Mopar LCA swap

[Yowda09]

Picked up my JLURXR a few weeks ago, and had this upgrade on my list. After driving it a bit, there was some wander in the steering.

The stock LCA's were 68250242AB and I ordered the Mopar extended LCA's to replace (68322798AA).

Getting the factory bolts loosened was not a simple task. My impact wouldn't even budge them, but a 30" breaker bar and about a 1/2 turn loosened them enough the impact did the remainder of the work. Be prepared to go to battle with them!

From the factory, my measurement was 87.0° at the pumpkin. After install, it got me to 88.9-89.0°.

The steering is much better with the extended LCA's and for the $$ it was definitely worth making the swap.

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[NULL POINTER]

My Mopar LCAs arrived yesterday. I'll be working on a stock 2018 JLUR. One thing I noticed, they are made in China, so I'll need to get after scrapes right away because Chinese steel is known for rusting.

I have all the tools that I think I need to do the job, plus a new set of nuts and bolts. I have a 24" breaker bar, SAE 13/16 sockets (long, short, impact) and SAE15/16 wrenches, 24" torque wrench that goes to 250, PBLast, 15mm socket for the brake line brackets (torque to 30 ft/lbs?), an impact wrench with 1200 ft/lb breakaway torque, and just about any other hand tool I might need.

BIG QUESTION:
I will be doing this deed by myself. I am 5'9", about 175 pounds, and over 70. I do not have a large arm span. How did you guys who did this by yourselves, hold a wrench on the nuts and maneuver a torque wrench? Is there a trick to keeping the wrench in place while using the torque wrench?
ALSO, if I need to use a ratchet strap, do I want to lift up on the axle or pull forward?
TIA

 

[Johnny2018]

I think the LCAs are 21mm and 24mm no?

 

[blnewt]

I think the LCAs are 21mm and 24mm no?

Some use the metric sizes but the SAE sockets have zero slop, and when going to 190 ft lbs the SAEs are much better. I would strongly recommend not using those metrics in this case.

 

[blnewt]

My Mopar LCAs arrived yesterday. I'll be working on a stock 2018 JLUR. One thing I noticed, they are made in China, so I'll need to get after scrapes right away because Chinese steel is known for rusting.

I have all the tools that I think I need to do the job, plus a new set of nuts and bolts. I have a 24" breaker bar, SAE 13/16 sockets (long, short, impact) and SAE15/16 wrenches, 24" torque wrench that goes to 250, PBLast, 15mm socket for the brake line brackets (torque to 30 ft/lbs?), an impact wrench with 1200 ft/lb breakaway torque, and just about any other hand tool I might need.

BIG QUESTION:
I will be doing this deed by myself. I am 5'9", about 175 pounds, and over 70. I do not have a large arm span. How did you guys who did this by yourselves, hold a wrench on the nuts and maneuver a torque wrench? Is there a trick to keeping the wrench in place while using the torque wrench?
ALSO, if I need to use a ratchet strap, do I want to lift up on the axle or pull forward?
TIA

If you use those SAE sockets(not the metrics) they should fit pretty snug so the wrench should stay on pretty well when getting ready to final torque them down. Best to you ramps to keep the suspension loaded but allow for more room to get leverage on those bolts. Not sure about the straps, mine lined up just right luckily.

 

[Roky]

My Mopar LCAs arrived yesterday. I'll be working on a stock 2018 JLUR. One thing I noticed, they are made in China, so I'll need to get after scrapes right away because Chinese steel is known for rusting.

I have all the tools that I think I need to do the job, plus a new set of nuts and bolts. I have a 24" breaker bar, SAE 13/16 sockets (long, short, impact) and SAE15/16 wrenches, 24" torque wrench that goes to 250, PBLast, 15mm socket for the brake line brackets (torque to 30 ft/lbs?), an impact wrench with 1200 ft/lb breakaway torque, and just about any other hand tool I might need.

BIG QUESTION:
I will be doing this deed by myself. I am 5'9", about 175 pounds, and over 70. I do not have a large arm span. How did you guys who did this by yourselves, hold a wrench on the nuts and maneuver a torque wrench? Is there a trick to keeping the wrench in place while using the torque wrench?
ALSO, if I need to use a ratchet strap, do I want to lift up on the axle or pull forward?
TIA

What Brad said…. And I also use a regular ratchet to tighten the nut and let the wrench spin up till it hits the frame or something that stops it that pressure will hold it there then switch to torque wrench and put your big boy pants on….lol…. Careful getting wrench off the bolt, may have to use pry bar, but don’t let it hit you….lol.

 

[blnewt]

What Brad said…. And I also use a regular ratchet to tighten the nut and let the wrench spin up till it hits the frame or something that stops it that pressure will hold it there then switch to torque wrench and put your big boy pants on….lol…. Careful getting wrench off the bolt, may have to use pry bar, but don’t let it hit you….lol.

 

[Johnny2018]

So 13/16 sae impact socket?

 

[RAO]

My suggestions:

to stop the bolt from turning, I propped up the wrench on a box. You can then easily pull the box out to get the wrench off.

my jack handle is open at the end, and I used it to extend the handle on the breaker bar to break the nuts loose.

remember to smoothly apply force to the torque wrench when tightening to get accurate torque settings. For me, pushing up worked better than pulling down both when loosening and tightening.

Good Luck!

 

[Steph1]

My Mopar LCAs arrived yesterday. I'll be working on a stock 2018 JLUR. One thing I noticed, they are made in China, so I'll need to get after scrapes right away because Chinese steel is known for rusting.

I have all the tools that I think I need to do the job, plus a new set of nuts and bolts. I have a 24" breaker bar, SAE 13/16 sockets (long, short, impact) and SAE15/16 wrenches, 24" torque wrench that goes to 250, PBLast, 15mm socket for the brake line brackets (torque to 30 ft/lbs?), an impact wrench with 1200 ft/lb breakaway torque, and just about any other hand tool I might need.

BIG QUESTION:
I will be doing this deed by myself. I am 5'9", about 175 pounds, and over 70. I do not have a large arm span. How did you guys who did this by yourselves, hold a wrench on the nuts and maneuver a torque wrench? Is there a trick to keeping the wrench in place while using the torque wrench?
ALSO, if I need to use a ratchet strap, do I want to lift up on the axle or pull forward?
TIA

And do one arm at a time, removing both at once will get you swearing to line up the holes. Never happened to me but if you're by yourself and all, might as well know that.

 

[Mabar]

I have all the tools that I think I need to do the job, plus a new set of nuts and bolts. I have a 24" breaker bar...

I used a 24" ratcheting breaker bar (available from Home Depot for about $39), AND I bought a 3 foot long 3/4" black pipe to slip over the breaker for extra leverage. I DID need that extra leverage!

I will be doing this deed by myself. I am 5'9", about 175 pounds, and over 70. I do not have a large arm span. How did you guys who did this by yourselves, hold a wrench on the nuts and maneuver a torque wrench?...

For whatever reason, the nuts did not move, both while loosening the bolts, and then tightening the bolts.

Is there a trick to keeping the wrench in place while using the torque wrench?

I just attached the box end wrench to the nut, and used the breaker bar on the bolt. The wrench just hung there on the nut and did not move.

ALSO, if I need to use a ratchet strap, do I want to lift up on the axle or pull forward?

Again, for whatever reason, I was able to work the rear bolt in without a ratchet strap. I installed the front bolt and nut loosely, then worked the rear bolt in. I did only one control arm, then after that one was installed, I worked on the other. If I had removed both control arms, I am sure I would have needed a ratchet strap.

Be sure to to this job with the full vehicle weight on the axles, either with the Jeep on ramps, or on the ground (not enough clearance for the breaker bar), or on front axle stands with the front wheels removed (best way for me).

Also, you do not need new nuts and bolts. Re-using the old ones is fine.

 

[NULL POINTER]

What Brad said…. And I also use a regular ratchet to tighten the nut and let the wrench spin up till it hits the frame or something that stops it that pressure will hold it there then switch to torque wrench and put your big boy pants on….lol…. Careful getting wrench off the bolt, may have to use pry bar, but don’t let it hit you….lol.

The bolts are marinating in PB Blaster now. Big boy pants are ready, and steel jock strap, too A variety of tools are laid out ready to go to work. It's gonna be interesting. Hope the weather cools down a bit. Thanks for all the answers.

 

[Roky]

The bolts are marinating in PB Blaster now. Big boy pants are ready, and steel jock strap, too A variety of tools are laid out ready to go to work. It's gonna be interesting. Hope the weather cools down a bit. Thanks for all the answers.

Sure man, anytime……. Sounds like you’re ready……holler if you need anything……..

 

[blnewt]

The bolts are marinating in PB Blaster now. Big boy pants are ready, and steel jock strap, too A variety of tools are laid out ready to go to work. It's gonna be interesting. Hope the weather cools down a bit. Thanks for all the answers.

There is a few ghetto ways to remove tight bolts like putting a floor jack under the wrench and jack up the wrench to loosen, and you can always use your foot on a torque wrench as long as you can feel or hear the click when it meets the torque setting
But you didn't hear it from me
Glad you found your pants

 

[Jmos4]

Hi,

Swapped my LCA's this past Saturday, and must say my 22 JLUR is like a totally different handling vehicle, was a bit darty before now hardly any steering corrections needed, probably the best mod I have fone so far, thanks for the suggestion and sharing this mod is definitely worth the effort

Regards,
Jim

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