I thought the same thing and I looked at the feature list for the tazer and it looks like headlights are the only one they don’t give you that option for? I tested the support number to ask about this problem specifically so maybe I’ll hear back from them.
I really don’t know much about this stuff but could you run the diode and one of those resistors that you use normally to kill the flicker to simulate higher voltage?Mopar LED harness
Black wire - Ground
Red wire - Low beams
Blue wire - High beams
Red wire (coiled, not used) - Halos
Parts:
2x Molex Connectors (33482-3601) - To factory harness
3x Molex M Pins (33000-0001 MX150 M 14-16AWG R) - Pins for factory harness
2x Molex Connectors (33472-601) - To Mopar LED headlights
4x Molex F Pins (33012-2001 MX150 F 14-16AWG R) - Pins for LED headlight
10x Molex Plugs (34345-0001) - Blanks to cover unused pins
2x Vishal Schottkey Diodes (V30100CI-M3/P) - To allow low beams to fire with high beams, but not vice-versa
The diode allows inputs from either the high or low beam (harness side) to power the low beams (headlight side). It also prevents current from flowing to the high beams when only the low beams are selected.
This setup works perfectly outside the vehicle with a normal 12v battery, however there are issues caused, presumably by the body control module (BCM) when in the vehicle where power is cut to the high beam signal, which kills both the high and low beam. Since this issue is intermittent and occurs at the same time for both sides, and both sides are on seperate circuits, I assume the BCM doesn’t like the low power draw when high beams are on. It is expecting 60 watts, but the real power draw with LEDs is around 40 watts with both the high and lows beams on.
If anyone has ideas on ways to fool the BCM into thinking the Jeep is equipped with the LED lighting package, I would appreciate any input.
Okay, think I have it licked. Ended up adding two filters, sometimes called "anti-flicker" devices to the harnesses and it has fixed the high beams cutting out. There are lots available and would assume any one of them would work, I used these off Amazon.
My 'ah-ha' moment was when I noticed that the Rubicon LED fog lights would flicker when off throttle. Most modern cars are 'micro hybrids' that have smart systems that only charge the battery when off-throttle to increase fuel economy. Voltage shoots up, from 12.7 to 14+ volts, noise is added to the system from the alternator and the in-rush current to the lights causes the LED drivers to cut out, sensing too much current is going to the LEDs.
The same would happen with the high beams, but instead of a quick flicker, they cut out for a few seconds, but it is the same issue.
My guess is that when you purchase a Jeep with the LED lights, the body control module is programmed to add in filtering for the light output lines, keeping them at a more constant 12v.
Side note: A buddy of mine let me know what the diode needs to be insulated as the metal heatsink is connected to the output: 12v going to the lights, oops.
Thanks for all the input, if people are interested I will update my diagram to show the filter added.
Correction: 33472-0601. Updated the post with the correct part no. and will update the diagram.
I had similar problems before the harness, one light would stay on, the other would turn on/off. Just took my first long trip with harness and LEDs installed, so far so good!
Great write up! I've got a Halogen Sahara and have had a couple opportunities to purchase the LED takeoffs but haven't pulled the trigger because I couldn't find any information on how to resolve the wiring issues. After this...I'm back in the hunt. Your diagram and directions are awesome and exactly what I was looking for. Hope you break the code on the Halo. Thanks!
If you don’t have flicker/lights randomly turning off, then you can ignore the anti flicker part of the harness.
I can’t say for other models, but my sport does not have a DRL option as far as I can tell (in the menus). So for now, I don’t have halos hooked up to anything, however, I am thinking about powering them off the AUX switches that came with my tow package.
