertedLogic

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Definitely, dynatracs claim of reduced head toss is true. A couple of small bumps down the first block was enough to notice the improved ride over stock. But I have to say, at least with my Rubi, the 2" was enough to throw off the geometry. Both axles were 1/2" off center side to side and the caster was too low causing wander. I would highly recommend adjustable front lower control arms and track bars at a minimum.
Good to hear. Yeah my current plan is the EnduroSport 2" shocks/springs/etc, AEV correction bracket, one of the adjustable front TBs (Rancho perhaps?), and a rear TB relo bracket (Synergy is the only one I've found for a 2" lift). Goal is to get a bit more clearance for 35s, improve higher speed stability, and get the benefit or more clearance.
 

Hayseed_JLUR

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Good to hear. Yeah my current plan is the EnduroSport 2" shocks/springs/etc, AEV correction bracket, one of the adjustable front TBs (Rancho perhaps?), and a rear TB relo bracket (Synergy is the only one I've found for a 2" lift). Goal is to get a bit more clearance for 35s, improve higher speed stability, and get the benefit or more clearance.

The AEV brackets are good - I have them on my JK. But if you can get same results with LCA's, then do it that way. The brackets will reduce ground clearance.

Without TB, my rear is fine and the front is not off enough to be a concern. My OCD will not allow me to measure or I will correct it. Almost no wander with factory LCA. If I ever feel like taking apart the front, I will put on adjustable LCA to bring it up but it really does not need it on mine.
 

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rancej

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Great thread as I'm in the same boat, looking at Mopar, Dynatrac's and AEV DualSport's. I've got KO2 33's now and, since they are fairly new with less than 300 miles on them, I'll be keeping for a while. @Hayseed_JLUR your info here has been valuable. I am looking to add new bumpers/winch soon as well. When you spoke of loading up and possibly going to the AEV would I be wrong in going with the DualSport's from the start?
 

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Great thread as I'm in the same boat, looking at Mopar, Dynatrac's and AEV DualSport's. I've got KO2 33's now and, since they are fairly new with less than 300 miles on them, I'll be keeping for a while. @Hayseed_JLUR your info here has been valuable. I am looking to add new bumpers/winch soon as well. When you spoke of loading up and possibly going to the AEV would I be wrong in going with the DualSport's from the start?

No the DT will take a lot of load from the start. It is a true 2" with stock stuff and 1.75" in front with winch. With the aluminum bumpers I may be pushing it just over 2". With 35's, I still have 3" over stock Rubicon. So what if it sags 1/4-1/2" loaded. Still have enough clearance to check my boxes. I have not rubbed on any trails - yes at full articulation disconnected. I have bent the rear bumper on the ground but no rubbing. Now, with the aluminum bumpers, all the plastic crap is gone in the rear so definitely no rubbing.

Big fan of the AEV. Issue is that it is higher than advertised. On my JK, I got approx 3.5" lift. It also rides stiffer than the DT.
 

rancej

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No the DT will take a lot of load from the start. It is a true 2" with stock stuff and 1.75" in front with winch. With the aluminum bumpers I may be pushing it just over 2". With 35's, I still have 3" over stock Rubicon. So what if it sags 1/4-1/2" loaded. Still have enough clearance to check my boxes. I have not rubbed on any trails - yes at full articulation disconnected. I have bent the rear bumper on the ground but no rubbing. Now, with the aluminum bumpers, all the plastic crap is gone in the rear so definitely no rubbing.

Big fan of the AEV. Issue is that it is higher than advertised. On my JK, I got approx 3.5" lift. It also rides stiffer than the DT.
Good info and thanks for the quick reply.
 

rancej

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My choices are driven mostly by practicality and not money or pride. If the DT stops checking my boxes, I will man-up and get a different lift. Until then, it does the job.
Thanks again...I'm going with DT!
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