Mopar LED Take-Offs- Highbeam and Halo Issue

Tylerjcloud92

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@hive85 that harness looks great. Maybe with Tazer setting headlights to LED will solve your issues.

Does the halo work as well?
I thought the same thing and I looked at the feature list for the tazer and it looks like headlights are the only one they don’t give you that option for? I tested the support number to ask about this problem specifically so maybe I’ll hear back from them.
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Tylerjcloud92

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Mopar LED harness

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Black wire - Ground
Red wire - Low beams
Blue wire - High beams
Red wire (coiled, not used) - Halos

Parts:
2x Molex Connectors (33482-3601) - To factory harness
3x Molex M Pins (33000-0001 MX150 M 14-16AWG R) - Pins for factory harness
2x Molex Connectors (33472-601) - To Mopar LED headlights
4x Molex F Pins (33012-2001 MX150 F 14-16AWG R) - Pins for LED headlight
10x Molex Plugs (34345-0001) - Blanks to cover unused pins
2x Vishal Schottkey Diodes (V30100CI-M3/P) - To allow low beams to fire with high beams, but not vice-versa

The diode allows inputs from either the high or low beam (harness side) to power the low beams (headlight side). It also prevents current from flowing to the high beams when only the low beams are selected.

This setup works perfectly outside the vehicle with a normal 12v battery, however there are issues caused, presumably by the body control module (BCM) when in the vehicle where power is cut to the high beam signal, which kills both the high and low beam. Since this issue is intermittent and occurs at the same time for both sides, and both sides are on seperate circuits, I assume the BCM doesn’t like the low power draw when high beams are on. It is expecting 60 watts, but the real power draw with LEDs is around 40 watts with both the high and lows beams on.

If anyone has ideas on ways to fool the BCM into thinking the Jeep is equipped with the LED lighting package, I would appreciate any input.

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I really don’t know much about this stuff but could you run the diode and one of those resistors that you use normally to kill the flicker to simulate higher voltage?
 

hive85

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Okay, think I have it licked. Ended up adding two filters, sometimes called "anti-flicker" devices to the harnesses and it has fixed the high beams cutting out. There are lots available and would assume any one of them would work, I used these off Amazon.

My 'ah-ha' moment was when I noticed that the Rubicon LED fog lights would flicker when off throttle. Most modern cars are 'micro hybrids' that have smart systems that only charge the battery when off-throttle to increase fuel economy. Voltage shoots up, from 12.7 to 14+ volts, noise is added to the system from the alternator and the in-rush current to the lights causes the LED drivers to cut out, sensing too much current is going to the LEDs.

The same would happen with the high beams, but instead of a quick flicker, they cut out for a few seconds, but it is the same issue.

My guess is that when you purchase a Jeep with the LED lights, the body control module is programmed to add in filtering for the light output lines, keeping them at a more constant 12v.

Side note: A buddy of mine let me know what the diode needs to be insulated as the metal heatsink is connected to the output: 12v going to the lights, oops.

Thanks for all the input, if people are interested I will update my diagram to show the filter added.

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fefe2018

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It will be nice if you can update your diagram . Where did you get order all the pins and connectors? At the dealership? If yes, Do they have them in stock?
Thanks
Okay, think I have it licked. Ended up adding two filters, sometimes called "anti-flicker" devices to the harnesses and it has fixed the high beams cutting out. There are lots available and would assume any one of them would work, I used these off Amazon.

My 'ah-ha' moment was when I noticed that the Rubicon LED fog lights would flicker when off throttle. Most modern cars are 'micro hybrids' that have smart systems that only charge the battery when off-throttle to increase fuel economy. Voltage shoots up, from 12.7 to 14+ volts, noise is added to the system from the alternator and the in-rush current to the lights causes the LED drivers to cut out, sensing too much current is going to the LEDs.

The same would happen with the high beams, but instead of a quick flicker, they cut out for a few seconds, but it is the same issue.

My guess is that when you purchase a Jeep with the LED lights, the body control module is programmed to add in filtering for the light output lines, keeping them at a more constant 12v.

Side note: A buddy of mine let me know what the diode needs to be insulated as the metal heatsink is connected to the output: 12v going to the lights, oops.

Thanks for all the input, if people are interested I will update my diagram to show the filter added.

IMG_5746.jpg
IMG_6766.jpg
IMG_4377.jpg
IMG_0333.jpg


IMG_4784.jpeg


IMG_4377.jpg
 

Grindhouseknives

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@hive85
Did you fix the flicker with your OEM LED fogs with that anti-flicker device as well. Mine flicker like you described when I let off the gas and when it’s cold. I haven’t had the time to chase it down yet.
I like your work around on the LED headlights. Now I just need to find some take-offs.
 

hive85

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You can purchase all the components from Mouser and Amazon. Total parts price is probably around $60 to build a pair of headlight harnesses, I also purchased some spares which added a little to the cost.

Molex wants over $500 for the correct crimp tool, however, I was able to "field crimp" the pins using linesman pliers. If I had to do it again, I might add some solder to make sure the connection is solid.

I haven't worked to get the Halos running (realize that is the point of this thread) but now that the headlights work as they should, that will be my next task.

Note 1: The diode body is metal and connected to pin 2 and must be insulated with electrical tape or heat shrink.

Note 2: The connectors can be assembled and taken apart multiple times if you screw up, requiring a special Molex tool ($70) or if you don't like to waste money, use a paperclip.

Note 3: Watch the direction of the Tomall filter, male pins to male pin side, female to female side.


Parts List
(Mouser)
- Molex 33482-3601 (2x Connectors)
- Molex 33472-0601 (2x Connectors)
- Molex 33000-0001 MX150 M 14-16AWG R (6x Male Pins)
- Molex 33012-2001 MX150 F 14-16AWG R (8x Female Pins)
- Vishal V30100CI-M3/P (2x Schottkey Diodes)
- Molex 34345-0001 (10x Blanks for plugs)​

(Amazon)
- Tomall B072KK8LLL (Anti Flicker)​

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Tylerjcloud92

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The Molex 33472-601 is showing no search result on mouser?
 

hive85

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Jbaile29

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hive85

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So if I been having problems even on low beam
With flicker and even one light turning off the anti flicker device you mention should fix that?
I had similar problems before the harness, one light would stay on, the other would turn on/off. Just took my first long trip with harness and LEDs installed, so far so good!
 

Mickgolf00

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I had similar problems before the harness, one light would stay on, the other would turn on/off. Just took my first long trip with harness and LEDs installed, so far so good!
Great write up! I've got a Halogen Sahara and have had a couple opportunities to purchase the LED takeoffs but haven't pulled the trigger because I couldn't find any information on how to resolve the wiring issues. After this...I'm back in the hunt. Your diagram and directions are awesome and exactly what I was looking for. Hope you break the code on the Halo. Thanks!
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Jeepsterfreak

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Out of curiosity, are the Halos only on when the headlights are on with the factory LED option? Do the Halos work as DRLs also or are DRL only in the fenders?
 

crothrock2000

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Question - so I am right to say that this is all to solve the flickering. I am not having a flickering issue but want to solve the high-beam issue dropping off the low-beam. Both should be on at the same time when in high-beam. Does anyone have a fix for this?
 

hive85

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Question - so I am right to say that this is all to solve the flickering. I am not having a flickering issue but want to solve the high-beam issue dropping off the low-beam. Both should be on at the same time when in high-beam. Does anyone have a fix for this?
If you don’t have flicker/lights randomly turning off, then you can ignore the anti flicker part of the harness.

You only need to add the diode section of the harness which allows the low beams to receive power when either the low or high beams are triggered.

Over 1k miles with this setup and no issues so far!
 

hive85

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Out of curiosity, are the Halos only on when the headlights are on with the factory LED option? Do the Halos work as DRLs also or are DRL only in the fenders?
I can’t say for other models, but my sport does not have a DRL option as far as I can tell (in the menus). So for now, I don’t have halos hooked up to anything, however, I am thinking about powering them off the AUX switches that came with my tow package.

If you wanted to have them run as DRLs (on all the time) I suppose you could wire them to any ignition hot circuit.
 
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